I finally got a good look at my junkyard TH400 and found I need to replace the oil pan.

Is it worth the extra money to get one of the funky aluminum with fins + whatever type oil pans?

Or should I save the money and just get a regular high capacity oil pan?

Or is the high capacity oil pan worth the effort?

NOTE: Me and auto's don't get along well. I want to get every advantage I can on things that need to be replaced :D

Thanks in advance,
John

Buy a name brand cast aluminum deep sump pan if you buy one new. Most of the new stamped steel pans can me hard to seal up as most are thinner than stock and many don't have that raised rib in between the bolts that helps to seal and stiffen the pan flange area between the bolts. Most will have a drain bolt but if its not there add one before you fill the tranny. If you use the B&M drain bolt kit most tranny temp senders use the same threads! Best to put the drain pan bolt on the side if possible--one less item to snag on rocks. Also a skid plate would be a great addition as you won't move if you put a hole in the pan. And most are not equiped to weld on cast aluminum.

Jason :)

DO NOT Get a stamped steel pan from your parts warehouse. That is what the guy put on the jeep that I own before I bought it and it leaks all the time. When you put it on it may not leak but it WILL. It pisses me off everytime I look at it.

Jason, good point on the skid plate... forgot to mention that I would be doing a full awn skid plate for the rig:p

And definately thanks for the secret about the sh1tty metal pans.

I'm still trying to figure out if the hole in my pan(which has the stamped Hydromatic on it) was a Pick-n-Pull quick fluid removal since I had the same style hole in the oil pan of the engine I pulled. Or if it was the "previous" owner. Really pisses me off since both were in great shape other than the fawking hole in it:mad:

You can braze the hole shut. Standard practice when I worked at a bone-yard :D

Maybe use the hole as a convenient place for the drain plug ;)

Avoid the "cheap" over priced $40 to $50 dollar chrome pans from your local speed shop too--even if they are name brand I would steer clear. I've bought two of these over the years--mostly after having bought transmissions from Pick N' Pull with the stabbed hole in them and/or crushed by the fork lift... Anyway these are the same pans you see for $15 to $30 at the big mailorder houses. Both of these leak--I have aluminum pans ready to go on! Anyone need a cheap chrome Turbo 400 oil pan?

Jason :)

u2slow, I'll take a look at that... it didn't have a drain plug so it would need one :p But knowing my luck, it is probably in the wrong place :(

Does anyone want to comment on using a higher capacity pan? Good, bad, or indifferent.

High capacity cast pans will help to keep more fluid over the filter during off camber situations. You know, when the pucker factor is high :flipoff2: I have one on my truck and it also helps to keep the fluid a little cooler by adding an extra 1-2 quarts to the system.

John -

For 4x applications, increase your fluid capacity with a cooler, not the pan. Run a BIG cooler if you are going to be crawling, preferrably with its own fan.

Jim

Originally posted by TLCObsession
John -

For 4x applications, increase your fluid capacity with a cooler, not the pan. Run a BIG cooler if you are going to be crawling, preferrably with its own fan.

Jim

Jim,
Out of curiousity, why not the larger pan? Is it simply because of the extra inch or two hanging?

I am definately running a cooler... I might actually do two :p

Depends on how low your drive train is, and what your skidplate plans are. I am no slushbox expert, but I think that a deeper pan isn't necessarily going to help you off axis.

Originally posted by Lil'John
u2slow, I'll take a look at that... it didn't have a drain plug so it would need one :p But knowing my luck, it is probably in the wrong place :(

Does anyone want to comment on using a higher capacity pan? Good, bad, or indifferent.

I use them in every tranny I run. I recommend the B&M brand that summit sells. They seems to be about 1/2 in. thick in the whole casting.:eek: The extra fluid helps the tranny temps run cooler also. If you do run a tranny cooler in conjuction with the pan you should never have any problems....I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM.......I have run some crazy engine combos with autos and I haven't been let down....... :D

the deep pan in itself is not better for off camber, but when you add the extra long pick up it lowers the pickup to the bottom of thepan, keeping more fluid above the top of the p/u, making it less likely to suck air on off cambers...

if you're looking for a "stock" pan with a skid plate, Transdapt makes one....

I've personally never been a fan of "deep pans" only because I want the trans and oil pan up as far out of harms way as possible, though a strong skidplate could counter this.... also look into drive shaft clearence at full droop of the tire on the same side as the driveshaft - my driveshaft has "self-clearenced" the pan.... I think I would be in trouble with a deep pan or a "cast pan" - but my steel pan just "molded" itself for custom clearence....


and put a drain plug in it...you'll be gad you did...

a cooler is a must....get the biggest one you can fit.....



:usa:

I bought the crappy one with the cooling tubes that run through the pan. Its metal and finally after a year I got it to seal. Now its time to change the filter again!!!!:mad: