JANA 54™ kit Installs Dana 50 gears into Dana 44 High Pinion housings, making them 44% stronger. As seen in Crawl Magazine, This Dana 50/44 hybrid kit comes complete with all adapter bearings, standard bearings, seals, shims, spacers & instructions, to install a Dana 50 gear set with a Dana 44 carrier 3.73 & down (or Posi) into the D44 HP diff housing. Gear ratios available: 4.11, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, & 5.38. Jana 3/8" thick cover girdles also available.
If you can install ring & pinions & use a grinder you can install this strength improving kit. If you are running alloy axles then you need this kit as the Ring & Pinion is now the weak link in your drive-train. This kit allows you to upgrade to 31, 32, 33 or 35 spline axles without having the limited strength of the 44 ring and pinion, yet not lose any ground clearance. Questions please email us or call 8-5 Pacific time M-F 360-598-2773 carl@jantzengineering.com


KITS RUN approx. $ 300.00

Pictured is a Dana 50 4.11 gear set installed on a 35 spline ARB air locker in a 44 HP housing.

If you found this thread you'll also be interested in our full product line of Differential Hybrids;

HOW TO INSTALL:
D80s into D70s, Jana 87: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=958266
D70s into D60s, Jana 76:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=946421
New 8.9" JKs into 44s Jana K4:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=957491
Jana Cover Girdles: Holding it all together, http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=958047

1st, we have to get the larger gear in the housing. Since the D50 ring gear is 1/2" larger in diameter the than the D44 ring gear there needs to be 1/4" clearance around the D44 ring gear in the housing to clear the D50 gear, most 44 housings are cast with approximately 3/16" clearance, so only very small amount of grinding in a few spots is necessary.

2nd, we have to get the pinion in, and it needs to go roughly 1/4" farther out from the center line line of the ring gear, To do this an adapter pinion head bearing is used setting the pinion depth deeper into the bore. (notice step in upper left bearing race) this then moves the tail bearing, seal & yoke farther out, but luckily there is still room to get the parts in with the proper spacers, shims and adapter rings. A fair amount of grinding is done to clear the oil slinger, and place the adapter bearing into the housing.

3rd, The 50 Ring & Pinion being larger and thicker needs a carrier that moves the ring gear away from the pinion. To do this a D44 3.73 & down numerically carrier is used but it still is to close so a narrowed bearing is used to move it a bit more to accomplish this without any loss in bearing load carrying capacity. The carrier is also drilled to accept the larger D50 ring gear bolts.

The Kit pictured here comes with all you need to start with a bare housing and install a D50 gear set & a 44 carrier. We start with a master overhaul kit and then add the required adapter bearings, spacers, shims etc to get the job done.

Here is a cut-away view showing the beveled oil slinger, housing clearance grinding and step bearing installed with related pinion parts.

1st the Benefits,

Your Ring & Pinion is 44% stronger! with no loss of ground clearance.
Dana rates the 44 @ 3460 Ft-lbs maximum momentary output torque.
Dana rates the 50 @ 5000 Ft-lbs maximum momentary output torque.
That's more than 1500 ft-lb increase in capacity.
Also if you have alloy axles, then your current week link is the most difficult and expensive part to repair ie, the ring & pinion. Lets not have that.

2nd the Cost,

The net cost is only $150 bucks, and a few more hours labor.
If you compare the cost of a Dana 50 gear set to the cost of a Dana 44R gear set , you will find they are within few bucks of each other. Now if your gonna do this right then you need a new installation and bearing kit as well, this is gonna set ya back about $150. Your gonna buy a posi/ locker anyway so that doesn't even figure in.

The cost of a Jana 54 kit is only $300* (most kits, subject to change).
Thus net cost around $150.
Folks, this is a No brainer

*May also purchase, Axle tube seals, HD yokes, & Jana cover girdle (more on this later)

We of course can sell you everything necessary for this hybrid conversion. But there are also plenty of wrecking yard finds for the cost conscious.
The question I get the most is " What carrier do I need to find to work with this Hybrid kit?" The answer is any 44 carrier/posi/locker that is made for 3.73 & down numerically gears. (sometimes referred to as a High speed carrier). The next question I get is "I already have a D44 3.92 & up carrier/posi/locker, can it be made to fit?" Unfortunately the answer is typically no. However If you have a ARB air locker we can supply you with a new case 1/2 and air cap assembly so you can put your internals in it. There are also the new Jeep Rubicon & JK OEM factory air lockers that we can make to fit with minimal machine work.

To begin with I would not attempt this unless you have set up at least 4 ring & pinions. Its not your start on Friday night and go wheeling Saturday type of job. Detailed Instructions come with the kit, here is the basic procedure:
CHECK LIST
(1) Grinding the housing for ring gear clearance.
a. Use the D50 ring gear by itself and try to get it in the housing. Grind slightly on the bottom but mostly on the top until it goes in easily, then install just the D50 ring gear on the D44 carrier with just 4 bolts, and verify you can install it, grind as necessary. ( ring gear bolt holes need to be drilled to D50 bolt size.)
b. Use dummy bearings and or carrier while grinding.
(2) Grind the carrier bearing snout on ring gear side
a. Grind about 1/16” off of the carrier bearing snout on the ring gear side
b. Install the thin bearing on the ring gear side with no shims and install the gear on the carrier and place in the housing, check fit.
(3) Pinion Bearing adapter Install
a. Die grind pinion bearing shoulder for step clearance.
b. Grind housing for pinion slinger clearance.

NOTE: BIG TIME CLEAN UP NOW!

(4) Partial pinion install
a. Install Pinion with a starting depth shim pack of .040”

(5) Carrier Install & bearing preloads
a. Install with a starting shim pack of .040” under the thin ring gear side bearing
(6) Gear Pattern
a. Set up the ring and pinion
(7) Pinion Preloading
a. Add .060” of preload shims to start.
b. Add and subtract shims until torque to rotate pinion is between 14-19 in-lbs.
(8) Pinion seal
a. Remove yoke
b. Install seal
c. Verify and or Polish seal surface of yoke and install.
d. Install new pinion nut, torque to 200-225 FT-lbs
(9) Ring Gear and carrier Final install
a. Install as normal

b. If not using Jana cover girdle, do yourself a favor and at least bottom tap carrier cap bolt holes and use ¼” longer Grade 8 bolts torqued to 80 FT-lbs.
(10) Cover Install
a. Install standard cover or follow instructions in Jana Cover Girdle kit.
b. Add oil. I recommend Amsoil severe gear 75W140 for general use, and Severe gear 250 for rock crawling and desert racing.
(11) Break in
Follow standard break in procedures, 500 miles before hard use. Yeah, like that ever happens.
(12) Drive it like your King of the Hill.

Pictures shown are the areas ground for clearance.

Another question I get frequently is: "What can you do for my low pinion 44?" Well Ive got the solution for that as well, please stay tuned....This just in....... here is the answer for your old school 44. http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12535395&posted=1#post12535395

Any inside news/development yet for us guys with the lowly LPD44's?

Waiting to hear about the lp44 stuff. I was just starting to get parts together for a regear but am now waiting.

x2 I run a low pinion 44 myself and haven't regeared lower than 4.10 because I am afraid of grenading a pinion. This would be an awesome upgrade :smokin:

Just talked with my Yoke supplier, they will be shipping parts tomorrow, (course that was said last week) but now parts are actually through QA and on the way here so as soon as I do a final verification assembly, with production run parts, I will start the JANA k4™ thread. Pricing will be in the $300-350 range for the kit. then you need a gear set and a 3.73 & down carrier/posi/locker.

Guestimation on "% strength increse"? (thanks for updating the thread)

Guestimation on "% strength increse"? (thanks for updating the thread)

I guestimate 40-44% stronger , here is my reasoning
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=12234351&postcount=317

Thank you!

interesting, even the TJ lp44?

interesting, even the TJ lp44?

As long as it takes a standard D44 LP ring & pinion then this will work. (Unless there is something different about a TJLp44 I don't know about.)

So to post what you and i talked about today for those of us rounding up parts when it comes to an air locker or detroit

for 35 spline in the arb a RD147 would be the choice.

then some milling of the carrier would be necessary.

So to post what you and i talked about today for those of us rounding up parts when it comes to an air locker or detroit

for 35 spline in the arb a RD147 would be the choice.

then some milling of the carrier would be necessary.

Yes the RD147 would be the choice, I can supply it machined for the application currently priced at $1000.

As for the Detroit, best I've seen is 33 spline (correct me if I'm wrong)

For those wanting a spool we can Install 35 spline side gears into an open Dana 50 carrier and weld it up and this will work in the Jana 54 or Jana K4.

Nice.... now I can keep my HP44 and go to 40's or bigger :grinpimp:

Nice.... now I can keep my HP44 and go to 40's or bigger :grinpimp:

Seriously! :smokin:

I'm about to start putting together a hp44 so this thread is relevant to my interests. Who's selling the outer parts for a 35 spline upgrade? Hubs, splines and shafts specifically.

Seriously! :smokin:

I'm about to start putting together a hp44 so this thread is relevant to my interests. Who's selling the outer parts for a 35 spline upgrade? Hubs, splines and shafts specifically.

Glad you asked! of course you can spend 2-3K buying after market outer knuckle hare ware, but here is a very affordable solution I've been working on.

Start with a D50 TTB front end, these are cheap at pull a-parts. Whack off the outers and adapt them to your tubes. This will give you 35 spline inners, D60 U-joints and a 30 spline outer axle (fusible link).

Our process bores out the TTB square housing ends and adds and adapter donut (sleave) then its ready to weld onto your axle tubes. If you can't find a local machinist to do it well be glad to do it for you. I'm figuring around $200 - $300.

So Carl....is there a final price/kit/instruction sheet for the 54? You can PM me with details or specific package breakdowns if you want.

Thanks!

$300 for the kit,
$225 for the Girdle
$45 (3) qt. Severe gear 250
$230 Ring & pinions
$25 pair of inner axle seals 30 & 33 spline $20 for 35 spline
$75 carrier narrow set up bearing
$75 Pinion head adapter set up bearing


Note: Prices subject to change.

Note: must use 3.73 & down carrier (drill ring gear bolt holes to 7/16")
Note: ARBs new version 2 piece case will require machine work, I can supply new unit machined for application with 30, 33, or 35 spline $900. or machine yours for $100.00

For a PDF with detailed instructions please email me, carl@jantzengineering.com

Do you have a picture of the lathe setup without the D50 knuckle spinning?

Do you have a picture of the lathe setup without the D50 knuckle spinning?

Yes but why should I show all my secrets? But since you will figure it out eventually as its really quite simple. I'll tell you how to do it accurately so ya don't mess up stealing my Ideas. 1st machine the area between the bearing journals on your spindle concentric to the bearing journals (this area is factory rough machined and can be as much as .015" out of round). This gives you a good rigid spot to chuck on, without putting jaw dents into your bearing journals.
Then Bolt you your spindle onto the outer knuckle attached to the inner Knuckle, chuck spindle with assembly in lathe, rotate carefully till inside walls of rectangular housing are centered, tack weld a strap between the knuckles to hold the inner one from flopping, bore to desired size, when finished grind off tack welds. I suggest having new ball joints installed or have very good used ones as this is going to set your concentricity to whatever condition the ball joints are in.

E-mail sent

Carl,
say we went with a 35 spline ARB but wanted to keep our 44 outters. Already have Rieds and a high steer set up.

What would be the choice for shafts that would allow for stronger/larger ears/larger u joint besides RCV`s ?

Asking because a typical aftermarket u joint is normally stronger then the ears of the shafts. And the ears are "generally" what fails first. Not the u joint.

Carl,
say we went with a 35 spline ARB but wanted to keep our 44 outters. Already have Rieds and a high steer set up.

What would be the choice for shafts that would allow for stronger/larger ears/larger u joint besides RCV`s ?

Asking because a typical aftermarket u joint is normally stronger then the ears of the shafts. And the ears are "generally" what fails first. Not the u joint.

Mac at Superior Told me they are forging shafts that will take 33 splines. 1.4" So as they have them in they will let me know so I can get some blanks for custom cutting. Those comp cut with a set of Super Joints would be a very well matched set up. Leave the outers 19 or 30 spline for a fuse-able link.

Mac at Superior Told me they are forging shafts that will take 33 splines. 1.4" So as they have them in they will let me know so I can get some blanks for custom cutting. Those comp cut with a set of Super Joints would be a very well matched set up. Leave the outers 19 or 30 spline for a fuse-able link.

OK, so Superior will have larger diameter shafts. What about the ears for the u joint ? Will they be larger also ? As in thicker and beefier ? Or will the new shafts use a larger u joint altogether ?

OK, so Superior will have larger diameter shafts. What about the ears for the u joint ? Will they be larger also ? As in thicker and beefier ? Or will the new shafts use a larger u joint altogether ?
The ears are beefed up to the max but you will still use the d44 dimensional super joint.

I'm guessing this could be done in a TTB HP44 housing, correct? And I'd also guess that you could modify the TTB arm itself to make provisions for the girdle/load bolts?

Unrelated, but how about getting HP44 gears into a HP35 TTB housing?

I'm guessing this could be done in a TTB HP44 housing, correct? And I'd also guess that you could modify the TTB arm itself to make provisions for the girdle/load bolts?

Unrelated, but how about getting HP44 gears into a HP35 TTB housing?

Yes, it works for the TTB housing, and Also allows the 35 spline D44 ARB to work in the TTB 44s and all 50s. Drilling the the TTB arm, to install the stanchions will be no problemo, it should go right into my jig with a couple of spacer blocks.

As for the 35s I have looked into it, although the Pinion hypoid is the same and physically you can grind the housing and fit the gears in, the offset is different so far on the carrier that I cant get the ring gear flange far enough from pinion to get it to fit in without building a special carrier.

The ears are beefed up to the max but you will still use the d44 dimensional super joint.

Thanks Carl. That was the kind of answer I was looking for.

incredable thread. i'll be doing this one in the near future.
any pictures of a completed axle with the machined outers welded in place?

incredable thread. i'll be doing this one in the near future.
any pictures of a completed axle with the machined outers welded in place?

This is the buggy Team Iceland took to KOH, I can't take credit for the fabrication on this front end, but I did supply all the croy'd gears, lockers and axles for the 35 spline TTB set up. They started in 8th place at KOH, but during a bad pass hit a rock the size of a fridge and stopped cold at 30mph. Linkages were bent but they got back and running after a 2 mile run to the pits and back for spares, then when they got to the rocks He said the TTB just owned them, they were passing people again when one of the hydraulic fittings they bent earlier gave way, and gone was the steering. With some epoxy quick metal they repaired again, They finished one lap but did not try for the second. The good thing is that none of my stuff failed at KOH!
578932
The Orange Buggy on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/17056336)

I might need to do a little more searching but wouldn't the outers of a solid axle 50 work?

I might need to do a little more searching but wouldn't the outers of a solid axle 50 work?
I've never seen a solid 50, but Yes if it has 60 outers like said, then they would work.

I've never seen a solid 50, but Yes if it has 60 outers like said, then they would work.

1999+ Ford Superduty with 5.4. Thats what my old superduty had. Or maybe it just had a dana 50 ring gear and a 60 housing?

1999+ Ford Superduty with 5.4. Thats what my old superduty had. Or maybe it just had a dana 50 ring gear and a 60 housing?

you cant have 50 in a 60 or vice verse, the hypoid distance is 7/8" different and the castings are different so that machine work is impossible.

I am already committed with my Locker, anyone try back cutting the carrier or housing to use their 3.92 carrier with D50 4.56's? I have wasted a lot of Hi Pinion gears on my 44 rear. This sound like a great idea.

I am already committed with my Locker, anyone try back cutting the carrier or housing to use their 3.92 carrier with D50 4.56's? I have wasted a lot of Hi Pinion gears on my 44 rear. This sound like a great idea.

The offset of the carriers is 5/16". and even with this you need the extra bit that my narrowed bearing gives. I have played with cutting around an 1/8" from the carrier, at the ring gear and then another 1/8" from the carrier shoulder, then you could take 1/8" off the back of the ring gear. What type of locker do you have?

So, I have a brand new uninstalled RD109 (3.92 and numerically higher gears.) I also have a brand new uninstalled set of 5.13 gears and install kit for a High Pinion 44 (which has Dana 60 outer C's and kingpin outer stuff.) I'm currently planning to run stock Dana 60 axle shafts (one side cut down and resplined) with Spicer joints and 30 spline outers but may be looking at alloy shafts and 35 spline outer in the future. My tires are 40" MTR's with Kevlar. Rig is a Jeep Comanche cab built into a juggy type thing. Engine is a Chevy 5.3 with auto tranny, Klune 4:1 (31 spline output) and a Stak Dana 300 with stock gearing (31 spline input and 32 spline outputs.) First, would you take the extra costs and time to put Dana 50 gears in this thing or simply use what I already have on hand? Second, if I did want to use Dana 50 gears, what exactly needs to happen to the RD109? Just buy a RD147 (3.73 and numerically lower gears) case half? What would that run? Any way to swap for one? Is there some extra machining that needs to be done to the ARB? If so, what? Also, can any of my rebuild kit parts be used or should I just try to sell it as a complete kit? Finally, do you have a seal that you recommend for the axle shafts? Quite some time ago when I started this project, I came up with a Napa 15292 seal that I thought would work. It fits in the factory Dana 44 inner seal spot in the 2.75" tubes and is tight on the 35 spline axle shafts. Thanks for any input, Jeff

This is an interesting mod, tell me does it only work with the ARB, or would it be compatible with the Yukon Zip locker for example?

So, I have a brand new uninstalled RD109 (3.92 and numerically higher gears.) I also have a brand new uninstalled set of 5.13 gears and install kit for a High Pinion 44 (which has Dana 60 outer C's and kingpin outer stuff.) I'm currently planning to run stock Dana 60 axle shafts (one side cut down and resplined) with Spicer joints and 30 spline outers but may be looking at alloy shafts and 35 spline outer in the future. My tires are 40" MTR's with Kevlar. Rig is a Jeep Comanche cab built into a juggy type thing. Engine is a Chevy 5.3 with auto tranny, Klune 4:1 (31 spline output) and a Stak Dana 300 with stock gearing (31 spline input and 32 spline outputs.) First, would you take the extra costs and time to put Dana 50 gears in this thing or simply use what I already have on hand? Second, if I did want to use Dana 50 gears, what exactly needs to happen to the RD109? Just buy a RD147 (3.73 and numerically lower gears) case half? What would that run? Any way to swap for one? Is there some extra machining that needs to be done to the ARB? If so, what? Also, can any of my rebuild kit parts be used or should I just try to sell it as a complete kit? Finally, do you have a seal that you recommend for the axle shafts? Quite some time ago when I started this project, I came up with a Napa 15292 seal that I thought would work. It fits in the factory Dana 44 inner seal spot in the 2.75" tubes and is tight on the 35 spline axle shafts. Thanks for any input, Jeff

With D60 axles your 44 ring & pinion is the obvious week link. Ditch that for the 50. 33% stronger.
I think it would be cost prohibitive to try and change out cases, I've done the math and although you come out slightly ahead dollar wise, the hassle is there, better of sell it and use that towards 3.73 & down unit. Then you need to comp cut the axles down to be forgiving to your gear set. For more info on comp cutting, see over on the Jana 76 thread. You can get info there starting with post 95 up thru post 115 . http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=914583
I thought all the HP 44s had the large 2 5/8" od seal which is same as a d60, thus the 60 seal works. But then If you do have the small seal, just under 2 5/16" diam, you found a good one. I have seen the the stock small seal (Nat 5131) stretched up to 1 1/2", its tight but works. Make your axle maker turn the D60 shaft seal to your requirements, as they are factory 1 9/16". I would certainly leave the 30 spline outer axles & factory joints as the week link in the system. Stronger axles would just make the ring & pinion the week link and thats the last thing you want as a week link.

This is an interesting mod, tell me does it only work with the ARB, or would it be compatible with the Yukon Zip locker for example?
It will work with any 3.73 & down carrier. For stock type carriers, pozi's, tru traks, power locks, track locks, & Detroit lockers, etc. you use the narrowed bearing (in my kit) to get the correct offset to make room for the larger gear set. For selectable lockers If the air cylinder bearing (which is already narrower than stock) is on the ring gear side then I can't make that side any narrower and so .050" has to be shaved off the ring gear face of the carrier, & the bolts shortened by about 1 thread. So the old type arbs use the my narrowed bearing and the new type arbs must be machined. IT appears that the Zip lockers, Ox lockers & electrical Lockers all have a narrowed bearing on the side opposite the ring gear thus they will all work with my kit without modification other than drill out the ring gear bolt holes a size larger.