Tow Rig Pictures [Archive]

Hooper

11-18-2002, 11:35 AM

Rear axle is 8450, front is either 2200 or 3200, I can't remember, and I can't make it out from the picture.

Dual tanks, one fills from passenger corner of cab, the main fills from in front of the driver door. Driver door sags, but there is no rust on the rockers or floorboards. Some rust on the front passenger kickwall. Amp meter works on dash, and fuel guage works when secondary tank is selected, but guage does not work when primary guage is selected. 40 lbs of pressure in the engine on the highway, around 15 at idle. Water temp ran at 185 the whole way.

Front windshield is cracked, but not leaking, no sign of interior water at all. Upholstery is in pretty good shape, with the vinyl on the driver side, vertical portion of bench cracked open. Wipers work, heater does not.

Dang bias ply tires when thump thump thump all the way home (hour or so) Severe IFS wear on the inside of the front tires. Rear are fine.

Carb base gasket is leaking, and the carb flooded the engine when I came to the first light at end of offramp after being on freeway for an hour. Fired right up after and did not flood again...

Steering is very light, but it tracks straight and easily. Oversteers though, probably a function of the wear on the tires...

uglyscout

11-18-2002, 12:14 PM

Holy shizzo! Whe you said it was buried in a bard you weren't kidding.

NICE! Scrap of all the old dirt and you've got your self one swinging tow machine.

Hooper

11-18-2002, 12:34 PM

Originally posted by uglyscout
Holy shizzo! Whe you said it was buried in a bard you weren't kidding.

NICE! Scrap of all the old dirt and you've got your self one swinging tow machine.

Yep, clean her up, put some new front tires on her, diamond in the rough...

Sully

11-18-2002, 12:57 PM

Nice farm tires. :flipoff2:

Sweet score dude... I'm jealous. I gotta get me a full size IH. Replace that flat bed with a camper-back, and you're ready to take on any weekend adventure!

tsm1mt

11-18-2002, 01:12 PM

Originally posted by Hooper
Rear axle is 8450, front is either 2200 or 3200, I can't remember, and I can't make it out from the picture.

Bummer, it's just a Dana. :D

Not 8450.. maybe TOTAL is 8450.. 6450 rear axle rating I might buy.. but not 8450.

Front should be 3500 or 4000lbs. At least, that's what the suspension is rated for.. might have lighter coils, but I doubt it.

I'll have some 3800lbs coils if you want 'em.

Dual tanks, one fills from passenger corner of cab, the main fills from in front of the driver door. Driver door

Both thanks are the same size - 15 gal.

My driver's door sags after it was hit - I need to adjust the hinge. I'm hoping it was just shaken loose.. the rear door and passenger door still open/close fine, just the driver's door leans down a touch.

Then again, maybe the cab got tweaked.. but I'm not going to think about that. ;-)

Severe IFS wear on the inside of the front tires. Rear are fine.

Idler arms, tie-rod ends... lots of TREs in that front steering linkage.

Pretty cool, Pat.. deluxe exterior trim package even, too (chrome trim around the two-tone). I'm jealous. I'll take those 200 Camper Special badges off your hands though.. before you scrape 'em against a tree. :P

What do you have for anti-sway in the front?

Cool rig!

Neps

11-18-2002, 01:39 PM

Nice score Pat.

Looks like the springs are already riding on the overides? Might be a little tired.

:D

Hooper

11-18-2002, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by tsm1mt

Bummer, it's just a Dana. :D

Not 8450.. maybe TOTAL is 8450.. 6450 rear axle rating I might buy.. but not 8450.

Front should be 3500 or 4000lbs. At least, that's what the suspension is rated for.. might have lighter coils, but I doubt it.

I'll have some 3800lbs coils if you want 'em.

Both thanks are the same size - 15 gal.

My driver's door sags after it was hit - I need to adjust the hinge. I'm hoping it was just shaken loose.. the rear door and passenger door still open/close fine, just the driver's door leans down a touch.

Then again, maybe the cab got tweaked.. but I'm not going to think about that. ;-)

Idler arms, tie-rod ends... lots of TREs in that front steering linkage.

Pretty cool, Pat.. deluxe exterior trim package even, too (chrome trim around the two-tone). I'm jealous. I'll take those 200 Camper Special badges off your hands though.. before you scrape 'em against a tree. :P

What do you have for anti-sway in the front?

Cool rig!

Pretty sure it said 8450 rear, although I suppose it could have said GVW8450, not GVWR 8450. Too bad the picture of the VIN did not come out more clearly.

Hmm, gotta go get new tires on the van, maybe I will swing by on the way in a couple of minutes and take another look.

Oooh, deluxe trim package. And to think I bought it cuz it was the stripped down version. Guess I will just have to take it back....

Step away from my Emblems Tom!!! ;)

Didn't check front anti sway, all that IFS confuses me....

15 gallons on the driver tank sounds about right. The selector is screwy. It says *push and twist left*, *pull and twist right*. I assume that means to get the driver side tank, you push it in and twist it left. I do that, and the guage stays on E. Twist it right (without pulling) and the guage goes up to 1/4. If I pull, the knob comes out of the dash, but it has a small slot in the end, that looks like a clip snaps into it (like a headlight switch). I think I cannot select the passenger tank right now, because that knob has pulled out of the switch...? Gonna have to investigate.

Also kind of curious what is under the bench seat. Did not pop it up to take a look.... a little nervous....

Can't imagine why I would need 3800 lb coils... what am I going to be hauling, a tank?? ;)

Harvester of Sorrow

11-18-2002, 01:53 PM

"Can't imagine why I would need 3800 lb coils... what am I going to be hauling, a tank?? :) "

ummmmmm...yeah, your Scout!

I am sure that you are not storing that coooool cattle poaching truck at your nuew house are you?

looks like it will be a winner with some elbow grease...I am also liking the above sugestion of a camper back with some nice skirting.

tsm1mt

11-18-2002, 01:55 PM

Originally posted by Hooper

Pretty sure it said 8450 rear, although I suppose it could have said GVW8450, not GVWR 8450. Too bad the picture of the VIN did not come out more clearly.

My info says the Dana 70 was rated to 7500lbs, as was the RA-15 - IF you don't have a plain old 5500lbs Dana 60.

So unless you have a Dana 80 or something bigger, you "can't" have 8450 on the rear end.

Aside from that, my truck was spec'd with 3,170lbs 16.5 bias ply HD tires.

6,340lbs rating between two of 'em, with 6300lbs rear springs.

It was rated at 6300lbs, since the springs were the weak link.

Maybe yours has the 19.5" rim option? That might make the 8450lbs rear option. :D

15 gallons on the driver tank sounds about right. The selector is screwy. It says *push and twist left*, *pull and twist right*. I assume that means to get the driver side tank, you push it in and twist it left. I do that, and the guage stays on E. Twist it right (without pulling) and the guage goes up to 1/4. If I pull, the knob comes out of the dash, but it has a small slot in the end, that looks like a clip snaps into it (like a headlight switch). I think I cannot select the passenger tank right now, because that knob has pulled out of the switch...? Gonna have to investigate.

Rotate knob to switch the gauge.

Pull/push to actually change which tank delivers fuel.

To verify it's all hooked up, pull the mud-flap/splash-guard out of the passenger front wheel well (rear of it) and you'll see the fuel tank selector valve.

Push/pull moves the cable which in turn "rocks" a lever inside the selector valve, so you should see something (external) moving when you push/pull.

Twisting is just the gauge.

Both of my tank senders work, though niether (IIRC) read "F".. and I can only get 3gal out of the passenger tank, so something's not right there, either.

Can't imagine why I would need 3800 lb coils... what am I going to be hauling, a tank?? ;)

Close, a Scout!

Plus that big "Hooper the Movie Star" and "SSIIs RULE!" head of yours.. :P

Hooper

11-18-2002, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by Neps
Nice score Pat.

Looks like the springs are already riding on the overides? Might be a little tired.

:D

Not quite. They are close though. Probably a little less than an inch of space there still....

TERRA-IZER

11-18-2002, 02:35 PM

Hooper good looking truck, seams like they are popping up every where, 2 months ago i pickup a 74 200 for $300, running 345, auto, dana 60 4.10's, IFS, Ex Colorado Highway truck, minor rust, 7500GVW, pretty clean over all and all the expensive parts (rear dump manifolds and rotors) are in great shape.

Hooper

11-18-2002, 03:01 PM

Originally posted by tsm1mt

My info says the Dana 70 was rated to 7500lbs, as was the RA-15 - IF you don't have a plain old 5500lbs Dana 60.

So unless you have a Dana 80 or something bigger, you "can't" have 8450 on the rear end.

Aside from that, my truck was spec'd with 3,170lbs 16.5 bias ply HD tires.

6,340lbs rating between two of 'em, with 6300lbs rear springs.

It was rated at 6300lbs, since the springs were the weak link.

Maybe yours has the 19.5" rim option? That might make the 8450lbs rear option. :D

OK, OK. I am sure you are right. I'll take another look when I get home, but the vin sticker is peeling off and is hard to read... My father is picking up a big bottle of rust converter to pour over everything... ;)

Rotate knob to switch the gauge.

Pull/push to actually change which tank delivers fuel.

Ahhh, got it. OK. So, the twist part works. I could switch the guage from reading each tank, although the left tank still reads E, even at Full. But, I don't think the push pull mechanism works. I'll check it under the flap. Thanks

To verify it's all hooked up, pull the mud-flap/splash-guard out of the passenger front wheel well (rear of it) and you'll see the fuel tank selector valve.

Push/pull moves the cable which in turn "rocks" a lever inside the selector valve, so you should see something (external) moving when you push/pull.

Twisting is just the gauge.

Both of my tank senders work, though niether (IIRC) read "F".. and I can only get 3gal out of the passenger tank, so something's not right there, either.

Close, a Scout!

Plus that big "Hooper the Movie Star" and "SSIIs RULE!" head of yours.. :P

LOL. Oh yeah. Forgot about that... ;)

Hooper

11-18-2002, 03:03 PM

Originally posted by TERRA-IZER
Hooper good looking truck, seams like they are popping up every where, 2 months ago i pickup a 74 200 for $300, running 345, auto, dana 60 4.10's, IFS, Ex Colorado Highway truck, minor rust, 7500GVW, pretty clean over all and all the expensive parts (rear dump manifolds and rotors) are in great shape.

Actually, I have not peeked at the rotors yet. I was just happy to get it home without major incident, after it had been sitting for who knows how many years....

I'll take a peek at them tonight.

Rear dumps are in good shape though. I checked those already.

The Fleckster

11-18-2002, 03:18 PM

Pat when you are ready to replace thoes springs and coils i have just the kit for ya. I got done doing all that stuff to my 200 you saw at roundup. I adend 800 more load capacity in the rear and a bit more front as well. Also i have a source for new greasable spring pins that you will most likley need as the old ones are worn, and the new spring kit i sell is also a 2" lift over stock.

Later i am heading to Pennsylvainia for vacation with the family.

GO COUGS hoping for #2 in the BCS Bowl race. At least Apple cup and Rose Bowl win.

Ben W

11-18-2002, 03:24 PM

Originally posted by Hooper

Pretty sure it said 8450 rear, although I suppose it could have said GVW8450, not GVWR 8450. Too bad the picture of the VIN did not come out more clearly.

GVWR means Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, not Gross Vehicle Weight Rear. The total GVWR for the truck is 8450.

Hooper

11-18-2002, 03:27 PM

Originally posted by Ben W

GVWR means Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, not Gross Vehicle Weight Rear. The total GVWR for the truck is 8450.

<chuckle>

Umm, a couple folks have been nice enough to remind of that. I saw GVW front, XXXX#'s, and GVWR XXXXX's. Front and rear, right. Duh......

OK. GVVWR is 8,450#'s, as Tom has been telling me... ;)

tsm1mt

11-18-2002, 03:29 PM

Pat - have you dropped the glovebox down to see if the lineset is still on the back of it? Pop the "tabs" so the glovebox door opens 180-deg and it'll be taped to the back - if it's there.

That'll provide a lot of insight into what you have.

Hooper

11-18-2002, 03:57 PM

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Pat - have you dropped the glovebox down to see if the lineset is still on the back of it? Pop the "tabs" so the glovebox door opens 180-deg and it'll be taped to the back - if it's there.

That'll provide a lot of insight into what you have.

I'll pop it open tonight and take a look.... Had no idea where it was. Odds are it is still there.

I'll let you know.

Chief yelling alot

11-18-2002, 04:21 PM

dude you made them kids sit in that

scank-O-ramma :eek:

j/k cool truck

Hooper

11-18-2002, 04:56 PM

Originally posted by Chief yelling alot
dude you made them kids sit in that

scank-O-ramma :eek:

j/k cool truck

LOL. That reminds me. Saturday morning I told my 4 year old that we were going to get a new truck for Daddy. He got all upset and told me that Daddy already had a truck and we were NOT going to get another truck for Daddy. I told him we were keeping the Hooper Truck but getting another one. Still wasn't going for it. OK. We are getting a truck for Grandpa!! For Grandpa? That was a good idea so he would have a *cool truck too!*

Took em out, they all wanted to sit in the cab with me, dirty seat and all..... The four year old goes, *Can you have two trucks?* I told him we could, and he turned to his older brother and said *Daddy has two cool trucks now!!* The older brother (6) just rolled his eyes.

Truth is, all four of us fit comfortably in the front seat. My wife could probably fit in there as well..... This rig is WIIIIIDDDDDDEEEE. Hmm, bench seat. How romantic.... ;)

Be a great rig to take to the drive in... throw some seats on the flat bed, with some pop, maybe a small BBQ..... ;)

tsm1mt

11-18-2002, 05:00 PM

Originally posted by Hooper

Hmm, bench seat. How romantic.... ;)

Be a great rig to take to the drive in... throw some seats on the flat bed, with some pop, maybe a small BBQ..... ;)

Well, how about a Friday or Saturday night parade of IHs to the drive-in as part of NWBRU?

Wouldn't THAT be cool?

Hooper

11-18-2002, 05:02 PM

Originally posted by tsm1mt

Well, how about a Friday or Saturday night parade of IHs to the drive-in as part of NWBRU?

Wouldn't THAT be cool?

That would ROCK!!!

Chief yelling alot

11-18-2002, 05:23 PM

screw that, get a band on that flat deck :cool:

BTW hooper you tought you kids good

GRMhick

11-18-2002, 06:57 PM

little question. but did alot of the IHC trucks come with the shackle flipped down, and the springs under the axle? Any peticular reason why they did that? I always thought it made it tow worse. ALso never seen that setup before (i think just because i only know about old dodges).

All in all, VERY nice truck, expecally for what you paid :flipoff2:

Garrett

Scoutaholic

11-18-2002, 07:46 PM

Cool truck. Clean her up a bit and lets see it in action.:)

RustoleumWhite

11-18-2002, 08:04 PM

Originally posted by Hick
little question. but did alot of the IHC trucks come with the shackle flipped down, and the springs under the axle? Any peticular reason why they did that? I always thought it made it tow worse. ALso never seen that setup before (i think just because i only know about old dodges).

All in all, VERY nice truck, expecally for what you paid :flipoff2:

Garrett

hmm, you know, I didn't notice that, but pats truck IS spring under.

The over loads are on the top, but the main pack is under the axle, and yes, it is a "conventional" shackle arangmment... curious, must be another one of those "74/'75 things....

all the trucks I have had ('69 PU, '70- t-all, couple other in one form or another, my '72 t-lette) were/are all Spring Over, tension shackle....

tommy???

tsm1mt

11-18-2002, 09:06 PM

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite

hmm, you know, I didn't notice that, but pats truck IS spring under.
curious, must be another one of those "74/'75 things....

tommy???

It's a 74-75 thing. All of the 2wd trucks/T'alls for 74-75 got the compression shackle, and I believe they're all rear SUA, but I could be wrong on that. All got the wider rear spring spacing for more stability, too.

Ed Sohm's T'ette had the same setup as Pat's new truck. He moved the springs SOA when he did the 4x4 conversion.

The 4x4 trucks were SOA, but also compression shackle.

The exception to all of this is the 74-75 trucks set up for dual-rear-wheels. I've only SEEN the RA-15 Travelettes, but others existed. Anything with the 9,000 or higher GVWR probably got the old "narrow" spring spacing and the tension shackle, SOA.

My Travelette is, with bronze spring bushings and a stack of overloads n' all. Sits low with the SOA, and the springs are inboard, using the earlier "short" hangers.

My parts 200 4x4 has the wider stance, SOA, and compression shackles.

My '72 1110 T'all has the tension shackle, SOA, narrow (dual-compatible) spring spacing.

Why did IH change all of this around? Dunno.. I haven't really looked into it.

I imagine SUA resulted in less wheel-hop than SOA with the tension shackle. They wanted to lower the truck at the same time for the new IFS front in the 2wds, so they went SUA and used the compression shackle to get the ride height correct.

Unless you got the 1T, and they couldn't get enough spring under the axle, so they went SOA with the tension shackle to bring it back down.

And, of course, on the 4x4 they just wanted to use the same hardware, so they got SOA, but compression shackles.

At least, that makes sense to me when I think about it.

NotQuiteSane

11-19-2002, 01:59 AM

Hoop,

Instead of messing with the valve, why not T the two tanks together so you draw from both at the same time, and install a second guage (or 2 new ones, since yours probably don't work)

NQS

Hooper

11-19-2002, 09:03 AM

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane
Hoop,

Instead of messing with the valve, why not T the two tanks together so you draw from both at the same time, and install a second guage (or 2 new ones, since yours probably don't work)

NQS

DK. Seems like I could do that easily enough, doesn't it? Hard to say how difficult it will be to repair the switch.

Have to check tank heights though. Make sure the tank it draws from is lower than or equal to the height of the passenger tank.

Might be an easy switch fix though....

funny, it draws from the tank the guage does not work from, but the guage works for the tank it won'd draw from.... <sigh> ;)

tsm1mt

11-19-2002, 09:29 AM

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane
Hoop,

Instead of messing with the valve, why not T the two tanks together so you draw from both at the same time, and install a second guage (or 2 new ones, since yours probably don't work)

NQS

The switch is an easy fix, even if it needs rebuilt.

Rebuilding involves removing the cover, replacing 2 or 3 O-rings, and cutting a new gasket for the cover and putting it back on.

It's SIMPLE.

Having two tanks is useful at times, too.

If one leaks, you can run the other until you have time to fix the first.

You always have at least "half capacity" remaining if you run off one tank, and leave the other full. When the rig runs out, you switch tanks, keep on going, and start looking for a gas station.

You could also save a little money by running low-grade fuel in one tank, and premium in the other.. when you come on a hill and it's hot outside and you're pullin' a load and you know it's going to want to ping.. switch to the high-octane. Swap back to cheap stuff on the downhill. :D

Really, it's not a big deal to fix the valve if it's bad.

In my case, I think either my pickup is broken in the tank, or there's a fuel line leak above the tank. I just haven't been that anxious to drop it yet.. and it didn't help when the truck got hit and I ended up swapping on a single-cab's front clip that doesn't have the right-side front filler hole - so even if the pass tank were working, I couldn't get gas into it. :D

I'll be fixing that this winter/spring with the new sheetmetal.

FWIW, one 15gal tank sucks when pulling a load..

Hooper

11-19-2002, 09:47 AM

Originally posted by tsm1mt

The switch is an easy fix, even if it needs rebuilt.

Rebuilding involves removing the cover, replacing 2 or 3 O-rings, and cutting a new gasket for the cover and putting it back on.

It's SIMPLE.

Having two tanks is useful at times, too.

If one leaks, you can run the other until you have time to fix the first.

You always have at least "half capacity" remaining if you run off one tank, and leave the other full. When the rig runs out, you switch tanks, keep on going, and start looking for a gas station.

You could also save a little money by running low-grade fuel in one tank, and premium in the other.. when you come on a hill and it's hot outside and you're pullin' a load and you know it's going to want to ping.. switch to the high-octane. Swap back to cheap stuff on the downhill. :D

Really, it's not a big deal to fix the valve if it's bad.

In my case, I think either my pickup is broken in the tank, or there's a fuel line leak above the tank. I just haven't been that anxious to drop it yet.. and it didn't help when the truck got hit and I ended up swapping on a single-cab's front clip that doesn't have the right-side front filler hole - so even if the pass tank were working, I couldn't get gas into it. :D

I'll be fixing that this winter/spring with the new sheetmetal.

FWIW, one 15gal tank sucks when pulling a load..

Thanks Tom. I figured I would work with the switch first. Looks pretty straightforward.

1. Figure out if it is the dash switch or the line switch.

2. If it is the dash switch, figure out how to fix it.

3. If it is the line switch, figure out how to fix it.

;)

tsm1mt

11-19-2002, 09:55 AM

Originally posted by Hooper

Thanks Tom. I figured I would work with the switch first. Looks pretty straightforward.

1. Figure out if it is the dash switch or the line switch.

2. If it is the dash switch, figure out how to fix it.

3. If it is the line switch, figure out how to fix it.

;)

Shoulda bought this truck a few weeks ago.. I had an extra fuel tank selector valve and knob and cable.

Now I have a clean spot in the driveway, and the dump has a firewall, dash, fuel tank selector knob, cable... :D

From a 1974, even..

Hooper

11-19-2002, 09:59 AM

Originally posted by Chief yelling alot
screw that, get a band on that flat deck :cool:

BTW hooper you tought you kids good

Actually, we did figure we would stack some hay bales on it and take it to Roundup that way next year. A real farm truck, doing real farm work... ;)

It would be a cool platform for a band.

The kids figure these things out on their own. I have good kids. Not to digress, but the wife made me watch maternity ward with her last night (i have been gone a lot recently working on my campaign so I owed her). It was an episode about high risk pregnancy. Wow. Sure made me appreciate my healthy, strong kids. We have our share of minor problems, but.... wow. Some scary stuff. If I saw that program before we had our kids, I might not have had any.....

Sorry. Back to tech.

Can't wait for the younguns to be ready to learn to drive in this old IH iron...

Now, if I could just steal a T-ette from someone... ;)

RustoleumWhite

11-19-2002, 10:01 AM

Originally posted by tsm1mt

Shoulda bought this truck a few weeks ago.. I had an extra fuel tank selector valve and knob and cable.

:D :D so do I :D

I plan on just using a GM style dual tank electric switch when the time comes. The one in my GMC works great, is a simple, nice little toggle switch, no cables to deal with, no push/pull, no 30 year old stuff..... just lean over, flip a switch, and be done :D

tsm1mt

11-19-2002, 10:05 AM

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite

:D :D so do I :D

I plan on just using a GM style dual tank electric switch when the time comes. The one in my GMC works great, is a simple, nice little toggle switch, no cables to deal with, no push/pull, no 30 year old stuff..... just lean over, flip a switch, and be done :D

cheap, aftermarket electric is going in Michelle's 800. She can't reach the valve anyhow.. and it leaks.. (or did, before I bypassed it).

But the valves used in our trucks are simple, easy to rebuild, and as long as the cable is fine.. I see no point in changing it out.

If something should happen to the cable, I might consider setting it up so when you rotate the knob it switches the tank valve AND sender (which is how I'll set up the 800).. but won't be adding any toggles, anyhow.

But the stocker works fine, as is.. and is easy to keep up.

1/2 hour of work to rebuild it (if it needs it) is cheaper than a new electric valve.