Converting to hydro steering and want to run the tie rod up high. Anyone got pics of their arms and what length do they need to be to clear the front flange?

You cant run it through the same plane as the pinion and still have correct steering geometry. You could put a bend in it to get around this but you would be depending on jam nuts to hold the bar in place so they better be really tight. check out my website in mt sig to see what I have done temporarily. I actually just got done building the new 500 wall dom tie- rod tonight. I just used tapered inserts that necked the holes in the ackerman arms down to 3/4. The tie-rod in these pictures should give you an idea of how high you can get it without getting into the pinion. I have seen arms that run above the pinion but I wouldn't recomend that because it puts alot more stress on the bolts in the kingpin.

I knew the stock tie rods wouldn't hold up so I planned on building new ones. I also wanted to keep cost down so I decided to put the tie rod on top of the rockwell knuckles. I used 1.75x.375 with 3/4-3/4 heims. I drilled the holes in the rockwell knuckles out to 1", then used tubing with 1" od and 3/4" id welded in to give me a 3/4" hole. I had to bend the ends of the tie rods to clear the pinon disc.

I see what jeeper is saying about the jam nuts, but it works better than that. You'd have to try it to see, no problems. I've had jam nuts on my control arms get loose but not on my tie rods. Here is the best pic I have at the moment.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=927042

CJ

I really dislike those hella high steering arms cause they look like they would just rip right off with my hydro steering. I guess I could leave the tie rod down low, but I think I would just be bending it all the time like I do now with it sitting behind the axle. Just thought I would see what's out there.
erik