Looking at adding a mid motor mount. Normally a plate is bolted in between the transmission and the motor and that is connected to the frame.

I saw were Jeff made some struts to hold the motor, but those won't work as I moved my motor back 2.5" so the head is very close to the fire wall. In fact I push the fire wall back an inch to allow me to get the valve cover off.

So question is can one just use the bottom tranny bolt to make a mount or maybe come off the casting on the block, a bit tight on the starter side.

Any ideas would be great as I need to get this done this weekend. I used paintshop to kind of give an idea, but not drawn very well

It this instead of, or in addition to, the existing mounts?

I would go with pic #3 with a G8 bolt all the way thru. Looks the easiest, and sturdiest mount on the engine/tranny of the options. I assume this is in addition to sturdy up the drivetrain?

Edit: the third total picture, second with your drawings

I'm running the RPT mounts, so the front half is covered, but I just broke my tranny mount, as the ass end of this pig need to held still.

Since bolt's only have like 1.25 of thread, I could get some all thread and add a nut's to each side. Fastenal would have this in stock. Would be nice to have an allen head in the end so I could turn it. But a tack welded nut on one side would do it too.

Edit guess they make a "tap bolt" but can't get the Fastenal site to work. Would need to be like 4" long

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=536572&stc=1&d=1279726496

I dont see how welding a weiner onto your frame is going to help

I dont see how welding a weiner onto your frame is going to help

LOL I said it was shitty paintshop. :homer:


After looking at it some more, the design would only hold it from moving side to side. It would not take any of the weight of the tranny mount.

But if I move the bushing up ( balls Reuban) it would take some of the weight off the tranny mount.

Hey Reuben, you know how I know you're :rainbow:gay? :flipoff2:

As side from welding a weiner to the frame as Reuben so elloquently put it, it needs more triagulation :flipoff2: I'd think it would need more than the single mounting point, otherwise it's just going to pivot back and forth and work the bolt loose. If you can't get another point to bolt through, a couple of tabs the mate up with the cast boss on the engine would help keep it oriented correctly.

Try some square headed set screws you can get them in GR B7 up to 6" long. 1/4"-20 through 1"-8 coarse thread.
That's what I used when I had a similar problem.
536622

now if my thinking is correct, you would only need to do this on one side. You have a stak case correct? how is that mounted? is there a place for a side brace off of it like a 20 or 205? I would think that if you are braking tranny mounts I would work on the tranny mount to beef it up.

now if my thinking is correct, you would only need to do this on one side. You have a stak case correct? how is that mounted? is there a place for a side brace off of it like a 20 or 205? I would think that if you are braking tranny mounts I would work on the tranny mount to beef it up.

I'm going to have to agree with weiner-boy :flipoff2:. Post up pics of your current trans mount setup.

I assume one bolt came loose and then other one sheared off.:confused:

One sheared off inside transmission housing and the other bolt was missing.

Old pic about the brake setup, but you can see the block I had to add, the Jeep tail housing has a much shorter foot then an IH tail housing.

Yes I can add a mount off the back of the T-case. Is there one on there? No:shaking: Been meaning to add it, but wanted also hold the engine still too. Even with the D20 I wore out an RPT tranny mount and mike sent be a new UHMW piece. I suspect the off road use causes the motor to move around a bit. I've had issues with those bolts coming loose and check them every time I get back. Well guess what I did not check them this last time and figured its time to make that engine sit still.

I know what you mean about having a 3rd point to prevent it from just pivoting on the bushing.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=448492&stc=1&d=1244955124

OK, I found this pic in your t-case build thread. What I think you should do is use some pantleg washers on your mount bolts. That would stop them from backing out. I just cant see the need for a midengine mount with all the other mounts you allready have. Have you double checked your frame for cracks causing excessive twist? If you use the washers to stop the bolts from backing out you should be fine.

like these http://www.hesseco.com/pantleg.html

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=536661&stc=1&d=1279748175

also I would use some all metal lock nuts instead of lock washers

Craig, Can you make any mods to the fire wall? It just looks like the mount you drew up would be too short to stop any torque on the moment.

I have not seen any frame cracks, but have not fully check it out. Theres a full skid plate made from 3/16 plate bolted from frame rail to frame rail.
The pic from the stak install does not show the spacer I added once I notice the tail housing difference.
The nuts you see in the pic, are because I double nutted them. I'm the double nutted, lock nut, lock tight guy.:shaking: and they are the metal ones. I will check out those washers. Thanks.

Dan as for the fire wall it's only sheet metal, so thats not an major issue. But there is a lot of crap in the way. If I cut an access port and then screw a cover over the port that might work, if I could seal out the fumes and what not. It's right on the body seem too:eek: Plus I have to be extra careful not to cut wires and fuel lines. I can get a metal plate up on the head, but would need access to install some bolts. The motor is into the center cavity a bit so I can't come straight down to the frame either. The plate would have to have a bend, or I would have to cut the passenger foot well away to have a straight shot.
Here you can see just how close it is to the fire wall.

now if my thinking is correct, you would only need to do this on one side. You have a stak case correct? how is that mounted? is there a place for a side brace off of it like a 20 or 205? I would think that if you are braking tranny mounts I would work on the tranny mount to beef it up.

I wondering if that would work. I can add plate to the back of the head on the drivers side, like Jeff did. Then use the T/C mount on the passenger side.

Instead of two bushing as room it tight, just one at the frame. I have poly leaf spring bushings and DOM for making a motor mount.

Getting a plate on the back to the passenger head is going to tough as there is only about 3/4" I could use a 3/4" hole saw and pop a few holes in the fire wall. If lucky drill them in the right spot so I can get a bolt and socket in there. Then seal them up with electrical knock out plugs.

Pic's from Jeff's site.

Ok with the motor back 2.5" its a BITCH getting these bolted up.

Got them made and installed.

I did not want to cut the gas pedal side, so I worked at getting some bolts in there. Pass side, cut to make room so bolt install not near as hard.

fixed tranny mount (i.e left on trail some where) The green tube is sleeved.

I love my TIG welder, nice clean welds

For what its worth on my SSII I have had issues with the motor mount bolts backing loose also, I drilled grade 8s and safety wired them so they can't back out.

Still not sure I like the idea of mounting the engine by the heads. Seems like it would be putting a lot more stress on the head bolts.

Still not sure I like the idea of mounting the engine by the heads. Seems like it would be putting a lot more stress on the head bolts.

That's what I thought when I first saw the idea about a year ago. But its not going to hold up the entire transmission and transfer case. But will keep it from going side to side.

The plan is to hold up the trans a bit just so I can spin the poly tranny mounts by hand. Then weld the rear motor mounts to the frame, hopefully this will be the correct weight on each set of mounts. Then lower down and add the T/C mount.

I also thought about welding some tubing adapters inside the tube and using a bolt so I could have some adjustment. But not sure if I need to go this far. Ballistic fab (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/12quot-20-tpi-Tube-Adapter_p_1400.html)has some really small ones. This would fit real nice inside my 1" tubing and there like $7.99


Edit... Yes saftey wire those in place:smokin:

Still not sure I like the idea of mounting the engine by the heads. Seems like it would be putting a lot more stress on the head bolts.

Taking your advise here. I put the weight of the tranny on it's mount and then welded the rear engine mounts to the frame. I figured this way there would not be much extra stress on the head bolts. This should hold the motor still as I think side to side play caused the bolts to come loose in the first place.

I drilled the bolts heads and wired them together too. I also added the t/c mount and just need to weld up the hole in the floor and I done!
Never made to fasental for pantleg washers.

I have been contemplating doing this exact same thing on my shit box.

The Caddy motor puts an extremee amount of pressure on the front engine mounts (stock Cadillac) and just plain moves around too much. As a result the typical tranny mount similar to your configuration gets twisted like a pony tail on a porn star and everything starts to loosen up.

I am leary, but interested in adding a torque arm on side in the future...

Looking forward to your results.