OK, here it is. This truck was built from a 2wd 1200 wreck bought for $200 for the good 304 that was in it. Work was done this summer by me and my brother (Klassick68) in 2 months, nights and weekends. Originally, he was supposed to drive it from NH to Lariamie, WY for school. We finished wrenching on it an hour before he left. Unfortunately, He nuked a wheel bearing, shaft, and spindle on the D60 rear in Ohio, and i had to go tow the truck back. Swapped in another 60, back on the road. This tuck is mainly a Summer DD and Tow rig, but will also see quite a bit of wheelin, mostly as support for our scouts and CJ's, as well as the 64 travelall that is being built more agressively right now. Props for the killer paint to Bill's Body Shop in Rumney, NH. They hooked it up for FREE! oh, and thanks to rob for the pics. (Even though they are fawkin driveway shots, thats all i can get for now)
http://users.wpi.edu/~robsccr/IntFront.jpg
http://users.wpi.edu/~robsccr/IntBack.jpg
Specs:
*'72 345 Carter 600, mildly worked heads, mostly stock, but gone through.
*T98/NP205
*'75 disc brake D44 HD, 4.09 ratio, 297x joints/ D60 rear, 4.10, 30-spline for now
*Rear shackle flip/ 2wd front springs
*72 power steering conversion, braced draglink and reinforced frame
*tube bumpers and custom skidplate for transfer
*118 gallon fuel capacity(in bed cell)
*37-12.50 15 SSR's on 15x8 waggons
*Rancho 5012's all around.
*lots more to come, lots of shit is still missing. I know the wheelwells look full, but most of the flex in these rigs is droop anyways.
Thought a few of you binder fans out there might like to see this. C-series trucks can be built far sicker than this, this is just the
BEGINNING :flipoff2: EDIT: the gay driving lights are there cause the wireing is still fawked up, and the headlights don't always work.

Sheet, 118 Gals of petrol?

Are you dope running with this thing?
:D

That things pretty baddass - now I wanna 4wd '55 S-110 or 120 again

Very cool, nice work.

Sweet truck :eek: nice to see a step side at that

this in mine pic taken the day I got it

http://68ihtruck.homestead.com/files/Truck_10.jpg

this is the parts truck for the 4x4 conversion

http://www.homestead.com/58binder/files/68-2.jpg

Thanks, glad to see that people like my shiat.:D
Are you dope running with this thing? Nope, that was for the cross country trip, but it also makes the rear springs flex better. :)
Chief, both of your trucks are in WAY better shape than this one was when we started. It was SUPPOSED to be just parts, the cab had settled so bad that the frame was at seat-height, and rot everywhere. shoulsa gotten pics. Body work SUCKS:mad:, but it wound up being worth it (or at least i think so)

When you do your 4wd conversion, there are a few things to consider: 1) Move the transfer back, so if you want, you can swap in a scout T-19 wide and D20. Dual cases made easy 2) the factor transfer crossmembers (at least the d-series ones) suck. They WILL have cracks. Even if if doesn't brace it. 3) Power steering. GET IT. We ran this truck for a day without, and the stock steering box broke. There are quite a few different D-series setups that will fit with some work, but remember to brace your frame, alot. good luck, and PICS when you get it done!

Damn FC, that is one SWEET lookin ride. I love that body style of the full size. One of these days I'll have one of them too... Sigh... along with everything else on my wish-list!

Originally posted by FCwheeler


When you do your 4wd conversion, there are a few things to consider: 1) Move the transfer back, so if you want, you can swap in a scout T-19 wide and D20. Dual cases made easy 2) the factor transfer crossmembers (at least the d-series ones) suck. They WILL have cracks. Even if if doesn't brace it. 3) Power steering. GET IT. We ran this truck for a day without, and the stock steering box broke. There are quite a few different D-series setups that will fit with some work, but remember to brace your frame, alot. good luck, and PICS when you get it done!


hmm never thought about the t 19 thing... cool

and yes the transfercase mound did have crack so I fixed it and did some bracing it was the divorced NP 202

and yeah I want power steering but I'm keeping predy close to stock maybe with 33s so I mighr find I can do with out.... will see

thanks and there are plenty of pics to come :D

Originally posted by FCwheeler
2) the factor transfer crossmembers (at least the d-series ones) suck. They WILL have cracks. Even if if doesn't brace it


??? really, seems like a stout piece, were do they crack, how do you suggest bracing it??

I've never heard of them cracking before. My t-lette will be getting the 4x4 swap soon, and the t-case and bracket is just sitting on the floor right now....



looks sharp!

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite



??? really, seems like a stout piece, were do they crack, how do you suggest bracing it??


Mine's cracked on the driver's side, IIRC


http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0015_002.sized.jpg

I know I saw cracks and made a note to clean 'em up and weld it up and brace it when I have it out. Haven't quite gotten to pullin' the case and x-members yet.

The cracks are visible from the "outside" of the frame-rail, right about where the main "U" of the bracket meets up with the shorter/smaller piece that bolts to the frame.

As for running dual cases.. these give anyone any ideas? :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0009_002.sized.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0012_002.sized.jpg

Note that when married the D20 will sit down lower - and WILL NOT clear this crossmember. Cutting off the front output might fix that, and since the '205 front 'shaft goes UNDER this crossmember, you're in good shape aside from the shifter linkage for the '205.

Even better would be an automatic with a Jeep 300 (or NV241) clocked up out of the way (or the 241 left-drop).

Might be just enough driveshaft left.

This is a '74 200 4x4. On a 73 or earlier you should have a good bit more intermediate shaft to work with, since the engines weren't set back like mine are.

-Tom

More pictures (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/postnuke/modules.php?set_albumName=album27&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=3)

Some x-member pics.

This one's already been patched on the passenger side by some PO.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0001_003.sized.jpg

Driver's side is cracking, not on the x-member itself, but part of the mounting bracket.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0003_003.sized.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/album27/dcp_0012_003.sized.jpg

Any suggestions on bracing from the BTDT crowd?

I haven't given it a lot of thought yet.. figured I'd wait until it was OUT and on the bench before I worried too much about it.

I'd also like to see some pics of the service-bulletin strut-rod modification that, IIRC, involves a rod from the underside of the NP205 to the underside/back of the tranny, or something similar.

I'd like to fab something up before I go romping on the throttle in the Travelette loaded down.

d'oh.. shoulda built it while I still had the tranny mounted in the donor frame.. would've been a snap that way..

Oh well.

Any suggestions on bracing from the BTDT crowd?

All We did was plate around the bolt holes, because that was where all the cracks started. As far as the brackets, i used the c-series ones. I would look into the c-series crossmember, if you cna find one. They seem to be a little better, but will still have cracks. They will take a twin-stick NP 202 or 200, though:D If I had to do it again, I would probably plate the whole top, and run 1" DOM on the sides. probly overkill, but if you want to hammer on it, it might be worth it.

Originally posted by FCwheeler


All We did was plate around the bolt holes, because that was where all the cracks started. As far as the brackets, i used the c-series ones. I would look into the c-series crossmember, if you cna find one. They seem to be a little better, but will still have cracks. They will take a twin-stick NP 202 or 200, though:D If I had to do it again, I would probably plate the whole top, and run 1" DOM on the sides. probly overkill, but if you want to hammer on it, it might be worth it.

yeah mine was cracking at them hols as well and a pice of ribbing was was cut from it and so it started to craxk so I braced it a bit

I broke mine this weekend, (on the 64 T-all), it tore out around the frame brackets. Coulda had somthing to do with the 3K clutch dump to get it off the ledge though :rolleyes: I think I am going to a 205 and D seriese crossmember (identical, but not cracked) though, 200 keeps kicking out of gear.