Right, well I'm looking at possible x-mas presents, and am looking for a small welder. Yes, I searched "welder" and "110 welder" and didn't totally get what I'm looking for. Now, I know you guys like what can do nearly everything right the first time... hobart 175 and one of the millermatics, i think. I'm looking for a 110v welder, and my only previous exprience was welding sheet metal w/ i believe a miller mig (2 years ago) in an auto body class. I'm looking for a basic welder, approx 300 bucks, which will weld nothing huge. 3/8's at most. I'm only looking to use the welder for bracketry, nothing big like frame work, or cages. I know you guys must know of a "better" 110v model, even though y'all like the bigger welders :) I'd love one too, but i wont use it enough, i dont think, to warrent it... and it'll be my big present from my parents, and I dont want to go too big. 400 bucks max pretty much, not including gas (which i don't understand to setup, but will search later) but somethin sold as a fairly complete setup.. If you guys could send me in the right direction, that'd be great.
From the sites i found via searching these are what i came across:
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=U1474-2
http://www.cyberweld.com/hobhan135.html
Sketchy on these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=23302
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=33791

Thanks
Pete

P.S. Only a college student so the parents fund that and really don't like dumping tons into me at x-mas :p

you won't find anything for 300 bucks that will weld 3/8" muchless 1/4" except maybe an AC225 stick welder, spend your money on gettin wired for 220 and keep saving for your welder.

i personally would not buy a 110 machine,,i'd spend the extra cash and get an inexpensive 220..i didnt think i'd use mine often either but i've found so many uses for it that it's worth every penny...i have a feeling if you get a 110, you wont be satisfied especially if you weld stuff up to 3/8" thick...i say save a little more and pick up the most inexpensive 220 hobart or miller...course you could pick up a lincoln stick welder at home depot or somewhere else for pretty inexpensive i think (much below your 300 mark)...

Try the stick welder, but I wouldn't waste money on any
mig smaller than a 175, which will not be 110 or under 400 bucks.

Originally posted by Hickeyjones
you won't find anything for 300 bucks that will weld 3/8" muchless 1/4" except maybe an AC225 stick welder, spend your money on gettin wired for 220 and keep saving for your welder.

Why? I personally dont want to go and pay for a 220v plug myself, when i have no intention to weld anything that is going to need a welder that big. If i do need to weld something that big, it'll be done elsewhere, with a much more expirenced hand. Now, 300 bucks is just an optimal goal... I'm fully aware that i doubt i'll get anything this cheap that is good, but just tryin to be optimistic. I do want some other smaller presents too! ;) 400-500 is more what I'm expecting, but 500 is pushing it... At least cause my parents have been good for fronting me cash for my projects and yes i've payed em back, but i don't want to tax them with some heavy present, since they've given me alot so far, and this doesn't even inclue the funding for college, so i'm looking for something that'll do 3/8's average mild steel... something that won't be huge cost for them and I'll get benifit out of... Now other welders are fine... besides mig.... i've only used mig, and did okay for what i did.... please, just looking for suggestions and all options!
Pete

Also keep in mind that some of your inexpensive 110v MIG's aren't capable of using gas, strictly flux core. Welding with flux core just plain sucks in my opinion, not to mention the added cost of flux core wire.

Most of your cheaper 110v welders (see, home depot/costco lincoln weldpak 100) use aluminium wrapped coils instead of copper. That is why you can pay $300 at Home Depot and the same thing will cost $450 some where else, different coils. This causes several issues which I don't have the time right now to go into but let's just say, your end product will suffer.


All that being said.....


buy a miller 175 and wire up some 220v. :flipoff2:

Okay, I have a Millermatic 210 (large welder, MIG) but when I'm welding 3/8", I use my lincoln stick welder... Get it?

110v will work fine for most things. I have a Lincoln 135(for gas, just add bottle). The Hobart 135 is also a good choice.

Originally posted by Priest
buy a miller 175 and wire up some 220v. :flipoff2:
AMEN :grinpimp:

Sure, you can make two pieces of 3/8" stick together with a 110, but my five year old could break them apart.

Originally posted by peterfj40
i personally would not buy a 110 machine,,i'd spend the extra cash and get an inexpensive 220..i didnt think i'd use mine often either but i've found so many uses for it that it's worth every penny...i have a feeling if you get a 110, you wont be satisfied especially if you weld stuff up to 3/8" thick...i say save a little more and pick up the most inexpensive 220 hobart or miller...course you could pick up a lincoln stick welder at home depot or somewhere else for pretty inexpensive i think (much below your 300 mark)...
Got Home Depot's all over chicagoland area.... here's what i found on their website
[http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIGATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0133971212.1036561000@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccchadcgjhllkgmcgelceffdfgidgjk.0&search_text=welder&DRC=4] Home Depot-Lincoln Stick[/url]

[http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIGATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0845930029.1036561100@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladcgjhlllimcgelceffdfgidgmn.0&search_text=welder&DRC=4] Home Depot-Lincoln 115v[/url]

Oh yeah, I do tend to enjoy buying something right the first time, so if I get enough responses, I might turn this into a combine 21st b-day (dec 2) and x-mas present! I need lots of responses for that, not to mention, my parents have to let me get a 220v installed in their house

Look in the free want ads for a Sec/100 amp 220V set up...they only have about a 30% duty cycle but I see them all the time around $400.....I just sold a miller 120 and a Century Allstar 100 for $350 each...
They are good machines and can weld 3/8 it just takes a couple of passes...
Don't buy a 110 box they just suck even for sheet metal....you will grow out of it immediately trust me...

Anyone used the Hobart Stickmate LX (235 AC/160 DC)??? This is the version with DC AND AC output. For $380 with running gear, it seems like good choice for frame mods, axle housings, etc. That seems like enough power for most all projects. Anyone use a stick welder on roll cages?

Originally posted by hightechredneck
Anyone used the Hobart Stickmate LX (235 AC/160 DC)??? This is the version with DC AND AC output. For $380 with running gear, it seems like good choice for frame mods, axle housings, etc. That seems like enough power for most all projects. Anyone use a stick welder on roll cages?

Thats what I'd get. Not too long ago I sold off my muich beloved Hobart TR250 stick box because it was fricken huge (38-315ac/dc) and I didnt wanna move it anymore. I let it go in your price range. Look used. Either way I've used a lincoln sp125+ a bit and it was a good welder. I woulnt use it for 3/8"

Miller Thunderbolt ac/dc 225 is a wicked lil machine, will burn a big fat 7024 with ease :D

Found this at www.weldingmart.com
AC-225 230 V Stick Welder
Lincoln stick welder... these any good?

http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/c000221.htm
Pete

for 3/8" get a stick or at least a miller 210...i have a miller 175 (haven't used it yet, one week old :) )....and it is only rated to 1/4" in one pass....i have a century 110 gl 125 that can be converted to gas....but with the flux cored....it sucks. and doesn't penetrate crap...step up to the 220v welders...
greg

one more thing...i built my truck (SAS and all) with that crappy little 110v....first thing i am going to do when i have a chance to go home(i'm in college also) is fire up that miller and grind and re-weld everything....will look better too
greg

I have a holbart 135, I like it quite a bit, its biggest disadvantage is its low duty cycle, it shuts off pretty quickly when used at full blast. I have done quite a bit with it, including an axle swap, and a front bumper fabrication. I would have gone 220, but the rental house I was in at the time didn't have it wired, and I didn't want to mess with it.

Now that I got a house with a real garage, I'm looking for a used 220 stick or possible tig, for doing the bigger jobs. A 220 mig may be in the cards someday, but not in the near future.

110 welders can work, even flux core, the are just a lot slower, and require a lot more practice and patients to get a good weld. The other thing is, if you do want to go bigger in the future, a 110 welder is still a handy thing to have around, and if you buy a use one now, they really don't depreciate much.

And you can weld 3/8" with them, it just takes a hell of a bevel, and about 6 passes, but it can be done :)

chad

if you really dont want to weld bigger stuff, i mean really really shure you wont, then get a millermatic 130, its 110 power and a good little machine, you can have it complete with bottle and ready to go for about $650 out the door. you could go a bit cheaper but you end up with things like cheasy plastic drives and aluminum windings which dont run as smooth.
also if your shure you wont be doing big stuff, dont bother with a stick machine, get a small mig and be happy.

no matter what the website or instruction manual says a 100v MIG won't (or shouldn't be used to) weld over 3/16" well unless it's welded on both sides of the joint. (single pass)

Been there, still doing that. waiting to buy a bigger welder:beer:

Originally posted by RFR2212
Found this at www.weldingmart.com
AC-225 230 V Stick Welder
Lincoln stick welder... these any good?

http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/c000221.htm
Pete

If your gonna buy a stick machine, you want ac/dc. Dont waste the money on AC alone.

Forget everyting else and listen carefully. You can do the majority of small work as long as you get at least a 130 amp machine. You will need to have a 30 amp circuit installed and if you use an extension cord you must use a 10 guage wire minimum. I have and still use a Pocket turbo 130 that I bought from Daytona mig about 15 years ago. they run about $350 these days and are marketed under a variety of names. they are made in italy by cebora if I remember correctly.

My PT130 outwelded the snot out of the Miller 110v unit a buddy of mine purchased at the same time. I think the Miller was one of the first 110v machines they produced so it may have been a POS to start with but we were not impressed with the miller 110v unit. It sucked comparitivly. I dont have experience with modern 110v migs but I do know that my PT130 had a superior arc and can weld 1/4 single pass with decent penetration if your setup and technique is correct.

Now for the reality of the PT130. The wirefeed mechanism (on my version) is made of plastic and if you get brake cleaner near this stuff you can forget it - it crumbles. Dont ask how I know this. Replacement parts were relatively cheap but too damn expensive for plastic bullshit. Also I had to increase the spring pressure to keep the wire feeding correctly. It feeds aluminum wire with no birdnesting. The regulator that came with it is definately low end junk but it worked for 10 years before the seats went out and I switched to a real one.

110v Bottom line: even with the faults of the Italian made unit I have been happy (except with the 20% duty cycle that can't be avoided with 110v units). I was looking for a 110v unit that I could afford and that would deliver siilar performance to the 220v miller migs I used at work. I got it with the PT130. The Miller 110v unit we tested was junk in comparison. This is 15 year old data so take it for what it is worth. Try and demo/use the welder before you buy it.

220v Reality: With that said you really should try to get at least 175A/220v unit because you WILL want to weld larger stuff and wont have the penetration using ANY 110v unit. A good 110v unit will fooool you into thinking you can do it :flipoff2: :D:

I have a cheap azz 110V Mig welder - it says "Craftsman" on it but it is a Lincoln underneath. I wouldn't weld anything larger than 3/16" with it and I prefer to stick to 1/8", .120" stuff. If I need anything serious welded - I tack it together (sometimes it won't even tack on thick stuff - axle tubes for example) and haul it off to someone else.

BUT- I love it - I live in an apartment and have no electricty in my garage so all my projects are done in someone elses garage so my 110V is perfectly portable and has saved me tons of money on projects by allowing me to do it myself.

Tips for 110V - never use an extension cord - use a 20 or 30 amp plug in - practice, practice, practice - get the gas kit and use it! - don't go thicker than .030 wire.

Like several already said, don't waste your money on a 110 Mig. I know a bunch of people who got one and they have all regreted it.

With a 225 stick I can weld just about anything right down to 14 guage sheet.

That said, I do want a Mig, but when I get one it will be at least a 175amp 220volt with gas.

Originally posted by Titanium


If your gonna buy a stick machine, you want ac/dc. Dont waste the money on AC alone.

I have to agree, best proof of this is 7018 rod.

I agree with the majority on this, the 110V MIG units aren't worth the bother. Spend a little more and get a 220V/175A unit. A Hobbart 175 seems to go in the $600 range. You can skip the gas for now if you have to, but you can get a tank for less than $100. The 175 comes with the regulator so all you need is a tank with gas in it and you're set to go. The only setup required is to attach the tank and turn it on. Make sure to switch to solid wire as well. ;) It's cheaper anyway.

As for the 220V problem, just build an extension cord. Make sure you get 10 AWG wire, 3 conductor for the cord, most of the time it will say 10/3 on the package. The voltage and plug type don't matter. The insulation on normal cords can withstand over 600V anyway. I recomend the slightly more expensive cords as they are more flexable, thus easier to wind up and store. Get the proper plug for your welder and the dryer outlet you have in your parent's place. Then chop off the ends of the extension cord and connect your new ends. It's really quite easy. White and Black are "hot" and green or bare is ground. Use a voltage probe if you want to be sure. You can get one for about $5 that should work fine. The two hot wires should show 240V to each other, and either hot wire to ground should be 120V. I use a 100' 10AWG cord and have no problems welding 1/4". I acutally had to turn my Lincoln SP-175T down a notch as I was overheating the base metal.

Originally posted by mike

best proof of this is 7018 rod.

If you know how to burn 7018 rod, you'll never have to wonder if it'll hold or not, this is IMHO very strong shit if you know how to use it. Auto applications tend to favour the 3/32 rod but i also keep some 1/8 rods handy. A mig would be CONVENIENT but the stick has integrity. I dont do body work so i dont need a mid, thats the way I look at it. :D

Originally posted by ttabbal
As for the 220V problem, just build an extension cord. Make sure you get 10 AWG wire, 3 conductor for the cord, most of the time it will say 10/3 on the package. The voltage and plug type don't matter. The insulation on normal cords can withstand over 600V anyway. I recomend the slightly more expensive cords as they are more flexable, thus easier to wind up and store. Get the proper plug for your welder and the dryer outlet you have in your parent's place. Then chop off the ends of the extension cord and connect your new ends. It's really quite easy. White and Black are "hot" and green or bare is ground. Use a voltage probe if you want to be sure. You can get one for about $5 that should work fine. The two hot wires should show 240V to each other, and either hot wire to ground should be 120V...

Thanks for saving me the bother of typing this. When I was in grad school I made a similar cord, but it had a 220V female on one end and two 110V male plugs that went to different circuits, on opposite sides of the box. Ran a clothes drier, etc. that way for 4 years without incident, and sold it to another guy when I left.

I used to have a 110V mig, sold it (as others have said). Now I've just got an AC/DC stick welder. With 5/64" rod on DC I can weld sheet metal; body panels, exhaust, etc. My pickup box has cracked in a number of places and been stuck back together with it, and the entire exhaust system was welded up with it. I can turn it up and burn 1/4" rod to do heavy stuff also. Sure, I'd like to have a mig; stick isn't as convenient for the thin stuff, but the cost is very high for that convenience. A good AC/DC stick machine will allow you to do whatever you need to on your rig, and is well within your budget; but you're looking at well over a kilobuck for that capability with mig (by the time you add a big gas bottle, wire, etc.)

Originally posted by Titanium


If you know how to burn 7018 rod, you'll never have to wonder if it'll hold or not, this is IMHO very strong shit if you know how to use it. Auto applications tend to favour the 3/32 rod but i also keep some 1/8 rods handy. A mig would be CONVENIENT but the stick has integrity. I dont do body work so i dont need a mid, thats the way I look at it. :D


Wow, how the hell did you misread that? You commented that if you bought stick to get a AC/DC machine and NOT a AC only machine, I commented that the perfect proof of that was 7018 rod because it sucks to weld AC. Then you come up with this? WTF?

FWIW I've had multiple machines, and had points where I could choose from most processes. At the moment I only have a MIG box. Does everything I want, but of course I can spray arc with it. Next purchase is a good TIG, that'll gimme SMAW anyway. and best bang for the buck first machine I went with SMAW, and would again.

Originally posted by mike



Wow, how the hell did you misread that? You commented that if you bought stick to get a AC/DC machine and NOT a AC only machine, I commented that the perfect proof of that was 7018 rod because it sucks to weld AC. Then you come up with this? WTF?


WTF ? You can weld 7018AC with an AC type 7018 and it works fine.... and in DC it works mint. What did i misread ? If you go to a welders supply and ask for 7018 you get a DC rod, unless you ask for the AC........ And quit stickin a stick in my spokes :flipoff2:

And "sucks" would be the difference between "fine" and "mint". Hell man, I was agreeing with you. I'll stop that now, it must suprise ya :D :beer:

Originally posted by mike
I'll stop that now, it must suprise ya :D :beer:

One of these days mike, im gonna drive all the way down there to kick ur ass........... and hit a trail or 2 :flipoff2:

Originally posted by RHINO
if you really dont want to weld bigger stuff, i mean really really shure you wont, then get a millermatic 130, its 110 power and a good little machine, you can have it complete with bottle and ready to go for about $650 out the door. you could go a bit cheaper but you end up with things like cheasy plastic drives and aluminum windings which dont run as smooth.
also if your shure you wont be doing big stuff, dont bother with a stick machine, get a small mig and be happy.

i agree i have miller matic 130 i run flux core .o35 wire.. i do lots of welding with it.. u need at least a 20 amp circuit to do ,uch welding on the highest power setting..i got the smaller machine when i was still young and didnt have my own place where i would always have acess to a 220 line..i have a friend who has a linclon machine and he says the miller is much better than his,,if u want to stay 110 at least get a good machine..u will meed all the power its got..most of the cheaper welders will not have as good a duty cycle as miller...


bomb ass 110 welder will out weld cheap ass 220 175 amp hobart (http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&tool=all&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=12617&PartNo=MM140SL&Price=2%2C595.00&ListPrice=2%2C595.00&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Welder%2C+%22Muscle+Mig%22+Wire+Feed&SUB_Cat_ID=1321062&SUB_Cat_NAME=Snap-On+Muscle+Mig+%2F+Mig+Wire+Feed+Welders&Cat_ID=1321061&Cat_NAME=Welding&group_id=1736&group_NAME=Snap-on+Muscle+MIG+Welders&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

Originally posted by OTTERGONEJPN

bomb ass 110 welder will out weld cheap ass 220 175 amp hobart (http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&tool=all&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=12617&PartNo=MM140SL&Price=2%2C595.00&ListPrice=2%2C595.00&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Welder%2C+%22Muscle+Mig%22+Wire+Feed&SUB_Cat_ID=1321062&SUB_Cat_NAME=Snap-On+Muscle+Mig+%2F+Mig+Wire+Feed+Welders&Cat_ID=1321061&Cat_NAME=Welding&group_id=1736&group_NAME=Snap-on+Muscle+MIG+Welders&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

Geez, lets all line up and get raped by snap-on :eek:

Originally posted by RFR2212


Why? I personally dont want to go and pay for a 220v plug myself, when i have no intention to weld anything that is going to need a welder that big. If i do need to weld something that big, it'll be done elsewhere, with a much more expirenced hand. Now, 300 bucks is just an optimal goal... I'm fully aware that i doubt i'll get anything this cheap that is good, but just tryin to be optimistic. I do want some other smaller presents too! ;) 400-500 is more what I'm expecting, but 500 is pushing it... At least cause my parents have been good for fronting me cash for my projects and yes i've payed em back, but i don't want to tax them with some heavy present, since they've given me alot so far, and this doesn't even inclue the funding for college, so i'm looking for something that'll do 3/8's average mild steel... something that won't be huge cost for them and I'll get benifit out of... Now other welders are fine... besides mig.... i've only used mig, and did okay for what i did.... please, just looking for suggestions and all options!
Pete If you want cheap utility, get a stick welder that uses 220 and get wired for 220. Ask for the welder and the wiring for Christmas. If there's a 220 volt electric drier near where you want the 220 drop for a wleder, it may not be all that expensive to get an electrician out to do the job.

I can do so much with a stick I sometimes amaze myself. I bought a cheapo 110 wire feed and outgrew it's usefulness in less than 6 months. Leads are too short and you can't make it work right with an extension cord. Seems like every time I have a little project that the wire feed would be appropriate for, I can't get the project close enough to a 110 outlet. The only reason I bought it was (at the time) I needed a welder that could run from a generator so I could build a steel frame shed at a very remote location. It barely got me through that job. What a waste of money. It sux so bad that, when welding sheetmetal (which I seldom have need for), I'd rather fight with teeny rods and a low amp setting on my AC stick welder than pull out the wire feed.

Of course it could just be an operator problem :D But I did take the wire feed to the welding supply house (they do repairs too). Bought a new liner and watched the "expert" try to run a bead with my welder. He did marginally better than me. He tweaked every little thing he could think of to make it "right."

Oh yeah, I almost never weld 3/8" thick stock. Not sure this is a good goal for you. 1/4" single-pass might be better, maybe even 3/16" single-pass. If your thinking about cage welding, .120 wall tubing translates to just under 1/8" thick.

I'll disagree with the majority here (big surprise). I have a 220v Solar mig, a cheapie noname 110/220v AC buzzbox, and a lincoln weldpac 100 flux/mig 110v. I use them all, and like each for different stuff. The buzzbox is great for out of position welding, which I suck at with the migs. The 220v mig is great for almost everything, and will do full penetration at 1/4". The 110 is great for small projects, for dragging out to the jeep to tack stuff, and will do 1/8" cleanly. If you want a welder, a 110v jobbie is cheapish and easy to run almost everywhere. Welds with the flux core wire aren't pretty, but useful for when you don't want to drag a bottle out with you. get what you (r parents) can afford, weld like crazy with it, and show that you'll actually use it and it'll make it a lot easier to convince the 'rents that you could use a 220 machine.

whodat

Well thank you to all! I thank you for the imput and thoughts... Assuming I can get a 220 line put into the garage... Looks like I'm gonna try for a Hobart 175.. Although as of now, I don't need that much, I figure:
1. I enjoy nice tools :)
2. I want quality!
3. Who knows what I'm going to be welding in a year.


Between you guys and a few other sites, all rests on getting a 220 line now...

Might as well suck it up, and do it right, the first time :)
Thanks again, and I'll let all know what ends up happening!
Pete

just picked up my millermatic 175 w cart, bottle and 11 pound of wire. $835 total

how do you like the miller 175? i have one too....but it's in my apartment closet(in college, getting house soon with garage :)) just wondering how you liked it and how good it welds....
greg
btw, i have a 75/25 bottle as well...no more flux cored for me, i hate that stuff!

Originally posted by bignissan
i have a 75/25 bottle as well...no more flux cored for me, i hate that stuff!

Too bad, thats the good stuff. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by bignissan
how do you like the miller 175? i have one too....but it's in my apartment closet(in college, getting house soon with garage :)) just wondering how you liked it and how good it welds....
greg
btw, i have a 75/25 bottle as well...no more flux cored for me, i hate that stuff!

mine is sitting in my closet until saturday. have 80/20 bottle

Originally posted by RFR2212


Between you guys and a few other sites, all rests on getting a 220 line now...



Putting in a 220V circuit is not rocket science.

It is really easy if your service box is at your garage so you won't have to snake the lines to run the circuit.

First find out if you have room in your box for another 2 pole breaker. Then call your local building code department and find out what the code requirements are. Go buy the parts and wire and get a book on wiring from the library. Then wire it up (two black wires are hot, one white wire is neutral and green is ground) and plug the breaker into the box and you are done. It is a good idea to have your local building code department inspect it so that your insurance will cover it.

It took me about 1 hour and $35 to install my 50A 220V circuit.

Ok weld gurus. I got a 100 amp welder for Christmas from the inlaws a few years ago. It's ac only. I have run a dedicated 20 amp line to my garage,replaced the L-cheapo cord with a heavy one, and replaced the leads. This greatly improved the performance of the welder. I was never satisfied with it but it was a gift. But it does work. Just has ugly welds. I'm looking for a place on the net that I can read the basics and try to improve the welds. They are strong but very ugly. I am getting a 220 unit from my buddy as soon as he gets his ass in gear and gets it here. I need to improve. I have been welding a while and weld at work sometimes. Til I get the real welder this is what I got. Any one have any good links to share.

Well, looks like I'm gonna be gettin myself a hobart 175 :D 220 line goes in monday once i'm home...

Oh, what size breaker thingy should be in the line?
30a?
40a?
50a?

I couldn't find anything on the hobart site, but i very easily coulda missed it
thanks again
Pete

Look at the primary amps on the MIG box and size your breaker above that...
Example: Primary amps "30"......Put in a 40 amp breaker..

Originally posted by RFR2212
Well, looks like I'm gonna be gettin myself a hobart 175 :D 220 line goes in monday once i'm home...

Oh, what size breaker thingy should be in the line?
30a?
40a?
50a?

I couldn't find anything on the hobart site, but i very easily coulda missed it
thanks again
Pete


Check the specs on the welder. I would guess that it probably has a max draw of 19.5 amps. They do that so that a 175 can run in an old home with a 20amp 220v circuit. I would say that for a 175, a 30 amp breaker should be fine. I run my Miller 175 on a 20amp circuit with out any issue.