I looked all through the search engine and couldn't find any info. So I am asking in here. I am going to be running a D300 behind a 700R4 and was wondering how far I might be able to clock the D300? I would like to try and get it so I can run a flat skid plate,trimming the tub is no big deal,but will the front driveshaft hit the transmission?
Thanks for any help.

I don't think its possible. The 700 has a huge pan. If i am wrong please, someone tell me.:confused:

I have that setup and tried to do that, it's not possible, the front output on the 300 is not far enough from the center to clear the 700R4, you will also need a small diameter driveshaft as it ends up right next to the pan, under the pan bolts.

Originally posted by ZestyCJ7
I looked all through the search engine and couldn't find any info. So I am asking in here. I am going to be running a D300 behind a 700R4 and was wondering how far I might be able to clock the D300? I would like to try and get it so I can run a flat skid plate,trimming the tub is no big deal,but will the front driveshaft hit the transmission?
Thanks for any help.
ZestyCJ7, welcome to the club. New you'd be over here someday.

Try giving Mike Knorr a PM, I think he still runs a 700R4 and Dana 300. or at least he did. If anyone has figured this out I'd bet he did.

Originally posted by Mr.N

ZestyCJ7, welcome to the club. New you'd be over here someday.

Try giving Mike Knorr a PM, I think he still runs a 700R4 and Dana 300. or at least he did. If anyone has figured this out I'd bet he did.

His is at a crappy angle, plus he uses a small diameter shaft up front. All he did is use a Novak adaptor and bolt it up.

I have a D300 behind a 700r4.

I used a Rube adapter and I ended up clocking the D300 down to get the front shaft to fit under the tranny pan lip (bolts) as mentioned above. I'm also using a small diameter shaft.

I clocked mine by drilling into the adapter.

One solution to get the D300 clocked back up higher is to use a 2 piece front driveshaft. I have to look again and see if it will work or not.

I've got a few customers who've done it- and yes it is tight.

I made the first clocking kits for the 300 (not all adapters can be redrilled) and have 3 or so of these installations running around.

The one I've seen used a smaller shaft that ran right beside the pan with the t-case rotated up near horizontal- 4.25 up measuring form the case to ground.

A lot depends on the front axle- some people narrow an axle by taking length only out of the long side- this moves the yoke towards the center of the rig and kills driveshaft clearance. Every rig is different, it's not hard to mock up and see if it will work. Absolute worst case can be solved with a two piece drive shaft to bend around the tranny.

My own Jeep uses a 2" shaft running beside the huge hump in my 727based 46RH- pretty sue this is even wider than the 700R4.

I'll give a full refund to anyone who buys my kit and later decides he is unable or unwilling to make it work. Only had one come back- tried telling this guy the project was over his head before he ever ordered it- sometimes you can just tell...

Good luck
Ken Blume
479 636 4669

I am running this set up in my cherokee. Yes I switched the front axle. I am using a Novak adapter that they drilled the clocking holes (Flat) in for no extra charge. Mine worked out slick. If worse comes to worse offset your motor torwards the driver side lining up your F. driveline better with your diff. The Novak adapter measures 3.5" spacing your t-case off the tranny allowing for more room. With this set up the only thing below your rails would be your axles and suspension. Thats the way to go.

I am in the process of doing mine right now. From what I can tell so far it is going to work. Tight yes.
What I am running is a full width Chev frontend, and motor, tranny, and t-case offset to driver's side to give just that little more room for everything

Dean

Hey Go2guy,what adapters do you make, and how much are they?

For my front axle,I am running a 82 1/2 ton Dodge D44. I cut the long side tube down 3" and am running a long side shaft from a full size Chreokee. I outboard mounted my spring hangers on the frame to get the axle centerd. I am now 65" wms to wms. I will check and see if the front yoke is closer to the outside than the stock axle is(hope it is now).
I was running a TF727 and had a ton of room between my tranny and front driveshaft,with the t-case in the stock location.
Thanks for all the info.

I make clocking rings for twisting 300's, 231's, 241's etc up for increased belly clearance.

While the concept was hardly new, people had been rewelding/maching, drilling thier own adapters for years and the Atlas had such a feature- I was the first to design and market a bolt on ring for existing transfer cases to be moved without all the labor involved with other methods. i was forced to do it for my own Jeep becasue my tranny and many others simply don't have room for moving the bolt holes around. The rings are easy to use/install, are adjustable and can be reused if you change drivetrain etc.

My prices are very competitive with the few who are also marketing my design (that's life:( ) and extremely competitive when compare to Advance's kit. PM me for a quote, trying to stay politically correct on the board.:D

"One solution to get the D300 clocked back up higher is to use a 2 piece front driveshaft. I have to look again and see if it will work or not."
====

Does anyone have picture of a 2 peice set-up. I heard of them, never seen one.


Loafer409

Well I got my t-case clocked real flat,infact it might be just a tad higher than flat. I got the Novac adapter for the D-300 to the 700R4. I have about 1" between the front driveshaft and the tranny pan. I flexed the front and the DS clears real nice. It's good to run full width up front........:D

Searching does work !!

anyone who is running this have a picture ?

I've looked at the at the various adapters some shorter than others. Looking at the JB conversions super short setup. He's been helpful but im intereted to see whos running it and what it looks like in real life. In particular the pan mods youve done if any..

I'm laying my parts out on the garage floor and just can't see how if the d300 is clocked flat AND pulled in that close it can clear the tranny edge no less the pan...

Any help appreciated

-mike

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=196225&highlight=two+piece+driveshaft

The Dana 300 can be clocked behind the 350 or 700. How easy it is depends on the location of your diff yoke (as mentioned above) and a whole bunch of other stuff. Fabricating a slant in the oil pan helps a bunch. The height of the pan bolt heads compared to the location of the front driveshaft (under full compression) is another area to watch, driveshaft diameter and wall thickness in another. Engine offet (if any) has an effect also. There is much more to it than the above. The guys who usually have the most trouble with this are the ones that don't understand how to "build" their entire suspension and drivetrain as a "system". It all has to work together ; and it can if you set it up correctly and use the right combination of parts.

john - ya we went over this in email and i full understand the physical end what might be required to make it fit and work. I have zero issues slicing the pan, and running a small diameter shaft. Your web site shows good pics of the unit, I'd just like to see it in a rig with all things in place. And definitly not to cast any negative on your stuff, i'd just like some non- vendor input and opinions...

I do understand engine placement, tip/tilt etc can all play in. I have a clean sheet as im just starting to assemble my YJ project. (full width 60) So id rather not assume i need to make all those adjustments at the same time if i don't.

It sounds like cutting the pan is the easiest way to ensure sucess ?

Thanks Off to read the 2 piece ds thread
-mike

Two chunk shaft is the way to go.

I am thinking about switching my NV4500 for either a 700r4 or a TH350...

I want to keep my 300 clocked behind it.

Unfortunately I used the MORE YJ motor mounts to put my 350TBI in... they offset the engine 1" to the passenger side (to accomodate the stock driver's drop on the stock YJ). I also am running an uncut passenger drop Chevy front 60.

I have a fat (2.5" square) front DS that easily clears the 4500 now.

If I run one of the short adapters (JB or AA...I think the Novak one is a bit longer isn't it?) am I fawked? Do you think it probably won't clear?

I'd love to see some more pics too.

thanks

Here is a photo of a rotated Dana 300 behind a TH350. Not too different than a TH700R4 setup. As you can see there is room for the driveshaft.

The pan on the 700r4 is really wide on the passenger side. There is less room with a 700r4 / 300 combo. I run a driver side drop case behind my 700r4 to avoid all the driveshaft bs. It may be possible, but is anything but ideal to run a standard 300 behind a 700r4.

The best way to do it would be to run a front shaft with a carrier bearing. I looked at doing it with mine and couldn't do it with a one piece shaft. My motor is offset to the drivers side and my Dana 60 is as close to the leaf spring as the pumpkin will allow. But with a 2" shaft I run up front it wouldn't clear. If I went back to a smaller shaft up front it might clear but it didn't look like it.

So instead I just remounted everything at slightly different angles and the t-case skid plate only hangs down about 1- 2" below the frame rails. Hasn't been an issue since then so I haven't messed with it.

Just to clarify. With the Novak adapter, the 300 can be clocked up to about 10 degrees before there are any front driveline clearance issues. I am clarifying the 700R set up, not the TH350 like Lomax was talking about. The TH350 can be clocked up flat thanks the the extra clearance on the tranny pan. The 700R pan doesn't give you this option. They are quite different! Majority of the rigs at Novak are running the 700R/300 combo with clocking patterns in them.

I just got JBs 2" + clocking ring kit.... Kit looks real nice. I'll snap a few pics as i get this thing going and make notes of what i need to do with my set up to make it all work...

Originally posted by yager
I just got JBs 2" + clocking ring kit.... Kit looks real nice. I'll snap a few pics as i get this thing going and make notes of what i need to do with my set up to make it all work...

me too :D

Not to dig this up, but will go2guys clocking ring work with the atlas? I like how the go2guy clocking ring is only 5/16 inch think which is nice for maintaining proper spline contact within the input/output shafts.

I need to rotate my atlas further up, and I am already on the top most hole provided by the atlas. I need one more hole to get the t-case mounted flat.

Originally posted by gipper


me too :D


And 1pc ain't gonna work. Two piece shaft is the only way it's going to happen. I have a full width 44 front from a 78 chevy truck. My motor is offset and the front accessory bracket is clearanced to wrap around the steering shaft. I have it clocked slightly above flat so that I can go over the pan and then 2 pc it down to the front. That's the only way this is going to happen.

Originally posted by gipper



And 1pc ain't gonna work. Two piece shaft is the only way it's going to happen .........

maybe for you setup..... i laid my whole drive train out this past weekend and mine is gonna work just right....

Originally posted by rock-rod
Not to dig this up, but will go2guys clocking ring work with the atlas? I like how the go2guy clocking ring is only 5/16 inch think which is nice for maintaining proper spline contact within the input/output shafts.

I need to rotate my atlas further up, and I am already on the top most hole provided by the atlas. I need one more hole to get the t-case mounted flat.

I've sold several for use with the Atlas, it can be done and if you're not satisfied I'll gladly refund you less shipping.

The front shaft can work with a one piece, I've seen it in person. That said, I prefer a two piece, don't understand what all the fuss is about, it's better protected that way anyway.

Originally posted by yager


maybe for you setup..... i laid my whole drive train out this past weekend and mine is gonna work just right....


And you're clocked flat w/ a 300? I just can't imagine this, not that I'm questioning you, but what size shaft, how much offset, did you trim the pan, pics?

Hey Go2Guy, where in the world do you come up with a 2pc shaft though? I know what they are, how they work....... but where do you actually get one for these applications? Anybody have any ideas on costs?

Call Tom Woods, tell him I sent you (Ken Blume) 877 497 4238.

he usually takes a day or two to custom make what you want and get it shipped. prices are very good, top quality.

Originally posted by Go2Guy


I've sold several for use with the Atlas, it can be done and if you're not satisfied I'll gladly refund you less shipping.



Thanks, I will be giving you a call in the not to distant future:D

So anyone with pics showing a one piece clearing with the motor offset to the drivers side and a full width axle?

sorry pic is crappy. Thats a 2" DS in the pics.

You can see where I trimed the pan rail back on most of that side. I wasnt sure where things were gonna sit till i got the axle in last week. I used the hand grinder and cut the pan edge back to the case, it took off ~1/8" or so... I hit it quick w/ the pan still on. I need to grind that side all off... but it shows how much i cut..

Mine will clear super that with it clocked in the 3rd spot (JB conversion kit) with the t-case mostly level. That spot pushs the output the furthest away.

IMHO, the difference is that I (and others) are running FULL WIDTH D60 the offset of the pinion/input makes things fit with less effort than a narrow axle. If your pinion is centered more you will have to grind a bit more on the tranny pan rail. There is alot of room to clean that area up if needed. Or run a smaller 1.5" shaft...

-mike

I'm assuming that the bulk of this thread would apply to clocking a 241 (still looking for a decent deal on a D300)? I'd like to get my junk going in the next couple of months and will probably just surrender to the 241 for now ($$$ will be going other places like SRW hubs, drivelines and general engine management junk). I looks like the D300 and 241 would interchange pretty nicely when I dig one up.

Ken, I've talked to you before about a clocking ring (I think once at a UROC event last year (2003) and through a PM or e-mail). It sounded like this should work pretty well.

I make 3 rings, one for pass side (normal 300, 208's etc), one for a flipped 300, and one for normal driver' side cases to get them up flatter. Let me know and I'll do my best to help.

This is about as flat as I could go with Ken's ring on my Atlas with a 2" body lift. I even sliced into the tub some to get it up as far as possible. I still cant do a flat skid thats even with the bottom of the frame. Damn 4500 hangs down too low.


http://midwestjeepthing.com/jeep/member/images/Bushwhacker/tcase.jpg

Yager, I run a GM full width D60 front so I "should be the same as you. I think I will be happy enough with a 2" drive shaft with a thick enough wall. How mch did you offest your motor?

resurrected!
i saw this thread when i was thinking about what i was gonna do. i did it and a one piece 1.75" shaft with a 1310 cv joint. i clearanced the pan a little with a bfh and it clears, but its close. its in a scout with the drivetrain as high as i could get it and the tcase clocked down 10 degrees with a AA adapter. just thought id share this for posterity.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4594&stc=1

Yager, I run a GM full width D60 front so I "should be the same as you. I think I will be happy enough with a 2" drive shaft with a thick enough wall. How mch did you offest your motor?

good thing somone dug this up...

Drive line is not offset, centered up, has a 5 deg down tilt, and drive line is rotated 3deg to passanger side. It will be close but not bad, and if it is ill run a 1 3/4" shaft

I hope to have a front shaft in and some pics in the next few weeks...

-mike

You could have used a 700r4 4x4 standard adapter. You will only have to drill one hole different. All the other line up nicely. I think I measured it at about 10 degrees down.

Funny this got brought back up. I'm running a 700r4 mated via a Novak adapter to a 300. I am thinking of clocking it, and it looks like I've got room. However, when I installed my engine/ tranny I shifted it 1.75" to the drivers side. At the time, I just knew the engines were offset in stock CJ's so that's how I did it...glad I did that now.

yager,
are you putting a skid plate over that parking brake rotor? looks like its itching to get bent.

uhhhh, ya ill probably add a skid. Ill probably remove the duck tape and 1" square tube extention on the front shaft as well as finishing bolting the tranny and t-case together...

the angle makes it look like it hangs low but its about the frame line... but yes it will have a guard..

Funny this got brought back up. I'm running a 700r4 mated via a Novak adapter to a 300. I am thinking of clocking it, and it looks like I've got room. However, when I installed my engine/ tranny I shifted it 1.75" to the drivers side. At the time, I just knew the engines were offset in stock CJ's so that's how I did it...glad I did that now.

I've got the exact same setup, and I'm working on the front shaft currently. I'll try and get some pics tonight or this weekend to show how it turns out.

Question for the gurus: When running a two-piece shaft, the pinion and jackshaft angles should be as close to the same as possible right? Then for the secondary (kinda the main) shaft, do you use a CV, or just a standard shaft?

for a 2 piece front it's not really going to matter because the speeds are slow.

for a 2 piece front it's not really going to matter because the speeds are slow.

Actually you gotta build the front a bit different since the shaft is so short, and you get a pretty severe DS angle.

Okay, just got mine done this past weekend. Went the two piece route, and used 1" solid round bar for the jackshaft. Used a 1310 (I know, I know) CV from a Cherokee front end. Once I revised my mounting method, I have no bind issues in the front end. Also, I was able to make my front & rear shafts the same length, so they are interchangeable. I have about $50 in the project, including rear shaft, rear yoke for transfer case, front jack shaft yokes, and front CV shaft.

Link to Post on CO4x4 with pics (http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=21422)

Lomax what are the specs on the shaft in the picture that you posted

arndog

lomax just trying to bring it to the top in case you missed it

arndog

Which specs do you mean?

what size ujoints ... any special yoke needed at transfercase ... what size tubing ... how much slip

arndog

http://www.jbconversions.com/images/products/adapters/1001/driveshaft2.jpg
http://www.jbconversions.com/images/products/adapters/1007/driveshaft1.jpg
http://www.jbconversions.com/images/products/adapters/1007/driveshaft2.jpg

These photos show a 700R4/Dana300 using our 3/4" adapter and Rotation plate and also our 2" adapter and rotation plate. If the photos don't post I'll try again.

wow very nice pictures. It looks like a standard yoke and 1310 ujoint at that transfer case end. also looks like a 1.25 or 1.5 inch shaft.

thanks

arndog