has anyone tried to stay with stock flatops out of rev d44 from 77 f250 and do a f150 hub and rotor. my calipers hit the knuckles. want to stay with flattops for high steering. can i grind flattops to fit the calipers??? thanks for any info

Ok, heres how it works.
The stock F-250 knuckles use five studs to hold the spindles to them, and the hole in them is way to big. The Chevy/Jeep spindles that you use for this opperation have 6. Therefore, step one, ditch the F-250 knuckles and get some Chevys or Jeep D44 flattops. They're out there, it just takes a little searching. Then you need spindles. The ones you want are off of '76 Chevys if I remember correctly. Can anyone else verify this for me? If you have a lathe, like I do, you can turn down any spindle to fit the hub bearings. This is what I did when we did this conversion to my roommates D44. The rotors you want are the thicker F-150 rotors, 1.250 thick. The calipers are Chevy/Jeep D44 calpiers with the mounting backets off the same Chevy/Jeep. So basically, its the Ford housing, Chevy/Jeep knuckles, spindles, calipers and mounting brackets, and F-150 hubs and rotors. The best part is the calipers lined right up with the rotors. We didn't have to space them at all.

74-77.5 chevy spindles IIRC
mid 80's bronco or F150 rotors and bearing hubs...I used 83 Bronco.

Originally posted by funflaty
The stock F-250 knuckles use five studs to hold the spindles to them, and the hole in them is way to big. The Chevy/Jeep spindles that you use for this opperation have 6. Therefore, step one, ditch the F-250 knuckles and get some Chevys or Jeep D44 flattops. They're out there, it just takes a little searching. Then you need spindles.

Sounds to me like he already has the Ford flattop knuckles. It also sounds like he's already installed F150 hubs and rotors to get the five lug, but the caliper hits the knuckle. If there's enough meat on the knuckle to grind and allow the caliper to slide that's all that's necessary. I sure wouldn't swap the knuckles out if some time with the grinder is all that is needed.

Originally posted by steve stiller
has anyone tried to stay with stock flatops out of rev d44 from 77 f250 and do a f150 hub and rotor. my calipers hit the knuckles. want to stay with flattops for high steering. can i grind flattops to fit the calipers??? thanks for any info Post a couple of pictures where it hits.

I take it your using F150 brake stuff?

The reply about using the Chevy Jeep stuff is for the most part spot on, if that is what he was asking. sounds like he wants to keep the Ford 1/2 brakes and use the Ford 3/4 ton knuckles for the flat-tops, take a look at some Ford 1/2 ton knuckles, there is a big notch for the caliper, seems like you would need to remove a lot of material to provide enough clearance, enough that you would need to weld in some additional material to essentially make the 3/4 ton knuckle look like the 1/2 ton only with flat-tops. I guess you could take an opposite side 1/2 ton knuckle with the studs removed and slide it over the spindle studs of the 3/4 ton knuckle to mark out the notch, but all the cutting and welding on a very important steering and vehicle support component would make me a little nervous.

I've seen some setups with drilled and tapped 1/2 ton Ford knuckles running Hysteer, but the 3/4 ton knuckles would be much easier, same as the Chevy knuckles.

I would love to see a mod to the 3/4 ton knuckles to allow 1/2 ton Ford brake parts, as I have two sets of these knuckles with no brake hardware. I just use chevy stuff because I have tons of it laying around, but it would be nice to be able to use the 3/4 ton Ford knuckles too.

Sounds like we are in the same boat. I know exaclty what you're talking about because I'm having the same problem. I don't think you could grind enough out of the knuckle to fit the caliper and still have the necessary strength. THIS SUCKS! If you come up with anything other than swapping back to F150 knuckles please let us know!

what stops you from plug welding the 5 bolt knuckle and re-drilling for the chevy bolt spindles/caliper brackets?

Originally posted by Sundowner
what stops you from plug welding the 5 bolt knuckle and re-drilling for the chevy bolt spindles/caliper brackets?

The thing stopping me from doing that is I already bought all new components for Ford stuff and it sounds like it's the same story for the guy above. As for me I don't care about the flat top knuckles so if anyone has some F150 knuckles especially local in southern calif. email me or drop me a pm.

Originally posted by Sundowner
what stops you from plug welding the 5 bolt knuckle and re-drilling for the chevy bolt spindles/caliper brackets?

The index hole in the Ford knuckle is big enough that the entire Chevy spindle will pass through it, no way to re-drill.

F-150 knuckles are pretty easy to find, you should have no problem finding any.

I would still like to see any possible solutions to this situation, I'll try to snap some pics of the knuckles in question when I get home this weekend.

I found this picture on a write-up that demonstrates the difference in the F150 knuckle. The knuckle on the far left shows the F150 knuckle with the notch out of the back side where the caliper sits. The F250 knuckle has no such notch on it. That's the problem. I think I'm going to try and grind down my knuckle to match. I don't see any reinforcement on the F150 knuckle.

http://web3.foxinternet.net/venom9/drivknuck.jpg

i just ground down the same place as the f150 and put a hefty bead from mig on the inside lip. i can't see where this would take away that much strengh as the ford f150 is notched out and the way the spindle machine to a tight fit in knuckle. i don't know how to post pic but i can email someone a pic to post. thanks steve

Originally posted by steve stiller
i just ground down the same place as the f150 and put a hefty bead from mig on the inside lip. i can't see where this would take away that much strengh as the ford f150 is notched out and the way the spindle machine to a tight fit in knuckle. i don't know how to post pic but i can email someone a pic to post. thanks steve

I think I agree with you. After seeing the F150 knuckle I don't see why not to grind it down and reinforce a little. That way you preserve the taller steering arms (2" higher) and also the rest of the F250 knuckle is beefier.

Steve-Can you please email me the picture to ksanders@guidant.com.

Laying some reinforcing bead is a good idea. I was wondering if there would be room to put a curved reinforcing plate on the inside of the knuckle and use the knuckle studs to hold it down.

Is there any new info out there on this guys????????

PICS????

did it work with a little reinforcement?

I too would like to see some pics.

BTT

been running with 39.5's with no problems to date. they are holding up great. will try to get some pics up/ or email me
steve