Hey there guys i just purchased a set of 404 steer diffs that are currently on the boat between the states and australia... these will be going under my 93 lux running a 5lt V8 and twin toyo cases.. final reduction will be about 12-1 maybe a bit low but can always shift one of the boxes into high...

Question 1 ....as iv have mixed answers... what are the 404 drum dimentions.. i have a mate running 15in rims on his Mog at the moment with massive offest... Im trying to find out what dimentions there are so i can measure the back spacing so i can get new centres made for my rims... Ill be running 42x14x15 Irocs not really in the situation to buy new tyres just yet but when i do ill be going to 17s...

Question 2.... I am currently running a 11/4 master cylinder and booster... will this be ok to operate the Uni Mog Drum brakes sufficently..

I possibly will go to disc brake conversion at a later date when funds permit.

I run the same 42s on 15in rims "6 stud" on my mog with a decent amount of back space . From outside of tyre to tyre it's 2370mm. Little wide with the disc Brake conversion but I'm not running 4ws. Il measure up my back space drums etc when I get home if u like. Disc brake conversion I got from Queensland that utilizes hilux calipers and disc and stud pattern. At least u won't break a diff at tuff truck again!

I run the same 42s on 15in rims "6 stud" on my mog with a decent amount of back space . From outside of tyre to tyre it's 2370mm. Little wide with the disc Brake conversion but I'm not running 4ws. Il measure up my back space drums etc when I get home if u like. Disc brake conversion I got from Queensland that utilizes hilux calipers and disc and stud pattern. At least u won't break a diff at tuff truck again!

Can you post a a few pics also mate.... And yes hoping to have my drive train hold together for a few yrs now... My last diffs were the same width as yours with rear steer as i was running 3in wheel spacers all round...
But for the next 12months or so ill be running drum brake all round.. it stops a unimog it will stop a hilux...

Working away at the moment mate Check my build on westcoastcrawlers.com.au
I was very impressed on how well the drums pulled my mog up and it's 2.9 tons so yeah hilux not a problem.

She's gonna be wide with 15" wheels :)
If you cut the our lip off the drum and backing plate you can get them in a bit further, but she'll still be around 2250-2300 wide. This width is what kills portal boxes too, they don't take the leverage well.

Your 1.25" M/C will be fine seeing as you are running a front axle in the rear as well. It would be a bit big if you had a rear axle in the back (rear wheel cylinders are smaller).

The Unimog brakes are great IF they are in good condition. If the wheel cylinders show ANY signs of leakage get them sleeved or replace them.

She's gonna be wide with 15" wheels :)
If you cut the our lip off the drum and backing plate you can get them in a bit further, but she'll still be around 2250-2300 wide. This width is what kills portal boxes too, they don't take the leverage well.

Your 1.25" M/C will be fine seeing as you are running a front axle in the rear as well. It would be a bit big if you had a rear axle in the back (rear wheel cylinders are smaller).

The Unimog brakes are great IF they are in good condition. If the wheel cylinders show ANY signs of leakage get them sleeved or replace them.

Thanks for that info mate... the diffs are factory reconditioned from Swissarmy suplliers so im hoping they bont need to be touched.. fingers crossed...

Im also going to swap left to right portals on the rear axle to keep the portals running the same direction seeing there helical cut gears..

Im also going to swap left to right portals on the rear axle to keep the portals running the same direction seeing there helical cut gears..

Cool. There's an easy way to do that as well.

FIRST SECURELY LOCK THE DIFF LOCK :D

Unbolt the portals from the knuckles and remove the portals with the axle shafts attached.

Undo the little bolts holding the bearing retaining rings onto the backs of the portals. You can now tap the portals off the CV shafts. The shafts will come out with the top gear and inner and outer bearings.

There's a staked screw to deal with, and then you can pull off the outer bearings and the gears and swap them across and reassemble.

This all goes pretty quickly and easily (you don't even have to empty the oil out of the portals if you are careful), in my opinion it is heaps easier than separating the CV/cardin joint and doing it that way.

Hey there guys i just purchased a set of 404 steer diffs that are currently on the boat between the states and australia... these will be going under my 93 lux running a 5lt V8 and twin toyo cases.. final reduction will be about 12-1 maybe a bit low but can always shift one of the boxes into high...

Question 1 ....as iv have mixed answers... what are the 404 drum dimentions.. i have a mate running 15in rims on his Mog at the moment with massive offest... Im trying to find out what dimentions there are so i can measure the back spacing so i can get new centres made for my rims... Ill be running 42x14x15 Irocs not really in the situation to buy new tyres just yet but when i do ill be going to 17s...

Question 2.... I am currently running a 11/4 master cylinder and booster... will this be ok to operate the Uni Mog Drum brakes sufficently..

I possibly will go to disc brake conversion at a later date when funds permit.

In my opinion i would get rid of the heavy ass drum brakes, get the portal braces that serve as the disc brake mounts (he goes by Weps on here) and use an H1 rim (16.5 in, you'll need to change the mog hubs to eight lugs). If you go too wide you are putting alot of leverage on that portal box. Good luck.

So my diffs finally turned up...:D
But im not happy... these were ment to be fully reco drum to drum axles.. 1 is complete and im happy with it the other turned up missing the slave cylinders and brakes... but had brand new drums on it... I contacted SwissArmy Vechicles who i bought them through and i got you got them at the right price deal with it... so i have contacted both Ebay and Paypal to retract my payment untill i recieve the parts... :mad3::mad3:

On a lighter note i started work on the rear axle and slotted it under the car... a few pics for you to look at.
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/macarthur4x4/ph5oto.jpg
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/macarthur4x4/p1hoto.jpg
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/macarthur4x4/ph3oto.jpg
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/macarthur4x4/ph4oto.jpg

Looking good, the high upper link mounts are a good idea.

A few notes.

1) You are going to taco that tie rod on your first outing.
2) Your wheels should probably have more backspacing if you can manage it.

Looking good, the high upper link mounts are a good idea.

A few notes.

1) You are going to taco that tie rod on your first outing.
2) Your wheels should probably have more backspacing if you can manage it.

Yeah the high uppers is so i dont get the leverage to rip the rear out.. been there done that on a standard diff... Iv spoken to alot of people that build trucks for a living and they all said about 12in link separation at the diff for portals.

1) You are going to taco that tie rod on your first outing. Yeah im thinking of haveing a bar off the diff to protect the rear well until i get high steer anyway...

2) Your wheels should probably have more backspacing if you can manage it. The wheels are just strapped on at the moment as you can see there resting up agains the wheel studs, so i should be able to get them in another 2in either side and bring the wheel track done to 2150-2200 wide... Cant get them in any further unless i get 17s and new tyres and no $$$$ to do that at the momnet.

Good plan with the wheels.

As to the tie rod, I bent the piss out of mine after I added hydraulic assist without catching it on anything, just from the force the cylinder applied.