Guys I am at my wit's end here & could really use some help from those with experience.
I am working on a friend's fuelie Samurai, and have it running pretty darned good - it is very strong through it's entire rpm range, easily reaching 70+ mph. The problem is with the idle - after it gets to operating temperature, the idle will drop down to 'normal' for just a couple seconds, then it will go back up to 'cold idle' for a couple seconds, then back to warm idle, then back to cold idle - man, it's just like Clockwork, too. Something in the system is switching it back & forth. The ONLY thing I have discovered is that if I disconnect the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor & plug the intake off, it purrs like a kitten at warm idle. The rig does not give any trouble codes - only 1 2 = normal. A couple times, it went to normal warm idle after I had removed the diagnostic fuse??

ANY help on this would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

Did you change the vacuum line? Or the MAP.........Maybe get a donor one and try it? Sounds like you have a leak somewhere there!

It´s prolly the idle air control (IAC) valve.........

Looking into the engine bay from the front, said valve is located on top of the throttle body, just to the left of the number 2 cylinder. It has three hoses connected to it, as well as an electrical connection.

The FSM explains the diagnostic procedure in great detail. I´´d have to type for two days to copy it all here. And I don´t have access to a scanner, otherwise I´d copy the corresponding pages....:p

But two quick checks to see if this valve is suspect...

With the engine at high idle, block the upper hose from the IAC valve. If the engine idle drops off and stays low, then the IAC valve or its ECM curcuit is defective. If the engine´s idle remains high, then check the air intake system (filter box, A/C vacuum lines, etc.) for leakage and then adjust the idle spped screw on the throtle body.

With the engine at low idle, disconnect from the IAC valve the hose that goes to the air filter box. If it´s pulling vacuum, then check the air intake system (filter box, A/C vacuum lines, etc.) for leakage and then adjust the idle spped screw on the throtle body. If there´s no vacuum, then the IAC valve or its ECM curcuit is defective.

HTH

billj, thanks for all the good info. I will check it out when I get home tonight, but I could swear I don't remember anything with 3 vac. lines going to it anywhere on there...

I do recall clearly that there is only One vacuum line attaching to the airbox - it goes to the ..... er......"vsvcc" or something named kinda like that, but it only has 2 vac. lines going to it + elec. connector. With the engine running, you can pull the line off of the airbox, and the valve is pulsing. The engine rpm's will drop some, but the surging continues.

Still I could easily be wrong & will investigate.



RudeZuk: a MAP sensor costs ~$200 to buy new!:eek:
Anybody know how to test one??
Or got an extra they could spare for me to swap? :)

There is a plate with three screws on the front passenger side of the throttle body. With engine off, remove the 3 screws & plate.

There is a threaded washer inside of the hole with ~three little bumps on it as I recall. Use a flat screwdriver and turn this threaded washer clockwise about one half turn. Replace the cover and the screws and start her up. If it still surges, do same procedure again. Mine took a full turn.

WTF is it and HTF did you find it?!?!?:confused:

Originally posted by billj
WTF is it ?!?!?:confused:

That is a good question :D
I posted my situation on another 'Zuki board, and a fellow from Alaska (really) replied & said he had done this adjustment to several fuelie Samurai's with 100% success. It apparently corrects a lean situation. While I admit I don't fully understand what it does, I defenitely understand that it worked!

why didn't search? you would have found this :http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67624


and it was Moose @ Island4x4
:flipoff2:

Of course I searched - just didn't use the word "surge" I guess.
Damned if I didn't try everything else, tho :rolleyes:
efi, E.F.I., fuelie, idle, idles, lopes, Etc. Etc.......


You see on that post it was AkDale in the same spot I was in - THAT'S the guy in Alaska that I referred to from the other board.

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
Of course I searched - just didn't use the word "surge" I guess.
Damned if I didn't try everything else, tho :rolleyes:
efi, E.F.I., fuelie, idle, idles, lopes, Etc. Etc.......


You see on that post it was AkDale in the same spot I was in - THAT'S the guy in Alaska that I referred to from the other board.


:D I just wanted to give credit to the cool Moose dude, that's all. mine had been doing this for about the past 9 years.....:emb2: :rasta:

:beer:

Originally posted by UZI 9mm



:D I just wanted to give credit to the cool Moose dude, that's all. :beer:

I agree! But how did he come to this adjustment??? :confused:

I have not met the man, but he is quite the Suzuki Guru/fanatic :D. He is extremely helpful, and all round good guy.

thoroughly check out island4x4.com site

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER


That is a good question :D
I posted my situation on another 'Zuki board, and a fellow from Alaska (really) replied & said he had done this adjustment to several fuelie Samurai's with 100% success. It apparently corrects a lean situation. While I admit I don't fully understand what it does, I defenitely understand that it worked!

Would the same apply to a Kick or Tracker ?

Nex time, just do what you always do. Put a diesel in it... :flipoff2:

Titanium,
Check to see if the kick has this "Plate" on the front passenger side of the throttle body.
If it does, It doesn't take but about 5 min. to make the adjustment. And another 5 min. to undo it if it doesn't work.

Is the 1.6 8V EFI the same as an early model Sami EFI ???