I've tried several methods of attaching plasma rope to the winch spindle... (this is on a law down style, not 8274) None have worked very well. What all is everybody else using? Did you make it yourself? Or did the supplier attach the end?
Pics if ya can supply them would be great.

I'm thinking I might try forming a loop at the winch end around the spindle. It will make for a slightly uneven wrap, but at least the rope would stay on the spindle.

And no... I'm not trying to winch from the last 7~8 wraps, causing the ropes to come loose.

The best way to date is the single link of chain with the 1/4" fender washer welded in one end. I bought some stainless chain from McMaster Carr and just had my buddy fuse around the washer at one end leaving an eye at the other.

Grab the end with the washer in a smooth jaw vise and give the other end a little smack with a hammer for some offset to clear the rope when it is spliced into the eye opposite the washer.

I've been studying this a bit and what I originally thought was the rope slipping on the drum, turns out to be something different most of the time. I watched a few hard pulls with the rope stacking up on the eye side and it mashed the rope hard enough to pull it out of the crimped fitting. Nothing else moved.

At the CRCA event the same thing happened to Team Purple's winch line.

MasterPull is doing their eyes the same way, I just didn't like the MIG welding on zinc plated washers and chain links. The S/S is much cleaner looking.

Originally posted by mrblaine
The best way to date is the single link of chain with the 1/4" fender washer welded in one end. I bought some stainless chain from McMaster Carr and just had my buddy fuse around the washer at one end leaving an eye at the other.

Grab the end with the washer in a smooth jaw vise and give the other end a little smack with a hammer for some offset to clear the rope when it is spliced into the eye opposite the washer.

I've been studying this a bit and what I originally thought was the rope slipping on the drum, turns out to be something different most of the time. I watched a few hard pulls with the rope stacking up on the eye side and it mashed the rope hard enough to pull it out of the crimped fitting. Nothing else moved.

At the CRCA event the same thing happened to Team Purple's winch line.

MasterPull is doing their eyes the same way, I just didn't like the MIG welding on zinc plated washers and chain links. The S/S is much cleaner looking.

You got a picture of that setup?

I don't have a pic of it, but I saw a pic of the MIG welded one on here awhile back.

Found it, I'll post it in case anyone else is curious.

Thanks for the pic..

Anyone else have another way?

If your winch is still in good shape, you can swedge a welding cable lug onto the end of the line, then bolt that down to the standard bolt hole on the winch.

If it doesn't have an eyelet or anything on it, you can do what I did after I stripped the threads outta the side of my Warn winch drum:
Take a foot and a half of duct tape.
Wrap 6-10" of it around the end of the rope.
Stick the remaining foot or so to the winch drum.
Wind the line overtop of it.

Pulling the bolt out of the side of the drum, thereby stripping it out, is why I'd recommend against building some superduper quadruple-strong tail end attachment--a new crimp lug is only a dollar or so, a new winch drum after the superstrong one rips the bolt outta yours, isn't so cheap (or easy to replace).

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


a new winch drum after the superstrong one rips the bolt outta yours, isn't so cheap (or easy to replace).

Not that I question your creativity with duct tape, but if the drum was drilled and tapped the first time around, could you not move the hole over about 10, 20, 90, or some amount of degrees and re-drill and tap a new hole?

That seems a whole bunch cheaper than replacing the drum over a stripped out hole. As long as the distance away from center was maintained, I don't see a problem.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
If your winch is still in good shape, you can swedge a welding cable lug onto the end of the line, then bolt that down to the standard bolt hole on the winch.



I've tried that, with no luck.. The rope simply pulls out of the lug. I also tried filling the lug with 2 part epoxy, then swadge the lug in hope that the epoxy would harden and from a lock.. No luck, it pulled out also.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

Pulling the bolt out of the side of the drum, thereby stripping it out, is why I'd recommend against building some superduper quadruple-strong tail end attachment--a new crimp lug is only a dollar or so, a new winch drum after the superstrong one rips the bolt outta yours, isn't so cheap (or easy to replace).

No offense intended,, but redrilling and taping the hole is sweatless, and R&R'ing the spindle is a 15 minute job. (after the winch is off the vehicle) That said,, I understand your point.. and worse than pulling out the threads, I would think it would warp the spindle flange as it pulled out,,, and that would suck.

I just put a new spindle and brake assy in my HS9500I last night.. Warn replaced it, no charge. Warn customer service rocks...