Ok I've had it with the crank that is in my kick. The keyway on the crank that holds the lower timming belt gear is smeared. I have had to weld the gear to the crank twick now and I no longer can get the valve timming right.

From what I have leaarned the 8 valve crank is a cast crank(correct me if I'm wrong.) Since I have to replace the crank, is there a forged crank I can use or a stock suzuki crank that doesn't have this smearing keyway problem?

Any help would be great.

1991 4dr Sidekick JLX 1600 8 valve

Originally posted by Tuner Inside
Since I have to replace the crank, is there a forged crank I can use or a stock suzuki crank that doesn't have this smearing keyway problem?

Geez, that's news to me. Never saw this problem on my 91 1.6/8 valve, my 92 1.6/16 valve, or any of my THREE 95 1.6/16 valve engines.

If it'll fit, I would go with the crank out of a 16 valve, as they're rated for 96 HP instead of the 80 HP of the 8 valve.

EDIT: According to Hugh Reynolds, of Reynolds Machine (he specializes in building these motors), the stock components are plenty strong to handle 140HP, without replacing them.

You could nitride the crank and balance it..... i would think

I talked to suzuki(canada) about the crank and they said it was a factory problem. The keyway was faulty and the factory replacement cranks have the problem resolved. I think they are full of shit. Going to get a picture of the crank once I get the engine pulled.

I have acess to a 16 valve crank so I am wondering if it will work? Hmmm, or I might just have to order up a new crank.:eek:

Oh hey one more thing, anyone got a personal opinion on a good low-mid camshaft????? I might as well do one since the engine will be out. Need something to go with the nice thorley header..

I had a simular problem with my 1.6L 8V. But, I think the crank bolt is too long, and does not tighten the lower timing gear properly. The gear wobbles around and eats up the keyway.

I found the problem before the crank was badly damaged and I replace the gear and key. I also build a heavy washer to shim the bolt out. That appeared to tighten up properly. Anyway, something to check when you put the motor back together....

I don't know about the bolt length. When I found it the gear was doing the death wobble. But like I said they say the crank is soft.

One way or another I will double check the gear like you said.

I'm in the process of TIG welding another crank right now. I build up the slot inside then dremel it out while fitting slot with key. This one is a Sami I also done Track/Kicks. The bolt backs out, when you reinstall use Lock-tite. You might look for a weld shop nearby. Robert