Having a rear full float (from a corp 14 bolt) reverse D60 built... a standard D60 full float has no inner oil seals - only outers (wheel bearings are lubed by the gear oil). What is the go when you swap in a high pinion D60 centre section? stick with the no inner seals, or go inner seals and grease the wheel bearings?

FYI... 35 spline, 0.5" wall axel tubes, 4.88, detroit, full float rear, disk brakes. D60 up front to match. On a TJ, Atlas 4.3, 38.5 SX's.

Shane fron Australia.

I say go without them. I put the Warn floater kit in my 44, and my buddy put one in his 60.(60 rear from a Ford F-250) Niether of them have inner seals. The only problem we are having with this setup is that the locking hubs leak a bit. The floater kit comes with seals that go into the spindles that would fix this, but we just live with it. I like the fact that the wheel bearings get the oil. After a rubicon trip that involved a few deep water crossing due to the melted snow (Memorial Day weekend), I wanted to repack the wheel bearings. The water got into the fronts and ruined some of the bearings, but the backs were fine.

Just omit the inner seals, I'd think. The only reason I might keep them is if you did pack the bearings, but wanted to keep water out of the diff. I guess bearings are cheaper/easier to replace than gears & lockers if you frequently water log the axle.

Bryan

I run a 60 rear with the warn FF kit. I also run inner oil seals. It came to me that way so I ran it. I made sure that I packed the hell out of the bearing in grease though. With the full floater kit came some literature from Warn..."to oil or not to oil that is the question" Anyways I thought Warn did a good job of presenting the pros and cons of having oil in the hubs. Oh ya BTW the hubs suck. I broke two sets of them. Got drive flanges and never had another problem. Give Warn a call and have them send you some info on it.

I converted a front high pinion 60 to a rear full floater.
I re-tubed using a standard 60 as a donor for its tubes, spindles and hubs.
No inner seals, just the ones on the hub assembly. ;)

Thanks all.

I am not running locking hubs - running a full float setup from a corp 14 bolt, so shouldn't have the leakage problem.

I know that alot of standard (low pinion) diffs run with outer seals only... but a high pinion diff holds more oil (higher fill point), so would a high pinion full float conversion mean that you would use a crap load more oil and end up filling the entire tubes?

doctor_G: how much oil does your rear setup take? When you change the diff oil how do you empty the tubes? Or is this not an issue.

I think I will go without the inner seals, but want to be sure I know what I am in for.