They are 2"x2" .25" square tube with a 1" rod gusset, all joints are 7018 except the ones really close to the RE cartidge joints at the axle. The squares were notched and bent and the bar is just welded to the inside of the tubes.

The application is an overweight 98 TJ (4500 lbs) with 2.5L and soon to be deep gears, (200:1 range capability) right now at 52:1.

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/drivetrain/axles/8.8's/axle_LCAs_truss_side.jpg

If they don't look stout enough to you, chop me up what you would do to them, I have no problems with cutting that rod off.

What do you think?

ummmm why go through all the work of chopping them up with a joint and then adding the gusset there? I'd just leave them straight...or if u r worried about bending run a flat bar alomg the top on end...drill some holes in it to make it fancy looking...

Originally posted by Pook
ummmm why go through all the work of chopping them up with a joint what are you gaining with the gusset there?

Well I guess the same goal of all gussets, strength. I don't really understand what you are saying...

There is one reason to put your LCA's with a bend in them. That is to gain clearance so they don't get hit all the time. By putting that big assed gusset in there you lose that advantage. Now you have a huge piece of shit moving around under your rear end taking up space.

-Jack

edited mine ....didn't make sense to me either....

Originally posted by IronBenderII
There is one reason to put your LCA's with a bend in them. That is to gain clearance so they don't get hit all the time. By putting that big assed gusset in there you lose that advantage. Now you have a huge piece of shit moving around under your rear end taking up space.

-Jack

thats what i was saying...

What he is saying is why did you make the bend in the main control arm? Was it for clearance? Because the gusset negates any clearance you gained from the bent LCA. Why didn't you do something like this...

Originally posted by IronBenderII
There is one reason to put your LCA's with a bend in them. That is to gain clearance so they don't get hit all the time. By putting that big assed gusset in there you lose that advantage. Now you have a huge piece of shit moving around under your rear end taking up space.

-Jack

Okay there guy pretty well thought out... Why don't you visualize a 36" tire on there...

Now tell me how much of that gusset is available for rock impact?

Oh yeah and why don't you post pics of your arms, ya done with them yet? :flipoff2:

Okay I will chop something so you guys can see it.

Seriously, the bend doesnt effect any of the geometry and with the rod gusset its the same as having flat arms.

My wife has 36" tires on her honda. That won't help you out.

What I'm saying is you would be better off with just a straight link than with what you have. I like the boxed steel and I think it will be plenty strong. But what you have just doesn't make sense.

BTW, I haven't started on mine yet. I haven't decided what material I'm going to use yet.

-Jack

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK


Oh yeah and why don't you post pics of your arms, ya done with them yet? :flipoff2:

Was this aimed at me?? :rolleyes: :flipoff2: :D

Damn you guys are right that gusset isn't built to the draft, it will still protrude from a 36" tire.

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/drivetrain/axles/8.8's/chopped_chassis.jpg


I need to move it to the red line.


So the general idea is you guys do not like the design but it appears to have the needed strength assuming it was constructed properly.

BTW, no TPI that was directed at Ironbender.


Do you think it would be strong enough with no gusset at all?

Let me help you out here hommie. No charge for the design services...

It'd be strong enough with a smaller gusset


edit: like that one

Originally posted by mike
Seriously, the bend doesnt effect any of the geometry and with the rod gusset its the same as having flat arms.

I understand what you are saying but it isn't quite accurate, the goemetry isn't effected but it that was a straight link it would be overall 2" below that gusset and protrude 4" farther forward. I know that isn't a massive difference but it is there. Also a round bar like that is pretty hard to hang up on, if I move the rod to the red line I chopped into the pic it should be all but impossible to hit that gusset before the tire.

EDIT: Okay you guys responded before I could type all that, well that looks good enough to me. I guess now I will just make it happen.

Sure, but its an awful lotta work for 2". You're gussetting the joint. The 2" tubing is strong enough without it. make the gusset smaller and yer set

one more thing to think about... Driveline. Yeah, your LCA won't hit, but your driveline will. I'm not sure that's a good thing.

-Jack

Originally posted by IronBenderII
one more thing to think about... Driveline. Yeah, your LCA won't hit, but your driveline will. I'm not sure that's a good thing.

-Jack

Exactly. Plus with a long, straight link it has been my experience that is works well for ramping up obstacles rather than a hindrance.

Originally posted by IronBenderII
one more thing to think about... Driveline. Yeah, your LCA won't hit, but your driveline will. I'm not sure that's a good thing.

-Jack

Ahh didn't think of that, I guess I will see if the current gusset will fit that issue and if so I'll just leave it alone.

Originally posted by IronBenderII
Let me help you out here hommie. No charge for the design services...

yeah, what he said, and BTW, nice chop......

thanks... I haven't built mine yet so I have to do something.

-Jack

It's a good thought, but you don't make LCAs to act as skids for your driveline. If a rock is at your left control arm chances are it isn't under your driveshaft also. Very well could be, but I'd rather keep it all up out of the way.

Originally posted by IronBenderII
one more thing to think about... Driveline. Yeah, your LCA won't hit, but your driveline will. I'm not sure that's a good thing.

-Jack

a High pinion rear end will help that,

beefy tube on the shaft will also help

Originally posted by IronBenderII
Let me help you out here hommie. No charge for the design services...

bastard, you paintbrus faster than I do. :D:D

Hey TJ freak, you've got the idea, just bad execution.

If you make quality welds, you would not even need a gusset at all. But I would do one anyway just for overkill. I would go with a triangle of the same 2 inch tube to fit it in there instead of the rod or the flat bar. But it really does not matter.

You guys were all full of shit. :flipoff2:

No mods to the LCAs...

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/images/sideveiwLCAs.jpg

Looks fine to me. :D

And on the driveline issue, got that too. :cool:
http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/images/gussetprotecting_DS.jpg

Thanks for your help though I do appreciate it.

EDIT: Oh yeah that is a 33" tire, with 36"s I doubt you could hit them at all.

Just when you dont think a rock can reach an area on your undercarraige it will........with 36" tires or not.........Good Luck

Come on man get a clue. Not every rock that passes under your truck is gonna get run over by the tire. The whole point was that your gusset was no better than a straight arm. You could have gotten much more clearance

I guess you don't have much compression ?? it sure looks like when it's stuffed it would hit the underside of the body ... well i guess I don't know where it's mounted on the axle so that could make a big difference.

- jack

Originally posted by UGET IT
Just when you dont think a rock can reach an area on your undercarraige it will........with 36" tires or not.........Good Luck

Oh I understand that fully but I doubt it would be that arm that gets it, only about 1.25" is not sheilded by either the tire or the framerail. Either way as you said shit will always hit something eventually.



Originally posted by broncorob
Come on man get a clue. Not every rock that passes under your truck is gonna get run over by the tire. The whole point was that your gusset was no better than a straight arm. You could have gotten much more clearance

Whatever dude, if you tried to utilize that clearance you would just hang on the axle tube itself, so what get hung up 3" forward, yeah that might make a difference to a competitor but ona DD/ all terrian wheeler it won't make anything. Either way its far better then stock or a leaf spring hanger and leaf.

Cool :) whats it look like with the rear wheels at full droop?

um, so where do your LCAs mount?
more pics man!!:D

Freak

thanks for the fuel pump ill pay pal ya shortly

I think you need to cut your LCA's in front of your little tube gusset, weld in a nut to each side get a grade 8 all thread and put them back together... this will do 3 things it will allow you to use regular bushings (cheap) and your arms will still twist, it will also let you adjust your wheelbase, also you can adjust your pinion by lenghtening or shortening

Originally posted by redruM
Freak

thanks for the fuel pump ill pay pal ya shortly

I think you need to cut your LCA's in front of your little tube gusset, weld in a nut to each side get a grade 8 all thread and put them back together... this will do 3 things it will allow you to use regular bushings (cheap) and your arms will still twist, it will also let you adjust your wheelbase, also you can adjust your pinion by lenghtening or shortening

Hey no prob, I just happened to have one lying around, keep in mind I am 99% sure its fucked up so don't plan on installing it whole.

I thought seriously about that but I am kinda hard on equipment, typically the adjustment points are what die first for me. I just desided to go with the KISS plan and have no adjustment and just be damn sure I welded it up right.

I plan on staying at this wheelbase until I have something else to drive around everyday. I still need a back seat too so fuel will be an issue for that. Dunno all things to ponder but as you said it wouldn't be too hard to add them in the future.

ahh, so you going with a duel triangulation set up, so whats in store for the uppers? i see where they mount above the pumpkin, but what about the frame end?

i like the bracing with the flat bar and holes drilled in it for the bling!

One question, but please don't take this the wrong way.

Why would you ask for advice on a subject, waste everybodies time and sound ideas and build it the way you wanted to in the first place not taking into consideration what advice you were given?

Hope it works for ya, but paint the gussets white and lets see how much paint is left after a real wheeling trip..

:D

Why would you ask for advice on a subject, waste everybodies time and sound ideas and build it the way you wanted to in the first place not taking into consideration what advice you were given?

Yeah, no shit! I just read this whole thread, what a total disappointment...

I had about the same set-up as those links(not as much of a bend in them) With a gusset in the corner. They worked really well until about 3 months ago I slid back on slick rock under power going up a steep hill and when I contacted solid ground they folded up like a pocket knife! Taking out both rear shocks and u-joint in the process.

My new links are 1"sch.40 sleaved with 1 1/4" sch. 40 and are straight. No chance of them bending under power but they may get bashed by rocks I will have to see.

Originally posted by TPIJeep
One question, but please don't take this the wrong way.

Why would you ask for advice on a subject, waste everybodies time and sound ideas and build it the way you wanted to in the first place not taking into consideration what advice you were given?

Hope it works for ya, but paint the gussets white and lets see how much paint is left after a real wheeling trip..

:D

Hey no problem, I tried to get some advise on if the design was strong enough. All but one thought it was.

Then the thread was hijacked by the gusset I used will kill my clearance people, I didn't ask about that.

Now after your post Chet says he folded a set just like these.

Up until I posted the second set of images everyone pretty much agreed they were strong enough but that they would have used a smaller gusset.

Why would I have changed anything when everyone who stayed on topic thought they were strong enough?

I thought the gusset was too cute but I thought you were going to follow my bling bling photochop. Hope it holds up for you!

-Jack

Originally posted by IronBenderII
I thought the gusset was too cute but I thought you were going to follow my bling bling photochop. Hope it holds up for you!

-Jack

Oh Jack the bling is still an option, that barstock would be easy enough to knock off. :D

Originally posted by morpheus
I guess you don't have much compression ?? it sure looks like when it's stuffed it would hit the underside of the body ... well i guess I don't know where it's mounted on the axle so that could make a big difference.

- jack

It looks pretty good to me.

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/my_rear_3_link/drivers_stuff.jpg


Originally posted by mike
Cool :) whats it look like with the rear wheels at full droop?

I didn't get one with both tires off the ground but I have seen it, it droops about less then it does flexed, the shocks are the current limit but I will probably be adding some straps.

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/my_rear_3_link/passengers_droop.jpg

And some general flex shots.

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/my_rear_3_link/veiwfromrear.jpg

http://jeepwrangler.info/Tech/suspension/my_rear_3_link/passengers_side.jpg

Not driveway shots but really close.