For those that run steel wheels, has anyone got suggestions on a "better" dust cap? The maxidrives are nice, but I don't have the money for new axels yet, so what recomendations short of 'buying a bunch' do you guys have?

-Jeff

buy a bunch

Hehehe, no really just get some right stuff, and put it on the back of the cap. It will stay as long as it does not get hit by anything. Make sure though that the right stuff does not get on the C-clip for the CV, or you will be picking it out next time a shaft blows. This is what we did at the dealership for those damn plastic LR embelems on the stock rover wheels.

Originally posted by Puffdragon
buy a bunch

Hehehe, no really just get some right stuff, and put it on the back of the cap. It will stay as long as it does not get hit by anything. Make sure though that the right stuff does not get on the C-clip for the CV, or you will be picking it out next time a shaft blows. This is what we did at the dealership for those damn plastic LR embelems on the stock rover wheels.

LOL!
I can still see the face of the people with HSE's when I went out with a tube!

j

Why couldn't one merely chuck up the drive flange on the inner ridge that fits into the hub and turn the taper (where the dust caps go) straight and thread for a pipe cap or similar? It wouldn't need to be a tapered thread.

Paul

Hey I dont have a coil sprung truck but their dust caps are plastic right? Maybe you could put metal ones from a series on there? Hell I donno, rovers after 1967 suck . . .hehehe
-Ike

Watch it Ike! That's enough of your luddite opinions:-).

Paul
(who still wishes engines used breaker points.

Originally posted by PTSchram
Why couldn't one merely chuck up the drive flange on the inner ridge that fits into the hub and turn the taper (where the dust caps go) straight and thread for a pipe cap or similar? It wouldn't need to be a tapered thread.

Paul

Damn...Now THAT would be funny!!! Big ol' gavanized pipe caps!! Might go well with a galvanized bulk head though.

Acutally turning and threading the ends would be the best solution, and a great idea. I think the end caps for the Maxi flanges are relativly cheap...Just find out what the pitch is (18 or 20?) and mic the diameter and your done permanently.

--D

It was MY idea, and the post represents the preliminary public disclosure of the my idea for a departure from present art.

My patent application and trademark paperwork are on their way to the P&T office.

(hopefully, the barristers in Solihull won't be calling me demanding I cease and desist reverse engineering their trucks-nor that my present employer doesn't demand that I turn the rights over to them)

BTL Engineering will soon have modified drive flanges available for sale, or if you wish, send me your drive flanges and I'll machine them and return.

The patent comments were facetious. Someday, I'll be making the flanges with threads. Time to go make the prototype!

Paul

The quick fix sounds like the "right stuff" only problem is I have never heard of it. Is that the name of the product or is that the type of product?

The permant solution I am pursuing is a thick metal cap with three set screws (ala residential light fixture). Although the screw cap is a nice idea, Ill have to cost that out.


-Jeff

Originally posted by JSBriggs
The quick fix sounds like the "right stuff" only problem is I have never heard of it. Is that the name of the product or is that the type of product?

-Jeff

Jeff, Right Stuff is the actual name of the product. It is in a black labelled can and available at Pep Boys or most other auto parts stores. It sells for about $10 a can. Kind of pricey, but worth it.

Basically it is a sealant. It's biggest use to me is to replace that pesky drive flange gasket seeing how I like to tear my truck apart nearly every other weekend.

Of course there are other uses...... Hanging pictures in the house for example. It will also help keep the Jelly in the Jelly Donut! It doesn't taste that great though.. However Blue Locktite is actually kind of sweet. Don't ask how I know this!

lwg-

thanks for the info, sound kinda like a cross between silicone and shoe goo. As far as drive flange gaskets, I use Permatex form-a-gasket. Comes in a clear or blue tube (I have seen both) but the product itself is red and smells like cherry licorice, can't comment on the taste though. It works great and never really dries, so it seals very well.

-Jeff

Get the kinda of right stuff with the caulk gun. I have seen series rovers with the dust caps welded on so there is an idea :)

Ron

Rovers after 1959 are crap

How similar are coiler caps and flanges to salisbury caps and flanges?

I have been pretty amazed at how well the o-ring retains the caps. One of mine got beat all to hell and needed replacing. Took a couple blows with the BFH to get it off.

Later
Pete

Paul, ill take you up on your offer whats your eamil i lost the account i had at my Day Job

Dee_C:
Gee, I wonder who that is? Did you get lucky and they fired you so you can Rover full time? I keep hoping it will happen here. Got into it with another of the managers again today. Over of all things, additional costs on a $1.3 M machine due to guarding that I want added. Given the cost, just think how much guarding you could put on without it having a noticeable effect on the cost of the machine.

BTLRovers@hotmail.com

I have no manufacturing experience, however, I do wonder how much it would cost to have some flanges made up like maxidrive's I have some sitting around in the garage that I could take to a shop! Any of you know what something like that might cost?

Joshua:
I don't know what the Maxi-drives look like,nor whattheir advantages are, but I would expect that if you were to take an OEM drive flange to a job shop, they would probably charge you their minimum price as most shops have a minimum price comparable to about two hours of machine time, and if it takes somebody more than two hours to cut a few hundred thousandths off of a piece of cast iron and chase a thread, they won't be in that line of business very long.

If there were enough call, one could easily set up a cheapie turret lathe to do this job in two operations, maybe three at the most. The required tooling should be in every machine shop's repertoire. Turn to size, chase, box and invoice. Total set up cost-maybe $2000 if you use Enco machinery!

Flame suit on after the Enco comment.

Paul

Along with that galvi pipe cap, you could add a nice long straight piece of pipe with metal blades welded on.

Very LR RoadWarrior like...and good for mall parking lots :D

keith
:usa:

OK, I guess I did say pipe cap, but I was envisioning something more along the line of a hexagonal brass cap, not a big ugly galvanized cap that would need to be removed to allow the wheel to come off.

WOW! You guys are rough on a fella. I'll have to curb my enthusiasm for getting an idea out and spend more time thinking things through before my public disclosures!

Peace,
Paul