Would any of you happen to know if anybody else than calmini makes slip yoke eliminators for TX-10's? Know of anybody that might have one they don't need anymore due to putting in a different t-case?

calmini is the only manufacture i know making them , you could get a custom one made but your looking at the same price pretty much

I saw someone take the slip end of a drive shaft, drill a hole through the center and counter bore a flat on it to make a "home made SYE." Can only run single U-joint with that setup, not a CV, but the angles on Nissans don't tend to be too bad.

unfortunately, calmini is the only maker.

i wish i had known a little more about these tcases before i bought the gears for them. i would have just spent a little more and got a two speed atlas.

Why do you say that? The TX10 is not the greatest case out there, but but upgrading it seems a whole lot cheaper and easier than trying to shoe horn an Atlas in there?

But, with an Atlas you get front dig, which is a huge upgrade. Sure, you could do a dana 300, but then to upgrade that to about the same strength as an atlas will cost you the same as an atlas.

That being said, when I do my t-case stuff, I'm probably gonna do a tx-10 range box to a d300, and even then, I'm gonna have a hard time paying for that doubler kit.:laughing:

Why do you say that? The TX10 is not the greatest case out there, but but upgrading it seems a whole lot cheaper and easier than trying to shoe horn an Atlas in there?

my tx10 has been great, the rear seals aren't the greatest, but i've been running it with the ac gears for almost three years now with no problems.

part of the reason why i would enjoy an atlas is the slip yoke eliminator. if the rear drives haft gets destroyed, i can get dragged (or winch myself) off the trail and drive home in front wheel drive. plus, the strength and reduction is more then a tx10 with $1k gears in it. all i'm saying is that with the benefit of hindsight, i probably would have gone a different route.

as far as fitting it in, you already have to modify the cross member, holding it in to accommodate drive shaft droop, so building a custom mount isn't too much more trouble.

i dont think he is talking about the cross member , i think his talking about having to cut up the floor to fit it

i know revans2003 and t-ray both have the atlas but said it almost wasnt worth the hassle and cost of getting it to fit

i think they said overall they had to spend close to 4-5k for the atlas and everything to get it to work

i see. i wouldn't mind the cutting for the benefits, but that probably depends on your attitude with keeping the factory interior.

i wonder if it would be possible to run it divorced with a 2wd tranny and run similar length driveshafts so one spare shaft could be carried.

Penski hit on what I was trying to spit out. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have an Atlas or Stak, but we don't have the luxury of having bolt on kits for every imaginable aftermarket combo. I think it is great that we have the technology to overcome that, but sometimes we have to be honest with the costs of having something non jeep. At this time I feel I am still at a level that does not push past the limits of a modified TX10. One day maybe, but until then, I am having plenty of fun the way my truck sits. I'm betting you guys have had plenty of good times with your rigs as well. I'm pretty carefull on choosing what mods I do these days because I've watched plenty of people go to the next level and although having bad @$$ rigs, they don't have as much fun because they have to find near impossable obstacles to test thier limits. :)

ive been happy with the t-case although a little disappointed in the fact that my 2nd gen in 4lo(stock) feels the same as the 1st gen with the calmini crawler gears but the crawler gears made a world of difference on the 4lo compared to stock

one thing that i recommend is to buy an older t-case with the wider chain and putting the crawler gears in that and doin the SYE while the output shaft is out of the t-case

That is my plan, all at once. I already have a SYE that has been collecting dust for over 5 years now. Lucky for me, I have a 99 and the narrow chain did not start until 01 or so.

IMO its worth it to do a doubler kit, then pick up a D300 so that you can gain front digs. I would rather do that then dump money into the tx-10, but then again, thats my opinion:laughing:

If I were competing, I may be swayed to want the same thing. But at a $1000+ price tag for just the doubler, I don't think I need to do front digs that badly. Sure the cool factor would be nice, but I can only think of a couple of times where a front dig would have made life easer, but I was able to overcome without it. If I ever do a V8 swap, I'll see if the option is there cheaper, but that is about the only way for me to go down that road.

True. Around here front dig in nice because the trails are so tight

the 2:1 tcase gearing runs out pretty quick. its about the same price to do the 4:1. as it is to do the doubler kit and a D300. (about $1000) D300 is 2.6:1 so its basically a 5:1 for the same price. so the extra cost is basically drive shafts......

There is one more option I've been looking at. It's an underdrive made by Northwest Fab. The blackbox-i. It sits between the tranny and the transfercase. The blackbox is $1600 and the adapter 6 or 7 hundred. It would add 2.76 to your low range. I think this will replace the empty spot between the tranny and the transfercase. If that is the case only a small change to the transfercase mount should be needed. It's the same unit that turns the Atlas into a 4-speed.

if you make a doulber out of the nissan case, that had a SYE in it.. and put a d300 behind it, you can re-use the rear drive shaft.

this is due to the very long output shaft of the TX10.

i was suprised, but didn'thave any issues.

.... i think his talking about having to cut up the floor to fit it ...

who had to cut the floor to make an atlas fit?

T-ray and revans2003

Are there pics anywhere?
I'd like to see what they had to cut. I didn't have to cut the floor on the WD21.