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Old 03-03-2010, 10:01 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Then make them for those shafts. That would be a show stopper for me. As I will be buying those shafts eventually.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:33 AM   #152 (permalink)
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x2 on getting those shafts down the road.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #153 (permalink)
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Mine just got here. I already have new balljoints but when they go I plan on going with these if they are out. I also vote to make them short to work.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:01 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Anyone got an actual dimension for Jeff on how much sticks past the nut? I don't have an assembled 44 with outers on for me to measure.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:16 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Wouldnt the dimensions of the C change that measurement? I mean you press in the joint and depending on how thick the C is will determine how far the threads will stick out.

OR, are all the C's about the same dimension (thickness above the taper)? Something to think about..

Edit: I guess it would be the Knuckle that I am talking about. That is the taper I am talking about.

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Old 03-03-2010, 01:23 PM   #156 (permalink)
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I'm with everyone else, low profile nut and shank on the lower ball joint to clear after market shafts. I had to grind mine down to fit. And if grinding the shank will void the warranty, there would be no point in me buying them. I will try to measure when i get home and post up. get home in just over a hour and a half from now. I will see what I can come up with.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:30 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Make em short - the only reason's I'd even run a D44 are these BJ's and the RCV shafts...
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:42 PM   #158 (permalink)
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I also think that a majority of the people that actually need high strength ball joints will be running RCV shafts. Making your joints not compatible would really be shooting yourself in the foot.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:54 PM   #159 (permalink)
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I also think that a majority of the people that actually need high strength ball joints will be running RCV shafts. Making your joints not compatible would really be shooting yourself in the foot.

That's my plan, should be the ideal setup for me, providing I can keep the teenager out of the driver seat.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:57 PM   #160 (permalink)
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I will piggyback on everyone elses suggestions, Make them shorter. I am planning on going with those shafts as well
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Old 03-03-2010, 03:09 PM   #161 (permalink)
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I have .75" of thread on my lower ball joint after grinding it down to clear my Yukon 4340 shafts.

Also, I didn't catch in earlier posts, but these will be good for late 70's Chevy 44's as well, correct?

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Old 03-03-2010, 03:50 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I also think that a majority of the people that actually need high strength ball joints will be running RCV shafts. Making your joints not compatible would really be shooting yourself in the foot.
there's still a lot of us running chromolly shafts and CTM's
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:39 PM   #163 (permalink)
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I just took a quick measurement and it looks like it you were to take between .120 and .125 off of the threads on the lower balljoint it should clear. I think that if you were to use a lower profile nut and take a little more that might be a little better.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:20 PM   #164 (permalink)
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The lower profile the better. Even those of us that are not running RCV shafts. That would help if a u joint was broken to keep the shaft from hitting the ball joint and take it out too.
Pretty common problem with front Dana 44s
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:20 PM   #165 (permalink)
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The lower profile the better. Even those of us that are not running RCV shafts. That would help if a u joint was broken to keep the shaft from hitting the ball joint and take it out too.
Pretty common problem with front Dana 44s
Very good point. I never even thought about that
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:33 AM   #166 (permalink)
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theres really no point in not making them short.

doesn't hurt anything, but it opens them up to a lot more people. Im not going to say that I will be running these joints, and RCV shafts because more then likely they will be out of my price range...but money aside, id buy those joints, slap those shafts in there, and say to hell with building a 60
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:40 AM   #167 (permalink)
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I just looked at those RCV shafts and wasn't expecting nearly a $1500 price tag on them. For now, I will stick with my Yukon 4340's and Super Joints. But I am really liking the idea of a re-buildable ball joint. I just need to be sure that my axles will clear them without any modifications needed to the shaft of the lower ball joint. And, of coarse, the price of these ball joints will be a big factor of if I buy these right away.

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Old 03-05-2010, 06:40 AM   #168 (permalink)
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I just looked at those RCV shafts and wasn't expecting nearly a $1500 price tag on them. For now, I will stick with my Yukon 4340's and Super Joints. But I am really liking the idea of a re-buildable ball joint. I just need to be sure that my axles will clear them without any modifications needed to the shaft of the lower ball joint. And, of coarse, the price of these ball joints will be a big factor of if I buy these right away.
Not sure where you got the price for the RCV I paid just over 1100 for mine shipped. Ordered them from Sean.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:18 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Not sure where you got the price for the RCV I paid just over 1100 for mine shipped. Ordered them from Sean.
Sorry./. $1485 for the NON unit bearing traditional spindal 44 with the drive slugs. $1285 without he drive slugs.

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...products_id=67

and yes I realize you should be able to get them from a dealer for less. but that is where I got the price I posted earlier.

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Old 03-05-2010, 08:42 AM   #170 (permalink)
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/forum/axles-tires-wheels/836020-rcv-dana-44-cv-axle-set-non-unit-bearing-traditional-spindle-now-available.html

They're quoted lower in that thread. Have prices gone up?
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:45 AM   #171 (permalink)
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=836020

They're quoted lower in that thread. Have prices gone up?

Maybe that was a PBB Price? I havent seen that thread before now, so I don't know.
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:59 AM   #172 (permalink)
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looks like prices have gone up almost 200 bucks on those.

im thinking if i go with "super" shafts now itll just be some chromolies and longfield joints.

no way i could fork over 1300 for those shafts and another 200 for driveslugs to throw in a 44
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:02 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Well, they do recomend a Warn Lock out, so the drive slugs, I guess arent needed.
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:18 AM   #174 (permalink)
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theres really no point in not making them short.

doesn't hurt anything, but it opens them up to a lot more people.
I agree. I'm running Alloy USA shafts and Longfield joints, but there's no reason to make the stud any taller than it needs to be, and shorter leaves me the RCV upgrade option later if I ever decide to go that route.
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Old 03-05-2010, 03:05 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Well, they do recomend a Warn Lock out, so the drive slugs, I guess arent needed.
Ive broken Warn Premiums with stock shafts and spicer joints with the caps tack-welded.
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