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darkstar 11-19-2002, 05:29 PM I have a slow leak in my transfer case that, after a couple of days, will coat the TC, rear driveshaft, springs, and back window in a fine film of oil. The oil level actually drops very slowly, but damn, is it annoying! Has anyone successfully used any of the auto parts store engine stop-leak snake oil products, or am I doomed to dropping this thing to reseal it (can you tell I want to avoid that like the plague?) road1will 11-19-2002, 05:32 PM if its an output seal its not THAT hard, few hours but you definetly dont have to drop the transfer case or anything like that. i wouldnt try with any of the stop leak stuff, a transfer case and 90wt is so much different from engine oil that you might harm something, i cant say for sure but i wouldnt try it in my truck. if its another seal then my best advice is to just deal with it, after all, it is a land rover and if it doesnt leak then it must be empty :D untrakdrover 11-19-2002, 08:21 PM mine's leaking from the tranny input area. How hard is this one to fix? Discosaurus 11-20-2002, 08:20 AM I don't think dropping the TC is really that big of a deal... After it's off, you can put crawler gears in there ! :D keith :usa: JSBriggs 11-20-2002, 09:08 AM Originally posted by untrakdrover mine's leaking from the tranny input area. How hard is this one to fix? Its about a $6 seal, and you need to drop the Tcase to get to it. If you do replace it make sure you wipe a bit of 90Wt on the fresh seal before you put it back in, or you might get the privilige of doing it again. -Jeff or you can buy some RTV and go to town! :flipoff2: J bradley 11-20-2002, 12:13 PM Joshua - I just fought this battle. You can lower the front sway bars if you still have them and just remove the y-pipe section and then you can unbolt the tranny and xfr case mounts from the frame and lower it mounts and all all with a big jack, you can lower the whole shebang onto the cross member ( atleast with the manual tranny model) , be sure to remove the in-cab shifters as they pull way down too when this is done. This makes getting to the seals and top side bolts much easier. Pull the lt230 off of the tranny output spline to get to the $6 seal. JSBriggs - on our lt230 swap we forgot about the dam solenoid and so it was locked from shifting. So we had to drop it all again and pull out the solenoid after I went back and re-read your post... what a pita! JSBriggs 11-20-2002, 12:33 PM Originally posted by TallBrad JSBriggs - on our lt230 swap we forgot about the dam solenoid and so it was locked from shifting. So we had to drop it all again and pull out the solenoid after I went back and re-read your post... what a pita! Hopefully I didn't mislead, or cause confusion. -Jeff J bradley 11-20-2002, 02:18 PM No way JS - you totally saved our bacon !! Without that one sentence about the solenoid we might have thrown up our hands and just had it towed away out of frustration... we lowered it all back down and yanked out the solenoid and then toasted your name the first time the linkage was all hooked-back up and working!! :beer: Jason DooDoo Brown 11-20-2002, 05:16 PM Transfercase?.......Huh..........And I thought it was a factory anti-corrosion devise. Puffdragon 11-20-2002, 08:53 PM T-case removal and reseal is a snap. But Untrak, make sure its not leaking from the intermediate shaft. This looks like it is coming from the input seal sometimes. If you drop the case, you should replace the tranny output, the t-case input, output seal, the intermediate shaft seals, and reseal the access covers etc. Use right stuff for the access covers, and use permatex aviation for the PTO/bearing race holder, and then use aviation for the PTO cover itself too. | |