JANA k4™ kit Installs the new Stronger Dana JK44 gears into your old standard d44 making them approximately 44% stronger. This hybrid kit comes complete with all adapter bearings, standard bearings, seals, shims, spacers & instructions, to install the newer style JK44 gear set with a Dana 44 carrier 3.73 & lower (or Posi) into the old standard pinion D44 housings. Gear ratios available: 4.11, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, & 5.38. Jana 3/8" thick cover girdles also available.
If you can install ring & pinions & use a die grinder you can install this strength improving kit. If you are running alloy axles then you need this kit as the Ring & Pinion is now the weak link in your drive-train. This kit allows you to upgrade to 31, 32, 33 or 35 spline axles without having the limited strength of the 44 ring and pinion, yet not lose any ground clearance. Questions please email us or call 8-5 Pacific time M-F 360-598-2773 carl@jantzengineering.com577936
Basic kit is pictured here with a 1350 Pinion yoke. 1310 yokes are also available.
577937


The Newer JK44 Pinion shaft is the same diameter as a Dana 60 it uses a unique 1 5/16" 24 spline shaft requiring a new yoke supplied in the kit. Here are the 1350 & 1310 series yokes. 577938

How its Done
1st, we have to get the larger gear in the housing. Since the Jk44 ring gear is approximately 1/2" larger in diameter the than the D44 ring gear there needs to be 1/4" clearance around the D44 ring gear in the housing to clear it, most 44 housings are cast with approximately 3/16" clearance, so only very small amount of grinding in a few spots is necessary.

2nd, we have to get the pinion in, and it needs different bearings to accommodate the larger shaft size. luckily there is room to get the parts in with the proper spacers, shims and adapter rings.

3rd, The larger and thicker ring gear needs a carrier that moves the ring gear away from the pinion. To do this a D44 3.73 & lower numerically carrier is used. So even though you are installing 4.11 series & up numerically you need the 3.73 & down numerically carrier to get the ring gear flange farther away from the pinion center line.The carrier is also drilled to accept the larger JK44 ring gear bolts.

Update:
If you have found this thread you will be very interested in these threads which deal with each hybrid in our product line specifically;

HOW TO Install
D50s into HPD44's, Jana 54:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=948996
D70s into D60s, Jana 76:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=946421
D80s into D70's Jana 87: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=958266
Holding it all together, Jana cover girdles:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=958047

Cost Benefit Analysis
1st the Benefits,

Your Ring & Pinion is 44% stronger! with no loss of ground clearance.
Dana rates the 44 @ 3460 Ft-lbs maximum momentary output torque.
Although I could not get exact figures from Dana the pictures show that the JK44 gears are beefier than a D50 set and since Dana rates the 50 @ 5000 Ft-lbs maximum momentary output torque.
Your going to get more than 1500 ft-lb increase in capacity.
Also if you have alloy axles, then your current week link is the most difficult and expensive part to repair ie, the ring & pinion. Lets not have that.

2nd the Cost,

The net cost is only $150 bucks, and a few more minutes labor.
If you compare the cost of the new school gears to the old school gears they are within a few bucks of each other. Now if your gonna do this right then you need a new installation and bearing kit as well, this is gonna set ya back about $150. Your gonna buy a posi/ locker anyway so that doesn't even figure in.

The cost of a Jana K4 kit is approximately $300* (most kits, subject to change).
Thus net cost around $150.
Folks, this is a No brainer

*May also purchase, Axle tube seals, HD yokes, & Jana cover girdle (more on this later)

For comparison purposes all these gears sets are 4.11s.
The teeth on the JKs are a 1/4" longer, curvier, and angled more than the others enlarging the contact area between the gears thus lowering the stress concentrations.

577939
577940

We of course can sell you everything necessary for this hybrid conversion. But there are also plenty of wrecking yard finds for the cost conscious.
The question I get the most is " What carrier do I need to find to work with this Hybrid kit?" The answer is any 44 carrier/posi/locker that is made for 3.73 & down numerically gears. (sometimes referred to as a High speed carrier). The next question I get is "I already have a D44 3.92 & up carrier/posi/locker, can it be made to fit?" Unfortunately the answer is typically no. However If you have a ARB air locker we can supply you with a new case 1/2 and air cap assembly so you can put your internals in it. There are also the new Jeep Rubicon & JK OEM factory air lockers that will fit.

When you ask your gears to do more you are also asking you housing to do more, several after market suppliers have upgrades such as 4340 billet bearing caps, and aluminum covers with load bolts to keep the carrier caps from defecting under extreme pressure, and Even Toyota is using a one piece carrier cap girdle that hoops over the ring gear to prevent the caps from spreading. So since you need that bullet proof cover to protect your investment from rock damage you might as well have it prevent housing defection as well. Our covers incorporate both the load bolt and the cap girdle in one unit. I can also do this to your existing cover if you have already invested in a HD unit. For more info please follow this link: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=958047

Some hope for the LP guys, I like it! As soon as I can get mine out on the trail and initial bugs worked out, this certainly is the path i'll be taking. Thanks!

$270 Jana K4 Base kit*

Options:

$36 Pair of carrier bearings (stock type bearings) or $50 some aftermarket carrier brgs
$50 Upgrade to 1350 yoke (base kit comes with 1310)
$225 cover Girdle
$45 (3) qt. Severe gear 250
$232 Ring & pinions: 4.10s 4.88s, 5.13, 5.38 ($253 4.56)
$25 pair of inner axle seals 30 & 33 spline ($20 for 35 spline)
$30 Pinion head set up bearing race

* Base kit now comes standard with solid preload spacer & shims. (no crush sleeves).

Note: prices do not include shipping or tax and are subject to change.

We will meet or beat Randy's online pricing for Lockers.

Hi Carl, great infos on your kits here!
Do you ship to europe?

Hi Carl, great infos on your kits here!
Do you ship to europe?
I've shipped to Guam and & Canada, I'll figure it out. What are you working on.?

How much is the ARB adapter?

$240 Jana K4 Base kit

Options:

$36 Pair of carrier bearings
$40 Upgrade to 1350 yoke (base kit comes with 1310)
$225 cover Girdle
$45 (3) qt. Severe gear 250
$210 Ring & pinion: 4.88s, 5.13, 5.38 ($253 4.56)
$25 pair of inner axle seals 30 & 33 spline ($20 for 35 spline)
$40 Pinion head set up bearing
$13 Upgrade to solid pinion preload spacer & shims (kit comes with crush sleeves)

Note: prices do not include shipping or tax and are subject to change.

We will meet or beat Randy's online pricing for Lockers.

Any reason I couldn't use 4.27s?

Any reason I couldn't use 4.27s?
thank you, I did not realize 4.27s were available, where did you find them?

Have you tried putting one of these kits in a Honda Passport rear? I just picked one of these up and have heard the pinion bearing is larger.

Have you tried putting one of these kits in a Honda Passport rear? I just picked one of these up and have heard the pinion bearing is larger.

Ok so understanding that 93 and up and they were used on both the Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos, along with some years of Nissan Titans, I just need to know what bearings they used to do some calculating, For the correct bearing / spacer combo for pinion depth,
Then (as you said in your PM) the thing that would really work for These applications is from the factory they use thick cut gears so even if the axle has 4.10's 4.30's or 4.56's & up the carrier is a 3.73 and numerically lower carrier.) So it can take the thicker JK gears without needing to swap to a different carrier or locker.

Karl do you think the k4 setup would withstand 40'' goodyears on a tj. I am wanting to run 40's but I want to save weight as much as possible. What would be my weak link if I were to run wagoneer front 44 with a passport rear with your set up. For know it would have stock engine/trans/transfercase. What lockers are available in 35 spline.

Karl do you think the k4 setup would withstand 40'' goodyears on a tj. I am wanting to run 40's but I want to save weight as much as possible. What would be my weak link if I were to run wagoneer front 44 with a passport rear with your set up. For know it would have stock engine/trans/transfercase. What lockers are available in 35 spline.
I've given this considerable thought. Yes you can get a 35 spline Air Locker for the 44. But if you go 35 spline axles the ring & pinion is the weak link once again. 40" tires if caught between a rock and hard place can break 60 parts. However I've seen plenty of 40s on stock d44 as long as you drive them accordingly. But eventually something snaps, so you are looking for a reasonably long lasting solution that will not break the bank. Here is my Professional recommendation.
Run 33 spline inner axles that are comp cut* & 19 spline outer axles with Super Joints. Carry a spare outer axle. This makes you a weak link that is trail manageable. The comp cut axles will allow some torsional flex in the system such that your gears, hubs, & U-joints do not see the shock loads seen with thick axles thus preventing lots of fatigue. I would not run 30 spline outer for the following reason, If they snap inside the spindle there is no room for them to break and they will destroy your wheel bearings as the axle parts expand. (Been there done it 5 times)
*Comp Cutting or Wasted diameter axles work like this, Just as a bolt is no stronger than the root diameter of the threads an axle is no stronger than the root diameter of the splines. So an axle reduced to the root diameter is just as strong as a thick axle yet it will wind up along its length instead of snap at the spline. For more on this please review this thread:http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=917868

Thanks for the reply. I am considering this a option because of the limit availblity of ford dana 60,s in my area. Also I think that with the weight savings less likely to brake parts. I would eventualy run a stock ls engine at some point but I dont want to do more work later on down the road. Where do you get your comp axles. And also I guess it would be a bad idea to use the Dana 50 knuckles for the larger shafts as the ring and pinion would be the fuse. Again thanks for the info.

Where do you get your comp axles.

I would be happy to make them for you.

Karl are you buying blanks and if so who from, and how much. Also is a 5.38 gear set available for both waggy 44 and passport 44.

Would there need to be machining for a 35 spline ARB with this different gear set? I know I saw something about that in the HP44 w/50 gears thread, don't know if it applies here as well.

Would there need to be machining for a 35 spline ARB with this different gear set? I know I saw something about that in the HP44 w/50 gears thread, don't know if it applies here as well.

No machining required, however, you will have to drill the ring gear bolt holes size la
rger.

No machining required, however, you will have to drill the ring gear bolt holes size la
rger.

That's what I needed to know, thanks!

Can you use this kit for both lp and hp configurations? If so, what would you recommend more in the front hp application, d50 or jk d44 gears?

Need to regear by TJ RUBI axles. Would it be to my advantage to run JK gears? If so can you please provide a quote or 513s and your kit. Thanks

so, if you put a larger pinion into the same housing, there is now less room for the bearings. Is there any strength or durability issues with the new pinion bearings??? Are the stud-girdles a necessity, or just nice to have? I am regearing an older 44 and just found out about this new option.

Also, what is the cost for the bearing/install kit with a 1310 yoke?

so, if you put a larger pinion into the same housing, there is now less room for the bearings. Is there any strength or durability issues with the new pinion bearings??? Are the stud-girdles a necessity, or just nice to have? I am regearing an older 44 and just found out about this new option.

Also, what is the cost for the bearing/install kit with a 1310 yoke?

Good questions, Thanks for asking.
The stock 44 pinion head bearing has a load rating of 19,700 lbf.*
The Jana K4 head bearing is rated 19,700 lbf. Only 3.5% weaker. So considering that you rarely see pinion bearing failures in stock 44s even when the pinion breaks I'd say we are in the safe range. Also considering that a Dana 50 pinion head bearing is only rated at 16,000 lbf I would conclude the 44 is well over designed in this case. Now on to the Pinion tail bearing, I actually use a wider bearing in the rear rated at 18,700 lbf compared to the stock 44 at only 13,700 lbf.
Now think the following over: A rear Low pinion gear set pushes the ring gear around thus the main thrust is on the head bearing. Conversely, a front low pinion pulls the ring gear around thus the main thrust load is taken up by the tail bearing, so in a front end the Jana K4 is way a head on bearing capacity.
As for cover girdles, if you look at any consistent drag racer they are using covers designed with Jack Bolts in them to prevent cap failure, and many after market companies supply them. 4 wheeling puts way more stress on housings than most drag cars, so the Girdles are not only the Icing on the cake but a good way of extending the life of your investment.
For pricing check out Post #6, and the prices were recently updated.
*Dynamic Radial Load Rating - 1 M revs Pounds Force Per Timken Web Site.

This would be jk rubi 44 gears. As standard jk 44 is the same as regular 44. Arb says their locker is for standard jk 44 not for rubi 44


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This would be jk rubi 44 gears. As standard jk 44 is the same as regular 44. Arb says their locker is for standard jk 44 not for rubi 44


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Are you saying there are two types of JK gears one standard and one improved? as there are definate differences between a jk44 and a standard 44.

Yes jk rubi 44s are the big gears standard jk 44 is same as any other 44. Lockers are very limited on rubi 44s as well, and the factory one sucks


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Only ones that are larger are rubicon 44 axles


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So the air locker needed would be a RD157 from a JK or would the RD147 with drilled out ring gear bolt holes be the locker of choice?

inquiring minds want to know.

plus i still want to see a JK R&P vs Ford 9" or 8.8 picture to show the strength similarity
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0204_ford_9_inch_axle/photo_02.html


especially since im going to be ordering some shiznit from you to do a hybrid 44 LP front end guess i can call it a 608.9 playing off the 609 movement.

So the air locker needed would be a RD157 from a JK or would the RD147 with drilled out ring gear bolt holes be the locker of choice?

inquiring minds want to know.

plus i still want to see a JK R&P vs Ford 9" or 8.8 picture
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0204_ford_9_inch_axle/photo_02.html

OK the problem with using an RD 157 is that the bearing ODs (3.307) are much larger than the stock old school D44 brgs.( 2.265") and and the IDs are also different. So even though you can get bearings that would have the correct IDS and ODS the air cylinder and master shims would be the wrong IDS & ODS. So unless one fell in your lap and you were a machinist with lots of spare time, it is going to be easier to just get the 147 and drill it out.

plus i still want to see a JK R&P vs Ford 9" or 8.8 picture to show the strength similarity


I could do that picture but it will not be perfectly fair as I do not have the same gear ratios. But I would say the 8.8 Ford is going to be a little stronger, but if you are going to make a hybrid then why not just go with the 609. heck a few years ago I made some hybrids crossing 12B with d44 axles, and they worked very well.

I could do that picture but it will not be perfectly fair as I do not have the same gear ratios. But I would say the 8.8 Ford is going to be a little stronger, but if you are going to make a hybrid then why not just go with the 609. heck a few years ago I made some hybrids crossing 12B with d44 axles, and they worked very well.

Gotta be the same ratios

everybody and their brother has one and they spent upwards of $3k on a housing, ARB, gears, a nodular case and welding everything together. Id rather stick to subtle upgrades that are hidden from sight and dont scream "I'M a BILLY BAD ASS" its more fun when everyone thinks you "just" have a D44 and since i've got to stay Low pinion its lots cheaper keeping with the J20 44 housing with 3" tubes that i have, even with doing your kit...... at least the way i see it. anyways whats the difference between a RD99 and a RD147 last i checked the iD of a ford 9" ring gear doesnt allow for anything more than a smaller case than a D44. actually one could possibly argue that the RD99 is smaller and possibly slightly weaker than a RD147. im no engineer but side by side the dana 44 ARB is bigger inside and out

Im going to take the plunge i'll detail it in my old school build thread if i create a sepereate thread i'll edit this post. but plan on me calling and getting this going


The plan is to use the D61 knuckles, C's and 35 spline shafts + hubs etc on the D44 housing i get pumpkin clearance thats better than if id stuck with the 61 housing and lower weight all in a sua application

so if i throw the 8.9" JK R&P in there im pretty much just a smidge under what a 9" in strength and in a Low pinion front application without buying a strange or other beefy drop out id think id be doing pretty good.

I may be off my rocker but my opinion is a LP is better suited for most of my front end activities, i've never broken a R&P going forward it always seems to be in reverse when the front end is loaded up with all the weight and this happens to be when a HP doesnt shine so well. so for me it LP. Either way the added beef is a welcome addition


hence it could be called the 608.9 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026121) front end

A few side by sides


Pictures speak louder than words


4.56:1 std dana 44 pinion on the left, 4.88 JK dana 44 pinion on the right

since i was an idiot and for got to rotate JK 44 pinion is on bottom, std dana 44 on the top
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/44410/2727571920060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2727571920060221230VYwAhl)


http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/49265/2830937230060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2830937230060221230bOgYql)



---------------------------------------
And for comparisons sake a 4.88 JK pinion on the left and a 4.88 dana 60 pinion on the right

or since i was an idiot and for got to rotate JK is on top dana 60 on the bottom
http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/30066/2315248990060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2315248990060221230iRIAVi)

http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/49518/2014617820060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2014617820060221230WfDMMt)

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/49205/2374643740060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2374643740060221230MrgTIU)


left to right Dana 60 4.88, JK 4.88, std D44 4.56

there is a bump on the bottom of the dana 60 pinion that makes it look higher than it is same as the flash making the pinion splines of the jk look bigger than the dana 60 look at all angles and judge for yourself
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/31151/2912951730060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2912951730060221230LqJaQA)

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/49398/2345256050060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2345256050060221230cyreBT)

This last one really drives it home
http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/48210/2972801350060221230S425x425Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2972801350060221230qIutLY)

Currently I have a stock setup with 35's. Looking to regear with the possibility of 38-40 tires in the future. Looking at the RCV front shafts. I looked at your website but didnt' see information on this kit. Does this kit only work on the rear axle or both front and back.

What are my options? Ideally I want to run up to 40's (probably a pipe dream on the 44's) I would trus up the front and rear axles. I would trus the Knuckles. Cro-moly in the rear. Advice appreciated.
Thanks

Currently I have a stock setup with 35's. Looking to regear with the possibility of 38-40 tires in the future. Looking at the RCV front shafts. I looked at your website but didnt' see information on this kit. Does this kit only work on the rear axle or both front and back.

What are my options? Ideally I want to run up to 40's (probably a pipe dream on the 44's) I would trus up the front and rear axles. I would trus the Knuckles. Cro-moly in the rear. Advice appreciated.
Thanks

The kit will fit any old school D44 low pinion, front or rear. As for 40's, Id say OK for the front end, and a reasonable driving style, and yes they will hold up to 40s in the rear, but realistically you need more there. 37 to38 is a reasonable max in the rear. I have several customers even running 41s in the front of their trail rigs, and snow 4 wheelers. (note for High pinion old school 44s use the Jana 54 kit).

OK for the front end, and a reasonable driving style, and yes they will hold up to 40s in the rear, but realistically you need more there. 37 to38 is a reasonable max in the rear.

I just had one more thought on this:
So I would say if you are 6cly 40s ok in rear, but with a V-8 I would say no.

I just had one more thought on this:
So I would say if you are 6cly 40s ok in rear, but with a V-8 I would say no.

Sorry to walk away from gears for a sec, but in regard to axle strength. Carl, Have you ever had someone ask you to make better shafts for a d44 for ttb? Sorry if this is a question you get asked to much. But im looking for some way to run a locker ( if even possible ) in my f250. Its a 85 standard cab, 460, t-18, 1356, stock 3.54 gears. Im still using stock sized tires. 285/75/16. Going bigger would be cool but ill wait for the day a d60 lands in my arms. I would like to try to be able to use a locker in it without worrying so much about a joint and shaft blowing up so easy. Stock sized tires, but with a heavy big engined truck and after seeing how large the d70 in the rear is... I worry lol. It be nice to hit the naches trails this summer feeling a bit more comfortable.

I have wanted to snag a d50 3rd and a 50 slip shaft to help there. I have seen where a dana 50 ttb used your jana 65 kit and had d60 axles worked in but wasn't sure if I would have to go that far. Just want to get some advice from someone who has run these trails up here so you know what my rig will try to run through lol. The big tard that it is. Thanks.

Sorry to walk away from gears for a sec, but in regard to axle strength. Carl, Have you ever had someone ask you to make better shafts for a d44 for ttb? Sorry if this is a question you get asked to much. But im looking for some way to run a locker ( if even possible ) in my f250. Its a 85 standard cab, 460, t-18, 1356, stock 3.54 gears. Im still using stock sized tires. 285/75/16. Going bigger would be cool but ill wait for the day a d60 lands in my arms. I would like to try to be able to use a locker in it without worrying so much about a joint and shaft blowing up so easy. Stock sized tires, but with a heavy big engined truck and after seeing how large the d70 in the rear is... I worry lol. It be nice to hit the naches trails this summer feeling a bit more comfortable.

I have wanted to snag a d50 3rd and a 50 slip shaft to help there. I have seen where a dana 50 ttb used your jana 65 kit and had d60 axles worked in but wasn't sure if I would have to go that far. Just want to get some advice from someone who has run these trails up here so you know what my rig will try to run through lol. The big tard that it is. Thanks.

Realistically unless you do the 65 in the future, do the Jana 54 and then I would suggest a set of alloy axles & super-joints. As long as you don't do any wheel hopping, then you will be fine with the tires you are running.

So you could use rear JK gears on a LP44 like a wagoneer with your kit?

So you could use rear JK gears on a LP44 like a wagoneer with your kit?

Yes the JK gears will fit in all D44 LPs front or rear with my kit.

Howdy Carl, I already have your jk kit with the diff cover and load bolts for the rear,and I'm very happy with the quality of it. I'm now at a point to build up my front diff,that being said, I have a LP waggy housing, and a ford HP PSD housing, and could one as easily as the other.

As far as the application, it's going in a cj7 with a stock chevy 5.3, and crawl ratio of around 115. RCV's and an ARB (provided EndorphinJunky ever gets it to me) are going in the front and 36-38" tires depending on what I find a deal on at the time.


So on one hand you have the jk44 with a beefier pinion, better design, and possibly larger ring gear (I'm not sure), but it is low pinion. On the other hand the d50 is high pinion which is the only benefit that i can really see, but i'm a noob, and don't know my ass from my elbow when it comes to anything mechanical. So here is my question: does the high pinion of the d50 R&P overcome it's other shortcomings vs the jk R&P, or vise versa? Which would you recommend for a front housing? Sorry to be so long winded, thanks for your time.

Carl, If I understand all of this right a Jana 54 would still stronger than a Jk44, right? Thanks for all of this information.:)

Carl, If I understand all of this right a Jana 54 would still stronger than a Jk44, right? Thanks for all of this information.:)
Well if you had asked me this a month ago I would say that the JK44s are beefier, just slightly. But I have done some actual gear teeth defection experiments and what I find is the under full load gears running in the directing they were originally designed to run, deflect a few thousandts of an inch, but when run in reverse they defect around .030", thus there is 10 times more deflection in reverse than fwd. For the complete experiment please see the Load Bolt Thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1059807 ( this is not the jack bolts i am putting in the girdle covers) So for front ends I say use the HP gears and for rear ends use the low pinion gears.
But then there is that theory that going fwd on a front end isnt as hard as backing up on a front end so it is good to have LP gears in the front. Now that I have kits to put load bolts on the back sides of the gear sets to prevent deflection I am leaning back to the JK 44 gears are best. If used in a front end with the girdle cover, jack bolts, and the New Load bolt set up. Still we are splitting hairs here, so I wouldn't start over if I already had a HP44 in either end, I would put the 50 gears in and run the reinforcements. . So One of my customers built a Hybrid JK44 d60 front end and he does not have the load bolt set up in it yet, and has beat it hard without failure. Please read his opinion as well. The entire thread is fantastic and he has a really good update to start with at post 41. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026121&highlight=608+9

Oh and one more foot note, the Jana K4 is the easiest to do of all my kits, requiring minimal housing modifications if any at all.

Thanks for the quick reply Carl, just one other question which may show my ignorance. Why not HP JK44 R&P in an old school HP44 housing? Thanks for your time.

Thanks for the quick reply Carl, just one other question which may show my ignorance. Why not HP JK44 R&P in an old school HP44 housing? Thanks for your time.
Although dana made the pinion shaft larger, they did not make the ring gear any larger and they did not improve the size of the teeth, So seeing both side by side I would go with the D50. And a with the larger ring gear you also get the advantage of having enough room on the back side of the ring gear to run a load bolt. So the 50 gives the advantage of having gear teeth running in the correct way in a front end, and the load bolt gives the advantage of preventing ring gear deflection when backing up out of deep sh*t.

So with the premise that we are working with a Waggy 44 in a jeep with a V8, what is the largest tire the Ring and Pinion will take safely? 38s?

So with the premise that we are working with a Waggy 44 in a jeep with a V8, what is the largest tire the Ring and Pinion will take safely? 38s?

Mud boggin,(40) rock crawlin (37 stickys, 39 std) snow wheelin. (42)
you did say safely, but we have all seen less tires brake stuff, and seen people run larger tires on less stuff.

Have you had a chance to fit a 35 spline Dana60 lockrite in a D50 carrier and incorporate them with this gear set yet? Or is an ARB locker still the only real way to get a 35 spline locker to work with this set up?

Have you had a chance to fit a 35 spline Dana60 lockrite in a D50 carrier and incorporate them with this gear set yet? Or is an ARB locker still the only real way to get a 35 spline locker to work with this set up?
I have not had a chance to actually try it, so far just put the D60 side gears in a D50 carrier. A little machine work in the carrier and a little machine work on the end of the side gear. If you had a lock right, send it in with a carrier, and I will see if its possible, I would do the first one for free just to prototype/ proof of concept.

Mud boggin,(40) rock crawlin (37 stickys, 39 std) snow wheelin. (42)
you did say safely, but we have all seen less tires brake stuff, and seen people run larger tires on less stuff.

lol...when i say safely i mean gettin it...not pussy footin up the hill :D

lol...when i say safely i mean gettin it...not pussy footin up the hill :D
I'll stick with my tire size recommendations for an experienced driver, If you are gonna be gettin it, (or drunk) and I assume you are talkin rock bouncin then you need a Jana 76.