I want to do a front link suspension on my scout II of some sort 3 or triangulated 4 with coil overs or has anyone used a set up from IHON they seem to have good stuff. I would like some good flex anyone have pics or ideas. :D

I want to do a front link suspension on my scout II of some sort 3 or triangulated 4 with coil overs or has anyone used a set up from IHON they seem to have good stuff. I would like some good flex anyone have pics or ideas. :D

Have you done much with the search button?

(hint: look at the underlined part in my signiture)

My keyboard doesn't have that button. :D

Just look around, my Scout is linked with coils kinda like a bronco frt, Buck did a very indepth work up on linking a front. If Jeff sells it it will be done right, but you will have to pay for RnD and marketing.


edit:SEARCH

So I found a bunch of builds on link suspension but no one with a triangulated 4 link up front and for the most part all of the builds with links in the front aren't that flexy.

I take exception to that, mine is flexie as hell, will max a ramp and rides like a Buick. Triangulated frt will be a bitch to build because you have an engine and tranny in the way:homer: Bottom line keep searching, ask questions when you are doing the build, and we will be happy to help out. Also look at RockScout now and then its bad ass and has all tech you need.

Three link with track bar front and rear. Coilovers in front, tj coils in rear. Not very flexy though.:flipoff2:

Rkscout that's some good flex. I started to read your build but didn't get to the specs yet. What's your front shock travel and do you have a lot of body roll on the road? I was thinking about linking the rear but was worried about to much body roll. Oh yeah I like to do donuts too.

Thanks JetFxr do you have any flex shots? How does yours handle on the road?

search

I'll just search for handling. Thanks for not answering my questions you said you would answer.:shaking:

Said if you are doing a build and ask questions, be happy to help. If you are collecting pictures I don't have a flex picture handy here are some of my Scout.

I know you said it rides like a buick does it handle like one. Do you have a lot of body roll when you turn. From what I found your front link set up is the most common and seems to be the simple way to go. The reason I'm asking how it handles cause I like to do donuts and if the body roll is to bad I'll stick with leafs in the rear. Thanks for the pics.

I know you said it rides like a buick does it handle like one. Do you have a lot of body roll when you turn. From what I found your front link set up is the most common and seems to be the simple way to go. The reason I'm asking how it handles cause I like to do donuts and if the body roll is to bad I'll stick with leafs in the rear. Thanks for the pics.
Body roll is a function of how you set your links up. Spend the DAYS it will require to read up on link suspensions in General Tech. You'll have to weed through the BS as well as the meet, but its there. There is no one "perfect" suspension, but you can get close. Also what works on paper doesn't always fit in real life, you have you to make compromises.

Said if you are doing a build and ask questions, be happy to help. If you are collecting pictures I don't have a flex picture handy here are some of my Scout.
Hey Robert, you have any better pictures of you Panhard? Trying to see how you stuffed it in there.

Body roll is a function of how you set your links up. Spend the DAYS it will require to read up on link suspensions in General Tech. You'll have to weed through the BS as well as the meet, but its there. There is no one "perfect" suspension, but you can get close. Also what works on paper doesn't always fit in real life, you have you to make compromises.

I didn't notice any significant body roll driving Robert's Scout - and there was no wheel hop when the Krawlers couldn't handle the throttle, either. Kind of a weird feeling for me and I didn't realize the tires were chirping at the time (gravel road and I wasn't really ON it)

Here's my D&C 5-link that sports lots of up and down travel, but little articulation (which is what I wanted)

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63160-5/06-05-10_1711.jpg
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63187-5/06-05-10_1720.jpg

One side held near full bump, the other free to droop..

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63217-5/06-05-10_1736.jpg

And naturally, anything with a panhard wants to go sideways as it moves..

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63166-5/06-05-10_1713.jpg

Here's my D&C 5-link that sports lots of up and down travel, but little articulation (which is what I wanted)

Does D&C sell that as a 5 link? Most people that I know of would refer to a radius arm setup as 3 link...
As for the original question read what Rusty wrote. You can look at a link setup all day long but until you get the actual measurements and numbers you won't be able to duplicate it. I don't have any good pics handy but my link setup is very stable as I short track race it all the time and can slide it sideways into a 4 wheel drift nicely. COG is another topic though and it gets me once in a while.:shaking:
You could search for S&N fab link suspension if you want but I'm not sure what you'll find as they never sold their setups as a kit.

Does D&C sell that as a 5 link? Most people that I know of would refer to a radius arm setup as 3 link...


D'oh, I was thinking about the work I need to do on my crewcab this morning - those are definitely radius arms on the Scout, so a 3-link, or radius/panhard.

The radius arms still need plated for more strength.

D'oh, I was thinking about the work I need to do on my crewcab this morning - those are definitely radius arms on the Scout, so a 3-link, or radius/panhard.

The radius arms still need plated for more strength.
And the rust removed... :flipoff2:

you got alot of work to do :eek:

And the rust removed... :flipoff2:

you got alot of work to do :eek:

Thanks, Mark.

I was just getting warmed up to the idea of getting motivated start tearing into it..

Thanks, Mark.

I was just getting warmed up to the idea of getting motivated start tearing into it..


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I'm here to help!!!


:D :flipoff2:

Rkscout that's some good flex. I started to read your build but didn't get to the specs yet. What's your front shock travel and do you have a lot of body roll on the road? I was thinking about linking the rear but was worried about to much body roll. Oh yeah I like to do donuts too.

Fronts are 14" sway-a-way coilovers, 250# lower springs, not sure what the uppers are as I bought them used. The rear springs are tj 3 1/2" rear lift springs. I do get some body roll with it. Good on road handling, but I don't think I will try and do donuts with it though.

I didn't notice any significant body roll driving Robert's Scout - and there was no wheel hop when the Krawlers couldn't handle the throttle, either. Kind of a weird feeling for me and I didn't realize the tires were chirping at the time (gravel road and I wasn't really ON it)

Here's my D&C 5-link that sports lots of up and down travel, but little articulation (which is what I wanted)

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63160-5/06-05-10_1711.jpg
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63187-5/06-05-10_1720.jpg

One side held near full bump, the other free to droop..

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63217-5/06-05-10_1736.jpg

And naturally, anything with a panhard wants to go sideways as it moves..

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/63166-5/06-05-10_1713.jpg

Radius arms, which is what you've got there, require rubber bushings at the axle end. As the axle articulates, the axle wants to twist (pass side upper wants to rotate forward, drivers side lower wants to rotate back and vice versa depending on which side is going up or down). Rubber bushings allow this to happen. Looks like those are some type of johhny joint which don't allow that type of motion. Either replace the joints with rubber bushings, or remove one of the uppers. If D and C is marketing it with those joints, I'd second guess the engineering behind the kit :eek:

Radius arms, which is what you've got there, require rubber bushings at the axle end. As the axle articulates, the axle wants to twist (pass side upper wants to rotate forward, drivers side lower wants to rotate back and vice versa depending on which side is going up or down). Rubber bushings allow this to happen. Looks like those are some type of johhny joint which don't allow that type of motion. Either replace the joints with rubber bushings, or remove one of the uppers. If D and C is marketing it with those joints, I'd second guess the engineering behind the kit :eek:

Rubber bushings = slop, though they do allow articulation.

The lack of articulation is actually a desired byproduct in this case of using radius arms, and why it's 3 attachment points per side, instead of 2 on one, and 1 on the other.

This way I only need the IHOnly North anti-sway bar in the rear, which twists a good bit w/o it (no binding) - the radius arms are part of the anti-sway system up front.

...it's a go-fast ride, not a rock-crawler.

(though right now, it's primary motivation is by the wind that constantly blows here..)

Rubber bushings = slop, though they do allow articulation.

The lack of articulation is actually a desired byproduct in this case of using radius arms, and why it's 3 attachment points per side, instead of 2 on one, and 1 on the other.

This way I only need the IHOnly North anti-sway bar in the rear, which twists a good bit w/o it (no binding) - the radius arms are part of the anti-sway system up front.

...it's a go-fast ride, not a rock-crawler.

(though right now, it's primary motivation is by the wind that constantly blows here..)

Better brace those axle brackets!

Thanks RKScout I will go with a 3 link up front and leafs in the rear. :D :beer:

So I found a bunch of builds on link suspension but no one with a triangulated 4 link up front and for the most part all of the builds with links in the front aren't that flexy.

I'm 4 link front :homer:

Here ya go Rusty O

Oh yeah BLK Scout has hella sick flex. Is it possible to get that much out of a dual purpose rig? :eek:

Here ya go Rusty O
hmmm, didn't think of that...

:beer:

I have a fourlink rear and three link front and as far as flex goes I can work the full travel of my 16" airshocks. It is all about taking the time to set them up properly. I would suggest a fourlink rear and a good sway bar and you will find it very stable on the road. Why go halfway and link the front and then leave the rear playing catch up on leaves? In my experience by the time you break a good set of leaves in to make them flex they arent all that great on the road either?

Edit for Pictures:
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad188/T-Gilpin/RMIHR%202010/P8020355.jpg

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad188/T-Gilpin/RMIHR%202010/P8020321.jpg

Good point sway bars are good. I didn't even think of that why half ass it when you can go all the way. :grinpimp: