Not trying to beat a dead horse, but....

If any one is planning on doing BW to 230 swap and needs visual assistance (pics) I have removed the the Tcase from my parts truck and can take pics of any parts or assemblies lincage etc. Let me know, as the new owner of these parts is picking them up soon.

-Jeff

I would love to see some picks of the linkage I will need to obtain to go from BW to LT.

thanks.

Jeff, I am currently looking for a LT230 and would also be interested in seeing what is required for the swap.

Thanks,

Ron

Hey man,

I need you to take a shot of the solenoid for me, and/or make me a plate to put on mine.

Maybe just dimensions of the plate would be sufficient.

Anyway, you know what I need. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Serious One
Hey man,

I need you to take a shot of the solenoid for me, and/or make me a plate to put on mine.

Maybe just dimensions of the plate would be sufficient.

Anyway, you know what I need. :flipoff2:


1st off, no solinoid on the 87. But on mine I removed the solenoid from its housing (got screwdriver?) and used a bit of RTV to seal the wire hole and to reseal the housing onto the case.

The reason I did this was for concours points for keeping the stock appearance at the ABFM......and the fact that it was easier than making a plate. :flipoff2:


And for the Brad and Rojo, Ill snap some pics either tonight or tomorrow.

-Jeff

I followed the JSBriggs method of solenoid dispatching, and then sealed it back up with the original cover plate. We also left the other wires that comes out right beside the solenoid wires on since we had no clue what they were for and simply filled in the plastic connector end on the wire with some rtv.


Rojo - there are 2 lt230s for sale on www.discoweb.org right now for $270 each around 80K on each one from rollovers, seems like a great price... I am on the look-out for a linkage for my BW/ LT swap, I will call this guy about that when I have the cash, if you call him sooner please inquire about the linkages. ( how many he has and price )

JSB - my concern is how to mount the new shifter securely where the old hi/low used to be. Is this a bolt in job or do I need to bust out the old JB Weld to seal the deal.

Serious One - how did you resolve this ( I take it you are still 2wd with that solenoid in there so your shifter ain't working no how :flipoff2: )

Brad

Brad, the 230 linkage bolts onto the ZF right where the BW linkage unbolts (you will notice an unused boss with the bw linkage still on)

http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030078.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030096.jpg


Rojo here is the list

Linkage (see above)

Tcase (notice same mounting surface pattern as a BW)
http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030089.jpg


Mounting bracket
http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030083.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030091.jpg


Front Drive Shaft (shorter)
http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030093.jpg

& Parking Brake Linkage (this is from a 230 equiped RR, I haven't seen the disco linkage, and the one I put in my RR I modified the BW Pbrake linkage)

http://pics.montypics.com/JSBriggs/2002-12-03/pc030086.jpg

-Jeff

Originally posted by TallBrad

Serious One - how did you resolve this ( I take it you are still 2wd with that solenoid in there so your shifter ain't working no how :flipoff2: )

Brad

Hey Brad,

Actually I *think* the solenoid is a lock-out mechanism for shifting from hi to low. I believe the solenoid recieves a signal from the brake switch to know that you have actually stopped, and it's 'OK' to put the t-case in the opposite range it happens to be in at the time.

That said, we had a 50/50 chance of it being in high-range when we installe it. Luckily it was.

What you can still activate is the diff-lock lever, which is engaged, which also, BTW, allows me to drive w/out my front driveline which has yet to be shortened.

So, even though my LT-230 is technically 'in', I have yet to do the following:

1. Install front driveline (after shortening)

2. Remove lock-out solenoid

3. Modify tunnel cover/shift boot

4. Hook up all linkages

I think I'm like many on the board, I have 10 pots a boiling on a 4 burner stove.

My wife complains about the 'clunking' with the front driveline gone, so I might have to get that taken care of shortly. I'll probably lower the t-case and take care of the solenoid before I do the driveline install though. I figure it'll be easier to just remove the rear one, rather than both of them later.

OK, Ok, so I have a half-assed LT-230 conversion, but it took someone else we know several weeks to get his done (right Briggs???? :flipoff2:).

Originally posted by Serious One

OK, Ok, so I have a half-assed LT-230 conversion, but it took someone else we know several weeks to get his done (right Briggs???? :flipoff2:).

Ok, Ok.

It took me 2 weeks to figure out and install the Pbrake linkage (I kinda put the cart before the horse, but the crew cab Tcase did fine for the engineering mockup:flipoff2:) 3-4 monthes to get a front driveline, and after that I wheeled in in twice before I decided to modify the tunnel cover to let the diff lock linkage have some "breathing room", but I did do the solinoid and the hook up all of the shift linkage.

As far as a front drive line, buying a Disco (IorII) or earlier RR shaft is easier and cheaper, unless you are planing to get one of those Kustom pretzel jobs. :flipoff2:

-Jeff

Too Funny Serious!!!

You mean I need a shorter drive shaft too !?!?!?!? ... I somehow missed that.. I might as well bite the bullet and get a DC front shaft now - jeesh - that puts back the finish date by a bit... I guess I need to start doing my homework before I take it all apart in the street...

Santa - I sure hope you are getting all of this.

Thanks for the photos JSB

Ok, more info about the LT-230 swap.

The lock-out solenoid apparently sends a signal to the ignition switch. If the vehicle's t-case is in N(eutral), then the ignition key cannot be removed.

So, after about an hour of trying to figure out which wires went where and what needed to be bypassed under the truck, I decided to heck with it, I'm just goin to bypass the ignition switch.

Tore apart the underdash and steering column cover and started tracing wires.

It's definitely obvious which wires go to the lock. On my '94 RR, there was a 4-prong black plug, seperate from the dimmer plug (3-prong blue).

It has a black, red purple/black and some other colored wire that goes to the switch. I figured the red/black were to power the solenoid, and the other two wires were the signal to activate the solenoid.

Unplugged said plug, and voila, my key lock problems were over.

I also took the time to remove the speaker that reminds you if the keys are in the ignition, lights are on, etc....alwas hated that kind of stuff anyway.

I wish auto makers would quit trying to protect me from myself. For what, 40 years or so we didn't need a key lock-out, a neutral alarm, a parking lock solenoid, et..... now all of a sudden we are stupid and need all of that stuff.

It's been neat to re-engineer the Serious One and now the crewcab. I can leave out all the crap and build in all the goodies.

Anyway, another tidbit for the ever growing fountain of knowledge regarding the LT-230 swap.

Originally posted by Serious One
Ok, more info about the LT-230 swap.

I wish auto makers would quit trying to protect me from myself. For what, 40 years or so we didn't need a key lock-out, a neutral alarm, a parking lock solenoid, et..... now all of a sudden we are stupid and need all of that stuff.

It's been neat to re-engineer the Serious One and now the crewcab. I can leave out all the crap and build in all the goodies.

Anyway, another tidbit for the ever growing fountain of knowledge regarding the LT-230 swap.

it must be US regulations that calls for this, as the UK defenders don;t have any of this crap on them. although the discovery i had the other day had the headlight warning buzzer...annoying! why didn't they wire the disco's like the defenders, so when you remove the key the headlights turn off and the sidelights stay on!

Jamie

Some more pics. Close ups of shift linkage.

shift linkage

more shift linkage

shift linkage 4

Mone did come with a fancy boot :( ;)

shift linkage last one

Way,
Much cleaner, nicer pics. I noticed you have a garage! <one can dream> Also looks like you have a Defender or older RR Tcase ie no solenoid.

-Jeff

What does the selenoid do? I am a still a newbie :D Can I run it without?

Way

Interestingly, on a R380 equipped truck you just unbolt that bottom bracket from the shifter assembly and bolt it right to the top of the tranny with the 4 bolts. Here is a pict.

Billster

It is a lock out solenoid. and yes you can and SHOULD (mike) run with out it! It won't allow you to shift from high to low unles you are in neutral. When it malfunctions, guess what.....you can't shift from high to low.

-Jeff

Great. That is good news. Thanks for the input. This T-case was originally hooked up to an R380. It is out of a 95 Disco. Therefore an LT230T. For some reason I was under the impression that the shift linkage just bolted to the LT230.

I like the pics. Keep them coming. My daily driver died today???, so as soon as I figure out what in the hell is wrong with that, I plan on starting the swap.

Way