crew cab lift info - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Chevy
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Member # 190449
Posts: 20
Exclamation crew cab lift info

looking to get a lift kit but i don't know how high i want to go. still have to keep it street able (keep in mind it is a tow rig i tow my mud truck every weekend)
would like to fit 35s also
it is a 1991 v3500

Last edited by 84jp; 04-11-2012 at 02:08 PM.
84jp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Member # 211939
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 157
Well, you could go with 4 inch lift springs up front, and a rear shackle flip. That would clear 35's with some mild trimming.


These guys have a solution

http://offroaddesign.com/
Killroy1942 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 04-11-2012, 04:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
mega hack!!
 
sjracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 139150
Location: Coloma, California
Posts: 2,116
i would go 4" lift, springs front/blocks rear since its a tow rig this will work fine. by keeping the lift lower you are still nice and stable while towing. you will still need a new front driveshaft -longer and for a higher angle, and your rear driveshaft will need to be lengthened.

you will need to relocate the front sway bar mount, and get a drop pitman arm or a raised knuckle steering arm to fix the steering geometry. not doing this will give you a shitton of bump-steer.

i would not go a rear shackle flip if its a tow rig, you can carry more weight with the shackles in thier current configuration.

also plan on longer brake lines.

Offroad Design does have everything you will need
__________________
74 chev tbi 350 sm465/203/205 d60 ARB/14b detroit 56's/64's on 40's!
"I pledge allegiance to the Flag of the United States of America, and to the republic for which it stands; one Nation indivisible with liberty and justice for all."
sjracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
jasongjco1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120673
Location: Junk Town Colorado
Posts: 105
Heres how I lifted my front 3 inches with blocks in the rear. Pretty cheap and should ride better than lift springs.

jasongjco1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 06:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1792
Location: Parachute,CO
Posts: 2,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjracer View Post
i would go 4" lift, springs front/blocks rear since its a tow rig this will work fine. by keeping the lift lower you are still nice and stable while towing. you will still need a new front driveshaft -longer and for a higher angle, and your rear driveshaft will need to be lengthened.

you will need to relocate the front sway bar mount, and get a drop pitman arm or a raised knuckle steering arm to fix the steering geometry. not doing this will give you a shitton of bump-steer.

i would not go a rear shackle flip if its a tow rig, you can carry more weight with the shackles in thier current configuration.

also plan on longer brake lines.

Offroad Design does have everything you will need
This except you do not need to mess with your driveshafts.They will fit fine.Just order a complete kit.This should include brakeline drop brackets,shocks,leaves,steering arm blocks and rear U-bolts.Call ORD for thier sway bar quick disconnect then leave it on.
__________________
CJJuggy.FI406/465/205/D60/14bolt FF on 39.5 Swampers.Kids 70Jeepster fullwidth on 34/9.50 swampers.
Cheepin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 06:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
sick_sahara_yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38380
Location: montreal, mo
Posts: 571
Send a message via Yahoo to sick_sahara_yj
"i would not go a rear shackle flip if its a tow rig, you can carry more weight with the shackles in thier current configuration."

I do not agree with that statement at all. I built a 1997 chevy crew cab dually with 37 inch hummer tires and 6 inch front springs. the rears are a small lift with shackle reversal. It daily pulls a large bumper pull dump trailer and a small excavator. The combo is about 12-15k pounds depending on what he has in the bed. My customer claims it pulls better (has better characteristics) than the factory and even rides better.

I consistantly build tow rigs with 6-8 inches of lift (NO FREAKING BLOCKS) and 37 inch tires that pull dozers, backhoes, and more and they pull just fine. I do not recommend blocks in the back of any towrig. I recommend spending the money on good springs.

I also recommend you go to the tow rig section and search builds there and see what others are building.

My crew cab (73) has shackle reversal in the rear, 6 inch springs in the front, 37 inch tires and a cummins 12 valve with 5 speed. I have put this combo to work in many trucks and works well because the tires are inexspensive and have a heavy load range and good sidewalls.
__________________
If your not breaking stuff, then you arent trying hard enough.....smash the skinny pedal
sick_sahara_yj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 05:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38563
Location: Waterboro, ME
Posts: 2,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongjco1 View Post
Heres how I lifted my front 3 inches with blocks in the rear. Pretty cheap and should ride better than lift springs.

YIKES
__________________
95' 4Runner with 5VZ engine WTB...winch bumper
84' M1031 CUCV 37's, 8kW gen
Pietro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 05:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
mega hack!!
 
sjracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 139150
Location: Coloma, California
Posts: 2,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by sick_sahara_yj View Post
"i would not go a rear shackle flip if its a tow rig, you can carry more weight with the shackles in thier current configuration."

I do not agree with that statement at all. I built a 1997 chevy crew cab dually with 37 inch hummer tires and 6 inch front springs. the rears are a small lift with shackle reversal. It daily pulls a large bumper pull dump trailer and a small excavator. The combo is about 12-15k pounds depending on what he has in the bed. My customer claims it pulls better (has better characteristics) than the factory and even rides better.

I consistantly build tow rigs with 6-8 inches of lift (NO FREAKING BLOCKS) and 37 inch tires that pull dozers, backhoes, and more and they pull just fine. I do not recommend blocks in the back of any towrig. I recommend spending the money on good springs.

I also recommend you go to the tow rig section and search builds there and see what others are building.

My crew cab (73) has shackle reversal in the rear, 6 inch springs in the front, 37 inch tires and a cummins 12 valve with 5 speed. I have put this combo to work in many trucks and works well because the tires are inexspensive and have a heavy load range and good sidewalls.
i too hate blocks, but i was suggesting it as a cheaper route to replacement springs. but, there are thousands and thousands of trucks lifted with blocks out there. they too, tow much like your saying. one of my trucks had 4" blocks on it for more than a dozen years with no problems towing or wheeling. was it the best way to do it, no. but it did work flawlessly. i certainly would not put much more than a 3-4" lift block in the rear, and with a 6" lift like your saying i would definately not do that. rear springs are the right way to go.

question: when you are performing said shackle flips, are you leaving the rear diff rotated up? are you doing any kind of cv driveshaft, or other rear driveshaft mods? are your rear shackles one piece or two piece?

my reasoning is, your taking the rear driveshafts u-joints out of synch with each other when you rotate the diff up. maybe with the longer length of your setup (being a crewcab) it lessens the effect of the u-joints not being paralell anymore (and that cummins). my experience is with short/longbed trucks, not with 3+3's, so i will trust that you have more experience here.
__________________
74 chev tbi 350 sm465/203/205 d60 ARB/14b detroit 56's/64's on 40's!
"I pledge allegiance to the Flag of the United States of America, and to the republic for which it stands; one Nation indivisible with liberty and justice for all."
sjracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 07:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Member # 182477
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjracer View Post
...i would not go a rear shackle flip if its a tow rig, you can carry more weight with the shackles in thier current configuration...
I am contemplating some changes to my '91 V3500 and one of the changes is a shackle-flip. I keep hearing statements like this one and I wonder why? Why not a shackle-flip for a tow rig? Why can you carry more weight?

I am thinking that maybe it is collapsing a stock shackle which was designed for tension not compression. Or maybe if you aren't careful with the geometry you can invert a shackle.

I'm planning on a 4" shackle flip and I have modeled the geometry by carefully measuring on the truck and recreating it in CAD at work. I'm a mechanical engineer and work in the heavy truck world so maybe I am getting a little nerdy about it, but hey...I like to understand the geometry.

A couple of things that I don't like is that in order to get the 4" of lift you need to drop the rear spring eye double that amount (~8"). This gets the rear of the spring hanging below the bumper and body work. Also...if you don't relocate the hanger a little farther forward (which most aftermarket kits do), you get a little cozy with inverting a shackle when the axle drops. It is even more exaggerated with lift springs. My CAD geometry tells me that by doing the 4" shackle-flip you rotate the pinion up about 8.3 and with 4" of lift you move the axle ahead about 1" (6" of lift about 1.5" and 8" of lift about 2").

Anyways...all of this needs to be accommodated for in things like your driveline length. I recently got my drivelines re-tubed (front was shot, fwd rear section was bent, and rear rear section was too short) and I don't want to spend any more money on that!

Anyways...my point was...I don't understand the statement that you shouldn't shackle-flip a tow rig. If I am missing something please let me know.
__________________
Erik
1991 Chevy V3500, 1977 Chevy K20

Last edited by ehjorten; 04-12-2012 at 07:53 AM.
ehjorten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 08:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
sick_sahara_yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38380
Location: montreal, mo
Posts: 571
Send a message via Yahoo to sick_sahara_yj
I build lots of these trucks in my shop. With the last crew cab I completed, we did not have to modify the drive shafts angle, just the length. We upgraded to 1410s throughout the rear so that there was more strength.

I always redo the spring perches and reset the pinion angle. It is how I was taught and I have had wonderful results with it so I stick with it. When lifting a crew cab, replacing the carrier bearing is a must. I dont care who says what! If it is old, replace it because it will start causing vibrations.

On a tow rig, I would not skimp on the suspension. Afterall, you are using it and pulling weight behind it. If it were just a trailer queen trail rig, then skimp if you like, but I prefer to have the right parts in it the first time and not worry.

The guy I built it for says it handles tons better now towing than when it was stock.


this is his usual daily haul set up
__________________
If your not breaking stuff, then you arent trying hard enough.....smash the skinny pedal
sick_sahara_yj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 09:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38563
Location: Waterboro, ME
Posts: 2,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by sick_sahara_yj View Post
I build lots of these trucks in my shop. With the last crew cab I completed, we did not have to modify the drive shafts angle, just the length. We upgraded to 1410s throughout the rear so that there was more strength.

I always redo the spring perches and reset the pinion angle. It is how I was taught and I have had wonderful results with it so I stick with it. When lifting a crew cab, replacing the carrier bearing is a must. I dont care who says what! If it is old, replace it because it will start causing vibrations.

On a tow rig, I would not skimp on the suspension. Afterall, you are using it and pulling weight behind it. If it were just a trailer queen trail rig, then skimp if you like, but I prefer to have the right parts in it the first time and not worry.

The guy I built it for says it handles tons better now towing than when it was stock.


this is his usual daily haul set up
I just bought a set of those 37's for my M1031 CUCV on a set of older Ford rims. I put one on my balancer and required over 10 ounces on one side. Are you guys balancing these tires at all on DD machines or skipping it out of futility?
__________________
95' 4Runner with 5VZ engine WTB...winch bumper
84' M1031 CUCV 37's, 8kW gen
Pietro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 12:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
sick_sahara_yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38380
Location: montreal, mo
Posts: 571
Send a message via Yahoo to sick_sahara_yj
all mine get balanced. sometimes you get tires that are way off. when I get those, they get marked and put in a stack for offroad use only.
__________________
If your not breaking stuff, then you arent trying hard enough.....smash the skinny pedal
sick_sahara_yj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2012, 11:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Member # 192110
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Posts: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pietro View Post
I just bought a set of those 37's for my M1031 CUCV on a set of older Ford rims. I put one on my balancer and required over 10 ounces on one side. Are you guys balancing these tires at all on DD machines or skipping it out of futility?
Love this truck badass build.
__________________
1992 chevy 1500 350tbi, HPdana60 open, Sterling 10.5 truetrac. Fishin/winter truck
92solidaxlechevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2012, 11:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Member # 15257
Location: Santa Clara,CA
Posts: 959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pietro View Post
YIKES
x2
__________________
1984 CUCV K30

"it went bang" means "its fucked".

[url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=900026[/url] My Build Thread.
BurbanFreek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2012, 01:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38563
Location: Waterboro, ME
Posts: 2,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by sick_sahara_yj View Post
all mine get balanced. sometimes you get tires that are way off. when I get those, they get marked and put in a stack for offroad use only.
Not to be a pain in the ass...

Are you doing a dynamic balance with wheel weights or static using beads/BB/etc. ? If a dynamic, is it typical to use 5-10 ounces? I spun one up and it took half the rim diameter on just one side. I didn't even try the rest because I have more important things to do than lift heavy tires onto my old ass balancer. Just trying to figure out if I should even bother.
__________________
95' 4Runner with 5VZ engine WTB...winch bumper
84' M1031 CUCV 37's, 8kW gen
Pietro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.