I AM THINKING ABOUT FABBING OUT MY OWN HYSTEER SETUP, AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT ISSUES I NEED TO BE THINKING ABOUT FROM THE STEERING GURU'S. IF I NEED TO ASK IN GENERAL I WILL BUT I WOULD RATHER NOT. RIGHT NOW I HAVE:
SHEER STRESS ON THE BOLTS
ACKRMAN ANGLE
ARM LENGTH

WHAT ELSE? I KNOW I AM GOING TO NEED TO FARM OUT SOME PROBOBLY COSTLY TAPERED BITS, BUT WHAT ARE THE STEERING ISSUES? FROM THOSE WHO HAVE RUN/LOOKED IN=DEPTH INTO DIFFERENT SET UPS OFFERED, WHAT ARE THE PROS/CONS OF WHATS ON THE MARKET?

THANKS

MATT :skull:

I was under the impression that if you had mini truck knuckles or later model knuckles then you could just use the setup off a mini truck. Is that what you are asking

arndog

UMMM NOT REALLY, I'M MORE LOOKING TO CREATE MY OWN SET OF HYSTEER ARMS FROM SCRATCH. ARE YOU SAYING THAT MINI'S HAVE HYSTEER STOCK?

nope I was just saying that I think the arms are pretty reasonable for the mini trucks.

arndog

It is only cost effective if you are makeing more than one set. Believe me I started out that road. First you need to get the tapers made by a tool cutter. I got mine made for $125. One for the 40* cone on the steering arm bolt and the other depends on the TRE you are using (GM or Toyota 80 series TRE). I think you can get away with a 1.5"/ft ream for the GM TRE, but not sure. I had one made at 7*. Then come the cost of a good alloy steel. I paid $70 for a 4" x 24" chunk of 4140 1" steel. The tierod and drag link do not have to be DOM. Since you are high steer, they wil be out of the way of most of the rock, and you can do with regular HREW steel( approx $15-20). The then you can get the RH and LH tubing adapters for the TRE. I think rockequipment.com has them for a decent price. The b!*tch is cutting the steel and getting the bolt pattern on to match the knuckle. A transfer punch works good for the pattern, but cutting the right pattern on 1" steel is a bitch. You need access to a slow band saw and a good blade, a mill, or a big plasma cutter. Don't forget to mill the arms to have a 10* angle on the TRE maounting surface to matcht he angle of the arms. Now you go buy the TREs you wanted. Total of 4 would be $100-130, for GM TRE. With all this you are about $350 for one set plus $ for machine work if you have some body do the cutting and drilling. Don't forget the blades you will use when trying to cut the steel and it does not work. I tried a band saw not set up for steel (read wood), too fast, ruined new blade. Table saw with steel abrasive blade, only got so far, then just started slideing accross surface, need blade to be able to attack steel at tangetn point perpendicular to steel surface that you are cutting. You need to make radiused corners so it will be stronger. It is a lot of hassel for just on set of arms, but would be good for multiple sets if you have several rigs, or friends, (read someone who will not sue you if they break and somebody gets hurt) (Need Disclaimer form).

Best way and cheapest is by the arms fro $250. Make rod and drag link for $50 (material and rod end adpaters) and by TREs.
The above is just my opinion and what I have encountered. I may have done things wrong, but what I did is the best I could with my resouces.:flipoff2::flipoff2:

Good luck
-Darius

Fixxxah,

The mini truck outer knuckle is a direct replacement for a Land Cruiser disk brake outer knuckle. Just to clarify here is a diagram of the part I am talking about. By switching this over to the mini truck parts you can simply buy one of the many pre-made high steer arms. This information is based on a friend doing exactly this on his rig, works great. All Pro sells the mini knuckles for something like $40 each. I am sure you could track down a set locally.

Mark