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4l60 rebuild

3K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  BurnBlue 
#1 ·
Anyone have any experience with the monster in a box rebuild kit for this tranny? With the right tools and a thorough manual could the average mechanic tackle one of these or am I nuts to even consider it? I have one in my Tahoe and its starting to slip more and more frequently.
 
#2 ·
I used monster for my 400 build, and if i am correct, they are basically the same trans. Great customer service. If you have any kind of mechanical skills you can build a tranny. Keep it clean and take your time. Make sure you have the correct clearences and you should be fine.
 
#4 ·
Uh, correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's the 700R4 and the 4L60E's which are identical and the Turbo 400's are similar to 4l80E's. However, I'm almost positive on this.

I do agree however on the Monster Rebuild kit, and with some basic understanding of Auto Transmissions, you should be able to tackle it.

Again, correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#5 ·
That is correct the 4L80E is the electronic/overdrive version of the turbo 400. They use some of the same clutches.

4L60E needs a good external cooler.

They are also notorious for breaking the reverse shell, so they loose reverse, but still shift fine.

Also GM had some issues with the torque converter that will cause some electronic issues, and the thing will shift so hard you think it's about to come through the floor. GM designed the thing to slip so it shifts into O.D. smoother, but over time it causes trouble. There is a fix for this problem.

I worked at a transmission shop for a few years selling parts. These are the most common problems with this transmission. Also they made a ton, so by shear numbers they seem to tear up more, but they made a bunch that never broke.
 
#6 ·
Nuts to consider building your own transmission to avoid dealer/repair shop costs? Nope

Nuts to consider a 4L60E that is "slipping" for an attempt at your first tranny build...probably

If you are considering tearing into your trans maybe give some more info on what gear is flaring or slipping, harsh engagement? Slow reverse, 1st engagement? Do this and I will tell you where to start looking for the problem that is causing the concern first.
 
#7 ·
It slips from a dead stop in first gear. Stop at a light and when you try to accelerate away it hesitates before it engages and begins to move. The engagement is not abrupt but you can definitely feel the slip. Thanks for the reply and any information you may have.
 
#8 ·
sorry for the thread hack

I'm having tranny problems with my 4L60E in my ZR2. Thought about just buying there HD 4x4 tranny and a 1800-2000 stall converter. I don't have the time or facilities to overhaul one. Plus I have had bad experiences in the past with my old 4 cylinder s10 by getting ripped off by a tranny shop.

I'm eventually going to do a 5.3 swap and SOA D60 rear and linked D44HP on 35s. So my question is: IS MONSTER TRANSMISSION RELIABLE ENOUGH TO HANDLE MY CURRENT AND FUTURE NEEDS? I have read some bad things about them and some good. Its going to cost around $2k to do this so I want to know if the company is good for it.

I know there is a no bullshit policy here on Pirate so thought I'd ask

Thanks,
MT
 
#11 ·
Yeah thanks just read it. However it was 2 NEIGHS and one Yea
again like I keep coming across on the WEB. I'll probably keep it local.

I read on here that the 4l60e is as tough as a th400, and infinitely more tunable...

maybe someone just needs to tune your trans? :flipoff2:
Hey maybe your right. I also saw that those EBay electric supercharger can give me a 50% increase in HP and TQ.......LOL.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the reply. I dont meet any of the idiot college kid criteria. This is in our family Tahoe that has 140000 miles on it. Sounds like the way to go at this point is check the line pressure and go from there. This trans has never been abused. Just normal pavement pounder driving.
 
#15 ·
These transmission internals repair on a scale of 1-10 in difficulty are like a 3 maybe...if you take your time and know what to look for before actually removing a bolt you can fix it. Don't go overboard trying to figure out how everything works. Just replace the faulty parts that effect the drivability of the unit and move on.

Tech for this trans would be nice on here ie. pics and such and line pressure readings on the gauge when you check it and such. You never know if the problem your having may help someone else. If you have to tear into the internals take pics and post them. Buy your red star to post pics straight from you computer or post them from photobucket.
 
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