Personally, since I´ve a factory coily, I couldn´t give a fawk if they do or don´t work. However, it has intrigued me to hear from people that Z-Links actually help to reduce bumpsteer.

Everything I know about physics and kinematics (sp) says that the shape of the lever arm has no effect whatsoever on the relative movement of the ends. Therefore, a Z-Link could be a B-Link, an M-Link or any other Letter-Link and it wouldn´t make any difference. However, I have no practical experience with these gizmos to back up the theory.

I can buy into the idea that a Z-Link would reduce the angles of the tie rod ends, but as far as I can see, this wouldn´t affect bumpsteer in any form.

Opinions?!?!? It´s slow here today anyways........:p

The shape of the drag link has nothing to do with bumpsteer.
The steering system works through a straight line (Regardless of the D.L. shape) which connects the end of the pitman arm to the point at which the drag link connects to the rest of the system.

The only way to improve bumpsteer characteristics is to make the drag link as close to parallel with the tie rod as possible. This can be done by lowering the pitman arm connection point, raising the other end's connection point, or a combination of both. ;)

I agree fully with you, Oily. So then why do guys install these POS on their rigs?!?!

Originally posted by billj
I agree fully with you, Oily. So then why do guys install these POS on their rigs?!?!

Well Back in the day, before cross overs and high steer. It was a way to link the tie rod and the pitman arm while having a lift. I don't 100% agree that it does nothing, because I have wheeled with a drop pitman arm, then I jumped to 33's a Petro Z link and Power steering. I saw little difference, if any.

Again z-links do nothing for bumpsteer, they are to fix the tie rod end binding on the pitman and to clear the leaf spring

Originally posted by billj
.... So then why do guys install these POS on their rigs?!?!


Because it is the cheapest way to make the steering useable after spending all your $ on wheels & tires for your SPOA . :)

they work great, until you hit a pothole, or a rock, or if you actually want to wheel. how about high steer. I never even ran stock sami axles but has anycody ever done it? is it possible? or you could bet a dropped pitman arm.

Ive built many. It does HELP bumpsteer compared to a stock drag link thats been bent to accomodate the rod end angles. BUT...... It does not eliminate bumpsteer, regardless of theory. Theory is bullshit till proven otherwise. :flipoff2:

i personally run a zlink. I still have plenty of bumpsteer. why do i have one. for two simple reasons, i got it for free and why spend 500 bucks on hysteer on zuki axles?

when i do my 44 conversion i will most likely go high steer.

Originally posted by Destroyer Dychen
i personally run a zlink. I still have plenty of bumpsteer

You will still have tons of bumpsteer with a z link if the geometry isnt right. Can be brought to a minimum with proper geometry but it will still be there.

Originally posted by Titanium
Ive built many. It does HELP bumpsteer compared to a stock drag link thats been bent to accomodate the rod end angles. BUT...... It does not eliminate bumpsteer, regardless of theory. Theory is bullshit till proven otherwise. :flipoff2:

But HOW does it help?!?! I´m not trying to start a pissing contest or anything, so don´t take my insistance as a flame...:) I just can´t see where a Z-link should have any effect whatsoever on bumpsteer, either positively or negatively.....

Originally posted by billj


But HOW does it help?!?! I´m not trying to start a pissing contest or anything, so don´t take my insistance as a flame...:) I just can´t see where a Z-link should have any effect whatsoever on bumpsteer, either positively or negatively.....

Here's the deal.... a stock drag link gets shorter when u lift your truck. This gives u deadly bumpsteer. With the z-link what you want is to end up bein the same length as ur stock draglink in stock position. Like i said before, just helps it. If you crank your lift and leave the drag link the way it is, you'll see what i mean, hit a SMALL bump in the road and the bumpsteer will crank the steering wheel half way around on ya..... scary.

Originally posted by Titanium


Here's the deal.... a stock drag link gets shorter when u lift your truck. This gives u deadly bumpsteer. With the z-link what you want is to end up bein the same length as ur stock draglink in stock position. Like i said before, just helps it. If you crank your lift and leave the drag link the way it is, you'll see what i mean, hit a SMALL bump in the road and the bumpsteer will crank the steering wheel half way around on ya..... scary.

So, in effect the Z-link just re-centers the steering wheel.... OK, I´ll buy that....:)

Originally posted by billj


So, in effect the Z-link just re-centers the steering wheel.... OK, I´ll buy that....:)

Actually it re-centers the steering wheel, straightens out the aproach angle for the tie rod ends and adds the clearance needed to get around the leaf springs.

Does nothing for actual bumpsteer.

Originally posted by billjohn


Actually it re-centers the steering wheel, straightens out the aproach angle for the tie rod ends and adds the clearance needed to get around the leaf springs.

Does nothing for actual bumpsteer.

Bill speaks truth.

People need to know what bump steer is before they can talk intelligently about it.

Suspension parts binding against other suspension parts is not bumpsteer, it's a red neck fawk up. (And I mean that in the best possible way :flipoff2: :D).

r@m

Exactly as the theory would have predicted........

Just for shits and giggles, maybe it´d be fun to set off this debate over on Topica...:flipoff2: :D

Now take that a step further. Stock drag link is fine for stock height, as it's nominally close to horizontal. You want the link horizontal so that the lateral movement is minimized through it's arc of motion (your suspension travel). Now you lift the vehicle 3", and bend your stock drag link to releive the angle on the joints. Your drag link is now much too short, the initial 3" plus however much you lost by bending it. It also puts it at more of an angle relative to horizontal, so any suspension travel causes more lateral movement than it did when closer to horizontal. The fact that it's now shorter than stock isn't helping any either. The Zlink by being differently shaped does nothing for bumpsteer, that's just for the balljoint's health. The fact that it's considerably longer, however, does help because the longer arm equals a longer radius, which effectively puts the link at less of an angle. Less angle, less lateral movement through the range of suspension travel, less bumpsteer. The important thing was that I had an onion tied to my belt.
whodat

Edit: Yes I know the draglink doesn't get 3" too short with 3" of lift, but it's easier to explain with big round numbers than with trig.

I agree with the above, namely z-links don't change bump steer at all, they do help with ball joint life and clearing suspensions parts. There is a real down-side to them too, and that is that they tend to bend a lot easier than a straight drag link. Therefore they need to be very beefy by comparison. As mentioned, a drop pitman arm does help bumpsteer, but it also incerases the tortional stress on the frame and steering box. IMHO, the best solution to bump steer is cross-over steering.

A zlink is much better than bending the ends on a stock drag link, obviously crossover is the way to go, we all know that. Therefore it is safe to say that as opposed to using a stock, bent draglink... yes, it helps. :flipoff2:

A Z-Link does nothing but get you out and onto the road.

Once there, you will wish you had something else. You see them used daily on large trucks with power steering systems that can take the bump steer. Not so for a smaller vehicle.

I replaced mine with a home made high steer as soon as I found the parts. Zuk to Toyota parts.

Originally posted by LoneZuk
A Z-Link does nothing but get you out and onto the road.


I'll say it again, zlink is much better than usin a stock, bent draglink. For those who cant afford to dump $400 on a crossover kit, a zlink will let you out to play, we all know it sux but thats life.