Ok, first off, if there is a thread on this and I didn't see it, just post the link and this thread can stop... But if not...

I really want to know the "break order list" for these FToys. I am probably the ONLY FToy currently running STOCK birfields (yeah, I know), and I also know that they will be the first thing I break. Truth be told, I plan on getting Longs in about a week, once my taxes come back. So, here's the question... After birfields are upgraded, the hub gears are next and are usually upgraded at the same time. Once I upgrade those, what is next? Ring and Pinions? Rear axles? Maybe TCase input shaft? I just don't know what to watch out for next. I've been so careful not to break a birfield that I haven't worried about anything else...

I know everyone's experience will be different, so please post the order in which your parts broke and the upgrade that led to that breakage, and maybe we can see a pattern.

Thanks!

when you order your longs, get his output shaft as well and flange kit with 6 pins. that right there is about it. invest in arb's and learn how to use them, and you won't break nothing else

I just got the longs and hub gears and the only thing i've broke so far is a rear 3rd, and sheered off a couple of steering studs. The 3rd the cross pin let loose and split the carrier and the studs were my fault for not making sure they were tight.

I mostly just do trail riding so no comp abuse for me yet.

Hobie is pretty much right, however anything can be broken under the right circumstances. Comp will break parts because you will drive harder, and do things you really wouldnt do on a trail run. Dropping ledges, climbing while under a time constraint. FWIW, The only drivetrain parts we havent replaced are the rear driveshaft, and the crawl box.

You are on the right track but just to be clear you need to get inner axles with the longfields. You can go with stock inners but the short side inner will fail eventually. Bobby's hub upgrade, yes definately. 30 spline output, yes but I would get inner axles first. While you have it apart I would upgrade the steering studs to IRP. You can get them from Brian at Front Range off Road.

Once you get these upgrades you are pretty much good to go for the front (assuming you have cross over steering). Then it's all about maintenance. steering stud and steering stop maintenance is something that is easy to do but it's the single biggest thing people overlook that ends up causing huge problems.

We put in the 30sp longs and hub gears during the build, as well as the ARP studs. No issues here.
First comp, we broke a front r&p.
2nd comp, we broke a rear output. Upgraded to the Longfield output.
Then we broke the 4.7 21sp input. We upgraded to the Marlin Chromo 23sp 4.7s.
Then we twisted a rear driveline, horseshoe'd the rear housing, and broke a pinion (all within 5 feet). We upgraded to Diamonds front and rear and a square driveline.
We also broke the hub lockouts at every event, so we upgraded to flanges.
Last thing we broke was the stock rear axle, which we just put in a stock replacement.
Havent broke anything else...yet

good points.

never run a 21 spline input. i just assume people have already called marlin and got the 23 spline.

the arp studs work great! IF IF IF you maintain them and the proper specs and check before every run.

just like your ubolts. they stretch every run and every time you tighten them, so if you get under there and tighten the mess out of them, you are just causing pre mature failure. we hit ours at 90 lbs before every trail ride

I mostly just do trail riding so no comp abuse for me yet.

I only do trail riding. No comps for me...

You are on the right track but just to be clear you need to get inner axles with the longfields. You can go with stock inners but the short side inner will fail eventually. Bobby's hub upgrade, yes definately.

Once you get these upgrades you are pretty much good to go for the front (assuming you have cross over steering).

I was planning on 30 splines from the get-go...

And I have TG's High Steer...

good points.

never run a 21 spline input. i just assume people have already called marlin and got the 23 spline.

just like your ubolts. they stretch every run and every time you tighten them, so if you get under there and tighten the mess out of them, you are just causing pre mature failure. we hit ours at 90 lbs before every trail ride

EVERYTHING is currently stock on my buggy, except dual cases (both stock), and high steer. Stock gears, motor, even the rear driveshaft is the stock one shortened. For the front i used the stock shaft and just made it a square shaft. I tried to keep this low-budget. I only have about 8k invested...

And yes, I check steering studs, doubler hardware, ubolts, wheel nuts, ect. every time I go wheeling. I have a friend that has done alot of non-comp wheeling and he hasn't broken any steering studs ect. just by keeping an eye on them...

Oh, just a background on my and my 'wheeling style: My last rig was an 87 IFS truck, and with that all I broke was a few idler arms, a front axle stub shaft (broke clean at the diff), and I ripped a rear diff drain plug out lol. Short of that, all other trucks were near-stock Tacomas and my first car which was a 76 Landcruiser FJ40 that I gave hell to for a long while...

So, no major comp stuff for me. I just wanted a rig that I could go 'wheeling anywhere I wanted without fear of body damage, rolling over, or finding parts (hence the simplistic- all stock build)...

I DO however dont want to be that "guy on the trail" with a kick-ass buggy that is broke because I overbuilt my axle and forgot to bring some stupid part that breaks easy with me...

And yes, I check steering studs, doubler hardware, ubolts, wheel nuts, ect. every time I go wheeling. I have a friend that has done alot of non-comp wheeling and he hasn't broken any steering studs ect. just by keeping an eye on them...

fyi, once 1 breaks, replace them all on that arm.

East coast seems like we see more trunion bearing failures so maybe put the TG eliminators on the list or at minimum get a pull scale and be sure yours are properly adjusted as most guys don't get them tight enough otherwise. Aside from that I agree with everything said above.

I broke a rock light once.... if you upgrade to the sixshooters, u probably won't have to worry about checking the studs. The only thing is, it became such a habit before I got them, that I still seem to do it just out of habit.

Nice thing about wheelin' with a bunch of Toyota guys using the same parts--even the guys who still have full bodies--is you set your torque wrench and check knuckle studs in the morning before you go out--just pass the wrench around...then change sockets and torque and check ubolts! :laughing:

It was a regular KOH morning ritual for us while drinking coffee. :laughing:

Nice thing about wheelin' with a bunch of Toyota guys using the same parts--even the guys who still have full bodies--is you set your torque wrench and check knuckle studs in the morning before you go out--just pass the wrench around...then change sockets and torque and check ubolts! :laughing:

It was a regular KOH morning ritual for us while drinking coffee. :laughing:

yes it is. when we would run 4 trails at a time, he would always break out the 17 half way through

Very helpful stuff for a guy coming into this with limited toyota experience.
Thanks Guys.

With the six shooters knuckles every time I check the studs they are tight, so you can leave the tools in the tool bag. I run arp hub studs and drive flanges, arp knuckle studs and trunion eliminators, longfield 30 splines ( I have lots of friends running the dirty thirtys also appears to be a great product) that appears to be the most bulletproof setup for me in the front. Rear output on the t case is a must and 23 spline 470. The only left to improve would be heat treated and cryoed ring and pinion. I still break stuff but that is just my heavy foot and the hammers.:smokin:

Drive flanges with the big dowel pins are a must if you have longs. With those, longs, detroit, 6th stud steerin knuckles, and a high pinion in the front (even with 5.29s) I have not had any problems. I run 4 link rear with 5.29s and a spool with stock axles. You will not break the rear factory axles. The ring pinion breaks before they do and will every time. The gears are just not big enough to deal with extreme hardcore wheelin comp or not for longer than a year. All the stress is on the rear end. Ive launched my truck in 3rd gear in 4.7 and been almost verticle in the air a couple times and when it comes back down the front end will competely stop movin for a second or two until it bounces back up but it still gets the rear ring pinion everytime.

I seem to have the ability to break every part in the Toyota drive train, just shuffle the fuse around in the system.:flipoff2: