Well in my sig is my 91 sport hunk of crap. Did the 5.0 swap, and the 5.0 i got came with a T-5 manual. well I'm gonna be using a c4 auto, and i've never dealt with the install of an auto... I had no problem with the removal in install of the T-5 (long story) Anyways, I've search here, and on yahoo and google, and got little info. The most I've found was on a few mustang sites, and they were sayin i gotta make sure the torque convertor properly mounts on the shaft, i believe making three clicks, as it passes over the shaft http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=130060&highlight=c4

Well I'm sure some of you guys can help me out here. I assumed it was simple and straight forward install but you guys know anything in particular? Any tips?
Thanks in advance
Pete

Havnt instaled a C-4 but I did put an AOD(there wasnt a single place I could find that had a good C-4:mad:) on my truck this summer when I did a 5.0 swap and it was pretty staight forward. I installed the tranny to the motor while it was still outside of the truck and all I had to really do was bolt up the bellhouseing and made sure that the flexplate and torque conveter lined up and bolted them, up also make sure you have the little spacer plate/mud sheld thingy or else your torque converter will hit the flexplate bolts. It was my first time to ever really mess with an auto tranny and it was pretty simple. Hooking it up was simple to, I used a B&M shifter that bolted over the hole that was left from my 5 speed and just ran the cable down and hooked it up to the linkage. I have heard however that with the B&M shifters and a C-4 that there might be some issues with the shifter cable and the T-case but Im not posative on that one.
Good luck with the swap.
Justin<><

I have one suggestion DON'T FORCE IT! I did that on my first auto install and shoved the input shaft back into the tranny and broke a few things. Expensive lesson. Now how too tell when it is in a bind or just not linning up quite right is the fun part. I put the torque converter on the tranny first. This is where I have seen a lot of beginners make mistakes (including myself). Make sure it goes on far enough onto the shaft. How far on the c-4 I don't remember. Maybe about 1/4" inside the bellhousing? Look at how far the fly wheel sticks out from the motor. This distance will give you an idea of the depth needed. It probably wont go right on far enough the first shove, rotate and jiggle it while pushing in on it until it looks right. As far as the three clicks, I just installed one of these about a month ago and I don't remember three clicks. This is just my backyard experiance, maybe somebody else has a better text book explanation. Just my .02

Email BlueOx or Alx from the RRORC boards, they can give you all the details!

Chubby:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Crushin95
Email BlueOx or Alx from the RRORC boards, they can give you all the details!

Chubby:flipoff2:

Done... asked em to post so as everyone else could learm but nothin so far...

thanks for the responses guys...
Anyone else?

Pete

Here is what I know Pete:


1. You only need to lengthen the rear driveshaft by about 4 if you keep your T-case. You can avoid shortening the front one by using a front driveshaft from an 84-85 Bronco II or Ranger, which is already 4.5" shorter.

2. Use the floor shifter from the same 84-85 BII/Ranger and the cable. Saves you from cutting the floorboards and saves yoiu the trouble of fabbing a cable!

3. The Flywheel is another issue. I belive that you can use a 4.0 auto equiped flywheel on the C4. It will fit 2.8/2.9/4.0 motors.

Good luck!




:p

Nice double post! Thanks.. but so ya know, this is all going behind a 5.0, and is being mated to a dana 20 t-case!
Pete

Just my .02 , but make sure you get a flex plate that is made for the newer(fuel injected motors) if you use the older style, like I did(put flexplate off of 73 on 89 motor) you will have one hell of a vibration. The balancing is different. I ordered one for a 87 F-150 with 5.0 . Just thought you might want to know, sucks to do it twice.:D

Originally posted by pumpkinbronc
Just my .02 , but make sure you get a flex plate that is made for the newer(fuel injected motors) if you use the older style, like I did(put flexplate off of 73 on 89 motor) you will have one hell of a vibration. The balancing is different. I ordered one for a 87 F-150 with 5.0 . Just thought you might want to know, sucks to do it twice.:D

Good call! But i got this taken care of already! :) Since I'm using a big bell c-4, I had to order a 164 tooth, 50oz balencer. I've heard jegs carries one custom that's near 200 bucks, but i went to http://www.performanceautomatic.com/NH.htm and ordered a HD part number # PA26464 for 81 bucks, I told them what i was doing, and they said it was the correct part as well ( goes along with what the guys on all the stang boards said) I've heard no complaints on any BB's of them, and their service on the phone was great, and the parts made it to my house in about 4 days. I'll see the quality this weekend, when i get back from school, and should get pics.
Pete

Here is what I'm doing for a 5.0 to C4.
Keep the stock 5.0 harmonic balancer up front. Get an AOD flex plate for the rear from a 5.0, it around 50 oz. Then find a late C4 torque converter with the 11.4 bolt pattern. It’ll bolt up the AOD flex plate.

There are a lot of 10.4 flex plates and torque converters C-4’s out there.
C4 stock is 28 oz, that is why you can’t use the flex plate unless you get it re-balanced. Then I’d work.
If you can find a C4 torque converter with a drain hole in it, mine came from a 1979 F150 2WD.
Starter, I’d save your pennys and get a 92 and Up mini. Just make sure it’s for an auto. Or pull it with the flex plate.
:idea:

I've heard all about using the AOD plates... and I also heard some people having issues with clearances... Plus mine was only 80 bucks... only 20 more than yer average jegs or summit plate. Unfortunately, at school, there are very few junkyards around here to get a used AOD plate, and im not home alot to go hunting, so we shall see how mine turns out.
Pete

I just did this swap into a 94 YJ. Since you are using the EB bell, I used a car bell. You just need the truck size flex plate. The mustang bell is a better fit into a ranger/bII. The reason I used the car bell was for the two extra bolt holes on the back side of the bell, used them to hold the kick down cable. There were 2 diffrent size bellhousings. Mustang(and other cars built on same chassis) and everything else. Don't forget the backing plate, like mentioned earier. Install the converter into the tranny. There are two sets of splines to engage, the stator support and the input shaft. If you are installing the tranny into vehical after the engine is in. Here is a cool little trick. Take two 7/16 bolts, cut the heads off, grind them round, and screw them into two of the bell bolts that you can easily get to. This makes for two extra long dowels. That way you can spin the engine, or converter, into the right alignment, with the converter studs.

If you have any other questions fell free to PM or email me.

Originally posted by emsoffroad
Here is a cool little trick. Take two 7/16 bolts, cut the heads off, grind them round, and screw them into two of the bell bolts that you can easily get to. This makes for two extra long dowels. That way you can spin the engine, or converter, into the right alignment, with the converter studs.

Very cool! This is the shit i'm lookin for is helpful tricks like this! I just got a big bell b/c it was available at a good price from a friend who wanted to get rid of it. I know it'll be a tighter fit, but with the body lift :rolleyes: and a BFH, it's gonna fit in somehow!

Thanks for the tip!
Pete

Originally posted by emsoffroad
Since you are using the EB bell, I used a car bell. There were 2 diffrent size bellhousings. Mustang(and other cars built on same chassis) and everything else.



:rolleyes:
The 75/76 EB C4's are small bellhousing C4's. The difference between EB and car C4's is that the EB are pan fill where the car C4's are usually all case fill(at least all the ones I have seen).

Originally posted by Poofey




:rolleyes:
The 75/76 EB C4's are small bellhousing C4's. The difference between EB and car C4's is that the EB are pan fill where the car C4's are usually all case fill(at least all the ones I have seen).
You are correct about the case/pan fill. The EB bell bolts on with a seperate set of bolts, the car bells bolt thru the front pump.

So 74 and older, and 77 are big bellhousing? Funny the two that I have sitting in my garage fit the same flex plate as Garanda bell, and the same flex plate that fits a truck C6. The ones that I have are the big ones.

Yeah.. the whole '3 click' thing will get ya. If you monkey with it for 10 minutes and only get 2 clicks.. better keep monkeying. With two 'clicks' the converter isn't fully seated on the input shaft.. the inner ring is still off.. you will be able to get bolts on the block.. and get very close to snugging everything up.. but it will be a little off.. and you'll know it.. and you'll know why.. and you'll be pissed when you get to pull it all back out and screw with the converter again. Trust me. If you get it all seated in there with only 2 clicks.. try turning the crank..

By the way.. the late model ford stuff goes something like this.. auto stuff was 164 tooth, and manual stuff was 157. Everything after like.. 80 or 81 I think is 50ounce imbalance.. while earlier stuff was 28ounce. I'm running a semi-cheap (non-SFI) flexplate that is 157 tooth and 50ounce imbalance that I got from Summit (I think?) with my late model 302 and early C4. Good luck :)