there was recently a post that showed some people sliding smaller OD DOM inside their sliders tube to improve strength. i guess this instead of just buying thicker wall DOM since either their bender could not do teh thicker wall or they already had plenty of 0.120 laying around. i searched and cannot find teh thread. my truck is at 4740 lbs now and will get heavier as i do some things. who had sleeved their sliders with another piece of tube, and how well has it worked. also, is this just ridiculous overkill? i am looking at 2" under the seams and 1.75" on teh outer bar. thanks.

...what the hell are you talking about?

you take a 2" 0.120 wall piece of DOM for your main bar on your slider. now, you slide a piece of 1.75" 0.120 wall inside it. weld the two together at the end. it has been done. any more confusion? :flipoff2:

use some sch. 80 pipe for sliderz

It can be done. My upper links in the rear are made that way because I didn't want to waste my .250 wall for the uppers. However, if you put 2"x.120 and 1.75"x.120 together and then try to bend them, you're still bending .250 wall material. Also, if you bend the 2" you can't just slide 1.75" inside it even if it's bent the same way. It just won't work like that.

Originally posted by Curtis
It can be done. My upper links in the rear are made that way because I didn't want to waste my .250 wall for the uppers. However, if you put 2"x.120 and 1.75"x.120 together and then try to bend them, you're still bending .250 wall material. Also, if you bend the 2" you can't just slide 1.75" inside it even if it's bent the same way. It just won't work like that.

yes, i know what you are talking about. i am not trying to do that. i meant for the straight shot under the door seam. no bending. i guess i should not have said anything about bending in the first post. is .250 wall more than twice as much as 0.120 wall?

Originally posted by Wheelr
use some sch. 80 pipe for sliderz

2" SCH 80 is only 0.218 wall, so why bother with that over .250 DOM?

Originally posted by surlynkid


yes, i know what you are talking about. i am not trying to do that. i meant for the straight shot under the door seam. no bending. i guess i should not have said anything about bending in the first post. is .250 wall more than twice as much as 0.120 wall?

I paid $5.95 a foot for the 2"x.250 wall and under $2 a foot for the 2"x.120 and 1.75"x.120. So, yes it is less for the two pieces. Just be sure to drill through the outter 2" and use some plug welds to hold it all together.

Here's the place I bought most of my stuff. I believe they ship.


http://www.allmetalssupply.com/

I just went to 1.875 x .188 wall DOM for my nerf bars and really like it. I dented and bent the heck out of my 2x.120 HREW nerfs and these have held up a lot better. I think you're on the right track with using thicker wall tube, I don't know that you need a full .250 wall, but if it's what you have I guess that counts for something.

Because a stick of 2 inch pipe Sch 80 is 38 bucks. How much for 22 feet of .250 DOM? Plus the impact resistance of the Pipe is better.

You do the math.

Originally posted by surlynkid
you take a 2" 0.120 wall piece of DOM for your main bar on your slider. now, you slide a piece of 1.75" 0.120 wall inside it. weld the two together at the end. it has been done. any more confusion? :flipoff2:

ok.. 2.00 x .120 outside of 1.75 x .120 leaves a .130 gap in between the two pipes...

so I'd assume that it would be weaker than 2.0 x .250 wall because the first tube is going to dent .130 inch before it hits the 2nd peice of pipe.

and besides.. WTF is the point of only making the piece under the doors thicker?????

Originally posted by sceep
ok.. 2.00 x .120 outside of 1.75 x .120 leaves a .130 gap in between the two pipes...

Uhh... 2" OD, 0.120 wall, leaves a 1.76" ID. 1.75" OD into that leaves a clearance of 0.010 diameter... where'd 0.130 come from? Got one tube measured inside and one measured outside?

If you don't have to bend it, and do need it thicker wall, this is a way to get there. Works fine, and it's a whole lot easier/cheaper than buying large quantities of 0.250 wall to do the same thing.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


Uhh... 2" OD, 0.120 wall, leaves a 1.76" ID. 1.75" OD into that leaves a clearance of 0.010 diameter... where'd 0.130 come from? Got one tube measured inside and one measured outside?

If you don't have to bend it, and do need it thicker wall, this is a way to get there. Works fine, and it's a whole lot easier/cheaper than buying large quantities of 0.250 wall to do the same thing.

thanks scott. this is what i wanted to hear from someone that didn't need to go stand in the clue line.

Originally posted by sceep


ok.. 2.00 x .120 outside of 1.75 x .120 leaves a .130 gap in between the two pipes...

so I'd assume that it would be weaker than 2.0 x .250 wall because the first tube is going to dent .130 inch before it hits the 2nd peice of pipe.

and besides.. WTF is the point of only making the piece under the doors thicker?????

since you can't even do basic math, i will not even answer question #2.

There becomes a point where increasing wall thickness becomes associated with putting a bandaid on dogshit. OK? OD is where you are gonna see some more dramatic gains in strength.

Originally posted by PIG
There becomes a point where increasing wall thickness becomes associated with putting a bandaid on dogshit. OK? OD is where you are gonna see some more dramatic gains in strength.

Pig, you're talking structural strength on something that's actually engineered; Surlynkid is talking impact strength on something that is more or less just a beatin' stick.

All else being equal, more wall thickness = more resistance to denting. I think that's what he's getting at. Tube-in-a-tube has a similar effect.

Larger OD with the same wall thickness, in my experience (I don't remember enough engineering terminology to back this up with a technical explanation) will dent easier than smaller OD, again, all else being equal. Basically, nerfs made of 1.5" tube, won't dent as easily (but they will bend easier if simply overloaded between supports) as those made of 2" tube, again, all else being equal.

I personally wouldn't worry about adding wall thickness. My 1.5"x.120 rock sliders have held up just fine. The only time I managed to dent them was when the whole rig (5000lbs+) dropped off a four foot ledge and landed on one of them as I went over onto my side.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


Pig, you're talking structural strength on something that's actually engineered; Surlynkid is talking impact strength on something that is more or less just a beatin' stick.

All else being equal, more wall thickness = more resistance to denting. I think that's what he's getting at. Tube-in-a-tube has a similar effect.

Larger OD with the same wall thickness, in my experience (I don't remember enough engineering terminology to back this up with a technical explanation) will dent easier than smaller OD, again, all else being equal. Basically, nerfs made of 1.5" tube, won't dent as easily (but they will bend easier if simply overloaded between supports) as those made of 2" tube, again, all else being equal.

scott, i think you are an ME, and i am a ChE, so we'll just call it quits while are ahead. no sense wrestling pig(s) in the mud. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/biggrinflip.gif

the smaller tube is less likely to dent, because more of the load gets transferred to the side of the tube during impact. we are building my sliders this weekend, so i am trying to decide on a few things. this is on a T100 with a 2" BL.

My links and tie-rod are sleeved w/ rosette welds staggered every 6" or so...they seem real strong and shouldn't kink as easy if the outer tube gets crushed.

Originally posted by surlynkid


scott, i think you are an ME, and i am a ChE, so we'll just call it quits while are ahead. no sense wrestling pig(s) in the mud. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/biggrinflip.gif

the smaller tube is less likely to dent, because more of the load gets transferred to the side of the tube during impact. we are building my sliders this weekend, so i am trying to decide on a few things. this is on a T100 with a 2" BL.

Ha, nice pig pun. bending/denting=apples/oranges. I thought Scott was an IT major, I remeber reading that somewhere.

hey surly make the part that hits the rocks outta pipe, use tube for the rest.

Originally posted by PIG


Ha, nice pig pun. bending/denting=apples/oranges. I thought Scott was an IT major, I remeber reading that somewhere.

somebody told me mech engr.

heh.:emb2: that was pretty fawkin dumb of me eh.... long day yesterday. oh well...:flipoff2: