i have a 94 runnner having problems with the rotors warping in the cold here in alaska . so i was thinking of the new downey vented rotors with the cross drilling. but my question would be do you think the cross drilling would hold moisture and freeze .this is a big concerne to me. for i am in the land of the 60 below .any body ever use these in the cold or mud ? i have already had these turned and still no luck if it stays above 20 degreese it does not warp but any lower and the brake will drag . i have already repacked the bearings with synthetic grease and installednew bearings checked rotors with a machinist square and a feeler guage and it is within the .0035 out of round the manual calls for.

They are probly just frezzing just live with it and you have not had the cold weather yet:D

When was the last time you flushed your brake system with new fluid??? Brake fluid absorbs water and it is recommended that it be changed once a year.:D

Like I said in a previous post, "Sorry I can't say what the cause for your problem is. I CAN tell you, I've had no noticable troubles on my 93s factory rotors down to -58. To be fair, that was with the stock IFS rotors. I'm not sure what will happen this winter with my SAS setup."

How many rotors have you warped? It's not the cold that's your problem. Like 85toyflatbed said, it's not even cold yet! Something else must be wrong, or your rotors are shit and no amount of resurfacing will help. I've read about un-true hubs causing repeated rotor failure. I wouldn't worry about the Downey rotors and moisture, but the mud might be a concern. But I just don't think fancy rotors are the answer here.

thanks for the advice . i had just flush the hole system this weekend when i pulled it all apart. the whole side is brand new or refinished .i just can't figure it out .when i rebuilt the seals around the caliper i didn't find any grooves or uneven wear on the pistons .the rubbing does not seem as bad in the mornings but it is still there.thanks again.

wayne

My 94 4Runner has experienced this problems but I'm in NJ. I've heard about overtightening the lug nuts, this will cause warpage, don't use any air tools to install the lug nuts, only hand tools and a torque wrench. I found it easier to just replace with stock rotors instead of trying to cut them.

Check your rear brakes, maybe your fronts are doing all the work and you're burning 'em up. Did you lift it and not space up the load sensing valve rod?

Other than that, don't drive your 4skinner like it's a sport compact.

thats interesting . i had broken 2 lug nuts when trying to take off the wheel 2 weeks ago .thier the cheap stock ones but they were monkey gripped. i had sams club put studded tires on when i 1st got here after the snow hit Fairbanks . i never had a problem before that. thanks.and as for driving fast i haven't been over 45 since i been here the roads are solid ice here and haven't melt since . you just wave and smile nice for the camera as you slide through the red light!

The overtorque could be doing it...

Consider this...

When you drive you heat the wheel and rotor assembly up dramatically from the temperature it was at sitting overnight...

You drove to sams, got everything nice and hot, they did the swap and hammered them down. Now keep in mind the metal is expanded from being hot, now park the truck overnight and the metal contracts as it cools thus tightening slightly more...

Try this...get your new rotors and pads, bust the lugs loose when they are hot after a good drive, then let it sit overnight, next morning go out there and remove your wheels do your pad/rotor swap and see what that does.

How warped are they getting ?
YOu said they are flat with a machinist square?

Different types of steal contract and expand with cold and heat. Make sure the hubs that they tightened without a torque wrench i am sure, at Sam's aren't warped now. Use a run out gauge on the truck if you can and check it cold , and then check them in a brake lathe without the hubs, seen this happen here at normal temps so i could just imagine what it does at -60...:)

Did you replace the master cylinder? Did you check the plunger depth before you installed it ? A stuck check vavle can cause the brakes to drag as well,inside the master cylinder.

Try cracking the brake line in the morning to see if you have any residual brake pressure. -60 brings new meaning to survival for sure, love these warm 85 degree Calif days in winter.....lol sorry had to dig you...:)

Makes sure the rears arent dragging also,eastern cars have this problem alot with e-brake cables freezing and not releasing.

Gary :)

Well i went to check the torque on the other lug nuts and it was set at 250ft lbs on the rears .i had not touched the rears because of the rears not having problems.other than bleeding the lines. it explaines why i broke the 2 lug nuts. looks like i will be buying the new rotors. now to tell the wife. i would never of thought of lug tourque could cause this much pain. do you know if craftsman has a warranty on thier torque wrenches i maxed it out .!and thanks for all your help.

Geez.isnt that a shame i hate when people jst impact lug nuts on and never torque them to be sure.
Seen just as many come off as overtorqued as well big guy.

I would definitly take it back to the Sams store and get the manager and let them see the damage they caused , this can't happen any more you need to tell them. And don't let them use the bullshit excuse it was rust either, if they didn't use a torque wrench they over torqued them period!

Amazing after all these years and we still see this happening , simple basics that we were tuaght in auto shop class or learned from a father or uncle or even a grandfather who did repair work. Oh wait that's right we don't want "our" kids to take auto shop ,no son of mine is going to be a mechanic .grease monkey.no sir he's going to Standford to be a doctor or major in Business . Geeezzz ...:mad: sad but true i here that from the shop teachers every week here .

This group of kids coiming through high school doesnt have to have PE and many wont have any kind of vocational program in thier schools . Most cant read fractions on a ruler why would they use a torqure wrench to check lug nuts....;(

Yep we be doing a great job of making sure our kids are better prepared than we were people say, bullcrap...this shows exactly what we dont want ,were raing a bunch of kids that read ,do math and use common sense ,or listen to an adult or ask for help .

How are we going to count on them for help in the old folks home...:D lmfao.....

Check those hubs to big guy when you take off the rotors ,if memory serves me right those rotors are seperate from the hubs.
gary

The sad thing is, they have "torque sticks" that go on the end of an impact and apply proper torque to lugnuts upon reinstallation, they make it simple and a no-brainer install...if you dont' see them use a long colored extension then moan and groan...

Have you actually measured the runout? Also what do you mean by dragging? Are you getting the pusation in the pedal/steering wheel that is commonly felt with warped rotors? If so, your problem MAY be caused by material transfer. It is when friction material imbeds into to rotor surface and causes the same symptoms as warped rotors. Are they genuine Toyota brake pads?

yeah i had checked the runnout and it was good when sitting in my garage but when in the cold it would rub in one spot and as i found out it was way over torqued . i took both lug nuts and recipte over to sam's and they are looking into it they could not find a torque wrench anywhere in the shop ! but they are working with me sooooo we will see . and yes they are all toy parts.