Pirate 4x4 banner

Opinions?

4K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  blazinzuk 
#1 ·
Here is a list I've compiled for lifting my truck 4", it will eventually be 6"-7". 88 V10 Suburban on 10 bolts, that will change immediately after the lift. It's a DD and I was going to do 52's up front but everything I've read says that it increases body roll, I dont know if it's true. I want to be able to wheel it, but the damn thing has no clearance.

FRONT:

(2) Bilstein F4-BE5-6249-H5 = 29.7" Extended = 11.9" Travel = 17.9" Compressed
(2) 99-04 Ford F250/F350 Front Shock Towers
(2) BDS Suspesion 001401 4" Lift Glide Rite Leaf Springs
(2) ORD 5" Extended Brake Lines
(1) ORD 10 Bolt Crossover Steering Kit
(1) Weld-In Frame Reinforcement Kit
(1) GM 80's 2WD Rebuilt Steering Box (12:1??)
(2) DIY4X Knuckle Shock Tabs
(2) Replacement Shackles
(2) ORD U-Bolt Plates
(4) DIY4X U-Bolts
What About Driveshaft?

REAR:

(1) DIY4X Shackle Flip N' Switch w/ 4.5" Shackle
(2) Bilstein F4-BE5-6249-H5 = 29.7" Extended = 11.9" Travel = 17.9" Compressed
(2) ORD 5" Extended Brake Line
(1) DIY4X Shock Inboarding Kit
(2) DIY4X EZ Inch
(2) ORD U-Bolt Plates
(4) DIY4X U-Bolts
What About E-Brake Cables?

OPTIONAL:

(1) DIY4X Competition Motor Mounts
(1) ORD High Clearance HD Engine Crossmember For SBC

Anything I dont need on here? Anything I do need? Anything I could change?
 
See less See more
#2 ·
How about this.
1)Tell us a bit more about the usage.
2)Tell us tire size and type.
3)Tell us engine plans (stock or what)
4)A budget number wouldn't hurt.

With a 4" lift I would venture to say that your stock driveshafts should work fine. If you run into too many problems with the front you can put an adapter on the front of the t-case that can give you that extra inch. Also don't forget shims for the rear after the shackle flip. It will change pinion angle. But you'll need to check that after the install.
 
#3 ·
I forgot all about those items, thank you for reminding me. :)

1) Currently I just drive the truck. Maybe tow a trailer less than #3000 twice a year, if even. After the lift I will continue driving it and start wheeling it, hopefully little mud. Mostly just trails, rocky, muddy, very bumpy, hilly and awkward.
2) Currently running brand new 31x10.5R15 generic A/T's. After the lift I will run a set of 35's, hopefully KM2's. If not available, then a set of CL 35's.
3) Current engine is a stock TBI 350 and a 700R$/NP205. Eventually it will be a 5.3/NV4500/NP205 Twin stick. But intil then I may put in a rebuilt TBI 350 with a small cam and injection tuning and either rebuild the 700R4 or do an SM465 swap.
4) I have a budget of $200-$400/month. I hope to find a job that pays better than fucking Walmart. $500 for 80 hours of labor is bullshit.

I was under my truck last night, Ive learned that it's easiest to see the underbelly at night with a flashlight when you dont have 24hr access to a lift. I only have about 1" of yoke sticking out of my NP208, my 84 K10 I had previously had a 7" long yoke with a 700R4/NP208, so I'm guessing I have around 5.5" of yoke left, so driveshaft angle is the only problem I may encounter. Please correct me if Im wrong.

I am also pondering what to do about the E-Brake cables, I dont know how I would lengthen them, obviously I could splice the exposed cable and lengthen it, but that doesn't seem like the correct way to me.

My current U-bolts are not corroded, should I still get new ones even though it will be getting tons after this?
 
#4 ·
Two things I would change and these can be kind of at later date thing

Move the front upper shackle hangers forward, not too hard easier if you buy DIYs upper shackle hanger bracket. This will give a better shackle angle instead of the slighly forward you will probably end up with.

Also DIY ez inches. Allows the axle to be moved forward ( in the front) to help with tire clearance.

As far as driveshafts go simple as this, plan on getting new ones, not completely new if yours are in good shape but some lengthening may be in order.

Seems like every one of these trucks is totally different when it comes to driveshafts
 
#8 ·
That sounds like a simple solid plan , get it done, with your income your not gonna get the drivetrain swapped or tons any time soon so don't worry so much about that. Your driveshafts shouldn't need lengthening with that lift but you will find out once its done.
 
This post has been deleted
#20 · (Edited)
Here is a list I've compiled for lifting my truck 4", it will eventually be 6"-7"....
Your list looks good. Keeping it at 4" of lift will be cheaper and you will have a better ride quality.

And since your on a budget and cant fab things yourself,skip all the U bolt plates,there is nothing wrong with the stock pieces as long as yours are in good shape.And skip the knuckle shock tabs,the stock ones will be fine.

There are a lot more cost effective options for brake lines as well.You just have to do a little research. Napa lines or Earls,Aeroquip,Summit high pressure oil/brake lines available in any length you could want .

If you think there is ever a possibility that you might possibly get a Dana 60,skip the crossover steering.But if you are set on it WFO kicks ass and has nice crossover kits for for half ton stuff.
 
This post has been deleted
#24 ·
this^^^^. also if you fawk one up/break a leaf/whatever, replacements are usually $35 or less. average set of decent springs $400+ (not rauncho's, but some good riding springs such as Deavers or equivilant). try and warranty a set of lift springs, after they stop laughing they'll want you to "ship them the bad springs for inspection". then almost on que the standard response is "trail abuse, no warranty".
 
#26 · (Edited)
yes, so for the $1400 purchase price (thier web price on a set for a 77-87 truck) i can see the cost savings over a set of $35 junkyard springs that flex just as well. let's do the math:
if i were to pay myself $50 every time i had to R&R the springs plus the cost of the springs
1400/$85= 16

i would have to go through 16 sets of springs to make it worthwhile buying the bds springs. i can see the savings piling up. :shaking:

if i'm going to spend $1400, them i'm going to step up a little more and link it, then be done.
 
#27 ·
Try reading you flying idiot. We were talking about a set of BDS 4" front lift springs, not an entire kit. Go take your head out of your ass and read more than 3 posts.

The point of getting a set of BDS 4" lift springs is I dont have to make a new leaf spring mount. If it ever breaks I can go get another set for free. Yes, 52's are cheaper, in the long run they both come very close. But I also dont have fab skills. So a new mount, even a B52 is still not worth it. Eventually I may do 52's. But right now Im not. Maybe I've still got too much piss and vinegar, who knows.
 
#28 ·
as you said, try reading. no you don't have to make new mounts to run 52's, nor do you really have to re-locate the shackle mounts. since you were already on the DIY4X website, did you not see the BOLT IN B-52 KIT? what was said is you don't need to spend tens of thousands of dollars to build a very trailworthy rig. sometimes the cheapest stuff still works the best. you get quite offended when we here, who think 'outside the wallet' arent afraid to run what works, no matter how cheap it is. but if it get's your temper all a flaring that it was suggested multiple times that a very very capable suspension can be had for under $250 shocks and all, then go ahead. i'll be out there next to you on the trail. actually, with that 10 bolt i'll probably be towing you back out to the main road.



btw, your the guy that asked for opinions. when we said what you didn't want to hear you got all in a huff. i guess opinions are like assholes, everyone's got one. :flipoff2:
 
#29 ·
My opinions on 52s not for everyone. I wheel alot and I go through a set of fronts about every 2 years or so.

It annoys me enough that I want to link the front, not for more flex but for more control.

If you move that upper shackle hanger ( nice to have a welder but not required) you will get a better shackle angle and the bolt on springs flex pretty good.

course I am a cheap bastard and would probably do 52s again, acutally I have 56s up front but its basically the same
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top