Searched high and low and other sites as well.

I will be doing an SOA shortly and I wanted to make sure I don't forget anything. Here's what I have so far:

Rancho 9012's
Hy-Steer
steel to make new plates and mounts

That seems to be it?

I don't plan on a shackle reversal yet so I won't be worrying about new power steering equip. I read that extending the drivelines isn't necessary.

Brakelines - You will probably want longer ones if you net some decent flex.
Traction bar for the rear - Nuff said

Driveshafts - I was able to use my stock front shaft on the rear and then have the stock rear re-tubed the correct length for the front.

Also while you got it all apart it's a good idea to check/replace bushings, center pin on leaf springs and shackle bolts. :D

Your profile says you have a 85 Toy. However if this is on a Landcruiser the high steer arms made for a mini will not bolt on to a Landcruiser 78’ and down. If you fall under this all you have to do is pick up the knuckle housing from a solid axel Toyota 4x4 79’ to 85’. All the rest will bolt right up. (Unless you got a drum front end on the LC…. Then get the whole disk brake set up off the donor rig!)

Good luck!

Mark

Why not go with rancho RS99034x? The new 9 position ranchos are $66 each at truckperformance.com. The 99034 are the new longer shocks,then there are the 99036(little bit longer)

Cool.

I haven't updated my profile yet but I just bought the FJ60 last night. Once I fix a couple bugs with the 85 toy I will be selling it to fund the cruiser project.

As for the steering components I will be picking up the allpro hy steer.

I'll look into the new ranchos. Thanks.

CUT N TURN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dont mess around, do it right the first time

CC... HUH???

Also, unless you already have your design all mapped out (with part numbers of shock mounts, etc), I wouldn't buy your shocks until you at least get your axles on and have the truck sitting on its own weight. The longer the shock the better for more articulation, with relatively no negative effects as for shock performance. It also sucks to work around your shocks when you should be working your shocks around your suspension (speaking from experience here...) - especially in the case of a 60. You can build custom mounts and shoot them way into the engine comparment with a little inner fender trimming. Then use Kurt's trick of diesel mud flaps or some sort of rubber to keep the crud out. For the rear you'll run into complications mostly because of the floor of the truck (and usually little desire to cut it out. I moved the upper shock mounts in towards the center and the axle mount right off the side of the axle. Worked good for me but I had a lot more articulation up front.

Andre