Ok, I've decided to go this route. I have the maxidrive halfshafts in my garage and am trying to assmeble a definitive list of things I need. Heres what I've got as far as the list is concerned.

2 early 110 cv's
23/24 halfshafts
2 maxidrive drive flanges
2 bushings
double lipped seal

My questions mainly lie in where I am sopposed to get the seals and bushings. Also, I am not quite straight on where and what the bushing is replacing. Also, I would love an explanation as the the install, regarding what to do to the hub, as it is currently a dry hub. Dont care about the ABS by the way, so please dont raise this concern. Thanks, all help is appreciated!

the part number for the CV you want is AEU 2522...
Get the seals and bushings at GBR...i think he wants 50 for seals and bushings(anyone know for sure?)
the bushing is replacing a bearing ...
Let me know how this set up goes...i will be swapping to it if i ever break the GBR CV's that should be here in a few weeks

Will Roeder

Josh,

I have a set of NEW LR 110 drive flanges if you need them.

Let me know.

You pull the needle bearing out of the spindle and put the brass bushing in it's place. Don't remember what I did about the oil seal, in fact I don't remember replacing it(my memory is not what it used to be now that I'm gettin' near 30:D )

Johnathan

bump!

I know you guys are more knowledgable on this! Larry?

I was under the impression that one of the advantages to this conversion was the removal of the stub axle oil seal allowing the bearings to be bathed in 90wt in common with the contents of the swivel ball. If this is the case, one wouldn't need the seal.

Paul

In doing this and converting to a wet hub, do you simply remove the grase from the beraings and put everything back together torqued to spec? Also, does anyone know if the maxidrive flanges are longer than the stock 110 flanges or will either work with the conversion?

Originally posted by untrakdrover
bump!

I know you guys are more knowledgable on this! Larry?

Sorry, I haven't been around much lately. Trying to make sure I keep employeed.

The parts list is correct. The double-lipped seal can be had from anywhere as I believe it is the Hub Seal from a Series. Inside of the stub axle there is a small bearing. You will need to press this out. I just took the part to the Dealer and they charge me about 1/2 hour labor. The bushing that replaces it is just that. A Bronze bushing that easily pushes into place with a vise from your garage. However, this is only available through GBR, who gets it from Maxi-Drive in Australia.

Once you are ready to put everything together it goes together like normal. However, make sure you have the right Drive Flanges. I have early D110 style drive flanges and they are not long enough. Meaning you will need a few spacers to keep the CV pulled tight against the stub axle. I would HIGHLY recommend getting GBR's D110 Drive Flanges for this instead of your standard early D110 flanges. His Drive flanges have a little bit longer Snout (don't know what to call it) where the axle threads through the drive flange. This way you will only need the normal amount of spacers.

Very easy upgrade, just make sure the CV doesn't have room to move around/flush with stub axle. I hope this is making sense. If not PM me and I will try and detail it further.

Thanks a lot Larry, I will most likely PM you when I get closer to the swap! I am currently trying to source the parts. Anyone know what price I should expect to pay for a 110 genuine cv?

I think Bill R. has mentioned it(part # and price) a few times, try a search.

As for removing the needle bearing in the stub, try a slide hammer or using a punch from the other side, that's how I got mine out and it takes a matter of 2-3 minutes(D90 not disco but don't think they are different). Auto Zone will let you borrow a slide hammer at no charge.

Johnathan

From what I have heard...the Genuine AEU 2522 is about 250ish @ mansifield

Will

I bought my D110 CV's from Bearmach in the UK. Genuine units and I think they were about 120 Pounds each. So that's around $180 each in US Dollars. Make sure you get Genuine though. You can buy cheap aftermarkets for less than $100 US anyday.

speaking of non-geniune bill what's the word on the non-genuine stuff that you ordered? Something like 80 bucks a pop or something of that effect. I know that you probably haven't done anything with them yet as your truck is still in Dallas but how did it compare just visiably (sp?) i'd be great to here your imput

-ben

Haven't gotten them yet, but I will report when they arrive (along with some picts as well).

Billster

I bought a pair of the less expensive CVs from Mansfield and they had the exact same markings as those we removed.

While I will readily admit that those we took out were wasted, and not for the 110, I suspect that those sold through Mansfield might well be made by the same manufacturer as those branded as L-R.

YMMV

Paul

well...the lowest I've been able to find is around 245 a piece. But Im still looking!

Were the CV's you replaced AEU 2522's (early 110 23 spline CV's)? Was there any part number or marking on them (the old one's you took out?)?

Billster

well josh...you must not be lookin very hard. :) I found them for 159.95 each at DAP. They said its a special order item from Bearmach.

Well, had you actually purseud the issue a bit further, you would find that these were AEU 2522R, the "R" being key in this case, meaning remanufactured. I have however been in contact with Mansfield who has committed to 290 pound to my door. Anyone deal with mansfield? Good vendor? I made quite clear that they had to be genuine parts in LR boxes.

You might try Ashcroft, as I bought some 2522's from them about 2 years ago for something like 175 pounds each.

Billster

It seems like I called Mansfield for my CV's. Don't remember exactly why I didn't buy there. It was either that their price was too high, they were on backorder or they wouldn't deliver to the US. Since they will deliver to the US it must be one of the other reasons.

Call Bearmach direct. If you order through DAP they will likely take their cut out of the deal. Bearmach will sell to you directly if you convince them to do that.

Just make sure they get your address right. Those Brits don't quite understand English as well as you would like them to....

Here is an email I got from Matt Savage over in the UK:

Dear Bill,
Thank for your e-mail. For the AEU2522 I can offer you two different types,
AEU2522 non genuine 79.90 inc vat
AEU2522 genuine 162.15 inc vat.
Please let me know if this is any good for you.
Very best regards,
Matthew Savage.


Remember, you can take VAT off of that price as well. This was in about Jan 02. www.mattsavage.com

Billster

Here is an email I got from Matt Savage over in the UK:
I sent a note off to savage, i'll let you know what he says!