Aluminum D60 Hub Request

[Dustin]

I need chevy ones.

How difficult (expensive) would it be to scallop the wheel mounting flange so that the rotor could be slipped off over it?

[DrVic723]

Not difficult.

[brooksy1]

Interested, Chevy 8 bolt.

I am in Australia.




brooksy

[dogbender]

I would like some chevy ones that went straight to a 10 lug semi wheel (285.75mm bolt pattern and a 220.1 pilot hole)

[raceanything]

Chevy 5 on 5.5" guy- watching w/ interest

[DrVic723]

Originally Posted by raceanything

Chevy 5 on 5.5" guy- watching w/ interest

FYI - We did some drawing, and in order for a standard 6x5.5 (or 5x5.5) wheel to fit over a D60 hub you would need to machine about .070" diameter off the inside of your wheel. Not a big deal in my book, but could be a deterrent to others.

What 6 x 5.5 rotor would everyone be most inclined to run? Toy or Chev?

[dogbender]

If it had a dual flange you could have any number of rotors bolt to the inside of the hub. A piloted shoulder would allow the use of standard hardware to attach the rotor. 6 lug rotor wouldn't be necessary.

[Soup Man]

Originally Posted by DrVic723

FYI - We did some drawing, and in order for a standard 6x5.5 (or 5x5.5) wheel to fit over a D60 hub you would need to machine about .070" diameter off the inside of your wheel. Not a big deal in my book, but could be a deterrent to others.

What 6 x 5.5 rotor would everyone be most inclined to run? Toy or Chev?

Chevy

And what will the OD of the bearing hub be?

[Pook]

Chevy.

6lug don't mind opening my wheels up. Would order 2 sets

[raceanything]

I'm not well versed in what the brake options are but I will be looking to get lighter and bigger diameter than my 1/2 ton chevy Dynatrac stuff next time.

[DrVic723]

Originally Posted by dogbender

If it had a dual flange you could have any number of rotors bolt to the inside of the hub. A piloted shoulder would allow the use of standard hardware to attach the rotor. 6 lug rotor wouldn't be necessary.

Almost every rotor would have a different mounting depth. Not a big deal on a rear-end, but somewhat critical on a steering axle.

[bonedust]

Originally Posted by Ballistic Eng

We are working on material pricing today. There is a difference in the Ford and Chevy hubs, which one should we do first?

id be in for a ford set...and it would get me off dead center to get a set for the 14b in the rear too.

[DrVic723]

Originally Posted by bonedust

id be in for a ford set...and it would get me off dead center to get a set for the 14b in the rear too.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bs_p_1695.html

These work without the drive flanges as well, so if you don't want CrMo shafts you can just buy the hubs and they will bolt to your factory 14B. Tried and tested @ KOH by Jack Adams.





Jeff

[Dustin]

Originally Posted by DrVic723

Almost every rotor would have a different mounting depth. Not a big deal on a rear-end, but somewhat critical on a steering axle.

The 8 on 7" flange for the rotor is a BIG part of this hub IMO. The ability to chose an aftermarket lightweight brake setup is at least as big of a weight saver as the aluminum hub is. From a cost standpoint, if I'm only going to save weight in one place, brakes are going to be cheaper than these hubs. For most of us, we want to save weight in the hubs and the brakes.

I understand that you need the ability to sell these as a kit, but from a racer point of view I expect to need to fabricate the caliper bracket to work with the rotor diameter, width, and caliper of my choice. Pick an aftermarket 8 on 7" rotor and caliper that you want to sell with the hub and let the rest of us worry about making our parts fit.

The chevy hubs I'm looking for would be 8 lug.

[DrVic723]

6x5.5" lug hubs using 8x6.5" lug D60 rotors. The first image is showing the difference in WMS offset. The hub on the left (red) is the final product, the hub on the right (blue) shows standard offset. The red hub will net a .62" reduction in WMS due to the fact that the rotor needs to go on the front of the hub, but can be negotiated with a .62" wheel spacer. We will include wheel studs that accommodate the added spacer if needed.

I will post the cost later this afternoon.

Coming tomorrow, the easier stuff ie 8-lug hubs.

[JackA]

Looks good. Would be nice to shed some weight off the front end.

[BigWoodyWag]

I'm kinda slow so...

Simple as just swapping out the current cast heavy mofo for 7075 would be tits.

Tell me if this wont work. Spidertrax hat, Tubeworks disc, Wilwood Caliper( and I fab the Caliper mount). Isn't that whats being proposed? If so I LOVE IT!!!! Way to step up Ballistic!

[DrVic723]

That is one option, certainly would be one of the easier ways to do it... but I'm not sure about the cheapest. Allen and I are starting on the 8-lug hubs today and we'll post whatever ideas we come up with later today.

[BigWoodyWag]

Originally Posted by DrVic723

That is one option, certainly would be one of the easier ways to do it... but I'm not sure about the cheapest. Allen and I are starting on the 8-lug hubs today and we'll post whatever ideas we come up with later today.

hahaha yeah definately not cheap but light, and mega stoppage with the Tubeworks rotor.

[Pook]

Originally Posted by BigWoodyWag

I'm kinda slow so...

Simple as just swapping out the current cast heavy mofo for 7075 would be tits.

Tell me if this wont work. Spidertrax hat, Tubeworks disc, Wilwood Caliper( and I fab the Caliper mount). Isn't that whats being proposed? If so I LOVE IT!!!! Way to step up Ballistic!

How'd you get pics of my new brakes?

6 lug need them next month. 4 of them and I can open up my wheels if need be.

[BigWoodyWag]

Originally Posted by Pook

How'd you get pics of my new brakes?

are we building twinkies?

[ISDTBower]

"Cheaper" might be a forging including the hat to the hub similar to wide 5 hubs. Priced (cast alum) around $200 ea

Or the Coleman/Speedway hub idea with flat adapter. It seems like you are just cutting that alum away anyhow. Go with a bigger dia billet and mount directly like wide 5 (Wilwood/Bert/etc.) That eliminates the $50 to $150 "hat".

[Dustin]

Originally Posted by ISDTBower

"Cheaper" might be a forging including the hat to the hub similar to wide 5 hubs. Priced (cast alum) around $200 ea

Or the Coleman/Speedway hub idea with flat adapter. It seems like you are just cutting that alum away anyhow. Go with a bigger dia billet and mount directly like wide 5 (Wilwood/Bert/etc.) That eliminates the $50 to $150 "hat".

Thats what I'm hoping for. I've been looking at different rotors, the Tube Works one are on the list. Anybody have a price on the Tube Works rotors?

[BigWoodyWag]

Originally Posted by ISDTBower

"Cheaper" might be a forging including the hat to the hub similar to wide 5 hubs. Priced (cast alum) around $200 ea

Or the Coleman/Speedway hub idea with flat adapter. It seems like you are just cutting that alum away anyhow. Go with a bigger dia billet and mount directly like wide 5 (Wilwood/Bert/etc.) That eliminates the $50 to $150 "hat".

That would be sweet as hell. And depending on machining you could nearly save the added weight of the HAT, as well as gain 3/8" or better of thread engagement on the lugstuds, equalling shorter lugstuds (less weight) and you could widen the axle but not widen track width. Shoot thats 3/4" wider and not changing your outside to outside measurement. IN!!! For all those times everything is fighting for space right at the Knuckle.

Originally Posted by Dustin

Thats what I'm hoping for. I've been looking at different rotors, the Tube Works one are on the list. Anybody have a price on the Tube Works rotors?

DSI said $175 each when he put them on his car that burned.

[Huss666]

Hey.... before this thread goes any further. Thank you guys for jumping on this, it really shows how interested you guys are in making what we really want/need.