Ok, so now that I've been STUUUCK and needed a tow backward I'm to the point of addressing rear tow points.

I have a massive hook for the trailer hitch, but I want something outboard of the hitch even with the frame rails.

I was thinking Dixon-Bates because I really like them but they are $pendy.

I have an $G trailer hitch which I like a lot actually, but will have to modify the crossmember to get it to mount properly.

Any ideas on the rear tow points? Any photos of trick set-ups?

go to tractor supply they have good quality pintles that will bolt up to the back of the 110 just have to make a backing plate pretty easy just a piece of plate with the pattern drilled in it. I think you can also order from them online I think they offer something like a 22 ton one also if you want to be really obnoxious

-ben

Mike,

Scorpion / equippe makes a bracket that fits OVER the frame end, with a 360 d-ring.

I use a swivel d-ring from grainger, just like on $G stuff. I got it at Graingers for 75.00.

Hell, I'll build ya a bumpah! Can't right say itid be pretty or nuttin, by I could do it in an afternoon with a little bit o dat likuid currage!



j

Mike,
I emailed a few photos to you of a rear bumper I've built a couple of versions of. It's not exactly what you want but you might get some ideas. I would appreciate it if you would post them to the board. Feel free to copy, question, criticize whatever.

Mike Pado
:usa:

Mike (serious one),

I agree with m016324 on the pintel hook, but with a twist.

The best thing you can mount would be a Dixon Bates 4.07 tonne (English spelling) military pintel hook (it rotates and can be locked in place). Comes with a grease fitting to keep it in order.

Get one from Rover's North for something like $85 used, but excellent condition. Throw it in a bucket of paint stripper to get off the eighty coats of paint the British Army put on it, and get a backing plate drilled out of 1/4" steel to support your cross member. You can then toss a tow straps or KERR over the hook, use lashing rings, bow shackles, and or D-rings for rear tows. This is a brutally strong setup.

RedRangie's idea of the Grainger (Carr-lane manufacturer?) swivels is also nice but you will need a little fabrication work to get things setup. If you get a pair, you can rig a 6'-10' rope bridle between the two rings and get a nice load distribution on the frame. You can also run a pulley block on the bridle and have a really even load distribution even with very off center rear pulls.

#1

#2

If you want to keep your receiver free then a u and pin set-up (like a dixon bates) is a good way to go. You don't have to use shackles then which removes a potential missile from the end of your line. Try a tractor shop - there are lots of varieties to choose from, just make sure it is plated well on the reverse of the crossmember and use some big grade 8.8 bolts.

ct

I like D110Pickup's rear bumper, but the rear recovery points to me are a little too far outboard of the frame rails. I'm concerned that any severe pulling on the shackle that far out would create a levering effect and possibly tweak the outrigger. Remember, this is particularly critical on my truck because it weighs in at approx. 7000lbs empty (haven't weighed it yet).

I have thought of 1-inch plate welded to some plate then bolted thru the crossmember, but that gets me really close to the Dixon-Bate in terms of cost/effort.

I have two Dixon-Bates on the front of the RR, so I am familiar with their ease of use and installation. I'm just wondering if I can get them to mount to the rear crossmember w/out any futzing around.

Hmmmm.....who sells those in the states besides RN???

Mike,
Remember, those recovery points are placed where my friend wanted them. You could do something similar but place the recovery points directly behind the frame rails, which would roughly line up with the Hi-lift jack points. The bumper is also bolted through the crossmember at the jack points. I couldn't think of a stronger attachment method.
Mike Pado
:usa:

Mike,

Don't get me wrong, that bumper is trick, and if your friend/client wanted the tow points there, then by damn, he'll get them there.

I do like the idea of the thick-arse beefy plate mounted to another plate to bolt to the crossmember. The thing about it that I like is the fact that they're relatively unobtrusive. I can't afford to be whacking my thighs or other tender parts against objects sticking proud of the rear box while loading/unloading it.

The Dixon-Bates do stick out quite a bit...which is one of the negatives about using them.

Originally posted by Busto
Mike (serious one),

I agree with m016324 on the pintel hook, but with a twist.

The best thing you can mount would be a Dixon Bates 4.07 tonne (English spelling) military pintel hook (it rotates and can be locked in place). Comes with a grease fitting to keep it in order.

Oh like this? Yeah, I got one at a swap meet about 2 years ago, had to soak it in a bucket of motor oil for about a month to get it to free up. Had it sandblasted and then reassembled it. I've been using it with my chuck-wagon trailer for about a year now. I put it on a reciever plug, that in all honesty, is about 3-4 inches too long. I need to mark where I want the hole re-drilled and get it done.

I hadn't thought of putting two more on the rear crossmember.

Mike,
For my rear I am using avalanche's recovery points on my rear. Rockrover sent me to them, I have them, but they are not welded on yet. I am going to put them right off the frame point.

http://www.avalancheengr.com/Crawler/d-shackle.htm

They are sweet @ss parts, chamfered for good welding penetration on tube or plate.

j

Oh like this? Yeah, I got one at a swap meet about 2 years ago, had to soak it in a bucket of motor oil for about a month to get it to free up. Had it sandblasted and then reassembled it. I've been using it with my chuck-wagon trailer for about a year now. I put it on a reciever plug, that in all honesty, is about 3-4 inches too long. I need to mark where I want the hole re-drilled and get it done.
Yes, that is the guy. The ticket is clean up the paint with a soak in paint stripper until you get down to the red primer, then a soak in pure vinegar (or acetic acid) and ten minutes with a wire brush is the deal.

On the length, why not bolt it directly to the rear cross member instead of using the 2" hitch extension? That should save at least 3" or 4".

I think rover accessories also sells the other Dixon Bates pin type hitch. It will mount right up to the Defender rear cross member as well. Hey, you would think that they make these things in England specifically for the Army/Land Rover?:D

Why not just some trailer D rings?????

~ $12 a piece...

Originally posted by Busto

Yes, that is the guy. The ticket is clean up the paint with a soak in paint stripper until you get down to the red primer, then a soak in pure vinegar (or acetic acid) and ten minutes with a wire brush is the deal.

On the length, why not bolt it directly to the rear cross member instead of using the 2" hitch extension? That should save at least 3" or 4".

I think rover accessories also sells the other Dixon Bates pin type hitch. It will mount right up to the Defender rear cross member as well. Hey, you would think that they make these things in England specifically for the Army/Land Rover?:D

Didn't know the trick about the vinegar. I had them sandblasted then primed and painted the thing safety yellow. I need it to be detachable for two reasons: I need to be able to tow the chuck wagon with any of my vehicles. The chuck wagon has a sankey pintle ring on the a-frame.

I also need to be able to walk back and forth along the rear of the truck while loading it and not worry about banging my shins into anything. Having it permanently bolted to the rear crossmember kind of puts it in the way - so to speak.

I was thinking about the trailer D-rings but they rattle *and* my frame is already galvanized and I'd hate to mess the rear crossmember by grinding it up and repainting after welding.

Originally posted by Serious One
I was thinking about the trailer D-rings but they rattle

lol like you could hear them all the way back there? :D:D:D

Didn't know the trick about the vinegar. Anything that contains acetic acid is great for cleaning up corrosion on metals and will do a number on a lot of paints and adhesives. Just don't overdo it.

Now for something really scary: Coca Cola will also "eat" corrosion like mad as well as the cheesy cafeteria type powdered "juice" mixes (AKA cool aid) because they contain weak acetic acid concentrations. :eek: :eek: :eek:

regarding the weld on options, I was wondering if anyone sees a stength issue. With a bolt on application, it seems that you're distributing the load in a more uniform fashion, rather than having all the force transfered to a weld along the edges of the recovery point.

Originally posted by untrakdrover
regarding the weld on options, I was wondering if anyone sees a stength issue. With a bolt on application, it seems that you're distributing the load in a more uniform fashion, rather than having all the force transfered to a weld along the edges of the recovery point.

I agree to some extent, but penetration would be the key. (just ask my wife):eek:

I have a bolt on d-ring for the front, which only has one centered attachment point. The force distrobution therefore radiates outward along the thickness of the plate that it is attached to. Not much difference IMHO. If you were talking about multi-point bolt attachment, I would agree completely.

j

Welding recovery points onto the surface of the rear crossmember of a Defender is asking for trouble.

The metal is too thin to support much load, and if you pull hard on it, it will "tent" outward (seen it happen twice).

You could weld or bolt some plate steel over the length of the crossmember and weld to that (use something thick). Best option is something bolted through the crossmember tied to a backing plate.

Billster

yeah, I was refering to these.

Unfortunately, that is not the right bolt pattern for the Defender rear bulkhead (I know cuz I have one and it does not fit). You will have to drill to get it to work.

billster

Originally posted by untrakdrover
yeah, I was refering to these.

The tow rings Joshua pointed out are the ones I'm going to use.

I have photographed them before on several other rigs and have liked them a lot. Used them actually too.

I'll probably put two of those right on the frame rails with some serious backing plates, and then probably put two on the front bumper with the same backing plates.

I kind of have an idea about putting some on the front bumper of the Serious One and making a tow bar to fit them.

Where did you find them for sale Joshua???

EE sells them. I found them online for less.

Ron

they're all over the place. I got mine from leonards offroad courtesy of a last minute rescue from sanman before my moab trip. I am yet to find them for anything but 30 bucks a piece.

Unfortunately, that is not the right bolt pattern for the Defender rear bulkhead (I know cuz I have one and it does not fit). You will have to drill to get it to work.

billster

Originally posted by FrankenRover
Unfortunately.......You will have to drill to get it to work.

billster

Drill????? Drill?????

Damn, I thought I was going to be able to use them. Thanks a lot Bill!

:flipoff2:

get them from the manufacturer here under clevis mounts.
http://www.r-p4wd.com/java/products.htm

Or for the LR look, try John Cradocks (see the add on pg 60 of the Dec LRW)

-Jeff

yup, like I said, everyone wants 30. I was wondering what the big deal with a bit of drilling was? I have to drill 8 damn holes in my new 1/4inch bumper. I tell yah, the drill bits were having nine of that!

billster,
just for clarification, I was referring to welding to a bumper, not the crossmember. Sorry fort he conf usion

j