Figured I'd cross post this over here for those who don't venture to some of the other forums.

Vehicle originally had ICON coilovers in the front and their shocks/coils in the rear. Lefty and a whole bunch of other goodies to boot.


Out goes the old axle

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TWxQsTZsF_I/AAAAAAAAA6M/DBULbz6DrRk/s640/Axle%201.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TWxQu4S9CdI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/Ws-3ycAOxF8/s640/Axle%202.jpg


In goes the Total Chaos 2" Long Travel setup.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5or_VIEI/AAAAAAAAA7M/2yMNjBXdRcA/s512/DSC_0460.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5nnnYbqI/AAAAAAAAA7I/lYc9NpxJwRY/s512/DSC_0459.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5yN-MC6I/AAAAAAAAA70/uzYVq08wu0I/s512/DSC_0470.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5zy8nXlI/AAAAAAAAA78/2NmMeDAjuTw/s512/DSC_0472.JPG


Rear Axle

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5prxbv4I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/i9lp5Af0doM/s720/DSC_0461.JPG

Misc Parts all over the place

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TX_5wDx3ZrI/AAAAAAAAA7s/rtVPGyGhSMc/s720/DSC_0468.JPG

More of the front and rear comming together.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5DbtTlPI/AAAAAAAAA8g/tC8EL8qvMiA/s512/P1010630.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5E2DZKqI/AAAAAAAAA8k/-676Vi0jvfg/s512/P1010631.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5GpeFd9I/AAAAAAAAA8s/vBxiCPEcn5A/s640/P1010633.JPG


Old link to frame mounts gone.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5JHIfkBI/AAAAAAAAA80/1sHjBWm9Ws8/s640/P1010635.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5L_f3EQI/AAAAAAAAA84/EbIqksDZiOs/s640/P1010636.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5M2GD-YI/AAAAAAAAA88/DQG_q_AkwQw/s640/P1010637.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5NpBxu_I/AAAAAAAAA9A/V0xoeilBCDE/s512/P1010638.JPG

Trying to keep the link mounts from being too low while still targeting the #s on the calculator

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5P106auI/AAAAAAAAA9I/icY_CEHByl4/s640/P1010640.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYP5Ov_1zgI/AAAAAAAAA9E/iDNe2MsNHR4/s640/P1010639.JPG

For reference here is how low they normally hang on an OEM/normal currie 4 link setup.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4490466236_15625721b6.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvc0IpwwI/AAAAAAAAA94/bsbu3xaxvYs/s640/P1010646.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvbSNpFVI/AAAAAAAAA90/vr6XrIdEFS0/s640/P1010645.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvgCxwXqI/AAAAAAAAA-E/04w9kss5WTs/s640/P1010649.JPG


Lower link position when upper link contact crossmember.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvecPI-1I/AAAAAAAAA98/pUxXhTA86T8/s640/P1010647.JPG


Upper link tack'd on frame.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvixiSwMI/AAAAAAAAA-M/2oh27VyZXAc/s640/P1010651.JPG


Track bar looks like it will need to be bent a bit.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYfvfSTZyPI/AAAAAAAAA-A/slw1ZG4K3_E/s512/P1010648.JPG


Ride height

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYkr7BrGEaI/AAAAAAAAA-k/XyILeweXJvQ/s512/IMG_0539.jpg

New frame mounts

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqnmjiX34I/AAAAAAAAA_E/dDKuMkOTU1Y/s640/P1010653.JPG

Link clearance at frame at full uptravel

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqn3hNLI1I/AAAAAAAAA_g/NpsWqEJI-AM/s640/P1010661.JPG

Some stuff just gets in the way

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqn-sWy0iI/AAAAAAAAA_o/E-6rVbGl87g/s640/P1010663.JPG

Wheel position @ full uptravel (I think...can't remember when I took the photo).

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqoAR42nPI/AAAAAAAAA_s/wfLOyg6Rnx8/s640/P1010664.JPG


Coils & Jounce Shocks in place

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqnpRWTMXI/AAAAAAAAA_M/zNafazs_vQk/s512/P1010656.JPG


So close to being finished, and then things changed. I didn't like the fact that I wasn't getting the travel #s advertised on the front. UCA uniball would have to go through the fender (and LCA uniball through the rotor) to get those numbers.



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TY0c4YSlXpI/AAAAAAAABA0/dVLwgvycvQI/s640/P1010672.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TY0c5Hf9zJI/AAAAAAAABA4/Yi98vKCkatA/s640/P1010673.JPG



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TY0c3czugbI/AAAAAAAABAw/ZOXOfb92FMw/s640/P1010671.JPG


The advertised rear numbers weren't accurate either once taking a closer look at the spring. Definitely weren't getting as much use out of a 14" shock as I had hoped. So we are starting to tinker around with some other options. Since the axle is 4" wider than normal it freed up a bit of space at full uptravel.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TYqoESBK4LI/AAAAAAAAA_w/YuLo4pkPdME/s512/P1010665.JPG



Still a bit tight though at full articulation. Although I think some spacers should take care of that. But if I'm going to be 3.25" wide or more on each side in the rear, I'm going to have a bit of headache with law enforcement in Houston....already were checking how far out my wheels were with respect to the fenders the one time I got pulled over.

So fiberglass is in order. If I'm doing that in the rear I might as well toss them on in the front. And if the are on in the front I might as well shoot for a wider front setup to match the track width...plus I could go with another kit which actually is supposed to meet their advertised numbers. :D

Front locker/gears going in.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZeuPBd2dOI/AAAAAAAABCE/eQEPN3phSjw/s640/P1010687.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZeuQW03-YI/AAAAAAAABCI/ecrFmW72u-I/s640/P1010688.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZeuRQVaR4I/AAAAAAAABCM/RtZIIWHKWF4/s640/P1010689.JPG


Thought I had also snapped a few pictures of the rear end parts order that showed up Friday, but apparently my memory card is full and or didn't grab them. Basically we'll be notching the the frame and possibly coming up through the wheel wells if needed with a tower to run a 14" coilover with reservoir.

Rear interior and storage system removed in case the fender wells need to be modified a bit.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TY0c-YVNNDI/AAAAAAAABBI/1rbFa-FwcOQ/s640/P1010677.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZ0Tr4L6sTI/AAAAAAAABDs/6Nh3bMp4UFo/s512/P1010709.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZ0TvV_WOKI/AAAAAAAABD4/9Mmol_Bzuh0/s512/P1010712.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZ0Tws2M1UI/AAAAAAAABEA/JblPnWTM5co/s640/P1010713.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/TZ0TyKZ-ZcI/AAAAAAAABEE/i9yoFuZiyKw/s512/P1010714.JPG


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ001.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ002.jpg

:smokin:

Looks great, glad to see someone really going for it. It is very difficult to make the triangulation #'s work on an FJ given the frame width and shape and the body being a limmiting factor. I would be interested in seeing your #s in the calculator. Did you wiegh your wheels individually? Did you find your exact COG or dod you just use your center bell housing bolt? I'm not sure using wheel spacers is the right choice for getting the clearance you need. I think this will effect your calculations as you would have to increase the axle width. I have heard that back spacing on wheels will actually effect the #'s.

It apears that you have about 10" between upper and Lower Link CL at the axle. Is that what you started with? I think running your uppers to the frame instead of to a cross member could be thowing your 3's off because the difference between the frame connection points of uppers and lowers is minimal compared to the difference in thier lenghts. Well, not sure, I'm still studying the math involved in this and could be completely wrong.

The Rear shock towers are a cool idea and the fab work looks great. Keep us up to speed this is the sort of thing that need to be on here instead of what color your FJ is.

No, race scales weren't used to determine CG, so there's not a whole lot of use tossing the numbers out there since assumptions were made for the CG of my FJ from the get go.

The three link "kit" was from Metal Tech and I've seen the calculator numbers that they ran, but I'm not going to speak to their #'s since I don't know their accuracy (or how they determined their CG). What I did know was that I wanted the IC location further forward to reduce the AS #s that they were getting and based on what I got on the calculator (assuming both our CG estimates were close (which they may or may not be)). Since I'm planning on using this for high speed stuff and playing in the rocks we aimed to modify the design to hit ~50% AS and keep the RA below the assumed CG. There is still some modification to be done to the links themselves, but that will be addressed in due time.


You are close on the link seperation(~8-9", have to go back and check cause I don't have anything on this computer). I'm not really sure what you are saying in your statement though. There is only one upper since its a 3 link suspension and the length difference between the upper and lowers is 4". Modifying width or backspacing would change the numbers, but not much more than a few % on the AS perhaps (calculator #s were run with a 4" wider axle as is, so you'd add 2.5-3" to that).


I'm always open to ideas or suggestions, still learning this myself (surprisingly I didn't have any classes on suspension design for my ME degree, so this is all fairly new to me).


If I actually get access to some scales I'll post up the true calculator numbers (rather than those that are based on assumptions from the get go).

Looks great as usual, B, hopefully you will continue to keep us updated in other forums as well (ie check your thread).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ012.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ011.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ010.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ013.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ019.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ016.jpg

Very Nice!! :)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ022.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ020.jpg

Sorry, fuzzy cellphone pics on the next few

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/Ta-F_8ViNXI/AAAAAAAABIw/BOfeY1e2wWs/s640/IMG_0213.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/Ta-F74AVcsI/AAAAAAAABIs/vZEiExP8CZ8/s512/IMG_0212.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/Ta-F4bUJ-PI/AAAAAAAABIo/2ktlWAXaz7U/s512/IMG_0211.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W2w_GOseuf8/Ta-GDEyLutI/AAAAAAAABI0/AjkyY0tAxxo/s640/IMG_0214.JPG

Hard to tell, but is that bumpstop hitting the axle in these pics?

It hits cleanly in those photos. When articulated and loaded at some different angles it might not make as clean of contact. Likely end up welding on a pad for it to land on.

15" of total wheel travel.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ033.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ030.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ029.jpg

New front came in. Camburg setup is much nicer than the Total Chaos all around. Definitely no regrets going with Camburgs over TC's 3.5"kit. Right now it looks like we are getting about 13.375" of wheel travel. Have to figure out how we can eek out a bit more cause the shock still has travel left. Flipping the LCA spacer will buy a bit of travel. Uptravel could be gained by chopping the fender well and reframing. Waiting for a call back from Camburg.


For comparison purposes - upper uniball on both kits.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ039.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ028.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ027.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ032.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ036.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ034.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ025.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ031.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ026.jpg

just a tip... reinforce the lower control arm mounts

Thicker material and brace them across to one another, they will not stand up to much stock

Hmmm.....this rig looks familiar! Didn't know there was a thread on here for it.

The LCA mounts will be boxed, I'm just playing with the alignment of the lower arm before we make anything solid.

Just got the Trailer Products front fenders sitting in place, and threw one of my Krawlers on for fitment.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ044.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ045.jpg

Hmmm.....this rig looks familiar! Didn't know there was a thread on here for it.



I like to whore your craftmanship and fab skills out all over the web. :D

Oh man that is so sweet - my FJ is jealous. Very nice work. I'm interested to hear more about the front set up mods you are going to do.

35" Pitbulls on 17" Method wheels

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ052.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ054.jpg

Just sat it down with no adjustments on the springs. Remember that the heavy rear bumper is off, and the rear cargo area is empty, where there is usually a bunch of storage equipment and a fridge.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ052.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ058.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ057.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ055.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ059.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ061.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ064.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ061.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ065.jpg

im not too far away from your shop.id love to come by and see that beast when its through!how long till its done and where do you plan on wheeling it since there aint a whole lot of rocks around here?

Finish date depends on when all the last parts arrive and what solution Dave and others are able to come up with for the front axles. Hopefully this summer though.

BVORR, Gilmer, and Hidden Falls will probably be the first few stops. Don't think I'll be getting out of Texas this year due to other vacations I've got planned (may make a weekend trip to superlift if I'm lucky). However, I hope to make it back out to Moab next year again.

Here are some photos of the issue the CVs at full droop with the Camburg kit.

Axle shaft contacts the housing. At full bump the rollers are being pulled out of the housing. Looks like the OEM tripod inner can only handle between 12"-13" of travel on a 3.5" kit.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/5-by-5/IMAG0339.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/5-by-5/IMAG0337.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/5-by-5/IMAG0340.jpg



Hopefully be able to get some custom shafts with different inners and upgraded outers made over the next few weeks.

maybe some rcv performance halfshafts can be fit to your application?btw i went to the 4wheel parts expo this weekend and was suprised to see one of your rigs there!love the details like the rear mounted radiator plumbed through the tube chassis, and the spare drive shafts mounted underneath.what do yall plan to do with the exaust?

maybe some rcv performance halfshafts can be fit to your application?btw i went to the 4wheel parts expo this weekend and was suprised to see one of your rigs there!love the details like the rear mounted radiator plumbed through the tube chassis, and the spare drive shafts mounted underneath.what do yall plan to do with the exaust?

Thanks, the exhaust on the buggy will "Y" just out of the headers, then the single tube will snake down the top of the trans and out the side. The floors that were in it fit with the old Vortec 350 that had block hugger headers. Just gotta rebuild that one center floor section and it should all be good.

RCV shafts are soon to be on order for the FJ....

Got one side of the body boxed in around the new shock towers.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ076.jpg

Started reading this thread and thought man that shop looks familiar.

Nice work so far Dave

Brian, I saw that Dave is getting you the RCVs. Were they able to get the inners and outers upgraded per the request?

That is still on my radar.

They are coming up with a prototype that should be able to handle the travel for the 3.5" camburg kit. We'll be doing some development testing for them on my setup. Once we run through some traps, I'm guessing they'll be offering options for an OEM track width and +2" kit.

Took a few pictures while installing the Atlas adapter.

This bearing needs to be removed for the new Atlas spud shaft
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ081.jpg

Inside the trans tailhousing, bearing comes out this way
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ082.jpg

This is the old Inchworm coupler shaft that did not want to come out
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ083.jpg

stock tailshaft in transmission
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ079.jpg

Atlas spud shaft
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ080.jpg

stock tailhousing re-installed
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ084.jpg

Adapter plate mocked up
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ085.jpg

Subscribed, very good info for a project I've got upcoming.

Here we are getting the NW BlackBox and Atlas in a happy spot. Trying to acheive a flat belly, or as close as possible. You can see that the Atlas is pretty intrusive on the seat mount, but it shouldn't hold us back too much. After I rebuild the floor section, I will build a new tab to mount the front of the seat slider.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ094.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ095.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ096.jpg

Looks Familiar

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/framer2008/TCasecutOut.jpg

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/framer2008/TCase.jpg

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/framer2008/TCase003.jpg

Nice! I think I may pull this thing out and try one more rotation up to get it a little flatter, and bring the tailhousing down. But maybe not.

I'm sure you are already on top of it, but keep in mind exhaust routing and how we will tie in with the passenger side. I forgot to look at that when I was up there.

Wow, I have never seen so much done to a FJC. Keep it up man!

Damn, Dave... I thought you were joking when we were talking the other day about cutting the floor out. Looks great!

Atlas support mount

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ113.jpg

Nice Atlas support,
I have been thinking of something exactly like that. Really nice fab work.

Probably a worthwhile investment on your rig. Atlas4 is a huge moment arm on the transmission as it weighs over twice the stock FJ transfercase. Especially with that S/C I believe you are going to be running...going to cause a lot more drivetrain movement which is only going to exacerbate the moment arm issue.

Probably a worthwhile investment on your rig. Atlas4 is a huge moment arm on the transmission as it weighs over twice the stock FJ transfercase. Especially with that S/C I believe you are going to be running...going to cause a lot more drivetrain movement which is only going to exacerbate the moment arm issue.

Dangit, Brian, you have me worrying about this again. I guess I can take some comfort in that my two speed is not as long or heavy as you and Maddog's 4 speed.

Nice Atlas support,
I have been thinking of something exactly like that. Really nice fab work.

Thanks!

Got the Heretic Fab 4130 links installed today, with 1.25" heims at all ends.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ128.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ127.jpg

Looks Awsome !

Should go a bit faster now

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aBxjwC8x74s/Tnzug1ujRHI/AAAAAAAABdc/5jpxjWPzc68/s640/Brian%252520FJ%252520130.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aBxjwC8x74s/Tnzug1ujRHI/AAAAAAAABdc/5jpxjWPzc68/s640/Brian%252520FJ%252520130.jpg


Hopefully I'll get it on the dyno before year's end. X-runner folks are seeing around 360ft/lbs & 340hp or so with a similar setup on 93 octane. With e85 they are around 400ft/lbs of torque. Should be interesting to see what the FJC puts down to the wheels.

Should go a bit faster now

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aBxjwC8x74s/Tnzug1ujRHI/AAAAAAAABdc/5jpxjWPzc68/s640/Brian%252520FJ%252520130.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aBxjwC8x74s/Tnzug1ujRHI/AAAAAAAABdc/5jpxjWPzc68/s640/Brian%252520FJ%252520130.jpg


Hopefully I'll get it on the dyno before year's end. X-runner folks are seeing around 360ft/lbs & 340hp or so with a similar setup on 93 octane. With e85 they are around 400ft/lbs of torque. Should be interesting to see what the FJC puts down to the wheels.

That 340hp number is not to the wheels is it?

Yes, those numbers are to the wheels.

Have you fired it up, yet? Give you goosebumps?

Yes, those numbers are to the wheels.

Wow, I always thought those TRD and URD (340-400HP with cai, headers, y-pipes and EMS) numbers were crank. That is a lot of HP to the wheels.

Have you fired it up, yet? Give you goosebumps?

No, still needs coolant and I have to upload a new map. Map that was uploaded was for the TRD injectors which I replaced with 668cc's which should be able to handle close to 400hp.

No idea how much gas is in the tanks either (hopefully not much), but it was last filled with 87 which will need to be drained or driven for awhile w/o boost.


Wow, I always thought those TRD and URD (340-400HP with cai, headers, y-pipes and EMS) numbers were crank. That is a lot of HP to the wheels.

Yep, to the wheels. Hence my concern for the front r&p. Hopefully, I'll be able to manage the skinny pedal properly....either that or hopefully the failure point is still before it.

You driving this damn thing yet?

Axles only showed back up from being remachined last week. I'm sure Dave will toss up some updates in the coming weeks.

[QUOTE=Hornsfan;13404078]Wow, I always thought those TRD and URD (340-400HP with cai, headers, y-pipes and EMS) numbers were crank. That is a lot of HP to the wheels.[/QUOT

I think those #'s are crank if I'm wrong I would like to see the dyno graph.

Iv'e worked alot to increase HP and Torq and have not seen those #'s at my wheels maybe at the engine at 6000 +

I would be interested in seeing your #'s when Dynod. MAybe I'm doing something wrong.

You realize to measure crank HP you have to put your engine on an engine dyno? URD is not doing that, nor any of the folks posting dyno charts...they are putting the S/C on the vehicle and putting it on a vehicle dyno.

Making food now, but when I get time I'll copy dyno charts over here. If you feel like it search the web and you'll find the info I'm refering to. URDs website itself lists all the number i whp (not crank). Think they were around low 300's on their base kit and 380hp or so on their upgraded version.

Toytoa/TRD is the only company I know of that lists crank numbers.

URD's Kit on FJ

http://www.urdusa.com/images/URDFJMk3SCPower.jpg


Basically the same setup as mine, however I'll be running another 2 psi or so more boost depending on ambient conditions due to URD S/C pulley + NST overdrive pulleys. With the additional loses on the FJ...I'd be happy to be in this range on 93 octane. We shall see though what it turns out to be once I get it on the dyno a few months from now.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o224/34coupe/Dyno/img008.jpg

OK, I shouldnt have asked to see the graphs. I'm not really into #'s any way I just want performance. I have heard by experts in the field that these dynos are known to overstate up to 30%. At any rate I would be happy to race anyone with a 360HP FJ, Lets face it 360 at the Wheels is over 400 at the crank and doing that for very long with this engine will simply blow it apart.

OK, I shouldnt have asked to see the graphs. I'm not really into #'s any way I just want performance. I have heard by experts in the field that these dynos are known to overstate up to 30%. At any rate I would be happy to race anyone with a 360HP FJ, Lets face it 360 at the Wheels is over 400 at the crank and doing that for very long with this engine will simply blow it apart.

All chassis dyno's do is measure torque at the wheels (along with RPM) and everything else is back calculated from that. Search and there are plenty of other graphs out there from other dynos (including Mustangs which are known to run lower) and the numbers are not vastly different.

Who is telling you these engines are going to blow apart at 360hp? I fear you are getting wrong information. Folks have been putting down near 380-400ftlbs to the wheels on the 1gr for quite awhile...with the proper engine mangement, cooling, and tune they hold up just fine.

Just cant stand the idea that those #'s may be wrong. Check with Tim at TCR Performance Toyota who builds some of the best Toyota Race engines in the Nation and check with the engeneering dept at Toyota USA.

Just cant stand the idea that those #'s may be wrong. Check with Tim at TCR Performance Toyota who builds some of the best Toyota Race engines in the Nation and check with the engeneering dept at Toyota USA.

I have, with TRD :flipoff2:, they've put down over 400 on the 1gr before. Seeing that the x-runner folks have been running the 1gr s/c and putting down these number (measured on various dynos) for the better part of 5 years now without issue on properly setup vehicles...I'm quite comfortable with those numbers. We'll see how much more drivetrain loss there is on the FJ, but URD has shown that mid to high 300's is readily acheivable. There are a few turbo charged Tacomas putting down over 400 to the wheels.

Who knows tho...maybe all the various dynos are measuring way off and your right. Fully appreciate that none of them are going to give you the exact same reading and there is quite a bit of variability. However, with all the testing it does provide some good indication that the ranges I outlined are acheivable.

If you are upset your results are not coming close to that perhaps look into some alternate solutions. Just swap a s/c 5.7 out of the tundra...you've got your 500 at the crank right there.

Perhaps give APR a call as well. They might have some suggestions for uping the performance on your project. One of the guys there led a lot of the developments at TRD a few years back.

What size tires are guys using on the dyno? 360whp is outta control for a 4wd vehicle. I believe we're losing more like 40-50% through the transfercase and big tires. I know of a specific Ultra 4 racer that engine dynoed at 640 hp and barely broke 300 at the wheels. Not saying it ain't true, just saying that's a metric shit ton of hp.

Brian, I know you are always right :p

However, I pretty sure those 400hp #s were crank.

URD's Chart is on 33's and landed 350rwhp....not in 4wd. Don't know that they did a run on an awd dyno with it.

Hard to tell what other charts are on 4wd dynos. Only one that I know for sure was a guy a few years back that dyno'd with just the TRD S/C and CAI..no other supporting mods ran this:

Mustang Dyno
259hp and 273lbs/ft on 34s (Toyota SAE rating for the units at the flywheel is 304hp and 334lb/ft, so you can make some drivetrain loss assumptions if you'd like (between 15-20% loss)..not that they are going to be 100% accurate).


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mDsuEFevKOM/TphQKfSSjQI/AAAAAAAABd8/wprVWfmWat4/s512/TRD_Supercarger_dyno_results_pg1.jpg


That chart is on a little over 5 psi of boost. Running an additional 4-5 psi of boost (depending on environmental conditions), headers, exhaust, no cats, and proper engine management/cooling opens up quite a bit of room for growth. Will definitely see some additional losses tho with the crawlbox & atlas as Dave pointed out. I know MadDog was runing 42's or something at one point, which can account for some of the variance.


I could really care less at where the final dyno number ends up (rarely am I going to be at max HP since this is a DD and not a competition vehicle). Main purposes for the various curves was comparing the powerband between different S/C designs. While rotrex units tend to produce better numbers from the kits that are out there roots type tend to have a more valuable power band. Xrunners and tacomas have confirmed that at the track consistently.


The fact remains that folks have put down well over 350hp & lbs/ft on various vehicles with the 1gr and several over 400 on chassis dynos. My main point was that Mad Dogs comment on "360 to to the wheels/400 @ the crank and your engine will blow" is not true. Considering whatever errors you'd like in the dyno measurements several folks have been running in the neighborhood of 400 at the crank reliably for a number of years now.


I'll post up whatever it pulls on the dyno when we get around to doing some runs. Happy to eat my words if I am way out in left field.


I'll leave you with one last chart as this guys 1gr seems to be holding up pretty well. Dave - I actually think you've met the guy before. Lets just say he's gone quite a different directions since he apparently discussed doing a SAC on his 6" lifted Tacoma....

http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq339/Torspd2/Front%20mount%20turbo%20build/IMAG1086.jpg

Brian, I know you are always right :p

However, I pretty sure those 400hp #s were crank.


Ryan - the only time you see crank HP numbers advertised are from the factory or from engine builders that run them on an ENGINE DYNO to get accurate crank/flywheel numbers.

Folks who take their FJ (or whatever vehicle you'd like to use) and run it on a CHASSIS DYNO (such as all the curves I posted) are reading their torque at the wheels and calculated wheel hp from that. As Mad Dog highlighted there is variaence in the various chassis dyno's out there and even on consecutive runs your numbers can change a bit. What they do not do is go back and advertise crank #s based on chassis dynos. There is too much variance and uncertainty in trying to calculate drivetrain loss. Just like folks don't use crank hp to calculate their wheel hp because accounting for drivetrain loss is difficult at best.

To know what you are putting to the wheels. Chassis dyno is going to be your best bet (all the curves I've posted). To know your exact engine power (crank) - engine dyno is going to be your best bet (have not posted a single engine dyno curve).



As I said in my previous post, I'm happy to eat my words if my mid to high 300 hp information for the 1gr on the xrunner and FJ is way off. However, feel free to call URD, APR, or any other folks which have modified the 1gr extensively and you'll see their advertisements are in wheel horsepower (URD is not pulling the engines from the vehicle to get crank numbers and they are not back calculating crank from wheelhorsepower and advertising crank).

Dont get me wrong, I am very happy with the #'s that MAd Dog is putting down and I think she is performing well enough to compete at KOH. I have nothing but good things to say about the TRD SC. TRD Parts 4 U is one of my sponsors for next season and they have made sure that I am getting the Maximum benefit from the SC, and let me tell you she litterally Rocks.
The Drive train does have alot to do with the readings at the wheels. I am running a T 400 Tranny now and it does not have an overdrive that also makes a difference along with the Atlas, the R&P and tire size. Mad Dog is being built to race in Ultra 4 which requires finding the best of both worlds crawling(if you want to call it that) and going fast in the desert so some sacrafices have to be made.
I am happy for all of those who are running 340 400 WHP in thier FJ I hope that you take every opportunity to enjoy it on and off road.

Hip Hhip Hurray for all BAd Ass FJS

Look forward to seeing your rig at KOH this year and how she does. No doubt you've put a lot of time, effort, and money into it. Is there going to be a magazine photo shoot, promotion, or something showing the new setup?

Just curious on the engine, did you guys bore out and resleeve the block at all? I know a couple folks are working on a 4.3L 1GR, but wasn't sure if you guys did anything like that.

Look forward to seeing your rig at KOH this year and how she does. No doubt you've put a lot of time, effort, and money into it. Is there going to be a magazine photo shoot, promotion, or something showing the new setup?

Just curious on the engine, did you guys bore out and resleeve the block at all? I know a couple folks are working on a 4.3L 1GR, but wasn't sure if you guys did anything like that.

There will be a press release mid Nov. And I will hopefully doing a race build thread.

No Boreing, we researched this and the gains were minimal or at least not worth the effort. When it comes to that I think it will be LS time. 2013 season unless we blow up before then.

No replacement for displacement, but I can't imagine there'd be enough gain possible boring, but what do I know.

What are the long term ramifications of SC'ing, in general?
Is it a constant source of issues down the driveline, even if using the DIY bolt on?

You'll see some gains and be able to up the boost a bit more with upgraded internals to accompany the sleeved block. Lot of lotus folks are doing similar setups with the 2gr. The one 1gr bored and sleeved block I know was aiming for around 550hp to the wheels and only some of the internals apparently would need to be upgraded. Not sure what type of forced induction or how much boost they are planning to run. Really all a tradeoff between alternative options LS, 5.7L Tundra, etc if you really want that much more to the wheels.

Long term ramifications mean more wear and tear on your entire driveline and brakes if you are on the skinny pedal all the time. If not, its not going to be any different...other than another item to service and a few more parts to maintain.

What are the long term ramifications of SC'ing, in general?
Is it a constant source of issues down the driveline, even if using the DIY bolt on?[/QUOTE]

Who cares about long term ,I want to go fast now and think about that later!
Ha Ha, we will see what happens.

Updates!!

We got the half shafts back from RCV, with the 1" longer splines like we asked. I wanted to get the long splines so I could find the "happy spot" where the inner race likes to ride, then cut new snap ring grooves, and chop the remaining shaft off. I also played with working over some of the inner CV parts to gain more angle. I was able to pull a clean, smooth 13.5" travel, got greedy and wanted the full 14" like advertised, and screwed the cage up. Now the cage just wants to turn and lets the balls fall out. So, we decided that we're going to settle with the 13.5", and have it strapped at 13" so we're not pushing the CVs too hard.

Also, I started clearancing the fenderwell. Started with just taking an inch out all the way around on top, and about two inches in toward the engine. Now that it clears at full steering lock, I have about 3" up and 6" in at the front of the fenderwell, and was able to beat the snot out of the firewall to make the clearance needed there.

Long splines
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ132.jpg

Dana 60 outer bell for the FJ
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ134.jpg

930 inner joints, getting a little love so they can handle more travel
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ135.jpg

Finding the happy spot
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ137.jpg

more finding happy spot, tried to tack the race in place, but it has to have a little float in it, say 1/4"
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ138.jpg

Uncut fender well
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ144.jpg

First cut
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ145.jpg

Wishful thinking
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ146.jpg

How it looks now. I'll end up cutting it all out and just shaping a new piece of sheetmetal instead of the boogered up strips.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ151.jpg

Rear of fender well
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ149.jpg

Damn Dave, I just left an hour and a half ago and you already did all that work on the fenders?

Got the passenger side bypass hoop mocked up today

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ152.jpg

Passenger side suspension finished, finally! :clap: Now to try to make the other side match....

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ155.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ156.jpg

Looking Good Dave!

Sorry for the crappy pics, but its the same color outside today as the FJ is.

Trimming the fender wells out. This is full bump, full steering lock, and the wheel still spins.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/BrianFJ160.jpg

Dropped it all down to put some weight on it. Apparently there is a bunch of frame flex, where I have the shocks bumped there is no tire rubbing, and when I set the FJ down the tires wrecked shop on the inner fender wells where I had cut. So, this picture is where the front will be bumped with an actual rubber bumpstop.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/BrianFJ163.jpg

Again, bad pic, but you can get an idea as to the height difference in full bump between the front and rear. The rear pulls more travel, but the front bumps higher.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/BrianFJ165.jpg

Removed the rockers and put some proper 35" MT/R's on. Not quite as large of sidebiters so they'll allow for the full 14" of travel now and not destroy the wheel well at bump & lock. Pitbulls would have had to been bumped an inch or so lower.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TwO2VS_rHRI/TtlRI2g52PI/AAAAAAAABl0/dXg-R4956S8/s512/IMG_0003.JPG

Full bump

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-To9YiPxq2tE/TtlRKh5kV4I/AAAAAAAABl4/QnfVQ3WE5s4/s640/IMG_0004.JPG


Passenger side fender well mocked up.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GEssNifg1Cg/Tt6sS1s8k-I/AAAAAAAABl8/pAdXdErJZTY/s512/Fender%252520well.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e50l2Jrh5eg/Tt_6XJt84kI/AAAAAAAABmQ/E3wfGhhN5Ac/s512/fender2.JPG


Driverside

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D-X8sufnA1Y/TuFFBzKvfbI/AAAAAAAABmU/QNvhatCozb0/s640/photo.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lbanr8IiaXo/TuKInPUVT0I/AAAAAAAABmk/FMNb4kbLVEQ/s640/P1010926.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IW1PVWo6nNk/TuKIorZAggI/AAAAAAAABms/JD2gN5UJmP0/s512/P1010928.JPG


Passenger side bypass reservoir mount

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7mtxeMoo6Bs/TuKIpJlSfXI/AAAAAAAABnI/XXhSR0_lRmY/s640/P1010929.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bGc_sF2elHE/TuKIp2lrNoI/AAAAAAAABm0/AhyBhZKa-aU/s512/P1010930.JPG

Great work, DAVE!

Test fit of the Sparco Pro2000 seats

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-de4qKow8CMk/TuKIqTd47oI/AAAAAAAABm4/NqexUm24-xA/s512/P1010931.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GvYPDTLdu70/TuKIr_3o4AI/AAAAAAAABnA/0HopVoO33_M/s512/P1010933.JPG

Great work, DAVE!

He's not too shabby. I left after getting the seat in and he was working (and cussing) away on the driver side reservoir mount. Unfortunately, Toyota put a whole lot of shit there compared to the passenger side. I'm sure he'll manage to make it as clean looking as the passenger side tho. If all else fails I'm sure that fuse box and wiring really serve no purpose right? :D

Looks great! Nice work

Like magic he did make it all fit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AtFsZxiSVDs/TuaD1LjM1dI/AAAAAAAABnM/bt2BboE7hZA/s512/Engine%252520bay.JPG



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z3rIbvtadqg/TuaIQzKFw1I/AAAAAAAABnU/1FrQTMR-BSI/s640/Wide%252520body.jpg

Alex has a set of Icon (no logo'd) resi holders I sent him, I don't think Dave used.
I doubt he has need for, nor do I. They're the same, for all intents and purposes, as what you have, structurally speaking.

Offering up on both our behalfs, should you desire.

I hate logos, not sure about your preference.

awesome. lets see some action shots when its done.

Cool build, but what can you use it for? Alot of potential body damage for the trail. Seems like a big money pit for sure, try not to roll it..

Looking good.

Cool build, but what can you use it for? Alot of potential body damage for the trail. Seems like a big money pit for sure, try not to roll it..

Looking good.

Seriously? Its obviously going to be used to pick up chicks :smokin:. There are also a few curbs in the neighborhood which have been mocking me as well...I think it will be able to handle them now. :shaking:


Not building a competition vehicle here. It'll be a part time daily driver thats suited enough for most of the trails in the area and will be a blast to drive in the go fast stuff. If you are worried about body damage the fenders can always be removed. No plans to fit down Jeep or ATV trails and if thats your objective a vehicle as bloated as the FJC from the getgo isn't for you.

Not building a competition vehicle here. It'll be a part time daily driver thats suited enough for most of the trails in the area and will be a blast to drive in the go fast stuff. If you are worried about body damage the fenders can always be removed. No plans to fit down Jeep or ATV trails and if thats your objective a vehicle as bloated as the FJC from the getgo isn't for you.[/QUOTE]

Well...
I think it is great to build something suited for the trails that you want to do and I think this thing will kick ass in the open desert which to some is more fun than crawling around in the rocks.

Money Pit? Let me tell you.. but people dump thier money into all sorts of things and I'm sure they wont even come close to the pleasure that you and I will get from Driving our FJ's

I have to disagree about an FJ not being for someone who wants to go down
Jeep trails or drive in the rocks , of coarse cosmetics becomes far less important.

Offroaders in general have a way of becoming attached to a particular vehicle and sometimes end up spending alot more to modify that vehicle than
they would have if they started over with something else. That vehicle becomes an extension of who you are and a means of self expression.

Well...
I think it is great to build something suited for the trails that you want to do and I think this thing will kick ass in the open desert which to some is more fun than crawling around in the rocks.

Money Pit? Let me tell you.. but people dump thier money into all sorts of things and I'm sure they wont even come close to the pleasure that you and I will get from Driving our FJ's

I have to disagree about an FJ not being for someone who wants to go down
Jeep trails or drive in the rocks , of coarse cosmetics becomes far less important.

Offroaders in general have a way of becoming attached to a particular vehicle and sometimes end up spending alot more to modify that vehicle than
they would have if they started over with something else. That vehicle becomes an extension of who you are and a means of self expression.

I concur. I think FJLED built an awesome vehicle; built for purposes beyond JUST rock crawling or JUST pre-running and he does not have to tow it across the earth to enjoy it.

Also, it is a hobby. If I did not spend money on my FJC, I would find something else to spend it on for enjoyment. I am sure it is the same case with FJLED.

I have to disagree about an FJ not being for someone who wants to go down
Jeep trails or drive in the rocks , of coarse cosmetics becomes far less important.


Sorry - should have clarified that by "jeep trails" I was insinuating trails which are too narrow for an FJC to go down with w/o body damage, since that seemed to be 2hi2c's concern.

Even the JK is a fairly wide vehicle...putting the FJC next to it makes JK look oh so slender. If body damage isn't of concern than width doesn't really make a massive difference other than being more difficult to push through narrower trails. Don't think I said anything about rocks not being in play?

I look at this build like an Ultra4 car, some would say cursed from the beginning, some would say their ideal rig. It's not going to rockcrawl, trail ride, or haul ass in the desert better than a rig designed to excel at any one of those, but it will do all of them very well. I think it'll be fun as hell to drive!

Apologize in advance for the poor photos. Iphone + lighting resulted in poor quality.

Motor mounts are now gusseted

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mloo2C_ESn0/Tu_Xvc0A3aI/AAAAAAAABng/6kesghe3Uzg/s512/IMG_0013.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jVwtk0lr_nQ/Tu_XwHAEhJI/AAAAAAAABnk/WmJP_vB0O1c/s512/IMG_0014.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a-dIVLMRu0U/Tu_Xx_-qLdI/AAAAAAAABns/dBzIJLbOxcI/s512/IMG_0016.JPG


Long tube headers and my attempt to show the need for an O2 sensor wiring extension (wiring that is closest to you in the picture...upper one is a WBO2)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--m8hcs8nvm0/Tu_X2c8smvI/AAAAAAAABn4/lFRf6KsgdN4/s512/IMG_0019.JPG

Can see the need for the extension in this photo below. One end of the connector is attached to the top of the tranny/back of engine and you can see the yota O2 sensor at the bottom left of the picture.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t1emgkfjnBI/Tu_X3yOAANI/AAAAAAAABoA/JB0qUB55Bvg/s512/IMG_0021.JPG

Today was miscellaneous wiring so that you can turn the passenger side airbag on when you have a passenger in the seat (OEM seat has sensors located in it). May end up removing the airbags down the line, but for now I'm planning to wire everything so its operational (or at least isn't causing the ECU to throw fits).

On the left (black box) is the Occupant Classification ECU. Wiring that comes off of it hooks up to harness under the seat and passengers seat belt. Wiring on the far right is what comes off the other bung on the OCS and runs to each of the 4 sensors on the passenger side seat. Wiring in the center replaces all the wiring on the right with a switch that allows you to manually turn on and off the passenger airbag. (sorry for the quality - iphone camera wasn't working so well)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DGq4TqZJ0VA/TvEgGRWzbfI/AAAAAAAABoo/9KbQrD6rBWk/s640/IMG_0026.JPG

You also need to cut the yellow wiring under the seat which is for the OEM seat side airbags. Since the sparco's don't have any side airbags you just need to wire in ~3ohm resistor to complete the circuit and hook it back up to the harness on the floor. The resistors allow the ECU to believe the airbags are still there. Sorry didn't grab any photos of this


Driverside seat installed

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2rbv1GkQOac/TvEgICtf6xI/AAAAAAAABoU/M1J6igkxLu8/s640/IMG_0028.JPG

Motor mounts are now gusseted

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mloo2C_ESn0/Tu_Xvc0A3aI/AAAAAAAABng/6kesghe3Uzg/s512/IMG_0013.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jVwtk0lr_nQ/Tu_XwHAEhJI/AAAAAAAABnk/WmJP_vB0O1c/s512/IMG_0014.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a-dIVLMRu0U/Tu_Xx_-qLdI/AAAAAAAABns/dBzIJLbOxcI/s512/IMG_0016.JPG



Were those gussets a kit offered by someone or did you make them up yourself?

DMZ Fab provided the motor mount gussets. Not sure if they are doing production runs of the FJC gussets yet, as Tim mocked these up off an FJ that we was repairing motor mounts on and making gussets for. I do believe they have Taco gussets available. There apparently is some variation in the frame/mounts between the FJC and Taco from what he said. Give Tim @ DMZ a call and I'm sure he'll be more than happy to get you setup with what you need.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P5cHXHsNLxw/TthJwkfl6yI/AAAAAAAABlg/SfK2O-wznPo/s720/DSC_0687.JPG

Thanks.

Nice build, def. need to get a set of those motor mount gussets too!

If you don't mind me asking,

Where'd you get the adapter (mini-stub) for to run the 930 CV joint on the inner CV axle?

Nice build, def. need to get a set of those motor mount gussets too!

If you don't mind me asking,

Where'd you get the adapter (mini-stub) for to run the 930 CV joint on the inner CV axle?

They came from RCV with the shafts.

They came from RCV with the shafts.

Interesting, allowed for 0.5" more travel if I read the above right?

Interesting, allowed for 0.5" more travel if I read the above right?

We're getting the full 14" travel with the new inner fender wells. I think the stock CVs had 12 or 13".

Nice build, def. need to get a set of those motor mount gussets too!

If you don't mind me asking,

Where'd you get the adapter (mini-stub) for to run the 930 CV joint on the inner CV axle?

I've got an extra set of the RCV "mini-stubs" for a 930 I wouldn't mind selling...just FYI.

Nice build!

I've got an extra set of the RCV "mini-stubs" for a 930 I wouldn't mind selling...just FYI.

Nice build!

Might have to inquire about those after the new year!

Would have to get a new axle shaft made with the proper end for 930 joints (assuming the splines on the shaft are different).

Does the outter joint allow for the full range of motion or is it still restricting?!

Want to say they are 35 spline at both ends of the shaft, but I could be wrong. Know they are different than the OEM shafts spline count. Dave probably knows off the top of his head.

The outter was never never a limiting factor to my knowledge. Inner binding on the shaft at full droop and the rollers pulling out of the cup at bump on the OEM joints were the limiting issues.

Want to say they are 35 spline at both ends of the shaft, but I could be wrong. Know they are different than the OEM shafts spline count. Dave probably knows off the top of his head.

The outter was never never a limiting factor to my knowledge. Inner binding on the shaft at full droop and the rollers pulling out of the cup at bump on the OEM joints were the limiting issues.

Okay, I'm only running a 2" wider kit (All-Pro, but similar to the TC kit you had previously) they advertise 12" of travel, but I really think its limited to about 11"-11.5" and I feel the inner CV joint is the limiting the travel. I'll have to contact RCV and see what they say about it.

If you want to see if its really an issue you can pull your springs and the boot on the inner and cycle the suspension to see what exactly is going on.

The advertised travel numbers just seems to be a dick swinging contest between the various mfgs.

If you want to see if its really an issue you can pull your springs and the boot on the inner and cycle the suspension to see what exactly is going on.

The advertised travel numbers just seems to be a dick swinging contest between the various mfgs.

Yeah, most likely going to do that next time I have the truck in the shop, you weren't running the RCV's with TC 2"+ kit, but were your approx. travel numbers?

You noticed that too eh!

@~10.5" of travel the UCA uniball bolt would hit the inner metal fender well and the LCA bolt would want to go through the rotor. Bumped and strapped I think we were looking at ~10" of travel.

Allpro UCA runs a recessed uniball bolt which should buy a bit more uptravel. Never looked at the LCA close enough to see whats going on there.

Have I seen this rig in the Bay Area? (CA)

Have I seen this rig in the Bay Area? (CA)

No, not if you are refering to my FJC...hasn't been west of AZ and resides in Houston. I don't know that Cali will let me in with it as I lost the CARB sticker for the supercharger :laughing:.


How's your build coming along Bebe? I haven't check this week, but its been awhile since I saw any updates. Definitely a great inspriation for the IFS route to say the least.

A little tweaking - sway bar mounts/angle, got a Ron Davis Radiator made for it...huge improvement.

Other than that I have over 8000 miles on it and no issues :-) The Ruffstuff heims seem to be holding up surprisingly well!

I saw an FJ very similar in Cupertino at the IL4 Parking lot a few months ago. Similar bumper, silver, with the total chaos kit, similar wheels and tires.

This is an awesome build...congrats! I ended up with the same amount of travel, makes a huge difference on the trail :D

Checking out your build thread right now, Bebe - nice writeup!! I'm trying to come up with some sort of longer-term plan for my FJC and this helps quite a bit, even if it's a Hummer. :p

Dave's knocking out the exhaust.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qVaa65lE21w/TwXjP1B0uMI/AAAAAAAADbM/h0PY2RsBxFE/s512/photo.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0AJKQZMubbU/TwXjUZENC2I/AAAAAAAADbk/6qSTb4o3dh0/s640/photo2.JPG

Nice work!

Been a while since I've updated on here.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ySRHXDBUtjQ/TwtqZBIBhdI/AAAAAAAADcA/CJb9jZdxUA0/s640/P1010942.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xmdUyFFVfEc/TwtqW8ZGyLI/AAAAAAAADb0/g4phA0CdNoc/s640/P1010939.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cKaZgVt034E/TwtqczLdgbI/AAAAAAAADcY/iWv43maUb6A/s640/P1010948.JPG


Took it for a spin about a month ago. Didn't get to do much testing as the supercharger is being reworked now.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7LUrxLCHDlo/TxtOHE0pNcI/AAAAAAAADe4/EU5zpq8PFms/s640/FJ%252520Drives.jpg


Rear fenders are on

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nF_iVyeZOfg/TxtPuhubfxI/AAAAAAAADfI/IW--37vlUd4/s512/IMG_0045.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5Oki2-SSpV0/TxtPuZ13RcI/AAAAAAAADfA/rk7ADdmVdL0/s512/IMG_0044.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o4e_nZJUjiI/T0ekfIp1zII/AAAAAAAADrk/NZbKXTH38l8/s640/photo.JPG


Dave fabing up one clean center console

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s0lcQDo9un0/Tz0ue3P766I/AAAAAAAADo8/eJp1OyorbaU/s720/photo.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wBSd7AOmKiI/Tz7P_3P-zWI/AAAAAAAADqI/hiJFV14bvMM/s640/Console%25203.JPG

this thing is bitchin' :smokin:

Center console should be marketed, as well the shifter linkages. The cleanest install I've seen.

What's the plan on the lower rear fenders?

Center console should be marketed, as well the shifter linkages. The cleanest install I've seen.

What's the plan on the lower rear fenders?


Center console might be offered in composite form down the line. Shifters are available from NWF.

Tenative plan for the front and rear fiberglass is to contour them to eliminate the need for mud flaps. Probably will depend on how tight things are time wise tho with events I plan to attend in April and May.

I am loving that console. If I keep my FJ I may have to look into it.

I am loving that console. If I keep my FJ I may have to look into it.

No doubt. The cleanest I've seen.

Excuse my ignorance, but the shifters sit directly on top the Atlas?

I guess I haven't paid close enough attention to Hornsfan's, but I thought I remembered them being 3-4" aft of the original TC shifter, therefore the reason for the previous linkage statement.

I can't search shit, either. The facade of anonymity the the creative user name provides isn't fairing well with the latest Tapatalk update.

No doubt. The cleanest I've seen.

Excuse my ignorance, but the shifters sit directly on top the Atlas?

I guess I haven't paid close enough attention to Hornsfan's, but I thought I remembered them being 3-4" aft of the original TC shifter, therefore the reason for the previous linkage statement.

I can't search shit, either. The facade of anonymity the the creative user name provides isn't fairing well with the latest Tapatalk update.

The guys I know with 4 speed Atlas cases are running triple sticks in the stock case shifter opening. They are running cable shifters not linkage.

I'm pretty sure those are cable shifters. Dave and I are looking into doing the molds for a composite version of the console.

No doubt. The cleanest I've seen.

Excuse my ignorance, but the shifters sit directly on top the Atlas?

I guess I haven't paid close enough attention to Hornsfan's, but I thought I remembered them being 3-4" aft of the original TC shifter, therefore the reason for the previous linkage statement.

I can't search shit, either. The facade of anonymity the the creative user name provides isn't fairing well with the latest Tapatalk update.


No, they are cable shifters as others mentioned. They don't sit directly on top of the atlas. Atlas is a bit further back and the crawlbox is actually right below there.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wBSd7AOmKiI/Tz7P_3P-zWI/AAAAAAAADqI/hiJFV14bvMM/s640/Console%25203.JPG

That might get hot. The console gets hot with the atlas. It's a great heater in the cold. Windows closed the heat blows out the rear and it's non issue.

Dave's been knocking out the last few items. Sorry my iphone pics aren't the highest quality.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0wK-tl7Z_B4/T1qX2Wq1vQI/AAAAAAAADvY/ve6OQcnwiQw/s640/IMG_0115.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3XclX5qhMCg/T1qXy9c56_I/AAAAAAAADuo/vDLp4O6NP_4/s640/IMG_0118.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9MPdEHRa-JI/T1qX4jEFMzI/AAAAAAAADvw/53eAV5WN1-s/s640/Floor.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j0celKwY7AI/T1qX1-gbjCI/AAAAAAAADvQ/6zdCXojRoOw/s640/IMG_0114.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3-QW00kF1FM/T15SIgzS0_I/AAAAAAAADx4/gLvGQFL7m1Y/s640/swaybar.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KRSfyuxcm-Y/T2CndVDZvKI/AAAAAAAADyM/985Zmq7B2kw/s576/swaybar2.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BAw5cIuXaP4/T2EeBwQ3-7I/AAAAAAAADyg/_gH7LStDkWQ/s576/Swaybar3.JPG

Can you just finish this thing so we can see you wheel it already?! :flipoff2:

seriously cant wait to see it done.

Can you just finish this thing so we can see you wheel it already?! :flipoff2:

seriously cant wait to see it done.

No kidding! I had to laugh when someone in the blue room asked how it rode with the new anti-rock. :laughing:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wBSd7AOmKiI/Tz7P_3P-zWI/AAAAAAAADqI/hiJFV14bvMM/s640/Console%25203.JPG

That might get hot. The console gets hot with the atlas. It's a great heater in the cold. Windows closed the heat blows out the rear and it's non issue.

I insulated the floor under the console, so it shouldn't be an issue.

It does get hot. I was wondering if it was my Atlas or my transmission.

It does get hot. I was wondering if it was my Atlas or my transmission.
The Atlas does tend to get hot on the Hiway, sometimes if the shifters are not adjusted right they will tend to get alittle hotter

Dave's making it all come back together


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9OxXy-4M5X0/T2i_8A-VfqI/AAAAAAAADzg/ZcnPM8w0lGQ/s640/Center%2520Console%2520Finished.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5d2rGN2c3lw/T2i_8BKf6KI/AAAAAAAADzk/e5Y-Uwpzkek/s640/Seats%2520finished.jpg

Been awhile since I've updated this thread. Dave's been wrapping up the build over the past couple weeks.

New remote fill locaiton

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TEW1GiRGHC4/T3cuXcMApAI/AAAAAAAAD2k/SOddpY5Kh8k/s640/Fill%2520tube.JPG

Exhaust back from coating

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oTuWWN1mlRo/T4NZhZnAmfI/AAAAAAAAD3U/J2jWsT42Im8/s640/Polydyn%2520exhaust.jpg

Gauges still need to be wired
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L_ns6_Q-Ecs/T3JvCTGcTgI/AAAAAAAAD1E/ZqhOVmj0QmY/s640/Autometer%2520setup.JPG

Ready for some testing at jambo this weekend.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pngrvGziLRM/T4YWqztrFHI/AAAAAAAAD3w/BamOb9x89YE/s640/IMG_0182.jpg

Can't wait to see pics of this on the trail!

It's probably posted somewhere in here or your other build threads, but did you maintain your catalytic converters with the new exhaust? I was thinking about doing the URD Y-pipe until I saw that the cats had to be removed for it. Would like to find a way to get my exhaust up further and out of the way.

Originally they were removed and the Y pipe was straight through as shown below (no cats on the long tube headers either).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0AJKQZMubbU/TwXjUZENC2I/AAAAAAAADbk/6qSTb4o3dh0/s640/photo2.JPG

Sounded down right obnoxious and raspy as hell. Even with changing the muffler up and resonator several times, the best solution to make it sound slightly less crapy was to install some magnaflow cats (can be seen on either side of the transmission)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oTuWWN1mlRo/T4NZhZnAmfI/AAAAAAAAD3U/J2jWsT42Im8/s640/Polydyn%2520exhaust.jpg

Thanks. Thought that was what I was looking at, but wasn't sure. :)

Few shots from the first day of testing


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PSvKMDqvJyk/T5VKhY-pcoI/AAAAAAAAD6A/M-7RO5X9oOc/s694/Drooping.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4kWi4jbAfxA/T5lXuISsQtI/AAAAAAAAD7o/R8TTxr5F2FA/s720/Rockgarden1.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wOKtlX_senw/T5lXuPxzG9I/AAAAAAAAD7k/cckRGwQw41E/s640/Rockgarden2.JPG

Here ya go, Brian. A couple of videos I shot.

FJ Cruiser jump @ Barnwell - Apr 2012 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myL0ksS7MMA)

Toying around w/ the FJ - BMRA 4/12 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXLf-4oxF4)

Thanks Jason!

Couple more shots that Jason took and some from the video

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CF6rL8R_6vQ/T6MR5R9lZ_I/AAAAAAAAD9o/6eiqnThbV0E/s512/20120420_114053.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pLmJPoAV9is/T6MR7Oym-9I/AAAAAAAAD94/oFoAL66rqXM/s512/20120420_114142.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dz9tXhuqtPw/T5l-M1AW0EI/AAAAAAAAD8M/9QjcdcjY-Xo/s640/Jamboree%2520photos.jpg