heres a few of the winch mount I just got done with along with the stinger bar and some clevis mounts. Also threw up a new pic of the .500 wall tierod under the steering section.

http://www.extremevehicledesign.com/ProjectPita/projectpita.html

Look'in good Lee.

hey man, you never let me know if you got that thing I sent you. Let me know. I am figuring that you did since I didn't hear from you.

Originally posted by jeeper111
hey man, you never let me know if you got that thing I sent you. Let me know. I am figuring that you did since I didn't hear from you.

We are cool.

Looks pretty good. COuple questions though:
With that winch up so high are you going to be able to keep the 350 cool? And are you going to run some supports to the stinger or do you figure it's not gonna collapse if you wind up supported by it?

How long will the rear shaft be?

Lee what are you using for your links? ( below) I was told to use solid 4140. I am doing a 1/4 eliptical four link set up. is the sold over kill or is that what you used?

Thanks Dave

http://www.extremevehicledesign.com/ProjectPita/pics/500%20wall.jpg

No Im not worried about overheating the motor because I have a bad ass radiator. As far as the stinger is concerned I am going to bring supports foward from the frame. That is why it is still just primered.

The rear driveshaft will be about 18 inches.

your shit sux, my shit ROCKS!!

I'll call ya later, after I watch the video of todays wheeling ecstasy! I did a couple of the comp lines from the RCAA 2000 event, mmmm fun...

I used D.O.M. .500 wall 2 inch O.D. on mine and personally I think it was overkill but the kind of overkill that you like to have on your truck if you know what I mean. I think solid would be way overkill and alot of weight. It helps that it is down low but you do have to remember that half of that weight is sprung so about half of it is not good weight!!

just curious, and i may be out to lunch on this but it seems that your front uppers are in the radius fromat, now don't radius arms need a really soft bushing at one end of the upper and the lower in order to allow the movement , it seems like you have heims on both ends of the uppers, which will probably lead to the CA mounts being ripped off..... am i correct, or will a bushing on the lower fix this??? :confused:
i guess you have the rockwells so the axel tube twist is not a prob, but the CA brackets may not hold up.... or something will bind.

DUBZ, there's only 1 radius arm on each axle, therofore - no bindage...

ahhh, so it's like the rockkrawler setup then, thats why you can get away with just heims!

Looks cool, is your tie rod going to clear the pinion brakes?

CJ

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
DUBZ, there's only 1 radius arm on each axle, therofore - no bindage...

could you explain further what you are meening, when extreme flexing i don't see how this setup would't make the axle twist, or maybe i'm seeing the pics wrong

i'll explain more later Dubz, here is the site for now, look at the 5.5" or 7" components, you'll notice that there is only 3 control arms up front, of which the drivers side will be a radius setup, there is no twist on the axel tubes if only one side has the radius setup and there is only a lower control arm on the pass side.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/tjsystem.html

we have to do this with the front of mine!

Its not that the axle doesn't twist, its that all the twist is taken up by the side without the radius arm. The side with the radius arm doesn't twist at all or at least only what that lower bushing is willing to but there is no reason for it to because the other side has free movement. The only reason I used lower poly bushings is to dampen road vibration a little.

CJLagos, I couldn't tell if you were joking or not but if you weren't then you should check out some of the other pics because I am running brakes on the hub, not pinion brakes.

jeeper111, have you thought of relocating the lower arm to the bottom of the axel tube, i know that it'll take away about 2"s of clearance but it'll distribute some of the twisting force from acceleration that the upper radius arm sees, you'll only have to do it to the side that has the radius arm on it, but it'll allow the bracket to last alot longer since it'll distribute some force between both the upper and lower CA's.
:beer:

I thought of that but I dont think that the 1 inch hiems or that 500 wall are going to give any. Also that bracket on the top of the axle has nopt seen the last of my welder. I will be tieing the rear steer locking arm from that side into it and when that happens that bracket, that is already made out of 3/8 by 3 inch plate, will turn into a small fortress of gussets and steel plating. Considering all of that, I am not too worried about it. I mean were only talking 411 to 1 here, Come Awn!!!:rolleyes: (said extremely sarcastically to show rediculousness)

P.S. I am not sure that "rediculousness" is a word?!?

i believe the correct term is "rediculousocity":flipoff2:

:eek: ONLY 411:1 :eek:
:p

allright, i didn't see there was only the raidus setup on one side

Lee, what size heims are you running on you upper control arm? And how much force will be applied to the mount on the axle? I decided to dump my front heavy spring rate coils in favor of some new aero stars like the rear. I'm trying it out this weekend so well see how it works

marcus, sounds like your rig is finally coming together. too bad there no wheeling in SAN ANTONIO!!!! you need to make a road trip, dude...

Originally posted by oldjeep
Looks pretty good. COuple questions though:
With that winch up so high are you going to be able to keep the 350 cool? And are you going to run some supports to the stinger or do you figure it's not gonna collapse if you wind up supported by it?

if you flop or tip over that thing won't bend...


IMO if you roll hard enough to bend it you'll want it to bend, and disperse some energy....easier to retube a stinger than straighten frame.

if you constantly roll your junk, make a grill hoop/cage that will hold up (to bad driving ) :D

Wes, I'm going to have to wait until I can buy (all I can afford) an under powered tow rig in January. Till then Its the den and Cibilo Creek for me. And I have yet to make it to Mason (it open back up in Feb.) But I have to learn to wheel a different style without the sweet sweet travel of the IFS. I figure when Lee gets his junk back together (maybe June/July) we will make a trip out your way. I haven't pulled you out in a while I'm starting to have bad withdraw symptoms.

better get over that withdrawal, 'cause it ain't gonna ever happen again...

I think those coils are a great idea man. Did you do what we talked about on your front suspension? I think you should work to balance that truck as well as you can. I know you have been only flexy in the rear for a long time but once you get balanced you will never want to go back.

As far as getting done in june, thats some bullshit. I am shooting for december. I will be staying here all of thanksgiving break and doing nothing but working furiously to get it done. I should have the rear suspension done this weekend. There is really not much left to do on it.

As far as wheeling AZ, we will be out there probably on spring break. That is what we are all working toward with our trucks.