:laughing:
:laughing:

I know, I know, these things suck, but mine has 16K on it and I need to make it work.

Right now I have a Fireball Electronic Ignition and a Weber 32/36 on it.

Frankly it runs like crap. Slow and I can't get the carb adjusted out right.

I am thinking about having Jim C rebuild the Aisin that was on it and adding the Non-USA distributor to it.

What do you think? Is it worth it or should I just save my nickles and make the current setup work?

Any other tricks-of-the-trade to make these things work better without a rebuild?

Nolen,
I have a stock (internally) F motor with 160K miles on it and it runs like a champ and actually does okay towing(even with 3.70:1 thirds) a trailer with my boat on it or even the occasional parts truck and trailer.

I run a rebuilt carb(stock aisin), a man-a-fre FJ55 header, and a non US distributor with Pertronix and an accel coil. I SWEAR by the pertronix. No adjusting, no wearing out, no points to get corroded. I adjust the timing about 2-3 degrees more advance than the manual specifys, and if it pings, retard it with the adjust knob.

The truck got 16-17 mpg average across the country and back, 6,000 miles round trip, with an easy 500+ lbs load in the back.

-Brett

Nolen,
Do you need a Non USA distirbutor?

I have a brand new SOR piece in my shop.

Let me know......:p

Couple of more thigs: Shitcan the Weber or put a new one on it, they wear out very quickly and the casting is crappy. and make sure the cam gear to distributor gear does not have a lot of slop. Some I have seen had terrible wear and tons of timing slop due to it.

So you use the non-USA destibutor and then swap out the internals with Petronix stuff?

I'd second running the stock carb and Eric Chandler (I have heard) does a good job as well (he is in Texas, like Austin now??). With the miles on the F, you should be able to get it to run well. I have not had a Pertronix, but I only hear good things about the system. Another system to look at is valve adjustment. A mechanic I know in Tucson believes all running quality begins with optimal valve adjustment on an F. Old school factory toyota mechanics believe the you can balance a penny on edge on the valve cover with a properly adjusted valve train. Who knows.

just don't spend too much money on it.....

Throw the Weber in the trash. Rebuild the stock carb & it should work fine.
Cruiserbrett, 16-17 MPG average sounds incredible for a 6. WOW.

High performance and F motor is an oxymoron.

I think that the problem is that the LT-1 has you spoiled. Just tune it up and save your money to get some hippy beads and rose colored sun glasses. Spark up, kick back and imagine that you are in a VW bus. :smokin:

Originally posted by Pin Head
High performance and F motor is an oxymoron.

I think that the problem is that the LT-1 has you spoiled. Just tune it up and save your money to get some hippy beads and rose colored sun glasses. Spark up, kick back and imagine that you are in a VW bus. :smokin:

ROTFLMAO!!!!


Good one dude!

hey nolen, i just picked up that 350 horse vette motor, that should fix that f motor once and for all.

<edit>I just realized most of this doesn't make much sense so I'm editing it out a little for hopefully a little more clarity.

I ran that setup (Weber 32/36) in my last F powered Cruiser. Also, Rabid on this board and several others I know also run this same setup. If it's tuned and running right it will scream by your stock setup, you would **never know Rabid has his original (69?) F under his hood, but he also has headers too. But if I remember correctly I've dirven his truck both without headers and with and both times it knocked the socks off my Aisin powered 40, and his truck probably weighs in the 6000lb area. The big catch is getting the Weber tuned right. They do have a soft aluminum body and my theory is that if it's over 4 or 5 years old (and has the equivalent driven miles on it) then generally it needs a rebuild. Who knows with your given Weber. What I would do is do what the directions state when you first get a new Weber to start at square one. First, don't mess with your timing yet. From what I remember from the Weber directions, first turn in the mixture screw (small screw at base on valve cover side) all the way in until lightly seated, don't force. Then back out to 1 1/2 full turns out before starting. Then start it up, turn the screw as far in as you can before it starts bogging out then turn it back out a 1/4 turn and leave it. Then adjust your idle on the linkage. I can't remember how to adjust the high idle on those things. Then move onto timing.

For the Crane Cams unit, generally they are very reliable, like I said Rabid has had his for over 5 years without a hitch and I've run two of them on different 40s with Fs and 2Fs. They are about the same spark as a factory Toyota electronic ignition, so there is an advantage of going to Pertronix if you use the high output Pertonix unit, which is almost the same output as a HEI. But Crane Cams also makes a high output version and I think Pertronix and Crane Cams are actually both pretty comparable units. The XR700 (the cheaper Crane Cams unit you probably have, what Specter sells as a "points elimination kit") claims to require a ballast resistor if you are using the stock coil, some coils will work with it, some won't, and some will require a ballast resistor, some won't. Best luck I've had is with an FJ60 coil with no resistor. The best way to test to see if your coil is working (and your cap, rotor and wires) is to try your timing light on all cyls. If you have a fancy timing light, it won't flash correctly until you set it to 0 degress. The big catch on timing is that you need to have a good running carb before you can time it, but you generally set it right at 7D BTDC just like you would any other F or 2F engine, but if it's not running smoothly then it'll be hard to get right on. I scrapped my last Crane Cams unit because I thought it wasn't firing right, but it turned out to be the carb.

Good luck, if your carb is OK you could have a pretty sweet running, powerful and efficient setup.

Originally posted by Live Wire
Throw the Weber in the trash. Rebuild the stock carb & it should work fine.
Cruiserbrett, 16-17 MPG average sounds incredible for a 6. WOW.

I agree, it was shocking, but I have all the gas reciepts and milage records. It was 16.3 going east and 16.9 going west, and thats corrected for the bigger tires and 3.70:1 gears.

The pertronix is the way to go, just remove the stock points and install. I would use the pertronix coil as well.

I run the valve lash about .001"-.002" tighter than stock. Do it according to the Haynes manual works fine for me. All the plugs look good, too.

Here (http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/toyota.htm) is the cheapest place for the Pertronix I could find. The 1665 works fine in the Non-us dist, it is what I run. Build a god set of plug wires too.

-Brett

Holley and a header/2.5" exhaust....


I still have the one that I used in Moab if you want. And a Tri-Y header..
I can send them to you to try out of you like.

When I switched from the old exhaust to the header it made a worlds difference..

Nolan,
I also would be interested in your 32/36 if you decide to scrap it if it's in halfway decent condition. I also have a FJ60 Aisin (unfortunately designed for an air pump) but I might be acquiring a few non-smogged earlier Aisins that I may be able to trade.

Mace, hook a brutha up with the header....

Andre, I am going to send my Aisin to Jim C. and if it is a good one to rebuild I will sell you my Weber. It is brand new, 1 year and 1200 miles.

Originally posted by wngrog
Mace, hook a brutha up with the header....



What? No love for the holley??????

:confused:


Send me one of those fed ex shipper thingies...
(are you still having good luck with fed ex? They are still screwing up Butch's PS box. I think it is at Nellis AFB right now........):mad:

Nolen, I've been running the Pertronix setup in my non-US distributor for about 4 years, works great!

Originally posted by cruiserbrett


Here (http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/toyota.htm) is the cheapest place for the Pertronix I could find. The 1665 works fine in the Non-us dist, it is what I run. Build a god set of plug wires too.

-Brett

Ignitor 2 and a Flamethrower? Is that what I need?

Add this setup to a Non-USA Distributor?

What is the difference in that and this Fireball, ball of wires that I have on my stock Distributor?

Bear with me, I am REALLY a Newbie on this stuff......

just do what I do....don't touch it and just pray:D
So far it still runs...a few weeks ago I couldn't keep it running. It would just die every time I let off the clutch, and if I did get it to run and move, then I would have to keep it at atleast 2500RPMs....it did sound kewl though:flipoff2:...didn't touch it and now it works fine...or at least for a 1969 1F :rolleyes:

Joseph

Originally posted by TxCruzr
just do what I do....don't touch it and just pray:D
So far it still runs...a few weeks ago I couldn't keep it running. It would just die every time I let off the clutch, and if I did get it to run and move, then I would have to keep it at atleast 2500RPMs....it did sound kewl though:flipoff2:...didn't touch it and now it works fine...or at least for a 1969 1F :rolleyes:

Joseph

You guys got it all wrong. Just cause it's older and weaker it's expected to run like shit and not put out any power, but in truth the F is about 95% similar to a 2F. If you fix the running problems they are great engine, just as good as a 2F.

Nolen I can set you up with a Toyota electronic distr, I have a small cap version or the large cap style and I'll give you the side covers to match if you want that one........free, if someone has an igniter/coil assembly, IMHO a much better setup than the aftermarket stuff.
As far as the F, Andrea drove one in JJ's Nada, from age 15 to 20 and it always ran like a champ...............now when it went it did it with no warning, dropped a valve thru the top of #2 piston.
Kemper just left, had a huge steak and a few Shiner Bocks........big fun.
Butch

Originally posted by texican
Nolen I can set you up with a Toyota electronic distr, I have a small cap version or the large cap style and I'll give you the side covers to match if you want that one........free, if someone has an igniter/coil assembly, IMHO a much better setup than the aftermarket stuff.

Butch

Go with this!!! I run one of the stock electronic dists on my cruiser. Gotta love the waterproof aspect!!!
I never realized that they made a small cap stule :confused:

I think I have an ignitor somewhere although I am sure that at least one of the wires has been snipped. I pulled it off to run a Mallory hy fire ignition module. Thinking back I wish I had gone to an MSD but the Mallory has been flawless for ~10 years now so......

I should be able to find the ignitor tomorrow evening...

Thanks for all the help guys!

I have a ton of information to process, I appreciate it!

One question I still have, if I go with the Petronix with an Non-USA, do I get the Ignitor 1 or 2?

Nolen,
I went with the original ignitor as the #2 was not availible, but here (http://www.pertronix.com/ignition/ignitorII/index.htm) is a link to the site that explains it. I'd go with the #2 and might do that soon.

-Brett

Whats the difference between a non-US and a US dist? Size, year of production?:skull:

I run a factory ignition system over my Crane Cams but they are right around the same as far as performance. I would say the Toyota is probably a heck of a lot more reliable but generally both will work. If you've never done a dizzy install I would make sure you do it with someone who's done it before so you don't seize your engine. (ask me how I know that on an original F engine with 80,000 original miles). Or at a least make sure your oil pressure gauge is working first and if you don't see any on the gauge turn it off quick!

Toyota over a Pertronix setup I would probably take the Pertonix, but only if it's the higher output model. It will generally make your truck start easier, run smoother, deliver a significantly noticable amount of power (at least 10 HP over the points system), and will increase milage. If you buy the lower output model you'll basically be buying a setup comperable to what you already have, basically a "point elimination system" with mild power increase over the points, similar to if you are running a factory electronic ('78 and later) ignition.

If you run Pertonix or Crane Cams or Jacobs or whatever your aftermarket setup is, a non-USA won't do any good other than that it's easier to plumb because it's designed to work on modern engines that don't have emissions. There are plenty of suitable earlier USA spec that are vaccuum advance and just as easy to plumb, if not easier, including the distributor you may already have.

Finally, if you really want to fork down for the best ignition, I would go with a DUI or a different company that sells the HEI designed for the 2F. The avdance curve is much more suited to the F/2F than even the factory Toyota distributors which hill make is significantly more powerful than even a Pertronix distributor. Best of all no plumbing, literally one ignition activated wire, time it, and you're good to go.

Originally posted by dieselcruiserhead


If you run Pertonix or Crane Cams or Jacobs or whatever your aftermarket setup is, a non-USA won't do any good other than that it's easier to plumb because it's designed to work on modern engines that don't have emissions. There are plenty of suitable earlier USA spec that are vaccuum advance and just as easy to plumb, if not easier, including the distributor you may already have.


Not sure what you mean here:confused: Why would the non US distributor be no better than a stocker if you add pertronix??? The pertronix does not affect the vacuum or mechanical advance, as it simply replaces the points with a more efficient hall sensor. Also the early/non us dist have the external octane adjust, which I like, as I can adjust for pinging if I get really crappy gas. Part of the reason to go with the new Non US dist, is to replace an old, possible worn distributor to get a tighter more accurate spark.

Nolen, if you get your carb built by Jim C, he can add a vacuum port for the non us dist if it is not already present(most have appropriate porting)

-Brett

Originally posted by cruiserbrett


Not sure what you mean here:confused: Why would the non US distributor be no better than a stocker if you add pertronix??? The pertronix does not affect the vacuum or mechanical advance, as it simply replaces the points with a more efficient hall sensor. Also the early/non us dist have the external octane adjust, which I like, as I can adjust for pinging if I get really crappy gas. Part of the reason to go with the new Non US dist, is to replace an old, possible worn distributor to get a tighter more accurate spark.

Nolen, if you get your carb built by Jim C, he can add a vacuum port for the non us dist if it is not already present(most have appropriate porting)

-Brett

It been a couple years so I'm not up to date on distributor history but I used to know it a lot better. From what I recall F / 2F distributor history is: vaccuum retard from early-mid F, then there is a vaccuum advance model *that does* have a little knob for micro-timing adjustment, then it goes back to vaccuum retard for most of the early 70s, then back to vaccuum advance (in '78?) where it stays through the introduction of fuel injection. The best USA spec distributor for a desmogged engine I used was a late 60s model with the external micro-timing adjustment, mated with a Crane Cams ignition and points replacement system. It only had one hose which I hooked to the vaccuum port on my Weber, so it worked perfect.

Generally because F and 2F have an almost identical advance curve, I wouldn't imagine there would be a heck of a lot of difference in earlier USA and later model non-USA distributors other than the difference in electronics, from what I've heard the real advantage of the non-USA dizz is the emissions plumbing :confused:. So if you could have an earlier USA spec (read: typically cheaper) that you are going to scrap the internals for to put in Pertronix points elimination anyways then why buy an expensive non-USA model that already has Toyota electonic ignition just to scrap it, when both have similar advance curves? IIRC, the common problem with older distributors isn't due to poor spark from the cap and rotor, it's due to the points which need a fairly exact adjustment to function properly. I remember a key selling point of the Crane Cams points elimination is that it makes an old worn distributor much more exact because it no longer relies on points and uses it's own parts that aren't affected by the distributor's wear. I would think the biggest advantage of the non-USA would be the vaccuum port for a desmogged engine using the OEM electronic ignition (which is all compatible after '78, no matter what era). So you could have a quick and easy way to hook up a distributor with accurate vaccuum advance on a desmogged engine.

I am not up on my dist history either, but I think almost all the Non US distributors offered in the US at specter etc. are the points style, which was run throughout the world later than in the US... Plumbing any vacuum advance distributor for proper vacuum is simple. Run a vacuum line from the vacuum advance canister on the dist, to the correct port on the carb and youre set, so easy plumbing of the dist would be more a function of having the correct port on the carb, which may or may not be there.

Also, distributor wear is normally not a concern with the parts that a crane or pertronix setup is replacing if you keep the points adjusted. This is all they replace. Distributors wear in the gear that mates with the cam, the advance mechanisms(tired springs,worn out bushings on the flyweights, etc), the upper shaft(where the rotor slides on) wearing on the lower shaft, and of course the bushings in pre 80's L/C dists. All these wear points affect timing regardless of points or not.

I agree, though, a non us dist(with the good mech and vac advance curve) with the oem electronic pickup would be about a good as you could get without getting a ECM controlled advance curve.

Ranger, I happen to know of a non-USA (read: vacuum advance) points-style distributor (7 months used since it was rebuilt) that is not going to get used...I'm going to HEI, and it would make a perfect pertronix doner...I was either going to use it as a spare or leave it at Mark's...

Originally posted by cruiserbrett
I am not up on my dist history either, but I think almost all the Non US distributors offered in the US at specter etc. are the points style, which was run throughout the world later than in the US... Plumbing any vacuum advance distributor for proper vacuum is simple. Run a vacuum line from the vacuum advance canister on the dist, to the correct port on the carb and youre set, so easy plumbing of the dist would be more a function of having the correct port on the carb, which may or may not be there.

That's if the distributor is earlier than a '79. In 79 when Cruisers became universally smogged there are two vaccuum ports on the dizz's canister, and two ports on the cap itself that go (iirc) to the air cleaner assembly. This is for FJ40s and 60s. If I remember correctly '72 and later Cruisers have some sort of emissions device that controls fuel vapors as well as the vaccuum for the distributor, or a combination of both. Plumbing a non-USA or the distributor I mentioned (with one hose) into a carb with one hose, designed for a port on the carb, is indeed easy. It's when you run into later more complicated vaccuum and other plumbing that USA spec distributors start having issues. But if your smogging is still in place and fully functional, you can simply replace the points with the Pertronix or Crane Cams and have a fully functional system.

Seems like the distributor I mentioned and the non-USA are pretty similar. They also have nice smaller heads that fit into all models. Nice points on the wear of a distributor, all very good things to take into account.

Originally posted by TheDragoneater
Ranger, I happen to know of a non-USA (read: vacuum advance) points-style...
That depends on the year. Most are actually vaccuum retard.

Non-US distributors will have a different curve than later distributors on rigs that used an EGR.
On a truck that originally had an EGR system, the distributor will be more advanced in the middle of the curve to account for the inert gas being introduced into the combustion process (exhaust). If you desmog this rig, you will usually get pinging during cruise or moderate acceleration. A non-US distributor will get you a better curve for a desmog situation.
But, if you have a later rig with factory electronic ignition, a better setup will be to have the stock distributor re-curved to work on a system without EGR. Jim C. does this.

So my suggestion to the original question would be to get a later factory electronic distributor and send it to Jim Chenoweth for re-curve. Then you have a fully electronic ignition that is waterproof and curved for your vehicle.

Mine's vac advance AND retard...kind of a distributor bastard child, I guess. It was actually a warrenty replacement for a replacement distributor I blew the roll pin on in January...Blew the pin on this one, too, and found out that Toyota put a solid pin on the distributors from the factory.

If it helps any, Schuck's around here lists it (and the parts for it) as being a Canadian spec distributor. Takes them a week to get me a cap and rotor. but other than the delay, parts are available no problem.

Biggest problem is that you need to run a non-stock carburator to make the advance work. Later, smog-ified 2F carbs can be mated to earlier engines with an adapter plate, and as early as '77 USA carbs have vacuum for advance. Weber carbs have advance, too, I've been told.

Hey Nolan, Eric Chandler does a fine rebuild on the aisin carbs, for like $60 last time I used him. Ping me for contact info if you care to. I also would recommend the toyota late model elec dist and coil that Butch was trying to give you. Can't beat toyota quality, and the price is right. With the later model version you do have to go to a different pushrod inspection cover, but hey, that's just a good excuse to fix yours, you know it's leaking. I have heard a lot of folks give the pertronix a thumbs up. Hope all's well down there, and I enjoyed the kitty pix. Alan in tornadoalley

My personal experience from my street rodding days is that "high performance" ignitions gave me absolutely no improvement in my 1/4 mi ETs in an otherwise stock engine. It was only when I got into engines that would rev reliably above 6,500 RPM that there was a difference. Save your money and look for performance elswhere.

I have been running the Pertronix 2, Non-US distributor, and MSD for a couple of years. I have no complaints at all. My F has I don't know how many miles on it. Those ignition upgrades and a valve adjustment made a world of difference. The Weber 38 sucks gas like no tomorrow though.

I was surfing around and found this page on Jeff Zepp's page about different model years of distributors and their advantages / disadvantages. It's not exact but can be a guide, it's a conversation between him and Jim C.
http://jeffzepp.cruiserpages.com/tech/jimcdist.htm

On another note, I found a good condition Weber 32/36 that I traded someone some parts for in exchange for it. My Weber 38/38 actually ran OK other than being grossly underpowered mostly from massive overfueling. Luckily I only drove it a couple hundred miles at most with carb like than. As soon as I threw on the good running 32/36 it made a huge difference. Even though the carb came off an almost identical 2F, and was running excellently right from the getgo, I decided to tweak it a little or to start at square one (using the directions I gave Nolan earlier in this thread). It made it run a lot worse and now I can't get it back. It runs pretty well but on cold morings takes a while to get so that it can even move on it's own power (unlike with the 38), and sputters and misfires a little until it reaches operating speed. Maybe the electric choke is sticking or malfunctioning. I tuned it so that it should be running right on or possibly a little lean. But I give it the actually "sniff" test and it still seems to be running a little rich as times (especically when not warmed up), has sort of a "rotten fuel" funk to the exhaust. I was also wrong about the '79 electronic distributor, it only has one vacuum hose, not two like the FJ60 distributor. Which I have plumbed directly into the intake manifold. Right now, with headers, the Toyota ignition, good wires, cap, and rotor, with the timing fairly right on last time I checked a couple months ago, it's running like crap and is under powered. This is from an engine that when properly running runs typically very powerful. So I think I need to figure out what the best idle mixture is and start from there. I also plan to replace the plugs immediately and might be acquiring a HEI shortly so I'll probably end up going that route with larger gapped plugs anyway.

There are two screws on the side of the carb (both on 32/36 models and the 38), one on valve cover side and one exactly opposite. Are these the high idle mixture screws?

up

I'm running an f motor, recently rebuilt (approximately 30k on it now) with an hei, spectre headers, 3inch exhaust to two-two-out flowmaster, and a 38mm weber carb and the damn thing halls ass! I'm also on 35inch mud terrains and it still moves. Of course I also have an sm420 which helps a bit from the stock 3spd. Anyways, when I first got threw the weber on, it ran great, then it slowly began to get worse and worse. There was two things wrong with my carb, 1. the choke was not in the right position, it had come loose somehow. 2. the idle jet had gotten really dirty. The second one is the one that I would suggest to you. Weber carbs are infamous for making the idle jet dirty. It is located on the side of the carb, it's a screw, pull it all the way out, shoot it with carb cleaner and plop it back in. It will idle, accelerate and just damn run altogether better. That idle jet gets dirty all the time, depends on how often you replace your fuel filter and what gas station you are using. I have to clean mine as often as every other month. Hope that helps! Let me know,
Brandon

Thanks for the advice Rufio. Do you remember which screw it is? I noticed three, the idle mixutre screw at the bottom of the carb on the valve cover side, then a screw in each side (one at the valve cover and the other on the drivers fender side) in the middle / upper part of the body. I'm assuming they are related to fueling for each barrell. Now that I have a spare junker Weber :D I can maybe start playing around with that one to understand the carb better so I can maaybe get the one on the truck right. Good news is it seems to be running much better. I've been super busy and my ~el cheapo pawn shop voltage tester shit the bed so I haven't even tested to see if the choke is even recieving voltage. Once it warms up, it runs great but still doesn't have the power it should. And it occationally misfires under heavy throttle, I'm not sure if it's from overfueling or lack of oxygen or what. I richened it out quite a bit this morning and it seems to be running considerably better from a drivability point of view. There seems to be a flat spot right between initial start off when driving (where it first hesitated, when tuned much leaner), and seems to have plenty of power when the throttle is heavily opened. It also idles very well, but the linkage isn't perfect so occationally it hits a spot where it's so low you can barely tell the truck is on. The valves are also chattering away so tomorrow I'll give it a tune up and hopefully get it completely resolved.

Andre,
If you have no luck, try and find a shop that works on BMW's(older) or english cars. I have a shop around here(La Jolla Ind. BMW sevice) that can tune the webers really well and have ALL the parts and jets instock. Webers are real sensitive to idle vacuum and booster signal off idle, so a true tune up would be good. Run an EFI fuel filter- better filtering with minimal restriction) Someone with a bit of weber experience can make them run great, BUT be warned I have seen even new carbs warp or cast poorly that can never run right due to leaks in the booster doglegs and other porosity. BTW the shop hates the webers but works on them b/c so many cars arleady have them.

If you can get the Aisin carb or go EFI.

-Brett

Andre,
Also, check your spark strength... Mine was bad at one point and it exhibited bad off idle charateristics... the idle dipping down to barely noticable seems like the throttle bores in the carb are worn a bit.....

-Brett

if you've already adjusted the air mixture screws, then leave them alone. Give the crusher a tune-up along with pulling out the two idle jets on both sides of the carb. they are on the body, the two that you were talking about. just unscrew them and soak/shoot the hell out of them with carb cleaner. very possible that is causing your short end stutter. is the butterflies for the choke completely open when it's warm and idling? if not they need to be adjusted. if they are not closed when it first starts, then the electronic choke probably isn't getting voltage. both of these are very important on a weber.

Thanks guys, will do.
Plan today (before I even checked in) is to:
1) adjust valves
2) Check plugs and adjust or replace if neccessary. I have a feeling the overfueling could have messed with the plugs.
3) Mess with the Weber - I was going to mess around with the 38 first (almost identical) to get an idea of what I'm messing with before I start toying with the 32/36. My roommate's dad is in town and races old British carbs and claims to know Webers pretty well, so hopefully I'll get it all figured out.

Thanks for the help Rufio and Cruiserbrett - here's an update.
All three suggestions taken and helped. 1) I pulled out the idle needles and cleaned out. No more flat spot, generally running and idling very well. 2) Valves were chattering away. I've done valves maybe half a dozen times but not in the last few years. Following the Haynes manual (the only one I have for the 2F),
I started adjusting away but with the engine at TDC and the dizzy pointing to number 1, I couldn't understand why valves 7 and 9 were compressed. So I just rotated away until they were decompressed and adjusted. Same deal with doing valves 4,6,8, 10 ,11, 12 (memorized it by now). So I just assumed and couldn't understand how it ran before (with the vavle timing off?) but just assumed I'd figure it out later. Put it all back together, went to start and nothing - like I had the timing order off. Let it sit the night (was late to dinner with the girlfriends parents on thansgiving :eek: ) and came back the next day. Figured out that the yokel who last installed the distributor (me:rolleyes: ) must have installed the distributor backwards and was running the timing order correctly, but starting at 6 not 1. So, got it running, vavles were very quiet and generally the truck was running very smoothly. Then I decided while I'm at it, I might as well run the truck for a while, get it up to operating temps, and check the valves again. I got into disgussion with my roommate's dad who works on British cars saying that all British cars are supposed to have their vavles adjusted with the truck cold. When warm I found that my adjustments were totally off so I redid them and the truck started running significantly worse. Now it is a running pretty good but not as good and quiet as when they were first adjusted. Wierd uh :confused:

Now it is generally running smoother and significantly more powerful. I also pulled the plugs and inspected. They have significant ashing indicating (also according to the Haynes manual) richness. So I plan to replace those immediately (local parts place isn't open on Sundays) and I think it will significantly help. Good news is the Weber is running smooth and strong.

Anyone know anything about the debate between adjusting valves hot-cold - also I would think they would contract - expand a little in the process of adjusting them.

You get a more accurate adjustment with a hot engine, normal operating temperature. But you have to be fairly quick, before the engine starts to cool, or you will have different clearances between the beginning and final valves. Of course if you have extensive practice adjusting valves you can tweek the valve train for optimum performance..Add or subtract a .001 of an inch here or there. Its amazing what that little bit of clearance can do for perfomance. :skull: