Thinking about an Ftoy chassis dropped onto my 1985 4runner. Is it possible to drop the chassis onto it and keep the stock floor and firewall?

Anything is possible but I don't think it would be anywhere near cost and time effective.

Anything is possible but I don't think it would be anywhere near cost and time effective.

Would the Ftoy chassis have to be modified for it to work? I don't mind cutting out some of the floor. I just wanted to keep my seats like thay are and keep the firewall so I didn't have to remount brake booster, pedals, etc.

With all due respect, it's not worth it. I agree with Air Ride--but for other reasons!! I think you could do it cheaply and with similar time as new sheet metal, but:

You can keep your seats and your CoG lower building custom....and mount your chassis lower if you don't have to work around the stock height of your seats above your factory floorboards.

You will have more legroom (or can mount your seats closer to the firewall for better visibility over the hood bars) if you build a custom firewall.

...and the stock stuff is going to be uglier than custom sheet metal! :flipoff2:

Don't care about looks or being comp. legal. Only interested in ease of dropping 700 pounds or more off my current 4runner and still having a cage.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/dragr1/Rockfest%202010%20Great%20American%20Park/DSCF0491.jpg


I have 2 friends with Ftoys, I'm sure they'll speak up sometime. Both are well built, but I don't like the seating position at all of either. I like the stock seating position, shifter placement and firewall. Just thought I would ask if there was an easy way out w/o starting over.

i hear what you are saying and it makes sense, but been there and done that. wasn't worth the effort

Don't be lazy.

Or if you want to, just pay Cam $100k to do it :D

You will drop 700#, easy.

:smokin:

You will drop 700#, easy.

:smokin:

I don't doubt that on a full Ftoy, in that case it would be more like 1500 pounds.

Don't be lazy.

Or if you want to, just pay Cam $100k to do it :D

Maybe I can convince him to loan some $$ to Ingram to bail his papa outta prison?:flipoff2:

i would think it would be a LOT more work to retain the stock stuff. You will need to have the chassis sit a lot higher on the frame due to the floor and seats being mounted higher. And I would think that the seats would be set apart too wide to fit inside the chassis. You will be miles ahead if you just start over.

Sounds like the FToy just won't work for me. Guess I'll roll like it is until it can just become a custom buggy.

Why not Just cut the exo off and strip the body minus the floor and firewall and build a Ftoy style cage? Steel wise its sub 1k on new tube and you can sell the exo to somebody else or something.

Why not Just cut the exo off and strip the body minus the floor and firewall and build a Ftoy style cage? Steel wise its sub 1k on new tube and you can sell the exo to somebody else or something.

That is gonna be exactly the plan-when I get around to it.

Why not Just cut the exo off and strip the body minus the floor and firewall and build a Ftoy style cage? Steel wise its sub 1k on new tube and you can sell the exo to somebody else or something.


I built my own Ftoy style cage, would I do it again :shaking:no! Hendrix builds a great chassis. He knows what works and what doesnt. The money you save gets used up on other things ( I bought a small plasma, upgraded bender to hydraulic) not to mention the time to try and design your own.

As far as keeping the factory firewall and floor, dont bother. I know a few guys that have done it and they regret it. It looks like shit. The engine and trans are still in the same spot, you cant move them back. Believe me that makes a huge difference. The pedals and steering are not that hard to mount.

If you are going to take the time to make your truck into a buggy, start off right. There will be alot of little things at the end you will probably do cheaper just to get it finished, I did, now I regret it.

Doesn't someone have a pic of this and how hideous it looks ? :D

Doesn't someone have a pic of this and how hideous it looks ? :D

Post #11

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250533

Post #11

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250533

Can't see much from that pic, but what I see is :barf:

Post #11

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250533

terrible :laughing:

terrible :laughing:

your welcome Hobie:D

Thanks. I needed a good laugh. Now go look at Hobie's 2011 KOH prep thread. You've come a long way bro.

Don't make the mistakes that others have already proven to be a complete waste of time and money.

It's amazing that Hobie did his first build only 5 years ago.
Camo's #001 was only 6-7 years ago.
The rest of us who started more recently are "standing on the shoulders of giants". Before it makes their heads too big--we at least need to thank them for making mistakes and sharing their fixes--so we don't have to!

Amazing how far the class and build details have come.

Thanks. I needed a good laugh. Now go look at Hobie's 2011 KOH prep thread. You've come a long way bro.

Don't make the mistakes that others have already proven to be a complete waste of time and money.

It's amazing that Hobie did his first build only 5 years ago.
Camo's #001 was only 6-7 years ago.
The rest of us who started more recently are "standing on the shoulders of giants". Before it makes their heads too big--we at least need to thank them for making mistakes and sharing their fixes--so we don't have to!

Amazing how far the class and build details have come.

Well said! I only know about that pic because I read every build thread before I started mine.:beer:

Not to ruin the momentum of the thread, but drag, why don't you just start cleaning up an old frame, then work on putting a chassis on it, then strip down the runner once you get all the sheet metal work done. Now that I think about it, we might could work something out on a chassis, call me when you get a chance, remember I still drive a 4 runner daily.

Not to ruin the momentum of the thread, but drag, why don't you just start cleaning up an old frame, then work on putting a chassis on it, then strip down the runner once you get all the sheet metal work done. Now that I think about it, we might could work something out on a chassis, call me when you get a chance, remember I still drive a 4 runner daily.

Something to think about. Honestly though I love wheeling but hate working on it. I know how long it took Marc and Spencer to build Marc's ftoy and that was with both of them working on it every weekend and almost every night. Both of them are light years ahead of me with fab skills and even general mechanic work, I've never get it finished!

Aw man are you kiddin me? Marc and Spencer, those guys dont know diddly:flipoff2:

Something to think about. Honestly though I love wheeling but hate working on it. I know how long it took Marc and Spencer to build Marc's ftoy and that was with both of them working on it every weekend and almost every night. Both of them are light years ahead of me with fab skills and even general mechanic work, I've never get it finished!

Look at the #522. I built Ronnie a "roller" for what I think was a really reasonable price. I don't know exactly how long it took for him to get it wheelin but it wasn't very long and he had only minimal fab work to do. Talk to Wade about doing the same for you.

Something to think about. Honestly though I love wheeling but hate working on it. I know how long it took Marc and Spencer to build Marc's ftoy and that was with both of them working on it every weekend and almost every night. Both of them are light years ahead of me with fab skills and even general mechanic work, I've never get it finished!
I know it took them a lot longer to build 94, and man its a sweet ride, but it doesnt have to go like that either. When we started 111, and 112 we kept asking john what do we do, how should we go about this? He kept saying just get it together, and wheel it. You will make adjustments as you go. I have learned a lot from the set up on 94, after every trail ride, kenny pulls out a tape measure, and sneaks over to marks buggy, while i distract him. look at it this way, you might find a better to set up your f toy, and you wont be able to do that till you wheel it. We built a half-ass shop, drove to Cali, picked up the chassis, and bUIlt 2 f toys by the end of 08, and we didnt start till mid june. as far as fab skills, dont worry, i dont think AA has a better support group than the f toy crew.

Look at the #522. I built Ronnie a "roller" for what I think was a really reasonable price. I don't know exactly how long it took for him to get it wheelin but it wasn't very long and he had only minimal fab work to do. Talk to Wade about doing the same for you.

John is right. It took me longer waiting on parts and gathering up $$ than it did actually building my FToy. Now, there are a lot of little things that I still want to work on, but I've 'wheeled it twice already with no breakage or problems short of a "radiator to drag link" clearance issue. As far as the fab, all I used is a chop-saw, grinder and air-tools, and a Lincoln 180HD and almost no previous welding experience. It was worth every penny I gave John to help me out, and I'd do it again (he prolly wouldn't..lol).

start from scrach.. it will be better over all.. or else it could go into the ghetto fab / hack jobs thread :flipoff2:

Could I use what I have and just remove the exo, body, and wiring (it's propane now anyway). Basically remove everything but the axles, suspension, steering, and drivetraine, set the chassis on it and then get to finishing it out?

Could I use what I have and just remove the exo, body, and wiring (it's propane now anyway). Basically remove everything but the axles, suspension, steering, and drivetraine, set the chassis on it and then get to finishing it out?

If you have the opportunity, it may be alot easier to do like I did and get a rolling chassis, and then "transfer" all of your major components to the FToy. I bought a completely stock 88 pickup and once I had the axles mounted to the chassis I just removed from one and installed on the other. Comparably, it went pretty quick. Here's what I "started" with...

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/7620/ftoy522042.jpg

Then, you are left with another "rolling chassis" that could be sold to someone wanting to build a full-body rig that they can transfer whatever they have into...

If you have the opportunity, it may be alot easier to do like I did and get a rolling chassis, and then "transfer" all of your major components to the FToy. I bought a completely stock 88 pickup and once I had the axles mounted to the chassis I just removed from one and installed on the other. Comparably, it went pretty quick. Here's what I "started" with...

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/7620/ftoy522042.jpg

Then, you are left with another "rolling chassis" that could be sold to someone wanting to build a full-body rig that they can transfer whatever they have into...

Well close. You actually had front and rear complete suspension mounting points so from where you picked it up it was only bolt on the springs and it was a roller. It also had new engine mounts right where they needed to be. Both those items can occupy your time for 2 weeks on your first build.

I would at least find an early frame. Strip and prep it. Get a chassis and mount it. Complete as much of the initial fab as possible BEFORE you down your trail rig.

Why an early frame and not a 2nd or 3rd gen frame?


Well close. You actually had front and rear complete suspension mounting points so from where you picked it up it was only bolt on the springs and it was a roller. It also had new engine mounts right where they needed to be. Both those items can occupy your time for 2 weeks on your first build.

I would at least find an early frame. Strip and prep it. Get a chassis and mount it. Complete as much of the initial fab as possible BEFORE you down your trail rig.

Why an early frame and not a 2nd or 3rd gen frame?
More room for front axle up travel.

findley, make sure your hydro assist ram and axle clear your oil pan, front crank pulley, fan, and radiator on full stuff...or you'll end up setting bump stops as low as 2nd/3rd gen IFS framerails and not get the advantage of all that uptravel.

How about an '84 4runner frame? I know where there is a rust free one at the right price.

Well close. You actually had front and rear complete suspension mounting points so from where you picked it up it was only bolt on the springs and it was a roller. It also had new engine mounts right where they needed to be.

It also had the steering, but I didn't have a good pic of all that. Your camera is WAY better than my crappy BlackBerry phone.

But I do agree that doing it like I did does give you the advantage of still being able to 'wheel while getting the major/time consuming fab work done. The rest goes real quick. Just "hmm, this needs a place. Ok, done. Now this needs a place..."