We had a customer show up with this 1966 1/4 ton cargo trailer and he wanted to transform it into a expedition trailer.

He dropped of the trailer with 35" tires a 3,500 lb axle and a roof top tent, and gave me a rough idea on what he was after.

She it still a work in progress, however she is taking shape as time progresses.

Let me know if you have any good inside as this is my first expedition trailer build

The lid should be here mid next week.

Troy.

More Photos.

I am looking for insight and or user feed back.

Tomorrow we will work on a rear tire carrier to fit a 40" tire and plating in the rear fender supports.

Troy

Are you doing the full conversion or just the rolling framework?


A receiver hitch (square hole) that is vertical instead of pointing out the back would be useful for say a charcoal griller full of used charcoal that you dont want to load back inside with your sleeping bag.


AND ZOOM OUT A LITTLE,please


And ive heard these bitchings before, youll need
at least 60 gallons of good bleachy swimming pool water to wash of that fishy smell like the water at the lake
Propane because wood fires are so messy
10 ton central heat and AC unit because my feet are sweaty
a detachable toungue bacuase youll trip over that in the dark
turbine powered generator because that sounds like an old tractor i cant sleep
stadium style flood lighting to see what made that noise over there in the woods
rack mounted audio system to be sure and drownd out all that wilderness noise, crickets, running brook, wind in the trees,chirping birds,howling wolves, bears shitting in the woods etc etc

I am missing parking break on the wheels (not using original axle) make an adjustable foot on the rear hitch also, even better if it has a crank for adjusting.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff267/SubicJeep/1-Cherokee-2011/Blackcaton35.jpg

x2 on zoom out.

You're looking for insight, not inside. You're already inside working on it. ;)

Is the top there yet? Any progress? More Pictures?

Man it would be good if you could make it a dually then youd have three spare tires.


I was wandering whats the difference between a M416 and a M100 i googled but not much?

And whats the name of the trailer that has a wider an flatter bed with straight sides?


http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTds0tJUjpnrG7vgq3yAH5I2sTlOM-PD_rsENPW3bNFxB8F3bE_

:smokin:

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/blazed405/2011-05-15_02-58-51_169.jpg


TurboCad....

A few updated pictures.

Troy

And whats the name of the trailer that has a wider an flatter bed with straight sides?


http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTds0tJUjpnrG7vgq3yAH5I2sTlOM-PD_rsENPW3bNFxB8F3bE_

M101a1/m101a2/m101a3 depending on the axle under it. But there are also much larger similar trailers.

My m101a2 behind my JK
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=595680&stc=1&d=1305061797

That 416 is coming along sweet

My .02 is get rid of the pintle hitch and go with a lock and roll.. The pintle is strong but noisy off road, mine just about drove me crazy..

Also a good idea is lighten up the spring pack and add air adjustable shocks. Its nice to be able to have the stability for the heave loads on the way in but still be able to soften the ride after you have emptied your water, fuel cans, propane and drank all the beer.

I second the adjustable support leg on the rear, I have surfed in my trailer while trying to climb in after it was unhooked.

And make sure if you put a 40" spare on the back to have enough permanent tongue weight to counter it. Its one thing if you are building your own trailer you can say, oh well I'll just make sure I offset the weight when I load it. But when the customer takes off down the road and the thing starts bouncing all around it will always be "that guy who built it wrong".

Hope this helps, I have built up a few trailers for customers and my self and these are things that have helped.

Nick

Yup,

Was just going to say, w/ a 40" tire hanging off the back of that thing, is it going to have any tongue weight at all? Notice how Doc's trailer has the spare at the front...


otherwise, looks cool!

--B

This may be obvious, but what if the triler ran the same tire & wheel combo as the rig and you had two spares? The way it sits now, there's no spare for the trailer (you said it has 35's and the rig has 40's).

That also gives you one extra spare for the rig if things get really rough on the trail.

Looks great though.:smokin: This is on my list once my rig is done.

i like it. looks pretty cool.

This may be obvious, but what if the triler ran the same tire & wheel combo as the rig and you had two spares? The way it sits now, there's no spare for the trailer (you said it has 35's and the rig has 40's).

That also gives you one extra spare for the rig if things get really rough on the trail.

Looks great though.:smokin: This is on my list once my rig is done.

The trailer will run a 35" tire and the Jeep will run a 37" close enough to get out of a bind.

The trailer lid should be here on Monday. I'm looking forward to getting this trailer wrapped up.

Troy

Looks good so far. Just thought I'd throw in another plug for stabilizer jacks in the rear. Looked at a similar setup last week that didn't have any jacks and it was sketchy at best when the tent was open and the trailer was not attached to the tow rig.

looks great, who is making the lid for you? Someone in the portland area? cheers ian

The lid is all cut out, I added a bonus compartment that is 3.0" wide that will face the rear of the trailer and have a flip up lid on the side. I figure this will be handy carrying long heavy tools, or a fishing pole or ????? as the bottom and inside will be fully sealed from the rest of the lid.

Troy

How about some updates? http://www.slicky.net/smilies/fingersx.gif
Billy

How about some updates? http://www.slicky.net/smilies/fingersx.gif
Billy

We have the lid almost finished, as well as the 3" wide storage compartment build into the lid. Today we will attach the hinges and weld angle iron to the inside bottom edge to provide a flat surface and apply some weather stripping to keep water out.

Wiring is all done. I need to build some light buckets, mount the tent, locks, gas struts and a high lift jack.

I should have that wrapped up this week.

Troy

Nice. I'm at about the same point in my build, so I really appreciate the pics!

Are you going to mount the tent directly to the lid or are you going to build a "rack" that it will sit on?

Thanks,
Billy

Nice. I'm at about the same point in my build, so I really appreciate the pics!

Are you going to mount the tent directly to the lid or are you going to build a "rack" that it will sit on?

Thanks,
Billy

I will weld on a couple rails for the tent and mount two 8 gallon Action Packer bins on the rear........naturally.:D

http://www.swagoffroad.com/images/24.JPG

Whats a price range on a mod like this?

Whats a price range on a mod like this?

Since the trailer first entered my shop I have put $940 into it, wiring, steel, struts, handles, tube, hinges, angel iron......etc. Labor ~$1100ish.

Troy

Since the trailer first entered my shop I have put $940 into it, wiring, steel, struts, handles, tube, hinges, angel iron......etc. Labor ~$1100ish.

Troy

Thanks

I built a rack for my TJ a few years ago had it powdercoated and I have only used it a couple times. I'm digging the look and fitment on the lid of this trailer. I'm not that partial to it, I will see if the customer likes it as much as I do on his trailer.

Here are a few additional pictures.

Still need struts, kick stand, bottle opener, latches and light buckets.

Troy

A few more.

Looks great, keep the pics coming :smokin:

The customer came by and wanted to make a few changes, starting with extending the hitch and adding a custom off road hitch.

An hour later whalll laa. :grinpimp:

Troy

More.

There she is all finished up.

Thoughts?

Subed, very nice :smokin:

A few updated pictures.

Troy

Thanks again for the feed back.

Very nicely done! Like it!
Scott

What is the V-notch for in the center of the piece of tube that runs perpendicular across the top of the tongue?

And what size/thickness is that tubing? It looks like it would be interesting to do light-weight stuff with.

What is the V-notch for in the center of the piece of tube that runs perpendicular across the top of the tongue?

And what size/thickness is that tubing? It looks like it would be interesting to do light-weight stuff with.

The v notch was done to clear the original couple, however that was removed and the v notch server no purpose.

As for the tubing on the rack it is 1.25 x .0625 tubing.

Troy

Anything new w/ this?
Billy

Anything new w/ this?
Billy

Bunches...... I'm thinking this trailer will leave the shop tomorrow........I will post up a few pictures tomorrow of here all finished up.

Troy

Bunches...... I'm thinking this trailer will leave the shop tomorrow........I will post up a few pictures tomorrow of here all finished up.

Troy

Sweet! Make sure you get lots of pics before it's too late!
Billy

sweet! Make sure you get lots of pics before it's too late!
Billy

x2

So what happened to the pics?

It has not left the shop yet. I won't let this trailer leave with out posting up a bunch of additional photos.

Troy

Yep, Great Job! Im in agreement, cant wait to see the additional pics...:D

She is set to leave the shop today.

More photos.

More.

And the complete 10 minute run down demo Youtube video.

‪Swag Off Road Military Expedition Trailer Build‬‏ - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiR5NkO9k84) .

Thanks Troy

trailer looks awesome! not sure im a fan of the hitch...i guess time will tell. id love to build one of these

trailer looks nice...

but your erroneous duplication of a Max C.
is a fail and a potential hazard to whom might use your coupler design.

holding things together with just threads is plumb local...
but, include 360* rotation to the threads ?

dangerous, no matter how much grease u put on it :shaking:

Make sure yer shops' Ins. covers yer lunacy

if U make more... U should mate a hardened steel rod with disc end cap (Precision tooling/welding required)
that would be inserted from the back entry of the sq. stock...
of course the sq. stock's thick end cap would need a large hole drilled and a collar would need to be welded
to sandwich and hold the shaft and disc for the proper end play

might even think to sandwich a disc type bushing inside (if won't melt when welding)
so as to minimize wear at the inside surface of the disc
adding a grease port/nipple at the proper location would be keen

qwick draw up... not of proportion and the disc should be thicker...
but it offers a general idea...

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z465/DellTaco00/Cuamco%20Max%20Coupler/maxcoupler360shaft.jpg

but don't try selling this to the public...
'cause I think Chris's Max C. owns the patent for it :grinpimp:

trailer looks nice...

but your erroneous duplication of a Max C.
is a fail and a potential hazard to whom might use your coupler design.

holding things together with just threads is plumb local...
but, include 360* rotation to the threads ?

dangerous, no matter how much grease u put on it :shaking:

Make sure yer shops' Ins. covers yer lunacy

if U make more... U should mate a hardened steel rod with disc end cap (Precision tooling/welding required)
that would be inserted from the back entry of the sq. stock...
of course the sq. stock's thick end cap would need a large hole drilled and a collar would need to be welded
to sandwich and hold the shaft and disc for the proper end play

might even think to sandwich a disc type bushing inside (if won't melt when welding)
so as to minimize wear at the inside surface of the disc
adding a grease port/nipple at the proper location would be keen

qwick draw up... not of proportion and the disc should be thicker...
but it offers a general idea...

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z465/DellTaco00/Cuamco%20Max%20Coupler/maxcoupler360shaft.jpg

but don't try selling this to the public...
'cause I think Chris's Max C. owns the patent for it :grinpimp:

WOW, not to say that your buddy's design is not better, but I think the Swag design is plenty strong enough for what he's doing here.

If your logic were correct, we all need to rethink our adjustable suspension links.:shaking:

Links have a jam nut to keep the links from turning on the threads and reducing vibration that would cause them to strip out. No jam nut here because he's relying on the threads to rotate to allow flex at the hitch. This could be done just as easily with the same bolt but a solid piece of tubing, just largeer than the shank, feed the head of the bolt through from inside the tube, weld a collar the same size as the shank tubing onto the bolt so it won't slide through but will pivot. Thread a nut onto the end of the bolt, weld the nut onto the threads, grind the nut and bolt shank so they can be welded to the spring bushing tube. Install spring bushing and bolt through spring hanger on trailer hitch. All done without utilizing thread strength anywhere.

Links have a jam nut to keep the links from turning on the threads and reducing vibration that would cause them to strip out. No jam nut here because he's relying on the threads to rotate to allow flex at the hitch. This could be done just as easily with the same bolt but a solid piece of tubing, just largeer than the shank, feed the head of the bolt through from inside the tube, weld a collar the same size as the shank tubing onto the bolt so it won't slide through but will pivot. Thread a nut onto the end of the bolt, weld the nut onto the threads, grind the nut and bolt shank so they can be welded to the spring bushing tube. Install spring bushing and bolt through spring hanger on trailer hitch. All done without utilizing thread strength anywhere.

X2, if there is a next time, this is how I will do it.

Troy