I want to put in my front high pinion D44 but I don't have the $ to rotate the knuckles. An extra CV would only be about $100 vs. $400 for the knuckle rotation. I've tried to do the knuckles myself but i just don't have the tools to do the job, plus i would have to get new axle tubes because this axle has those funky trailing arm mounts.

The setup i want to run is a military full time 8 lug i.e. no locking hubs. My "neutral" will be in the t-case. I know if i had hubs the issue wouldn't be a prob as long as i'm going slow.

So can i run a double cardon joint on each end of the front driveshaft instead of rotating the knuckles?

The current t-case and D30 axle i have now are at about 10 degrees difference from each other. The D30 is HP too so it makes a pretty good reference. The D44 has a longer snout so the angle will only get worse.

thanks

ghetto fab at its finest

:flipoff2:

So you're saying you don't know the answer:flipoff2:

Could someone at least answer me, whether i do it or not is my choice, hell if it works, and doesn't break then whose to criticize

no your drive shaft would flop around like a jump rope between them.

Send Jesse a PM, he owns High Angle Driveline and his name on Pirate is onetoncv.

It can be done, I have seen it. Strength becomes an issue. Like 350 Samurai mentioned above, call Jesse @ Highangle.

In most cases it can be done - but sometimes these dual -or double c/v's get a bit heavy and do not work well- its kinda hit and miss- Jess

Got a grinder, got a welder, got a BFH? You can twist'm in about two hours.

I would think a double ended driveshaft like that would cost almost as much as doing it right the first time around. buy a cheap grinder just for the job at hand, steal a bfh from someone and move em around then weld em back on. the funky trailing arm mounts are not part of the actual knuckle are they? I seem to recall they have a short peice of tubing in between em.

Call James at (510) 792-0660. He will do it for a LOT less than $400. He's in Fremont and he built my front axle and most of the axles for the guys in our club.

See i've already used a plasma cutter to get out most of the rosette welds on the pumkin. I think the $400 was to totally redo everything but at this point i'm willing to make my own leaf perches to fit over the exsisting crap on the axle. I know these axles aren't known for their strength, but I'm not that hardcore of a wheeler, nore is my s-10 that heavy.

Thanks for the guys # and I'll try to give him a call soon.

Originally posted by sfazr2
See i've already used a plasma cutter to get out most of the rosette welds on the pumkin. I think the $400 was to totally redo everything but at this point i'm willing to make my own leaf perches to fit over the exsisting crap on the axle. I know these axles aren't known for their strength, but I'm not that hardcore of a wheeler, nore is my s-10 that heavy.

Thanks for the guys # and I'll try to give him a call soon.

Hold on turbo, if you want to rotate the knuckles you twist them at the knuckle not at the dif, if you are retubing then that's a whole different matter.

well retubing was the original plan, but now that i'm re-employed making a lot less$$, I'm willing to take what i can get vs, getting what I want.

Really, what difference would it matter rotating at the pumpkin vs. the knuckle or is rotating at the knuckle anyhow just going to work better no matter how much work i've done at the pumkin.

Plus i think i remember that the weld on short side is going to be very hard to grind off with that trailing arm mount in the way. It's butted up pretty damn close.