I am thinking about clocking up the t-case so that I can run a flat belly pan, but I want to know how much sheet metal modifications I will have to do to the tub. What have people done to accomidate the transfercase coming up under the pass. seat. I am not and will not run a body lift so it will be a sheet metal thing. does anyone have pics?

Joe

Do a search for Maine Jeepah. MJ just did his and posted some pics.

Mines flat but still down about 2" from the frame as I did not clock the t-case (d20 in my case). Nothing for rocks to grab on it though and it works great!!!

Heres a pic of the hole I cut...I clocked the d300 basically flat (behind a t176, and 258 right now).

Had to bend up the front portion hole lip near the front yoke to clear it a little.

Also there are braces under the seat that need a little hammer tapping.

I have the tranny supported by a crossmember that is above the bottom of the frame rail just slightly, and made a flat skid.

Heres a pic of the hole...no body lift...trans case might tab agains the floor bottom depending on what ya chop...try not to effect your seat supports if you want to have passengers.

MJ

Heres the case form underneath, can still go up an inch or so in the pic...I bfh'ed a little underneath as well as I recall.

Nice shadow puppet, what, no POR salute? :flipoff2:

tranny x-member...welded brackets to the frame rails not seen in this pic.

MJ

Originally posted by 4Bangler
Nice shadow puppet, what, no POR salute? :flipoff2:

I know...what was I thinking. :D

and actually if you really think about it..I didnt have to clock it up all the way like I did...

Being as I am working by myself most of the time I had a buddy help me put it in there when we clocked it flat...and I just left it...sawzalling the floor was easier.

I think clocking it one position down would still require some choppage however.

MJ

Just a couple questions.

Does that mount keep the rear output ijn the same place as before ?

Is the tranny bolted directly to the x-member?

I'm hoping to build something similar to that for my CJ. (Doing a 4.0/AX-15 swap now) When I clock my Dana 300 up.

thanks
Tony W

What did you do about your exhaust? Did you run it up above the crossmsmber or below. In the pic it is right in line with it. That is exactly what I was looking for. I like your x-member design. Mind if I copy it? Is the only bushing at the outer parts of it or are you going to run something under the tranny?
Joe

I made mine very simimalr to that. I clocked my tcase 17 degrees. I had to cut a little out of my floor but no big deal.

#1 its not my design...I just bastardized others I've seen.

Exhaust bends over the x-member.

Xmember mounts directly to the tranny.
Uses the same bolt holes as the old tranny mount.

Running swampers..so if its noisey, or vibrates I wouldnt know it.

IMO the bushing on either end adn the inherent flex of the x-member give it less slop than the original set up...but it still does move a little.

Again make sure the motor mounts are comperable or look out for the bellhousing.

MJ

Here are the other 2 pics of my set up.

last one

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah
[BAgain make sure the motor mounts are comperable or look out for the bellhousing.[/B]

Are you saying that I should use similarly designed motor mounts (like the bombproof ones from MORE) ?

Or just not 20 year old separated OEM mounts :D

Tony W

yeah just make sure you MM's arent wasted...I was gonna go poly with mine...but just couldnt resist the nice 6 dollar a piece ones at the parts store...heck for that price I couldeven carry a spare or two.

They are far stiffer than the globs of rubber that are in there now...shoudl help quite a bit.

I've heard bad thing aout the poly ones separating in a hard roll and such...right preach? :eek: :p
MJ

I have poly ones in my heep now. I got tired of wasting the sstock repalcements and dumping my oil all over the trail, and I can say one thing. They took a hard roll and they are fine. My poly trans mount kind of loosened up a little in the time that it has been in there but the MM's are fine.
Here it is on it's top
http://www.softcom.net/users/joepasic/ROLL04.jpg
And here is where it flopped
http://www.softcom.net/users/joepasic/ROLL05.jpg
why is there always a fat guy with his shirt off to get into everyones pics? :D :flipoff2:
Joe

Originally posted by wiltech
Does that mount keep the rear output ijn the same place as before ?


Yup. You are rotating and the output in the rear is the center point of the rotation. Rear driveshaft length should not change. Front most likely will depending on your applicationj I guess. I can't say as mine is being done from scratch with a new shaft being made front and rear.

Dean

Originally posted by 1TonCJ-7


Yup. You are rotating and the output in the rear is the center point of the rotation. Rear driveshaft length should not change. Front most likely will depending on your applicationj I guess. I can't say as mine is being done from scratch with a new shaft being made front and rear.

Dean

I realize that :flipoff2:

I just wasn't sure if he had actually raised the rear output any. Especially when you compare the 2 different designs on this thread, Bgcj5's has a drop and the tranny mount is below the frame, Where as Maine Jeepah's, is above the bottom of the frame. Maybe this is just because of the different trannys and t-case adapters.

Tony W

are either of you guys running a 1" bushing/body lift? i put my T-18/d20 (unclocked) in and easily got the skid-plate 2" below the frame. with a less simple design, i could probably get it flat. with the 1" bushing lift, i didn't have to do any floor cutting or hammering either.

matt

the rear output is completely up to you. If you raise it then you may run into some driveshaft problems, because of length and angle of the output will change. I am going to a CV so that isn't really a concern.

What about a T-18 and a 300. The shift forks look awful close to the tranny. When I move it up am I going to have to do some shaving or is it going to skim by?
Joe

check the link out.

The T-18, T176, T-19 and NP435 all have issues where the stock t-case shift mount will likely get clocked into something. Most often a little metal can be tweaked off the tranny case or the inside ear of the aluminum 300 shift mount fork. In extreme cases people have removed the inside ear and mounted a twin stick to the outside ear. My own custom twinstick mounts to the floor and pivots on that mount so i don't use either ear on the fork.

Some of the pics show a pretty rigid mount of the adapter ot the cross member- not a good idea unless you have solid motor mounts. Stuff moves and that mount needs to be able to flex some. Even the frame will twist quite a bit. If there is not enough flex at that joint you can break your adapter leg right off.

You really want the motor mounts taking all the torque stress, the tranny mount kind of goes along for the ride and keeps all of it in the general location. Same deal with your custom skid plates- if you don't leave enough room and you have loose motor mounts the t-case clocks into the skid plate and takes all the torque- tough on parts in that neighborhood.

The location of any hole in the floor will vary depending on tranny length etc.

good luck and let me know if I can help.
Ken Blume

I am running a 1 inch body lift. Prob the only reason mine stickes below the frame rail is because I am running a different tranny than Maine Jeeper. I am running a ford t-18 so the adaptor is different. Another differance might also be that his motor may be higher in the frame rails than mine thus tucking everything up more. I hope that helps some if u need any more info let me know.

Originally posted by Go2Guy
My own custom twinstick mounts to the floor and pivots on that mount so i don't use either ear on the fork.

Do you happen to have any pics of this ?

Thanks
Tony W

No, but roundy round guys use this on their transmissions all the time, speedway motors has some in their catalog that can be easily adapted- like $44.

Originally posted by Go2Guy
No, but roundy round guys use this on their transmissions all the time, speedway motors has some in their catalog that can be easily adapted- like $44.

Something like this (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/product.asp?base%5Fid%5Fbasket=91021955&mscssid=B46UT1JSWKNK9LE60DMMXVD2374H0KAE)?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eCCStoreFront/smi/product_images/medium/91021955.jpg

Tony W

Originally posted by Go2Guy
check the link out.

Some of the pics show a pretty rigid mount of the adapter ot the cross member- not a good idea unless you have solid motor mounts. Stuff moves and that mount needs to be able to flex some. Even the frame will twist quite a bit. If there is not enough flex at that joint you can break your adapter leg right off.

You really want the motor mounts taking all the torque stress, the tranny mount kind of goes along for the ride and keeps all of it in the general location.

From actually doing this all I can say is that the tranny still moves, albeit not as much as before, which I think is good...as long as the motor mounts, and the tranny mounts move the same as they used to I dont' see it as a problem...sure my tranny is mounted to a solid crossmember....but the crossmember flexes at both ends...so rather than pivoting on one small area...it is now pivoting less, in two areas...up on one side, down on the other for example.

Whats the difference really?


If the motor is flopping around and the tranny mount is stiff...then yeah I can see it being an issue...

I suppose only time will tell...

MJ
:)

I forgot about your bushings on the end- ypou just dont want the mount back there to be more restrictive than the engine mounts.:D

What did you guys end up using for skid plates ?

MJ - It looks like you can a flat piece of steel.

BG - What about you, since yours hangs below the frame ?

Thanks
Tony W

I have yet to make a skid plate but what I am going to do is weld some 1x1 tubing to the frame rail and tap the bottom. then I am going to run a plate between the 2 with some bracing on the plate so I can rest the jeep on it. Thats about it my cross member only hangs about 3/4 of an inch below the frame so I will have about 1/4 inch for the skid plate to move around if need be. I think it will work out pretty good.

go2guy is right. i broke an adapter and then i broke the rear of my th400 off! i was running stock style chevy eng mounts and the crossmember for my tranny mount used poly bushings at the frame. this is not a good setup. i broke the tranny housing on my last trip out. when it all goes into my new rig it'll have the round poly bushings at the motor mounts and at the tranny crossmember. breaking a tranny is no fun!

Finally got my t-case in and clocked

Ooooh look at that the t-case and tranny are almost flat (note the t-case is above the tranny mount):
http://cjoffroad.com/images/clockingring/rear_t-case.jpg

From the side:
http://cjoffroad.com/images/4.0swap/almost_flat.jpg

Tony W

Originally posted by wiltech
Finally got my t-case in and clocked

Ooooh look at that the t-case and tranny are almost flat (note the t-case is above the tranny mount):
http://cjoffroad.com/images/clockingring/rear_t-case.jpg

From the side:
http://cjoffroad.com/images/4.0swap/almost_flat.jpg

Tony W Tony, how much did you have to cut out of the floor?

looks good How did u end up going about it. what are u going ot do for a skid

This is as high as I could get my flat skid with an NV4500 and one inch body lift.
https://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/SkidPlate/SettingDepth.jpg
With a Go2Guy clocking ring, the belly of the trannie and the bottom of the D300 are on the same plane (above wood block on floor jack).
See write up if intrerested in construction ... Skid Plate (https://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/SkidPlate/SkidPlate.htm)

Originally posted by Madmarx
Tony, how much did you have to cut out of the floor?
none, I have a 1" body lift :D

Originally posted by Bgcj5
looks good How did u end up going about it. what are u going ot do for a skid
Made my own AX-15/D300 clocking ring/adapter :flipoff2:
http://cjoffroad.com/images/clockingring/ring_on.jpg

I think I might be able to get it a liitle bit higher, maybe even enough to use a flat piece of steel as the skid.

Tony W

Holy thread revival Batman!! :eek:

But, good work Tony, looks like she'll be able to slide nicely when you get some flat steel underneath. ;)

Jaffer, maybe looks are deceiving but it really looks like the plate's kinda thin without reinforcements to handle the torque from the motor and trans and all, do you have any problems with that? Or are you using a crossmember like Maine Jeepah's that just isn't visible there?

no body lift # 1

#2

last, #3 no pics of the skid plate @ the moment, i can snap some this week if so desired.

I used a Go2Guy clocking ring on my 7. 1" body lift and I was able to use the second set of clocking holes with just a very minor mod to the side of the passenger footwell - less than 1" of hammer-mod.

Anyway, I used the stock skidplate for now but chopped the drop out of it and welded a flat piece of metal in place.

It's not level with the framerails, but it's a lot better than it was.

Here's a pic of how it looks now...

Originally posted by Hayfever
Jaffer, maybe looks are deceiving but it really looks like the plate's kinda thin without reinforcements to handle the torque from the motor and trans and all, do you have any problems with that? Or are you using a crossmember like Maine Jeepah's that just isn't visible there?

I've scraped and pinwheeled quite a bit on the 3/16" steel at play in ChokeCherry Canyon and at two Pro-Rocks comps. It's doing great except for the trailing edge which is getting bent in some.
I did not reinforce that back edge because I was concerned about getting the trannie mount allignment and being able to get a wrench in there to tighten it all down on first install.
When I pull it next, I intend on welding a piece of 1" angle iron tent style across the bottom plate at the trailing edge just behind the trannie perch.
That should do it.
I'll keep the isolator on the plate now I have alignment and will only need to tighten the two upper isolator bolts into the trannie which is much easier to get a wrench onto.
https://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/SkidPlate/AllPaintedUp.jpg

Definately do it. It will add a ton of strength. I threw a few of them on my skid. Something tells me this isn't going to bend. Sorry I can't find a pic of the top side, but here is what the bottom looks like.


http://www.thejeepsite.com/buildup/images/DSCN5335.jpg

CA_YJ- How did you bend your skid. Was it done on a press brake, or do you have a home brew method?

Yep. it has 4 bends in it. It is done with a 60 ton press. One of the things I sell. We have a shop that bends all our stuff. It's a bit heavier than stock, but SUPER BEEFY.

www.rev1crawlers.com

finally got pics of the finished skid.

1

2, and last

sceep,

Sweet Belly Pan. Also that looks like exactly were I have to route my exhaust.



RK

Originally posted by Rob Kosinski
sceep,

Sweet Belly Pan. Also that looks like exactly were I have to route my exhaust.



RK
:D thanks, i was quite happy with it. The back edge of it is going to get beefed a bit as soon as i find the time to build a traction bar.

Have fun with the exhaust, I decided to run a single pipe with the 318 just because of clerance issues, it BARELY fits in between the frame rail and the t-case right there. 2-1/4" pipe. drivers side runs forward, then crosses over in front of the oil pan and ties into passenger side @ the manifold. plumbed the o2 sensor in just after the junction.

good luck. :D

Sceep, out of curiosity, why didn't you run the exhaust down the drivers side like stock? Seems like a lot of trouble squeezing it down the passenger side.

Originally posted by Hayfever
Sceep, out of curiosity, why didn't you run the exhaust down the drivers side like stock? Seems like a lot of trouble squeezing it down the passenger side.

it was a full blown custom jobber with the 318 swap anyway. there was no fuel lines on the passenger side. seemed like an easy choice to me. :D

Anyone have a NAPA or O Reilly's part number for the stock replacement MM that were mentioned earlier in this thread? I'm in the middle of my own t-case clock, new tranny x-member and flat skid project and am worried about the stock worn out MM.

Thanks,
Jon D.