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#1 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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79 k30 build front 3 link rear 63" leafs
So im bored tonight and just ran out of mig wire so ill start a build thread. i currently have a 79 k30 crew cab 2wd.
This all started 3 1/2 years ago with a 76 k10. I was starting a project in chassis fab when i was going to school at wyotech. Original plan was to build a 4 link front suspension with a dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear. About 4-5" lift and Bronco/F150 coil springs in front and wasn't for sure on rear suspension. in school i completed the 4 link front except for the track bar and shocks. Got it home and started work slowly on it and ran out of ideas. the way i designed the links and brackets i had no room for anything and the whole setup took up too much room and hung down. i then did a bunch of research and decided on a 3 link front suspension. had a bunch of fun cutting and grinding all my welds off and finally had a good chunk of my front suspension done last spring. had it sitting on wheels and also completed a rear 63" swap and custom shackle flip. Well i did some work for a buddy who in turn got me a drw chevy dana 60 front axle for free (he paid 400 for it). SCORE!. But, what i had finished on the k10 was most the axle bracketry. so another buddy had bought 2 crew cab 2wd dually chevy's one for the truck and another for the motor. I got the lesser of the 2 for the cab and frame for free and also a sm465 np205 combo for a 24 pack of mountain dew. Score 2. i had made my decision. if im gunna wheel im putting bucket seats in it, me plus one passenger doesn't make for much fun. so i figured have the crew haul more people (family down the road) and have the k30 frame so its stronger. So the past 3 months ive been slowly working on the crew cab. Build plans are 3 link front with dana 60. im probably gunna do the jana 76 in the front since i need gears and a locker for the front and just upgrade shafts and rest down the road. On my 76 i used 5 1/2" bronco coil springs from wild horse and calculated out vs installed was 2" shorter than i expected. i found out early bronco coil springs are same diameter and tops and bottoms are the same but are 2" shorter than the 78ish f150 bronco coil springs i wanted. So im using a set of deaver 6" lift superflex coil springs for a 78ish f150. Im going to use 32" links and a track bar. Rear suspension is about the same as my 76 but im using 5" shackles instead of the 7" ones i was gunna use on that. Axles im using chevy dana 60 front and im upgrading to a jana 76 kit and probably stock shafts for now untill i start braking things. i figure i need to buy gears and a locker so might as well do the 76 kit instead of 60 stuff. Rear axle is a van width 14 bolt. still undecided if i wanna match the front drw 60 or put srw hubs on. Other stuff are crossover steering, surplus warehouse steering ram for hydro assist, Johnny joints, rear traction bar, rear disc brakes, hydroboost, and a 400 hp 350 sbc with (hopefully) a dual tbi system (still have to figure out how but its been done). I also have to decide if i wanna run a nv4500 or the sm465 i have. Tires were going to be 37" retreads from Treadwright but i figured if i got 60 now and 14 bolt im probably gunna run some 40x16 16" super swamper ltb's cuz their decently cheep yet. I also shortened the frame 12" and am going to run a tubular flat bed and good roll cage. Im gunna run about 5" lift to keep it low. Around where i live is flat. No off road park for 3 hours and it ain't even much so probably mud around here. I wanna make it to moab some day and want this to be a very capable trail truck. not just for rocks or just mud but a very versitile truck. Last edited by 79k30; 10-08-2012 at 06:08 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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Pictures
76 k10 before the abortion. First pictures are sittin on suspension with 35's and the next are with some bald 38.5's i got for rims. Then a couple of the suspension 3 link i had about half done. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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So i got the 79 and tore the bed off right away. This body deffinately has some bad rust the whole drivers floor is gone and cab support is about gone also. This was a local rancher's rodeo truck so who knows how many miles are on it and the body shows it. The front fenders have been replaced and been repainted once but had a bad bondo and sheet metal repairs done. So i cut the rear dana 70 out and cut 12" out of the frame right behind the cab. I started partin out my 76 and made new spring hangers and swapped in my 63" leaf springs. Ordered new spring perches and universal bushings and new disc brake brackets and swapped in my van 14 bolt ff. About finished with the rear suspension except for shocks.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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course not! cmon i aint even close to bein finished. read the first post. the 76 orange k10 got tore back down before i finished. i just put up those pics to show what i had. And yes i plan on removing all stock crossmembers and building new heavier ones. Im also gunna brace front and back of the front spring hanger too.
Last edited by 79k30; 03-13-2012 at 06:31 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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I plan on mounting the lower links between the center chunk and knuckle on the right side and same on the left axle tube. The outside of the bracket will be about 1" from the weld for the inner c. Run the rear lower link mounts on the bottom of the frame. Im gunna build a truss over the top of the dana 60 out of half inch flat iron. Should i tie it into the cover or something like blue torch fab uses with their covers? Im gunna mount my upper link off the top of the truss just to the right of the engine oil pan (should be about in line with the driveshaft). Im gunna put the rear upper link mount on the inside right framerail as high as i can.
Im debating if i should just keep my shocks i have now or do sum upgrading. i dont want to speend tons of money like on fox or kings or nothin but ive been looking at the bilstien 5150's. Whats your thoughts? |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142394
Location: Do or die bed stuy brooklyn
Posts: 2,412
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Glad to see you running coils..I gave up after a few weekends of trying to squeeze them in and have some form of adjustability..
Id burn the truss into the top of the chunk..Be carefull there though..Its thinner than you would think and will melt away easy when its preheated too much.
__________________
Unfortunately there is no end to human stupidity -- making things foolproof only creates more ingenious fools |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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ok so new pictures yet but im workin on front suspension setup. i wanna push the front axle forward about 2-3 inches. what are you guys doin with the steering box??
also what would yall say about me boxin the front half of the frame till say a foot or so after the trans crossmember? im gunna full cage the cab probably 6 point and gunna run kickers outa the back of the cab to the rear of my flatbed. and what will be pros/cons of runnin the dually hubs on the front axle with say 16x10 rims with 4 1/2" backspacing vs sumthin like 16x10 rims and 3" backspacing on single hubs? and if i keep the dwr hubs on front getting 4" spacers for the rear to match track width. i can get a set of 4 2" spacers for about 200 bucks vs at least 400 into new hubs on the front. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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Quote:
im keeping the 63's rear because i got enough money in the front suspension and the mad flex from these is hard to beat for the cost. the only reason that i could thing to link the rear which would be for the clearance for springs you would gain (63's are just so long). |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 122805
Location: Big Sky Country
Posts: 357
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Run the shocks you have for now, get it out wheeling and later on get differant shocks. having your wheeler out on a trail is better than some fancy shocks IMO. Now lets see the front getting linked.
__________________
Wheeler: 87 K5, 454TBI , 465, 208, d60, 14bff, a few cuts on the body, rolling on 39.5'sTowrig/DD: 05 Dodge 2500 Cummins, with a few mods/forum/chevy/769919-foolsized-blazer-build.html |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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well its been awhile since i posted here but progress has been slow and steady and im starting to get somewhere on the front. last week i was starting to freak out on the front suspension design getting a little overwhelmed but i think ive got it figured out now. i dont have pictures tonite. hopefully this weekend ill get some posted up i forgot my camera on my toolbox at work (25 miles away).
i got my engine crossmember in and just about fully welded up. got my left side lower link and coil bucket made up and tacked in. i pushed my front axle forward some and got my drop pitman arm and drag link bolted up and the left side is about 1 1/2" forward of the right. im going to play around with it some more but i put the engine crossmember in the stock location in line with the motor mounts and tucked it up to the oil pan within a half inch and my truss i made for the axle is just infront of it to maximise suspension up travel. the box looks like a pita to move forward so i dunno. i also have to figure out how im going to get the steering shaft around the right upper coil mount. like i said i got the axle truss in and am working on the 2 left links right now. going to be cutting some more brackets when i get back out there and hopefully start working on the right link and lower coil bucket next week and swing the axle through articulation to see how it all looks. i wish coilover shocks weren't so expensive and hard to set up! ![]() need some oppinions. im having a hard time deciding on transmissions. i have a nv4500 and 2 sm465's a 10 spline output and 32 spline output. i have another chevy 84 k10 thats kind of my cheep beater/wheeler/backup dd that i have 52's and a shackle flip on and is more road worthy that this k30 will be. i wouldn't mind the overdrive in the k10 but the smooth shifting of the 4500 would be nice off road in the k30. but the k30 won't be driven near as much on the road so im thinkin sm465 with the 32 spline shaft and a doubler in the k30 n do the nv4500 swap in my k10. what do yall think? anyways ill hopefully get some pics up this weekend and look forward to seein progress pictures! |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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Ok so its been awhile but ive made some progress...ill just need to find my camera again for pictures. I ended up pushing the front axle about 3-4" forward and am looking to move my steering box forward as well. I am also considering using a 88-98 ifs box on the inside of the frame to get the drag link shorter so my track bar isnt so long and dont have to mount it 4" outside of the frame and be weaker. I will have to box the frame n make it good and stong.
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#22 (permalink) |
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party wagon
Join Date: Nov 2011
Member # 202878
Location: jojah
Posts: 2,225
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its just me but i'd want my draglink and panhard bar as long as possible.
that way it keeps the swing of the axle to a minimum.. just my .02 if your worried about strength, then use 1.5 x .375 wall dom and tap the ends for a 7/8 heim. thats what offroad design sells in their coilover kit.
__________________
jeep is getting a new home! NEW PROJECT ON THE HORIZON!!! E-350 12 valve cummins, 2006 F350 axles, 6" lift and 37's ... |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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Yeah i hear ya there but if i want the track bar as long as the drag link (preferred) its gunna stick about 8" past the drivers frame rail. Ive got some 1 1/4"x.250 dom for my drag n track bars. Im prolly gunna run the 7/8 heims or baby johnny joints for track bars. Im just worried sucha long brackets gunna be weaker
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#24 (permalink) |
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Certified Technician
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206546
Location: Frederick SD
Posts: 67
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Ok so i finally got you guys some pictures. i appologise for the absence of pictures and updates lately as ive been busy with the g/f and the other toy (2006 raptor 700).
I made progress with the passenger side upper and lower links. i also have the passenger side lower coil bucket tacked in place and spring locator welded up. put a leveling kit in a 07 f350 at work and kept the stock coil spring rubbers and they fit my springs good. i also have an idea where im going to mount my track bar and am toying with lengths and mount ideas yet. also today just picked up my new drag link and tie rod end adaptors from my machinist instructor from vocational school. he cut the 7/8 18 threads as i guess its a special thread for chevy tie rod ends and there isn't much choises out there for weld in bungs so i made some for my 1 3/4" .250 wall dom and had him thread my 1 1/4 .250 dom drag link. ill put up picks of them later. i have to get a reamer from another buddy to enlarge the holes for the larger drag link tie rod end tapers and figure which end will be up or down and all. |
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