Hey,
The old lump is out, now to clean everything up and finish building the new motor. Should go fast. Till I get to making the new floor . . .
-Regards
-Ike

http://members.aol.com/lemurstew/motorremoval.jpg

Congrats. That old 6cyl will look nice in the garage under the old fan hanging on the wall. Also looks like a Costco engine hoist, got one myself. :D

-Jeff

Whats the core charge on the old cummins? :)

What new floor? :confused:

BTW That email address you sent me bouced do you have other contact info for that guy?

Ron

Ron,
There was no core charge because the motor is new and not rebuilt. As for the floor, Im planning to fabricate a new floor, transmission tunnel and tunnel cover from .1 in aluminum sheet as the old setup wasn't to my liking. I emailed you with the 80 inch info.
-Regards
-Ike

Thanks Ike,

I am impressed that you were able to get the pig out without lifting the bulkhead. It looked really tight.

I bet you can save the old cummins. Definately worth a shot before you send it off.

Still trying to get the 1.6 to turn. Think I am going to pull the head and see before I up the force level.

Ron

Originally posted by Leafsprung
Ron,
As for the floor, Im planning to fabricate a new floor, transmission tunnel and tunnel cover from .1 in aluminum sheet as the old setup wasn't to my liking. I emailed you with the 80 inch info.
-Regards
-Ike

Rivets and sealant, or welded?

I like the rivets or twist fasteners for access.

j

Red,
Im going to use the factory style fasteners (cad plated, slotted, pan head, 1/4 inch sheet metal screws and clips. The floor will be different than factory, but I want it to look factory(ish). To seal it Im going to use rubber strips instead of mastic for cleaner removal in the future. Will post pics as I go.
-Ike

Originally posted by Leafsprung
Red,
Im going to use the factory style fasteners (cad plated, slotted, pan head, 1/4 inch sheet metal screws and clips. The floor will be different than factory, but I want it to look factory(ish). To seal it Im going to use rubber strips instead of mastic for cleaner removal in the future. Will post pics as I go.
-Ike

Ike, don't do it!!!!

I tried to do the same thing. Factory hardware, kinda stockish looking. Doesn't attract too much attention from non-rover people.

http://riverport.org/JL/P0003627.JPG

(BAD PIC)

I used the factory hardware and I was really dissapointed. It was pretty cheap and very fragile, the little captive nuts bent easily and stripped out. I would recommend using better quality captive nuts. Looks nice though. Only real rover freaks notice the details!

The tranny enclosure is 1/8" al plate with closed cell foam contact cemented on to the back of the panels. It is made so you can remove the top panel in about 30 seconds. A lot easier to get to the tranny, and less noise.

Ike, I have been following your progress with the engine like a hawk. Where did you get the new cummins? I'm really thinking about doing the same thing next year. As you probably realize, most of the mods are already done (bulkhead, tranny, breakfast, etc) because I've already got an american 6 under the hood, with the right gears, power steering, etc.

What blew in your old engine? Any idea on why? Any recommendations for a source for this engine used?

thanks

J-L

Ike,

You should check out what we've done on the crewcab with the flat floor and the seatbox/seat frame thing. It's pretty trick.

It's in a thread called 'pics of my cool shiat'.

Originally posted by Serious One
Ike,

You should check out what we've done on the crewcab with the flat floor and the seatbox/seat frame thing. It's pretty trick.

It's in a thread called 'pics of my cool shiat'.

Just a concern here...

From what I read on that thread, the floor and seatbox is one piece.

What happens when you need to work on it?

Do you have any access panels?

Just wondering.

J-L

JL,
Im still planning to do the factory(ish) style floor, my tranny tunnel will be much closer to stock height and width than yours. It may not attract attention from non rover guys, or even rover guys, but thats kinda the idea I guess. Im even going to make a factory style tunnel cover from some black hardura I have; should be . . . .understated :D :D The idea is basicly a truck that looks indestinguishable from a factory model but has marginally better performance and durability (read: kicks butt) I thought about putting 37s or 38s on it because of the beefy drivetrain but (and this might seem familiar to you) I didnt want to fool with welding different shock mounts and spring mounts for longer springs on a galvanized frame and ruin that nice coating to get the articulation I wanted for a true performance oriented trail rig. So Ive decided to do as many subtle performance enhancements as I can to make it a really nice daily driver and competent trail rig and still remain very stock looking (it bugs those coiler guys more anyway when they think a stock series just spanked their shiney junk :flipoff2: ). Enter the 109 wagon I have been driving while the diesel is down. Its frame is not galvanized and I have been looking at it as a blank canvas to build something a little more extreme . . . but thats another story for another day. Anyway, thats the plan. As for my old motor, the #4 cylinder is scored. I was planning on a new motor anyway, and this gave me the kick in the ass I needed to do it. If you are considering doing a cummins I can point you in the right direction for a reasonable price on a used motor, just drop me an email or PM.

Mike,
I saw the pics of the floor in the crew cab, it looks VERY slick, That extra space will be nice for stowing gear etc. Ive got so little room in my 88 as it is though, and I donno where Id stick the gas tank and the batteries . . . .helps to have an extra 30 ft in the wheelbase:D :D to fool around with.

Regards
-Ike

Originally posted by Leafsprung
(it bugs those coiler guys more anyway when they think a stock series just spanked their shiney junk :flipoff2: ).

hahahaha I like it.

As long as they don't actually hear me that has been the response I get. Had a chance to pass a 90 and Rangie going over Snoqualmie Pass on I 90 recently. Just looked over, smiled, waved, and sped up.

Ike,
I am new here so may have missed this, but where did you get the new engine from?
There are a couple people in the Seattle area looking into cummins.
Thinking about one for the Aloha II.

Pete

Originally posted by HandBuilt


Just a concern here...

From what I read on that thread, the floor and seatbox is one piece.

What happens when you need to work on it?

Do you have any access panels?

Just wondering.

J-L

Hey Handbuilt,

The floor is comprised of three sections, the rear section goes from the center of the T-frame back to the rear bulkhead and spans the entire width of the cab. There are two seperate, and nearly symmetrical pieces that go forward in a straight line from the centerline of the T-frames forward to the front bulkhead, flush with the outer rail of the T-frame, and in towards the transmission leaving about 1 inch of clearance. There is a sub-frame below the floorboards. I actually used stainless buttonhead allen bolts because I too hate the factory slotted screws. What a PITA they are to tighten and loosen over time.

The tunnelcover and seatbase frames are one piece. The frames bolt to the B-pillar of the T-frame and go inward toward the tunnel cover. To access the top of the tranny, the seatframe, seats and tunnel cover could (if you had some help) come out as one piece.

Depending on the work you needed to do to the tranny, it might be easier to drop it out the bottom. One advantage of the divorce-mounted t-case.

Anyway, I didn't want to turn this into a thread about me, but thanks for your interest.

Now....tell me about that brown 110.....:)

Hey guys, thought this might interest those looking for a 6AT or even a 4BT.

Hi Bill,
Yes we can furnish a complete new engine, however we are 6-8 weeks sold
ahead at present & we only sell to folks that put up a substantial deposit
to get in line for what ever they order, we have to do that in order to keep
track of all the inventory we have to deal with it seems. We sell both new
& rebuilt & prices start at about 2750 for a good used unit with a rebuilt
pump & good turbo & the new ones start about 1500 more & dependiong on what
you want on it can go up a good bit from there. Do you have an existing
6AT??? Where are you located, we are in Granbury, Tx (just west of Ft
Worth).
When you feel ready to place an order, kindly call with a credit card number
(I'd rather that you didn't put it on an e-mail).
Thanks . . . John
New website: CumminsStuff.com, new e-mail: John @ CumminsStuff.com

Thats it,

Billster

What motor are you swapping?

Originally posted by rover4x4
What motor are you swapping?

Oh, for Chris sakes. SEARCH!

j