Anything special about rebuilding a BW1356 that I should know about? Won't stay in gear, keeps popping out. Was thinking bearings and a oil pump plus anything obvious when I open it up... probably a new chain. I've never had one apart before, anything special or must be done when it's apart?

this may or may not help, but my NP242 wouldnt stay enguaged due to a broken snap ring which held the main shaft into place...

Originally posted by 1988YJ
Anything special about rebuilding a BW1356 that I should know about? Won't stay in gear, keeps popping out. Was thinking bearings and a oil pump plus anything obvious when I open it up... probably a new chain. I've never had one apart before, anything special or must be done when it's apart?

A common problem on high-mileage 1356's is that the pump starts to spin in the housing. Nothing is necessarily wrong w/the pump, it's just not held in place like it should be. Repairing involves building up the "splines" that the pump slides into using a welder.... altho I think welding magnesium is a bit tricky?

Thanks for the tip. I'll pay special attention to that when I take it apart. It sounds like if it hasn't spun the pump I should be able to rebuild it myself.

BW's are expensive to rebuild. If you can find a NP208, for cheap, it's a direct bolt in.

I put a oil pump in one . It lasted about 10,000 miles . I suppose he is right or it would have lasted longer . Save your money and get a 205 . It is allmost a direct bolt in. Aside from filling a hole and cutting a hole for the shifter . Thats what happend to my 1356 .

The mags claim the 208 isent as stong as the 1356 case . Somthing about the chain or bearings . But you dont have to move the shifter . I believe you will never find a good aluminum case unless it has atles wrote on it .

I agree with you on that, I've got an Atlas with a NV4500 in my jeep. This is mainly just a tow vehicle with ocassional 4wd usage. I need something to tow my YJ. Aside from relocating the shifter is the 205 a direct bolt in, i'm running the e4od off a 7.3l diesel.

Originally posted by 1988YJ
I agree with you on that, I've got an Atlas with a NV4500 in my jeep. This is mainly just a tow vehicle with ocassional 4wd usage. I need something to tow my YJ. Aside from relocating the shifter is the 205 a direct bolt in, i'm running the e4od off a 7.3l diesel.

I've spoken with two people who have rebuilt their 1356's for $200-250 in parts, incl new chain - I dunno if that's considered expensive or not.

To fit the 205 you'll probably have to notch the tailshaft housing for the shift linkage.

I'm overly paranoid 'cause I've cracked a tailshaft housing and so I'd recommend you support the heavy 205 with a crossmember. I know, I know everyone tells me the tailshaft takes all the weight - like I said I'm just paranoid from a freak personal experience, this was with my E4OD/1356:

http://www.superford.org/registry/users/33/139/DCP_0372.JPG

The 205 came with an aditional bracket, from the factory, on the '78-'79 Bronco. It's probably a good idea, with an aluminum tailshaft housing.

I mounted the origanal plate to the frame of my 88 bronco . I had to fab one bracket . Pretty simple . I did break the bolts going to transfer case . About 500 trailes ago . Looks like i need to fix it . You probably will have to notch it like D60 said . Unless you can find a junkyard adapter . I have had this setup about 4 years . I only have a six poper . Never seen one on a 7.3 deisel . You should probably pay close attention to the tcase mount , on the frame .

Iam not sure about the length of the tcase . If anything the 205 is shorter . You may have to shorten and lengthen the drive shafts . I cant remember, to many chunks and trasmissions ago . It may work fine . Most all ford 205s use fixed yolks .

Originally posted by 1988YJ
Thanks for the tip. I'll pay special attention to that when I take it apart. It sounds like if it hasn't spun the pump I should be able to rebuild it myself.

I found the link which speaks of this:
http://www.technicalevolution.com/borg1356.htm

Interesting IMO

Take a look here (stolen from a friends email on another list.. Thanks Keith)
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/tcasebear.html

http://www.technicalevolution.com/borg1356.htm

http://www.truckparts-specialists.com/catalog/transfer-case/transfer-case-picture-index.htm

http://www.milemarker.com/4-x-2-accessories.html

http://www.atra-gears.com/gears/sep01/taming.html

http://www.drivetrain.com/transfercasesparts.html

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/slip_yoke_eliminators.htm

As I just told the other list, this is an easy TC to rebuild. An afternoon if parts are on hand, and cleaning equipment is available.

As for "just replacing the pump when it spins” Well I suppose if you caught it the second it spun, you could repair or replace the case half and the steel pump plate.. But reality is that the pump spins, TC looses all lube pressure, bearings and planetary burns up.

Great stuff, I've got some reading to do! Now at least I have some things to look for.

Paul

D60, where was that link for the endplay check on the planetary?

I can't find it now. Definitely important reading if it's jumping out of gear.

Mine needed a new planetary when it got rebuilt. That sucker was expensive.

Originally posted by sclemons
D60, where was that link for the endplay check on the planetary?

I can't find it now. Definitely important reading if it's jumping out of gear.

Mine needed a new planetary when it got rebuilt. That sucker was expensive.


Fourth one from the top on my list above (http://www.atra-gears.com/gears/sep01/taming.html)

i have a friend that works at a Ford dealer and he says the shift fork wears and could cause to jump out of gear, as it doesnt fully engage the teeth and pops out

I hope I'm that lucky, A shift fork would be a whole lot easier than a total rebuild.

Originally posted by 1988YJ
I hope I'm that lucky, A shift fork would be a whole lot easier than a total rebuild.

If you've got the case open I'd just rebuild it man.

FWIW I just ordered all the parts for a rebuild from drivetrain.com, it was $300.61 incl shipping. This included a new oil pump which was around $60. The chain was $127.00 and is OEM Borg Warner/Morse. The rest was misc seals and bearings.

D60 did you order a rebuild kit and the over
haul kit ? or individule parts ?


was your pump Bad ?

I would think that the pump would be a gear
driven asembly ?

I ask this question as my case is working ok
at present but has 150000 miles on it
and I am going to rebuild it to replace
the chain.

any body have a scematic of this case ??

any other parts I should buy before I
get started??


thanks.

Originally posted by Land Crusher
any body have a scematic of this case ??


Here's your schematic LOL:

http://www.superford.org/registry/users/33/139/BW1356_012.jpg

http://www.superford.org/registry/users/33/139/BW1356_013.jpg

Top row: overhaul kit part #K256000 $84.70, lower left OEM chain part #208888F $126.58, lower right oil pump kit part #K201900 $73.83

D60

its sunday and I am going to order the parts
on monday orbtuesday .

would you recomend ordering the pump ?\\

basically does the pump have any parts
on it that you would belive would whear out
under normal use.

and now that you have yours apart is ther
any other parts you are going to buy,

PS I really want to say thanks for all the info.
I have over a thousand posts on this board
but very few on the ford forum.,
1990 ford f250 460 with 5 speed has ran
great for over 150.000 miles.;) ;) ;)

Originally posted by Land Crusher
basically does the pump have any parts
on it that you would belive would whear out
under normal use.

and now that you have yours apart is ther
any other parts you are going to buy,

I have no idea on the pump. I've never heard of one failing (aside from wearing thru the case and no longer pumping, but that's not the pump's fault) but for an additional $73 it seemed well worth it to me. I'd like to rebuild this one and have it last another 180k, that's just me.

U wouldn't rebuild a motor without a new oil pump, not sure why a t-case would be any different. Since the t-case can be a "show stopper" I'd replace the pump. These 'cases will actually run for quite some time w/poor lubrication, they'll just scream REAL bad. If you've got a long hiway drive home and no tow rig a new oil pump is a good idea! I once filled my 1356 w/water, it got me home 3 hours on the hiway but screamed at me the whole time. I think sclemons may have experienced pump failure?

I don't think there are any other parts I will buy. I will say you need some HD snap ring pliers (picked some up at Napa for $26), and I still need to find a suitable bearing puller for these bearings - ie something that pulls from thru the I.D. of the bearing. Still looking for that, Napa wanted $140 for one model and $200 for another, and they would have had to order either.

'Course I do love buying new tools!!

The thing that makes me nervous about
rebuilding this case.

Is that in the pickture provided by D60

there is clearly a big hamer and a pipe wrench

Im not really comfortable useing those
tools.

I probubly could talk my self into useing
the hamer but the pipe wrench is a little
bit much for me.


;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)


ps for a cheep tool have you tried harbor freight ??

INFO FOR original question
I talked to the parts person when I bought my parts today he said that the pads on the shift
fork go bad this will cause it to slip out
of engagement
new pads come in over haul kit. 84.$
new fork if it is damaged 40$

OH yes I jecked on what a new planetary gear
set cost 300$ to 450$ for the updated one.

Thanks for the info:beer: