So, I'm swapping tons into my MJ this winter. I race in ECORS for what thats worth. I am cutting the front Chevy 60 down to approx 65" to match the CnC 14 Bolt rear I'm running.
Specs are:
90 MJ 118" wheelbase, 3 link front, hydro assist
60 pass drop, narrowed to 65"/14 Bolt Cab and chassis combo
coils front with Ballistic XJ bracket kit, leafs rear
231/300 doubler
39 Reds on 9" beadlocks w/ 4" backspacing

So, my question is...Im gonna narrow the front to 65" to match the rear. Before someone says it, I know the rear is 63", I like a slightly narrower rear axle for maneuvering. I am also gonna do a cut and turn on the inner "C"'s for caster/pinion angle. So, this got me thinking, I could cut both C's off flush with the back of the C and then cut the tube out of the inside of the C, when I re-install them (as part of the cut and turn) I will be right at the width I want. Make sense?
I was gonna cut the long side 5",(for proper width) pop the C back on where I wanted it (for caster, relative to pinion angle) and then attempt to grind the short side C weld and attempt to correct the caster/pinion angle with whatever means needed (bfh, home made press, etc). But if I can just cut both C's off and still end up with my desired width, why not?
My only concern is in packaging. Am I better off with a D60 front with, let's say, 5" off the long side, or 2.5" off each side for packaging? I'm thinking having the short side over towards the pass side a little more will help with driveshaft packaging.Im running an unflipped 300 behind a 231 doubler. By cutting the short side as well, this will allow more driveshaft room by placing the pinion further outboard.
Basically, what's the best way to attain 65" Dana 60 axle width in an XJ/MJ with coils? 5" off the long or 2.5" off each side?
Thanks

I would just remove the C by grinding, pull it off, then trim the tubes down.
Why do you wanna run a Chevy LP 60?

I have the 60, geared and locked already. Cant defeat that logic. For my build plans, LP60 will be fine.

My real concern is how far towards the pass side can I place the center section w/o issues. If I cut the long side only, (and cut/turn both the C's) the chunk will be more centered. If I cut both sides at the C's and narrow/cut/turn that way, the chunk will be more towards the pass side than if I ONLY cut the long side.

I am cutting/turning the C's either way. My question is more in regards to narrowing all on one side or equal amounts on both.

I'm about to go through the same thing( but a dodge 60) but I cut out the uniframe and built a 2x3 boxed frame. One thing will you have enough tube on the passenger side to mount a coil bracket if you cut both sides?

I figured that the best way is to get the axle under the rig at full width and measure it, then move it over( to the pass side) what your going to trim and jack it up to full stuff and see if you have clearance between the diff and everything. No matter what anybody says I'd still do this to make sure it'll clear.

Stu

. One thing will you have enough tube on the passenger side to mount a coil bracket if you cut both sides?



I can/will cut into the center section enough to mount the coil mount if needed.

I would remove the desired amount from the long side of the axle and leave the short side alone as far as width goes, this would leave you more room for mounting things and you would only need to get 1 axle cut or made to work with what you remove

Thought about the shaft issue as well. It would save some coin to only need 1 custom shaft. Gonna check and see if there would be any OE applications.

So, I'm swapping tons into my MJ this winter. I race in ECORS for what thats worth. I am cutting the front Chevy 60 down to approx 65" to match the CnC 14 Bolt rear I'm running.
Specs are:
90 MJ 118" wheelbase, 3 link front, hydro assist
60 pass drop, narrowed to 65"/14 Bolt Cab and chassis combo
coils front with Ballistic XJ bracket kit, leafs rear
231/300 doubler
39 Reds on 9" beadlocks w/ 4" backspacing

So, my question is...Im gonna narrow the front to 65" to match the rear. Before someone says it, I know the rear is 63", I like a slightly narrower rear axle for maneuvering. I am also gonna do a cut and turn on the inner "C"'s for caster/pinion angle. So, this got me thinking, I could cut both C's off flush with the back of the C and then cut the tube out of the inside of the C, when I re-install them (as part of the cut and turn) I will be right at the width I want. Make sense?
I was gonna cut the long side 5",(for proper width) pop the C back on where I wanted it (for caster, relative to pinion angle) and then attempt to grind the short side C weld and attempt to correct the caster/pinion angle with whatever means needed (bfh, home made press, etc). But if I can just cut both C's off and still end up with my desired width, why not?
My only concern is in packaging. Am I better off with a D60 front with, let's say, 5" off the long side, or 2.5" off each side for packaging? I'm thinking having the short side over towards the pass side a little more will help with driveshaft packaging.Im running an unflipped 300 behind a 231 doubler. By cutting the short side as well, this will allow more driveshaft room by placing the pinion further outboard.
Basically, what's the best way to attain 65" Dana 60 axle width in an XJ/MJ with coils? 5" off the long or 2.5" off each side?
Thanks

i would cut more off short side so the pinion can be pushed to the passenger side a few inches, i have same setup almost done, and with 4 inch uptravel on about 5 inches lift it gets tight but not bad, fine for me but if you are racing and want more uptravel push it passenger more.

i would cut more off short side so the pinion can be pushed to the passenger side a few inches, i have same setup almost done, and with 4 inch uptravel on about 5 inches lift it gets tight but not bad, fine for me but if you are racing and want more uptravel push it passenger more.

The more I think about it, that will be the way to go. This way I gain much needed clearance around the starter for the driveshaft.

I'd love to see some pics once the axle has been shortened. I have the same 231/300 non flipped in my YJ with a CJ width 9" front axle, and the driveshaft is way close to the bell housing limiting my up travel. I am hunting a cheap local D60 now with the same idea you have.

I'd love to see some pics once the axle has been shortened. I have the same 231/300 non flipped in my YJ with a CJ width 9" front axle, and the driveshaft is way close to the bell housing limiting my up travel. I am hunting a cheap local D60 now with the same idea you have.

I'll start a build thread as soon as a couple of more parts arrive for the build. Looks like I'll sleve the pass side and cut/turn the C. Gonna cut the driver's tube down 4" and cut/turn the C.

Any particular reason you aren't considering using a fabricated 9" housing with your inner C's welded on?

You are already going low pinion...

I am just finishing up a D60 swap in my XJ, and I would have been MUCH better off with a 9" housing.

Slap it under and figure out where it fits better.

Any particular reason you aren't considering using a fabricated 9" housing with your inner C's welded on?

You are already going low pinion...

I am just finishing up a D60 swap in my XJ, and I would have been MUCH better off with a 9" housing.

Haven't given that a thought but 8 lug 35 spline outers to match the rear that I have to swap, ditching the 8.8.

I have the 60, already geared and all new everything. Only needs narrowed. If I was starting from scratch,I would think about building a fabbed 9.

this is my ford d60 out of 93 f350. I took and cut both inner c's off with a cutting wheel about 1/8 of an inchin from the weld. heat and beat them off cleaned off the weld on the drivers side and cut approx. 3 3/8 out of the passenger side, this pic is from last week. I just have to set the pinion angel and caster angel and heat the khuckels and weld them on
first inner c removed
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/889565/fullsize/100_5020.jpg
both off
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/889566/fullsize/100_5022.jpg
long tube cut and welds cleaned up
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/889567/fullsize/100_5023.jpg
this is with inner c's back on missing pass axle shaft (to long)
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/889569/fullsize/100_5025.jpg

I shortened mine so it was the same track as the back' 65 3/8" I cut 3 and 3/8 inches off the pass. side