The wife bought me a '81 Cherokee for my anniversary:smokin:

So the build begins...

I bought a CUCV for the axles and odds and ends. You know: M-16 mounts:grinpimp:, brakes, TC, steering box, suspension mounts, springs, hydroboost brakes, TC floor shifter, power distribution center etc.

the strip[ping has been a bit painful in the July heat here in Dallas but. It's all but done now.

more pics..
what's left of the parts truck.

An dennnnnn????

Wheres the front end??

I'm hauling off what's left of the parts truck this weekend. Then the jeep comes back to the house.

I pulled the d60 and 14bff w/Detroit and 4.56's. They're in the garage. Along with the other bits I pulled off the chevy.
The cab was listed here on pirate. It sold herrlocally for the full $250 asking price. I must have sold it too cheap. Oh well. It's out of my way now.

Spelling errors compliments of iPhone.

Nice man, this looks like it's going to be a sick project. I like the old cherokees more than wagoneers, the 2 door was the shit :D.

If you end up partin out that front D44 from the jeep...if thats a wide track let me know what's goin on with the axle shafts :grinpimp:

Nice man, this looks like it's going to be a sick project. I like the old cherokees more than wagoneers, the 2 door was the shit :D.

If you end up partin out that front D44 from the jeep...if thats a wide track let me know what's goin on with the axle shafts :grinpimp:


I'll be selling both axles. It's a wide track with a D44 and AMC30. Don't know about the ratios yet.

So the cab is gone. I'm in OK today hangin' out with the rug rats. I'll take a trailer back with me and load up the frame and engine. Dad's going to turn the 6.2 and TH400 into a farm implement. Exactly what farm implement is yet to be determined.

I found a 700R4 with transfer case for $175 out of a Z71 Chevy. I'm torn between buying an adapter for the 360 or sinking a little more into another engine.

The 360 is free and seems to run well but has unknown miles on it. It made the trip home and a few short jaunts on the local surface streets.

A 4bt would be Ideal but a 350 or a vortec/LSX would be acceptable as well.

I've got a line on a 4bt from a 'tater wagon but I don't have a price yet.

What do you guys think?

Before I get started I need to thank my buddy Dale. I couldn't have done it without him. The spare hands were priceless.

Brought the jeep back to the house yesterday. Transplanted the D60 this morning.

It was a bolt in affair. I disconnected shocks and brakes. removed the ubolts and front shackle bolts. About that time Dale showed up (0800). We then removed the front bumper and brush guard. They're not going back on!. With the D44 disconnect and out of the way, we cleaned the springs up (30 years of dirt and grime).

We then measured everything and decided to reuse the stock springs over the 5/4 ton chevy springs. The spring perches were within 1/4" on center and the D-60's locating holes were oblong. It bolted right up. We unbolted the brake line brackets and retrofitted the chevy lines to them. The stock hard lines matched right up.

I still need shocks and I still need the high steer arms to connect to the steering box.

more pics

Your wife has great taste in vehicles.. (probably not so much in men.. :flipoff2: )

My GF got me (as in paid for) a rusty pile og a K5 for my 35th birthday. I had lots of fun with that old beater and she hated it every single day i had it :D


More FSJ-pics please, and obviously wife-pics aswell :smokin:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii39/echo4charlie/trucks.jpg

Sweet!:smokin:

In the 105* Dallas Heat the only thing I could get done today was cleaning the garage up and getting the beast up on jack stands prepping it for the rear axle. I broke out the tape measure before I chickened out in the heat.

It felt like winter yesterday, it was only 103*:mad3:

i know how ya feel except i just did the rear in my cherokee and it was 122 out, 113 in the shade, you have more humidity tho, i drag 2 box fans arround and keep them pointed at me point blank.

I may have to get a swamp cooler. HF sells one I think.

I found a NP241C from a GMC jimmy that needed a tail shaft for $100. All Terrain Fabrication in Plano is installing a slip yoke eliminator kit (comes with a tail shaft).

The guy who sold me the TC has a son with a YJ that's buying the axles. He offered $400 for them. I was asking $500 but he's going to pull the rear axle and GET THEM OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY TOMORROW!

This should thrill the spousal unit.

So to date:
1150 for jeep
1400 for M0118 CUCV
-300 sold parts off CUCV
-400 sold axles off jeep
100 for TC
~600 for SYE kit and installation.
---------
$2750 so far

Some more motivation for ya

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs402.snc3/24409_384287186924_750351924_4052592_8184862_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs486.snc3/26614_1265157353545_1368106818_30635740_29681_n.jp g

So the guy that bought my axles showed up last night to pull and pick them up. We did a bit of horse trading. I got a working and complete Warn 8274 in trade for the old axles:smokin:.

It upped the total expenditure a bit but I think it was well worth it.

So to date:
1150 for jeep
1400 for M0118 CUCV
-300 sold parts off CUCV
Traded axles off jeep for Warn 8274
100 for TC
175 for TH700R4 + TC
~600 for SYE kit and installation.
---------
$3125 so far

I had a line on a $500 crate 350 out of a Z71 and the Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley#@t sold it out from under me without even calling first.

So I hunted around and found this 5.3 for $750 complete less the headers...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=529788&stc=1&d=1276794989

I threw on the winch bumper last night just so I could get it off the driveway. I'll finish bolting it in place this evening. I also want to clean up the winch and paint it. I think I'll install and function check it first.

I did some measuring for the rear springs. The jeep has 2.5" springs that are 55" long, the pins are 26" from the front and 30.5" from the rear and 43 5/8" apart. the CUCV had 3" springs that are 54" long, the pins are 26" from the front and 29.5" from the rear and 43 5/8" apart. The jeep pack is 1.5" thick and the CUCV pack is 3.5" thick.

By the time I inboard the springs and fpli the shackles I'll have ~6.5" of lift not including the difference in axle diameter, larger sping arch and pack thickness. I'll reduce that to ~ 2" by removing springs.

I think I'm going to cut the rear jeep mainspring to the length of the front pack and add it to the front pack to reduce sag and stiffen them up.

Fock yeah lovin that FS

Thanks! I'm diggin' it in the driveway. I can't wait to get it wheelin':grinpimp:

I'm contemplating paint. I think an army green metallic and satin black trim with blacked out chrome would kick ass. Sort of urban assault vehicle look:tank:

So far I'm planning on H1 wheels and tires (37"), High steer from partsmike.com with the rear steer tie rod.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1548_large_image.jpg

Do your self a favor and box the frame where it goes /\.

That's already part of the plan:D

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii39/echo4charlie/trucks.jpg

what size tires does that front cherokee have :eek:

I will be watching this build. I traded a guy for a 79 Wagoneer on a 4" lift with 33's for my dirtbike. Drove it anywhere its fat ass would fit. Had to sell when we moved back from Canada but got the FSJ bug bad and miss it a lot.

Good work so far, keep it up.

And keep those FSJ pics coming too, them some good lookin rigs.

I am partial to the 4-doors myself:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg150/rustywagoneers_com/black/NearFinal13.jpg

But I like what you've got going on!

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii39/echo4charlie/trucks.jpg

any more pics of that camo cherokee i wanna see more of the comp cut pm me if you got em

Cool build.

Suscribing for future inspiration.

I got the gas tank out Saturday morning and started pulling the tranny and t-case. Finished pulling it Sunday so the guy I sold it to could pick it up :bounce2:. I got $300 for it :D

I pulled most of the front clip. All that's left are the inner fenders and the hood.

Lifting the winch bumper off alone was a bear.

I'll get some pics tonight.

Dammit i almost bought a cheap old FSJ just because of this thread :D

Fortunately i remembered how my garage was too damn narrow for my K5 before i got too excited.
Keep the pics coming :grinpimp:

what size tires does that front cherokee have :eek:

42's and the front clip has been chopped to clear the lights. This was the first revision of the front end. The front end now looks like this.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii39/echo4charlie/FrontEnd.jpg

nothing glamorous.. hoping to be rid of the 360 soon. Got everything out of the way.

I got the rear axle in and it back on it's own feet. It's sitting about 1" off the ground on stands because it has no brakes.

The springs are inboard about 3.5" total and shackle flipped with the rear hanger next to the frame.

The chevy springs give about 2-3" more lift that the stock springs. I'm planning on beefing up the front sping packs by adding 2 of the rear stock leaves. I'll also remove 2-4 of the rear (chevy 5/4 ton) springs.

Right now it's sitting real high but by the time I adjust the packs and add the 37's I epect it to end up near this total height.

more pics..

Went on vacation. When I got back there was a pile of parts waiting.

The biggest part was the hummer offset 2" steering arms. they are designed to put the tie rod behind the axle.

My 5.3L showed up last night. I hot wired the rear glass and set it in the cargo area.

I didn't get pics but the ass end didn't squat at all. I'm definitely going to have to pull a few leaves out of the rear packs.

I went to the 4wheel parts yard sale Saturday 9/25. Picked up a Warn 12000# industrial winch for $500 that had been dropped in shipping. The solenoid cover was busted, the remote had a cut in the cable, and it needs winch cable. $7 worth of self sealing connectors and shrink wrap fixed the remote. $60-$110 will replace the cable. So the net will be a $1500 winch for ~$600.

Bought 4 JK remote reservoir shocks and a set of FSJ 4" rear springs for $250 ($1048 worth at normal prices). I sold the springs for $125 so the shocks Cost $145 after taxes. Retail was $169 apiece:smokin:

I also purchased my wheels and tires this weekend off of craigslist. Bought 2 - 2" spacers, 2-3" spacers, 5 37" goodyears and 4 wheels with run-flats, all for $400. :grinpimp:

I have had my eyes on this for a while. Good to see some progress.

The wife's, oh I mean, 'our' master bath remodel is interfering with progress:homer:

The big question right now is TRE's or Heims for the drag link and tie rod.

I ordered the flex plate to attach the 700R4 to the 5.3...

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146385-pac-1399-old-style-a-t-transmissions-flexplate-package.html

http://paceperformance.com/images/M15196120.gif



We put this LS flexplate kit together with GM OE parts. This kit works with all 6 bolt crank LS engines. Kit will not fit LSA & LSX with 8-bolt crand or LS9 with 9 bolt crank.

This kit allows you to bolt TH350, TH400, 700R4 & 4L60 thru 4L85E transmissions to LS engines.

Kit includes:


* 14" Flexplate works with large 3-bolt and all 6-bolt pattern torque converters

* Flexplate crankshaft spacer

* Flexplate to crankshaft mounting (6)bolts

Made a bit of progress over the last 2 days.
Friday I installed the high steer arms and ghetto fabbed up a drag link for moving the jeep around in the driveway. I also tcked on a tow bar to get it to the car wash.

Dale and I started the day by fetching the cherry picker. Then we hooked the cherokee up to the jeep and towed it to the carwash. $10 later the grunge and grime was mostly gone. We cleaned off the fire wall and painted the area behind the motor.

It turns out that there are two sets of holes for the transmission cross member. With the cross member bolted to the rear set of holes the motor mounts on the 5.3 line up with the stock mounts. I cut the stock mounts off the frame then installed the engine and transmission. I still need to create the motor mounts but it's in place and at the height it needs to be.

more pics....

Well, I finished the motor mounts...

More Pics...

Cool, nice to see a FSJ build. My dads got a 77 J truck. Love it to death. Subscribing.

Cool build. My first Jeep was a 1981 SJ 2 door Cherokee named Big Blue!! Kinda looked like yours to be honest. Good luck, I've always liked the FSJs but they're huge in the woods!! Been wheeling XJs and MJs ever since.

Thanks!

it's primary purpose is a UAV :tank:

it's intended as a go anywhere vehicle that will be able to tow the LJ to spots I need to make a smaller footprint.

I intend to wheel it but I also intend to drive it daily.:dustin:

Grabbed the TRE's last wee and picked up a few parts this weekend. Grille, plates, lights, buckets, seat belts, NWMF AMC-3 fuel tank (32 gal steel behind the axle).

I made a road trip last night to pick up wheels, tires and spacers. 360 mi after work last night :rolleyes: Made for a long day.

Sweet!

:smokin:

Found a problem. the behind the axle tie rod goes right through the spot occupied by the oil pan. Any one got any ideas?

On a lighter note Dale an I bolted on the new shoes:grinpimp:

It turned into a block party. Dale was here and Steve, the guy working on our bathroom, stopped by. Dales and I met while he was building his CJ7. Michaela showed up (she has a thoroughly wheeled TJ on 35's). The neighbors across the street, Jami and David, showed up because they found a dog that Steve wants to adopt. Then Steve#2 shows up, Michaela's husband, followed by Dale's better half, Noel. Last to join Was my wife, Traci.

Every body loves 4x4's, dogs, and curiosity over the master bathroom resulted in numerous tours and copious amounts of beer being consumed. A kegerator is a party every day of the year:flipoff2:

I'll shoot out a few ideas, some better than others. lol
1. Dry sump it! Every one loves a dry-sump set-up, then its race ready!!
2. Or you find a front sump oil pan, either factory from another model, or aftermarket, but then you might run into oil pan issues on suspension up-travel.
3. Not sure if it'll work, run the tie rod under the knuckles? Might run into spring clearance.
Theres my half assed ideas off the top of my head. Kick them around for a while and see what comes out.

Edit, just looked at it again. Not sure what your gonna do about steering, full hyd, hyd assit, or box / drag link, but are those arms mounting holes symetrical? Looks like you might be able to turn them around for forward facing arms. Unless there was a reason you wanted behind the axle tie-rod.

Put the tie rod in front of the axle, isn't that the simplest solution?

Put the tie rod in front of the axle, isn't that the simplest solution?

yes.

I did mine like this

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/justinroose/IMG_0945.jpg

the reason I want the tie rod behind the axle is to prevent damage. the stock one is bent.

I found a couple of options.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k183/philntx/Misc/dim_oil_pan_ls1_camaro-910x882.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k183/philntx/Misc/dim_oil_pan_gto-869x946.jpg

If your doing this strictly to prevent damage, I think it's way unecessary. Yeah the stock one's bent...but your going to have a .250 wall larger OD tie rod like 4" above the stock location. Granted my high steer is on my D44, but I don't think I've put a single scratch on my tie rod in 3+ years of pretty damn hard use

If your doing this strictly to prevent damage, I think it's way unecessary. Yeah the stock one's bent...but your going to have a .250 wall larger OD tie rod like 4" above the stock location. Granted my high steer is on my D44, but I don't think I've put a single scratch on my tie rod in 3+ years of pretty damn hard use

X2

Especially with leaf springs..... In most cases the springs will take the hit before the tie rod. I used to bend tie rods all the time on mine until I put it above the springs then never had a problem...

Your tie rod will be fine in front.

what they said. With that new setup, and the tie rod protected by the leafs, it will be way out of the way.

With that said. You never specified how you were actuating the steering. From the pics, its gonna be a nightmare unless you go full hydro. Then its not a street rig anymore (some people will beg to differ).

I dont see any room for a drag link steering box set-up at ALL with the tie rod in rear. So what are your plans? Drag link, hyd assist? Full hydro?

Yeah, but I bet he paid a ton for those fancy arms:grinpimp:

Yeah, but I bet he paid a ton for those fancy arms:grinpimp:

That is probably true, but I bet that oil pan isn't the cheapest thing either.

You could always just get different arms then sell those ones...

The drag link is above the springs to the front. the passenger arm is a 'helicopter'.

the steering will be hydro assist with the cylinder behind the axle as well.

aluminum oil pan will break on the trail. steel pan will just bend ! my .02

Yeah, but I bet he paid a ton for those fancy arms:grinpimp:

yep:smokin:

Kevko makes a nice and reasonable pan in a front sump. The pan is 5" deep with an 11" sump. price is $345 with the pickup and a week of lead time.

http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

This is a picture of the rear sump...
http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/LS_F_body_full.gif

I found this on Xtreme 4x4 this weekend.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641600/


http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/fuel/img/641600_lg.jpg

My opinion is flip the arms and put the tie rod in front over the springs you won't bend it there, hydro assist cylinder on the rearward facing arm behind the axle.

Your axle will hit the sump on uptravel with a front sump oil pan.

or push the axle forward if you really want to run that behind the axle tierod.

Tie rod placement.... so complicated these days :/

My opinion is flip the arms and put the tie rod in front over the springs you won't bend it there, hydro assist cylinder on the rearward facing arm behind the axle.

Your axle will hit the sump on uptravel with a front sump oil pan.

or push the axle forward if you really want to run that behind the axle tierod.

But then the ram will hit the pan:D TR behind the axle is:smokin: Get creative and make it work, you can do it!

After the SOA I haven't added anything to the bump stops and I only have ~5.5" until I hit the stops. I've added ~7" of lift So, I'm planning on taking the stock rear spring packs and 'freshening' up the front pack by adding a leaf or two. Then I'm going to add a couple of inches to the bump stops.

If I use the steel front sump steel pan I can reshape it around any axle protrusions but it's still tight and I'd have to spend $350 + shipping on a pan I'm planning to cut up.

Or I could turn the arms around and the helicopter would be on the back passenger side. I could make the hydro assist without hitting the pan or even use the tie rod and a clamp and put it topside up front.:confused:

Put the tie rod in front of the axle, isn't that the simplest solution?

yes it is.

If your doing this strictly to prevent damage, I think it's way unecessary. Yeah the stock one's bent...but your going to have a .250 wall larger OD tie rod like 4" above the stock location. Granted my high steer is on my D44, but I don't think I've put a single scratch on my tie rod in 3+ years of pretty damn hard use

I run a 1 1/2" OD solid tie rod and I've bent it numerous times. However, I have mine in the stock location.

But then the ram will hit the pan:D TR behind the axle is:smokin: Get creative and make it work, you can do it!

that's too much of a PITA. if you ask me. it's some much easier to put it up front like it was designed. Put your high steer arms on and get it up above the leaf packs and it'll be fine.

To prevent the ram from bottoming out on the oil pan just adjust your bump stops. With 7" of lift you're going to have to hit one hell of a bump to come all the way down on the axle. Like I said before, just adjust your stops. You set up will flex plenty if that's your concern. I run the same set up as you.

I run a 1 1/2" OD solid tie rod and I've bent it numerous times. However, I have mine in the stock location.
.

Yeah but hte location is the key here. Its completely unprotected in stock location, with high steer my diff cover and axle tubes take all the abuse. I literally do not think I've ever hit my tie rod up there.

Yeah but hte location is the key here. Its completely unprotected in stock location, with high steer my diff cover and axle tubes take all the abuse. I literally do not think I've ever hit my tie rod up there.

no and you shouldn't. my point was that anything will bend but with proper location it's unlikely you'll see any damage. I don't see the point behind mounti9ng the tie rod on the other side of the axle. Maybe for the novelty but with oil pan clearances it's just not worth the effort and $$$.

Ahh I see, and agree!

I'm thinking swapping the arms and putting the tie rod up front is the way to go. Mainly because I'm cheap :p and it's easier.

I'm thinking swapping the arms and putting the tie rod up front is the way to go. Mainly because I'm cheap :p and it's easier.

;)

I'm thinking swapping the arms and putting the tie rod up front is the way to go. Mainly because I'm cheap :p and it's easier.

Good choice. Many other parts to upgrage first.

The tie rod and drag link on my rig are stock 84 narrow track, been to Rubicon and Moab a multiple times, you will not hit it up there.

Spend some money on front springs if you are worried about something. Big Sluice ate both front mains on this FSJ. We spent hours battery welding on them to get out...

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs278.snc4/40220_1365034810419_1368106818_30880642_3473413_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs160.ash2/41319_1365036250455_1368106818_30880658_1418008_n. jpg

Work bench was helpful.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs092.snc4/35954_1365035890446_1368106818_30880656_4732265_n. jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/justinroose/waggy%20main%20leafs/DSCF3332.jpg


We caught some crawdads at the spings too!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs243.snc4/39489_1365029090276_1368106818_30880594_5590876_n. jpg

There's nothing like a good wrench party to put things right.

Good choice. Many other parts to upgrage first.

The tie rod and drag link on my rig are stock 84 narrow track, been to Rubicon and Moab a multiple times, you will not hit it up there.

Spend some money on front springs if you are worried about something. Big Sluice ate both front mains on this FSJ. We spent hours battery welding on them to get out...

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs278.snc4/40220_1365034810419_1368106818_30880642_3473413_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs160.ash2/41319_1365036250455_1368106818_30880658_1418008_n. jpg



who's springs were you using?

Stock FSJ main and Chevy rears underneath.

Hmm crawfish on the trail? Can't quite beat that!!
Those main leafs look roached, prob a good thing they broke.

Got a new toy/tool :smokin:

It's a tube shark bender. air/hydraulic with 2" and 1.5" dies.

I made some progress over the holidays. I stripped and painted the inner fender wells and radiator support. I out the harness back on the motor and bought a Chilton guide for the donor vehicle for the wiring diagram. I also ripped our the interior to assess the floor panels... I was really surprised at how bad they were. they'll be easy to fix but they're all but gone.

here are the pics...

a bit more progress....

I cut out the stock wiring harness and extracted the oem heater/vent assembly and the AC system. In the FSJ they are separate systems. the heater core had 6" of leaves in it. The cowl had a pile of leaves in it too. I'm thinking a hot rod style modern heating and AC system is in order.

I also fitted the inner fenders and radiator/radiator support. I have plenty of room for what ever I want in the way of cooling systems. The stock mechanical will fit without drama.

I spent today putting in the new passenger floor board. 16ga was the thinnest sheet the metal yard had. I'm glad now. It made for a really strong panel even without bead rolling.

I bought a harbor freight air punch and flange tool. worked like a champ :grinpimp:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_4.jpg

one more pic...

We spent hours battery welding on them to get out...


I'm curious.. how?

A couple of batteries, jumper cables/welding leads and some welding rod.

Not the most precise power source but it'll do in a pinch.

I finished up the passenger floor board and started on the driver's side.

a couple more pics...

Awesome thread! This is really gonna save my ass!

I have a 78 Cherokee Chief 401/T400/Quadratrac that i'm about to do this to.

I already have the CUCV axles and am just waiting for the weather to warm up to make it happen.

Sounds like the front is just a bolt in, and the rear will require just a bit of work regarding spring perches. I already have a BJ's offroad 6" lift on there now, so with the SOA, i would think i'd be sitting at around 10".

On thing thats plauged me is trying to figure out which xfer case to swap in, as we all know the quadratrac is garbage. I've rebuilt the 401 so it stays, T400 is tough but i'm up for other options on that as well.

Whatcha think?

Thanks again for the build thread, it's JUST what i was looking for!

Damn, i just realized that was my first post here!

I love it here, there's no whining and everyone tells it like it is. :mr-t:

BUMP!

Whats goin on with this bad boy???

Sorry for the time since the last update. Had to gather some parts:smokin:

I started putting on the disk brakes yesterday. the fun part has been getting all the right studs. The oem studs are borderline too short for the wheel spacers.

there is a 3.5" stud from Oreillys' 610-193 that works for the rear. For the front you just have to live with the stockers. I couldn't find a longer stud. I'm sure somebody makes one.

I also rounded up a set of 5.3 exhaust manifolds from AT-Fab in Plano. Got them installed as well.

I hope to finish up the driver's floorboard this weekend and finish installing the disks and rotors.

Later,
Mark

more pics...

What are your front springs? stockers in spring over?

tagged for future cobbling

Yes they are stock w/spring over axle.

I gathered a few parts on Friday. New Diff covers, gaskets and a tie-rod end to finish up the parts for the steering. Now I need tubing for the tie rod and drag link.

I spent time on Saturday morning and Sunday evening reworking the rear spring packs. I took out 3 leaves, ~3/4" of spring thickness, and got a 3" reduction in ride height.

After the first one she was listing a bit port:D

Great build so far! Its been a while since your last post, any update?

Yeah, tell us tell us!!!

I moved to Oklahoma last summer. I sold my bender but got a cage in trade. Finally got the jeep back from the cage work about two moths ago.

I just started back on it in earnest last week. My son is helping me. He's been a lifesaver.

We pulled the 700r4 for a 4l60 i found on CL. We also put in the tcase (NP241C w/SYE). Then I took it to get the exhaust put on.

I also got a MSD LSX fuel system kit from speedway motors...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Complete-Fuel-Delivery-Kit,41792.html

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/51/91012805_R_1719892c.JPG

got a set of stewart warner wings gauges, a 20 circuit harness and 16" electric fan from www.parrautomotive.com then stopped by midwest hose and picked up the fuel lines.

The exhaust is dual 2.5" pipes crossed over the routed outside the rails in to magnalow mufflers and then to 3" tail pipes with 3.5" stainless tips all done by Klassic Muffler in Purcell, ok.I'll post up picks in the morning.

Glad to see this build is still alive. What part of Oklahoma did you move to?

Wayne, 20 mi south of norman.

pics........