I posted that I am looking to buy this 88 4 runner and I went over again today to drive it and learned more. I keep thinking the knocking is not a rod. I searched the archives and read all related posts. Sounds like the noise could be the broken tensioner sound??? Whatever that sounds like. This truck has a new head, compression of 160 lb. across all cylinders 140K New radiator , timing chain ( not oem) by the way. Timing chain cover leaks and he says they used the aftermarket gasket and does not fit well.

I know I am asking the impossible here but what does the bad chain/tensioner problem that is so common sound like? At idle I don't hear it . I pulled each plug wire individually and the sound decreased quite abit.
Anybody have some input here?

first post.. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=97444

Try This (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69605)

Thanks for posting that link. I've been gettting a similar "rattling type" noise when I let off the throttle at around 2500-3000 RPM's. I thought it might be the timing chain, but it stops making the noise as soon as the truck warms up. Is this common? Would it still be bad for the engine if I just let it warm up before I drive it, or does that not make a difference? I kinda assume if you can't hear the noise, then no damage is being done.

Thanks,

Justin

Any ideas, guys?

sounds like the chain. take off the oil cap while its idling. see if its right in front @ the chain

Originally posted by 2stroke
take off the oil cap while its idling. see if its right in front @ the chain

Forgive me for being a dumbass, but I don't understand what you mean.:confused: Most people say they can hear it at idle, but I can only hear it briefly when I let off the gas or step back on it. The odd thing is that it only happens when the engine is cold. Once it's warmed-up I never hear it.

Thanks,

Justin

hoppfull tim@doa will jump in , but i think u have 1 of the guides broke in there. have u pulled off ur valve cover and looked down?

Jrussell....

I am not an expert but from what I have read yours is classic timing chain tensioner guide....replace and and don't look back.
Do a Google search..

22re timing chain tensioner

tons of posts with your symptoms and solution..

saw this this morning on e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873510715&sspagename=ADME:B:SS:US:1


Pretty sure that is my problem too except the PO did the chain under 10K ago so I'm thinking it might be worse, a rod maybe.

bennett

Pull the valve cover off and physically mess with the timing chain. Mine moves all over the place.....Super loose. (I dont like anything too loose) My guides are toast. It still runs but Ive parked it until I get mine replaced. $50 parts and a hassle to replace. Or I got a quote for $1200 to do it. Ill do it myself when I get time. I was told head and oil pan should be removed, but I was also told you can do it without removing head or pan.

Don't remove the head, but take off the pan for sure. chunks of broken chain guide are in there as well as all kinds of crap that falls in while you are replacing timing set. Old gasket material, antifreeze, dirt... etc. Make sure to buy the timing set with the metal backed guides.

Thanks for the advice, guys. The PO of my truck rebuilt the engine about 3,000 miles before I bought it. Would it be any better for the motor if I let it warm-up before I drive it (No noise when it's warm). Is this something I should fix right away?

Thanks again,

Justin

Jrussell...
Your in the same siutation as me... the PO put a new timing chain in and it's hard to realize the chain would be the problem this soon.

1. Do plastic timing Chain guides go/break that fast? say 5K?

2. Do chains stretch tat soon?

Normally, when you have a chain/giude issue, its at idle and hot, due to the lower oil pressure since the tensioner is ran off oil pressure. Another way to tell, when you have a chain/guide problem, when hot when you start it, the noise will be pretty load till it gets oil pressure, like what was said before, best way is to remove the valve cover, that will tell you that story..

Another issue, the toy motors are a floating pin in the piston, with a brass type material in the rod, if there is too much tolerance there, that can be an issue. Another issue, poor machine work, and you are getting piston slap(common to hear when cold till the piston expands).