does the adjuster sleeve have to come off before the ball joint comes out?? just wondering before i start beating on it :D also wondering if the special tool for this adjuster is necassary. never heard anyone talk about it... thanks

It's easier if you remove the sleeve first. You need a special 4 pronged ball joint tool, costs less than $20 at napa.

It's called a dana 44 balljoint spanner wrench made by OTC tools and yes there are other makers.
It's a socket that has 4 prongs on the end and it is easyer if you hit the ball joint out first because the tapered end of the joint rest in the adjuster sleeve. And the adjuster sleeve comes out from the top.
hammer around the balljoint like you would when taking out a tie rod end.

don't forget to leave the top ball joint nut on by a few threads. Would hate to see the whole knuckle landing on you when the ball joint comes loose. Also, I usually start removal of the adjusting sleeve by breaking it lose using a hammer and punch in one of the notches. The sleeves tend to seize in there tight and due to the design of the spanner socket, you're likely to start rounding off teeth if you don't break the sleeve free before putting the socket to it.

Federal Mogul/MOOG ball joint "spanner" part #T40207 is what I use...not absolutely necessary...but nice to get the specs right.

MJ

The easiest way is to losen both nuts(upper and lower) then hit the lower part of the inner "c" by the balljoint hard. Then hit the upper part of the "c" by the upper balljoint hard and the knuckle falls off. Then you can take the adjuster sleeve out. Just the way I do it
*shurging shoulders*

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah
Federal Mogul/MOOG ball joint "spanner" part #T40207 is what I use...not absolutely necessary...but nice to get the specs right.

MJ

Hmm, I have part # "Cheap Ass 19mm deep socket and grinder" :p

Originally posted by jdjanda


Hmm, I have part # "Cheap Ass 19mm deep socket and grinder" :p

We must buy tools from the same dealer:D

DO you guys make all your own wrenches too?

Just cut em and weld em everytime you need a different size?

MJ:flipoff2:

thanks for the info, the guy at autozone had no idea :rolleyes: i think i'm going to go the cheap ass route :D i had thought of that allready, just wasn't sure if it would work. i tried the hammer and punch method too, siezed pretty good, wouldn't budge. it's been soaking for 2 days in kroil oil. i'll get the knuckle off first, it looked like the adjuster might have to come out first, but i guess not...

FWIW Car quest around these parts carries Moog stuff.

Autozone....ya...well...lol...:rolleyes: :D

Originally posted by jdjanda


Hmm, I have part # "Cheap Ass 19mm deep socket and grinder" :p

Like you have any expensive tools :flipoff2:

It must be a IH thing and I dont understand nor do I want to :D

OTC P/N 7080 > ~$19 at most auto parts stores

... modified socket ... sure, but what happens when you need that particular socket?! :D

cm "not worth my time" k

Originally posted by The Rockslut


Like you have any expensive tools :flipoff2:

It must be a IH thing and I dont understand nor do I want to :D

:rolleyes: Fawk'n heapers I guess because all your sheet is bolt on you forget how to fab :flipoff2:

I've got more then my fair share of Snap-on, all in metric from my pre-marriage days, all the standard tools are Craftsman and are post marriage. Hmm wonder why

Originally posted by jdjanda
:rolleyes: Fawk'n heapers I guess because all your sheet is bolt on you forget how to fab :flipoff2:

I've got more then my fair share of Snap-on, all in metric from my pre-marriage days, all the standard tools are Craftsman and are post marriage. Hmm wonder why

You dont have to lie about what tools you own. We all still dont like you :D

Some of my stuff may be bolt on like the 56" rear springs and passenger side drop t-case :rolleyes: but my junk doesnt break down every 100 yards on the trail. :eek:

Originally posted by The Rockslut


You dont have to lie about what tools you own. We all still dont like you :D

Some of my stuff may be bolt on like the 56" rear springs and passenger side drop t-case :rolleyes: but my junk doesnt break down every 100 yards on the trail. :eek:

Ahm wrong Scout bubba :rolleyes: I guess all Scouts look the same, just like all Heeps

Originally posted by jdjanda


Ahm wrong Scout bubba :rolleyes: I guess all Scouts look the same, just like all Heeps

DOH! :D

Originally posted by cmk
OTC P/N 7080 > ~$19 at most auto parts stores

... modified socket ... sure, but what happens when you need that particular socket?! :D

cm "not worth my time" k

Cm"I only have one socket set that my daddy gave me" K
:flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by syko
Cm"I only have one socket set that my daddy gave me" K
:flipoff2: :D

Well, you're half right.

An ex-girlfriend gave me the majority of my sockets. :flipoff2:

cm "she was a giver" k

Were you guys planning on telling this guy that he will need that socket in one form or another to torque the new sleeve down when he installs his new ball joint? It will be slightly difficult to get the propper preload torque using a punch and hammer.

i have the perfect 19 mm socket to make one :D i'm a cheapy ;)

Originally posted by SS406CJ
Were you guys planning on telling this guy that he will need that socket in one form or another to torque the new sleeve down when he installs his new ball joint? It will be slightly difficult to get the propper preload torque using a punch and hammer.

Was that the question, hah? That's what I thought :flipoff2:

Originally posted by SS406CJ
Were you guys planning on telling this guy that he will need that socket in one form or another to torque the new sleeve down when he installs his new ball joint? It will be slightly difficult to get the propper preload torque using a punch and hammer.

If you read the thread AGAIN you'll see that I eluded to it.

MJ:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

I always encourage people to use the right tools. But , it can be adjusted properly using the hammer and chissel method. Some factory manuals for the 44 show using a fish scale to measure the effort required to turn the knuckle. With this method you do not have to worry about a specified torque on the adjuster.

Brett

I just looked up the spec. GM says to remove the tie rod end, using a spring scale attached to the knuckle , pulling effort should not be more then 25 lbs after initial breakaway.

Spinner I also made my own 2 prong tool using an old 19mm I think....used it 2 or 3 times so far. Works wonderful. I used a 4" handgrinder with a thin cutting wheel to notch the socket. No pics.

FWIW, the adjuster comes off WAY easier with the knuckle off! i did one side each way, and it was a pain wiht the knuckle on... thanks for the help:D :D