99xj, blah blah, auto-4.0, 6" short arm, blah blah...
just built the new crossmember for long arms, built most of the long arms, and havent installed yet.
ordered 8.5" coils, purchased dakota rear springs, going to bastard pack and lift block for now...
Questions:
Dana 300, Do i really need the clocking ring? does it only interfere with the exhaust mount if i dont use it...?

Next, Gears, im looking to run 38" rubbers. ive got an 8.8 beside the jeep.
what are your reccomendations for r/p ratios? Rumored that some r/p gears become weaker with ratio increase, is this true with the 30?

Finally, Shocks. who what where? reccomendations... because the 30 is temp. is there a hokey-pokey option for cheap?
strict budget here... building parts right, on a cheap jeep to toss later and move well built parts to the next one... i just dont want to invest in the wrong shit.
http://<a href="http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x275/imajeep/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x275/imajeep/IMAG0020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Dont even bother with the 38's on the 30. But 33's till you ca afford a 60.

Check out the NON hardcore section.

yea... might as well run an empty tube on 38"s if you are sticking with the 30. the 30 can only go to 4.88 and thats not enough for 38"s.

even an 8.8 isn't going to hold up for long. go for a 60 or 14bt rear and a 60 front... gear as deep as you can...5.38 minimum, deeper if you can.

with 8.5" springs you are going to need some 14" stroke shocks at least. shouldn't matter what axle you run since mounts can be made and put on any....

If you just want to drive this thing on the streets and you are staying off the trails then 488s on your 30 will get you by. But you are going to be throwing your money away if you are wanting to build this thing into a trail rig at some point, and I assume you are. It's best to wait and do it right the first time especially if you are on a budget. Buying things twice gets expensive.

99xj, blah blah, auto-4.0, 6" short arm, blah blah...
just built the new crossmember for long arms, built most of the long arms, and havent installed yet.
ordered 8.5" coils, purchased dakota rear springs, going to bastard pack and lift block for now...
Questions:
Dana 300, Do i really need the clocking ring? does it only interfere with the exhaust mount if i dont use it...?

Next, Gears, im looking to run 38" rubbers. ive got an 8.8 beside the jeep.
what are your reccomendations for r/p ratios? Rumored that some r/p gears become weaker with ratio increase, is this true with the 30?

Finally, Shocks. who what where? reccomendations... because the 30 is temp. is there a hokey-pokey option for cheap?
strict budget here... building parts right, on a cheap jeep to toss later and move well built parts to the next one... i just dont want to invest in the wrong shit.
http://<a href="http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x275/imajeep/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x275/imajeep/IMAG0020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Finish Long Arm Kit, cancel the 8.5" Springs and get 6.5" at most. Remove as much sheet metal as possible. Don't put another $ into the D30. Continue running it the way are and save, save, save and get a 14 bolt 60 combo. If you plan on running 38's your gonna need tons. Also, scratch the lift blocks with whatever tire your running. I have an anti-wrap and destroyed 2 sets of leaves without blocks. Do your self a favor and do some frame plating up front and frame stiffners.

http://www.liquidironindustries.com/product.php?productid=17855&cat=0&page=0&featured=Y

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=291

agreed with everyone else, If you have a limited budget, stick with the 33's build your 8.8, do 4.56's and lockers front and rear, you'll be surprised how far that setup will get you. also finish up your long arms, you'll love the flex and the improvement in ride quality.

like most everyone here, I have learned the hard way, that you're better off saving up for a good set of axles before you put a huge lift and tires on that are way too big in the first place.

Don't get 38's until your jeep is truly ready for them, and that means a well built suspension, and 1 ton axles.

Get 36" tires and run 6.5" lift. 38s are way too big for that axle. Just don't lock the Dana 30 and carry spare shafts.

The Dana 300 is a passenger side output dude (like a CJ) gotta flip it upside down to get it to work with a Dana 30 with a driver side diff.

You might be able to get away with finding an 8.8 with 4.10s for the rear axle, then only have to buy gears for the front, 4.10s aren't ideal but it's an option to save loot. If u have the money, get 4.88s for front & rear... You definitely must replace the stock rear axle with an 8.8 from a disc brake late 90s Explorer.

I don't agree with the "stick with 33's" and not everyone needs 60's. All depends on the wheelin. You can run a 35 or a 37 on a HP30. I had a locked d30 on everything from a 31 to a 37 tire and gears from 3.55 to 4.88. Swapped that axle from rig to rig over maybe 12 years and only broke 2 or 3 ujoints and maybe one or 2 shafts. Spare d30 shafts are WAY cheaper than a front 60. You can, as others said, save for bigger and build it over time while still having fun with the rig.

I have a 60 now but sheesh....60's aren't the only option out there. Why not just go straight to rocks?:p

I don't agree with the "stick with 33's" and not everyone needs 60's. All depends on the wheelin. You can run a 35 or a 37 on a HP30. I had a locked d30 on everything from a 31 to a 37 tire and gears from 3.55 to 4.88. Swapped that axle from rig to rig over maybe 12 years and only broke 2 or 3 ujoints and maybe one or 2 shafts. Spare d30 shafts are WAY cheaper than a front 60. You can, as others said, save for bigger and build it over time while still having fun with the rig.

I have a 60 now but sheesh....60's aren't the only option out there. Why not just go straight to rocks?:p

:laughing:

i know what drop the 300 is... ... and the deal with the 38's is that ive already got a set....

the issue with the 300 is clocking... i know ive got to flip it, and shift linkage is not a real issue for me,
Do i need the ring?

i get the axle thing too... the 30 is a mess, i get it... ive got larger optioins, but no 60 yet... and im happy unlocked up front.
seems like a good place to start until i find something bigger..
havent seen much better with a d44 tho.. and 60 is a ways down the road.

i value the input climbit.
seems like everyone is go big or go home these days. and im just not in the financial market to pull off an additional thousand dollar invest in this thing right now

I know how you feel... I would run 37"s on an HP30 with some Chromo inner and outers, a warn hub conversion would be nice... but then you are into money again... damn this sport.

going to a 44 is more like a sidegrade than an upgrade if you are going to spend the time doing an axle swap may as well get something better.

run that 30 and hunt around for something in the classifieds and at the JY

I wouldn't bother going above 6" of lift unless you want to do a lot of deep mudbogging. just hack them fenders up :smokin:

just throwing it out there, but people are finding pretty inexpensive d50's out there, and they're more of an upgrade then a 44 and not as pricey as a 60, maybe worth a look?

i know they're not a 60 but hey, if he's thinking about building a 30, might as well gear and lock something a little stronger for a 250$ d50...

Your 30 will flat not survive 38's. It just wont. Forget shafts breaking and joints, with 38's you'll be looking at ring and pinion failure and housing issues. If you wheel it hard, which I would hope with 38's, odds are not in your favor of the tube and housing straying straight for long. Knuckle failure isnt too far fetched either.

35-36 can get you just as far as 38's if you wheel smart. Sell your 38's and downsize or simply upgrade your axle. A 44 will be better but is a waste IMHO. I personally compeltly destroyed a 44 in 8 months on 38 SX's. A D50 as suggested from a 99-04 F250 or excursion wouldnt be bad. But in the case of that axle, you more less have a 60 housing with 44 internals and you cant upgrade to 60 internals. Ist seriously beefy tho. I would think it should handle 38's like a champ. BUT.... A 60 really is the way to go.

Have you considered just saving till you can do it right? 33's are fun really. Tear them up till you can afford to do appropriate upgrades for your desired tire.

And yes you need the ring. There like 80 bucks man...if your stiff up for that, maybe you should reconsider what your doing....

EDIT: My 8.8 actually handled 38's well, however I knew if I kept beating on it the way I was....it wouldnt have lasted much longer. Just something to think about...

no prob with the ring for the 300... was just looking to see if it was necessary.

ive been on 33's and such for some time now... it really isnt getting me where i want to go.
i really think the answer is in the 36 neighborhood... but like i said, ive got these.
im thinking a 60 is possible next summer.
ive got access to a 10 bolt 3-4 ton job with 8 lug pattern out of a chev...'

thoughts on those..?
ive heard they are no better than a 44, which imho is no better than a 30
so i just dunno.